SERVES 2 TO 3 AS A MAIN COURSE, 4 TO 5 AS PART OF A MULTICOURSE MEAL
Crab cakes in most any form are irresistible, and I find these especially so. Sweet from the fresh crabmeat and coconut milk, and spicy from the blending of ginger, coriander, and chili, they are truly memorable.
To make shaping easier, prepare the mixture in advance and chill it. The cakes themselves—looking like gold coins to the lyric Chinese eye—can also be shaped ahead. The last-minute pan-frying is quick and neat.
In season, we have our crabmeat flown in daily from Maine, where a family picks it while they sit around the dining room table watching TV. It is never salted, frozen, or vacuum-packed, and the taste is superb! Go out of your way to find a source for truly fresh, sweet crabmeat. Its flavor is unsurpassed.
1 large bunch fresh coriander, leaves and stems finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely minced fresh ginger
½ cup thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
2 tablespoons Chinese chili sauce
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅔ cup unsweetened coconut milk
½ cup fresh white bread crumbs
2 large eggs, beaten
1 pound fresh crabmeat, carefully picked over and drained of any liquid
Corn or peanut oil, for pan-frying
Serrano-Lemongrass Vinegar (page 19) or unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
Sprigs of watercress or coriander, for garnish
1. In a large bowl, combine the chopped coriander, ginger, scallions, chili sauce, salt, coconut milk, bread crumbs, and eggs. Add the crabmeat and toss well to combine. Seal airtight with plastic wrap pressed directly on the surface and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or preferably overnight.
2. To shape the crab cakes, ready a ⅓-cup measuring cup, a bowl of ice water, and a baking sheet lined with parchment or waxed paper. Dip the measuring cup in the water and shake off the excess. Pack the crab mixture into the cup, using your fingers or the back of a spoon dipped in the water to even the top of the mixture. Turn the crab cake onto the parchment and smooth with your fingers if it needs a bit more shaping. Repeat until all of the cakes are made. Loosely covered, the cakes may be refrigerated for 1 to 3 hours; if you hold them any longer, they may begin to “weep” (give off liquid).
3. About 20 minutes before serving, heat a large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add ⅛ inch oil and lower the heat to moderate. When the oil is hot enough to gently foam a dab of the crab mixture, add the crab cakes to the pan one by one, adjusting the heat so they sizzle without scorching. Fill the pan from the outside, working toward the center and leaving about 1 inch between the cakes. Cook the cakes until golden on both sides, then lower the heat to cook them through, 6 to 7 minutes total. Remove the cakes to a baking sheet lined with a triple layer of paper towels to drain. If making a second batch, wipe the pan clean with dry paper towels, add more oil, and repeat as above.
4. Serve the crab cakes immediately on heated plates of contrasting color, sprinkled with a dash of the vinegar and garnished with the sprigs of watercress or coriander.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: As an appetizer, we love these crab cakes topped with Minted Cucumber Sauce (page 23) and served with a salad of baby greens and a tumble of Turmeric Tomatoes (page 59). As an entrée, I would pair them with stir-fried or steamed rice garnished with pine nuts or a sauté of seasonal greens, including something with a pleasantly bitter edge like Chinese broccoli.