MAKES 10 TO 12 SMALL SAUSAGES, A SIMILAR NUMBER OF SMALL PATTIES, OR ABOUT 2 DOZEN TINY MEATBALLS, ENOUGH TO SERVE 4 TO 6 AS PART OF AN ANTIPASTO
Sausage mixtures like this very tasty lamb version are exceedingly simple to make. Stuffing them takes a bit of skill, but it is really a wonderful thing to try if you have never done it and are feeling gutsy. Otherwise, the mixture can be shaped into small patties or tiny meatballs and pan-fried.
The mixture gains nicely in flavor if prepared in advance. Sausages are best left to cure overnight before cooking, but patties may be fried up at once.
3 to 4 yards sheep casings, for filling sausages
1½ teaspoons finely minced fresh ginger
1½ teaspoons finely minced garlic
2 tablespoons finely chopped coriander leaves and stems
2 tablespoons finely chopped Chinese chives
2 tablespoons thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
½ teaspoon kosher salt
⅛ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
¼ teaspoon Szechwan peppercorn powder
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 teaspoon Chinese chili sauce
1 pound coarsely ground lamb
1 tablespoon corn or peanut oil for sausages, or 2 to 4 tablespoons for patties or meatballs
Diagonally sliced green and white scallion rings, for garnish
Tiny red bell pepper dice, for garnish
I vastly prefer the slender, thin sheep casings to hog casings. Go out of your way to find them; call a specialty meat distributor if your butcher looks at you cross-eyed.
To make sausage links:
1. Soak the casings in cool water for 30 to 60 minutes. Rinse by slipping the end over the faucet and running cool water through the casings. Cut into manageable 2- or 3-foot lengths. Cut off and discard any portions with holes.
2. Combine all of the ingredients through the chili sauce in a large bowl. Add the lamb and stir in one direction until well blended. For easier stuffing and to develop the flavors, chill the mixture, preferably overnight.
3. To stuff the sausages, attach the stuffing horn to a meat grinder. Slip all but 2 to 3 inches of the casing over the horn. Make a knot at the end. Feed the mixture into the casings, pausing occasionally to mold the sausages; underfill the casings to prevent bursting. Knot the end, then knot, tie, or reverse-twist into 4-inch links. Repeat until all of the sausage mixture is used. Ripen the links, uncovered, in the refrigerator overnight. Suspend them from the racks for a bit of drama, or spread them in a single layer on a baking sheet.
4. Prick the sausages at several points along each link. Poach gently in a large shallow pan filled with simmering water for 5 minutes. Drain, then cool in a single layer on a baking sheet. (If you are working in advance, the sausages can be refrigerated at this point for 1 to 2 days.) Let the sausages come to room temperature before searing. Separate them into individual links.
5. Shortly before serving, heat a wok or large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 1½ teaspoons of the oil, swirl to glaze the pan, and heat until nearly smoking. Reduce the heat to moderate. Add half of the sausages and sear, turning, until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Remove the sausages to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Repeat with the remaining sausages, cleaning the pan, if necessary, and drizzling in more oil.
6. Serve immediately. Cut the sausages diagonally into thick slices, and garnish with the scallion and bell dice.
To make this potent ingredient at home, simply stir a tablespoon or so of Szechwan peppercorns in a dry skillet over moderate heat, until they are fragrant and smoking, about 5 minutes; do not let them scorch. Pulverize the peppercorns to a powder with a mortar and pestle or in a spice grinder, then pass the mixture through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the husks.
Any leftovers can be kept and used judiciously in future dishes, though our habit is to make only as much as we need at any one time.
To make patties or meatballs:
1. Combine all the ingredients following step 2 of the instructions for sausage links. Shape small oval patties, using ¼ to ⅓ cup of the lamb mixture for each one. Or, shape into tiny meatballs 1 inch in diameter.
2. To cook, heat a large heavy skillet over high heat until hot enough to evaporate a bead of water on contact. Add 1 tablespoon oil and swirl to glaze the pan. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a bit of meat, add the patties or meatballs. Leave room in between each and work from the outside of the pan to the center (where it is hottest).
3. Cook on each side until nicely browned, adjusting the heat so the meat sizzles merrily without scorching and drizzling a bit more oil down the side of the pan, if needed to prevent sticking. Do not overcook. Patties will take 3 to 4 minutes to cook, meatballs a touch longer. Remove to paper towels to drain. Wipe the pan, reheat, and re-oil between batches.
4. Serve the patties or meatballs promptly. Garnish with the scallion rings and bell pepper confetti.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: The sausage goes beautifully with either of our mustard sauces (page 21). As part of an antipasto plate, we like it with either Pan-Fried Scallion-Chive Breads (page 382), Wok-Seared New Potatoes (page 424), or one of our citrus-inclined cold noodle dishes. Ginger-Pickled Red Cabbage Slaw (page 61) would complete the plate prettily.
