SERVES 3 TO 4 AS A MAIN COURSE, 5 TO 6 AS PART OF A MULTICOURSE MEAL
This is a terrific tumble of spicy pork, fat noodles, smoky tree ears, and flavorful winter chard, all laced with a sauce that is pungent and tangy. It is a real cold weather tummy-warmer, perfect for those days when you need to feel well fed.
In the restaurant, we use a thick style of egg noodle that is turned out by a local noodle factory and has an appealing, stubby toothiness. I know of nothing else like it (except for the northern Chinese homemade noodles, on which they were undoubtedly modeled) but any good pasta will do, including dry shells, rigatoni or fusilli.
The marinating, chopping, and noodle blanching can all be done ahead, leaving only 5 to 10 minutes of last-minute cooking.
While on the hunt for fresh pork in San Francisco Chinatown, I was attracted to a huge truck that pulled up in front of one butcher store every morning. Out would climb a beefy (pardon the expression) man, who would then haul a succession of whole pigs, on his shoulder, into the shop. It was clear that the meat was fresh from the slaughterhouse, and that the driver’s mission made him happy. What wasn’t clear was how so many pigs fit into such a little shop.
It turned out that behind the shop was a scene from Dante’s “Inferno.” While some of the pigs were cut up and sold out front to customers like me, an even larger number were hung whole by the butt in a trio of vertical ovens out back and were roasted slowly over many hours to a crispy, deep gold. The fat dripped in pools beneath the ovens while the fires in their bellies blazed. Orchestrating the scene and turning the pigs with great concentration was a pair of intensely thin young Chinese men, garbed merely in loin cloths and rubber sandals. With Cantonese opera seeping from a radio, it was truly a scene out of a movie.
1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon mushroom soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 tablespoon packed brown sugar
1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
2½ teaspoons China Moon Hot Chili Oil (page 10)
2½ teaspoons “goop” from China Moon Hot Chili Oil
¾ pound boneless pork loin, cut against the grain into 2-inch ribbons ⅛ inch thick
AROMATICS:
1 tablespoon finely minced fresh ginger
1 tablespoon finely minced garlic
¼ cup thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
2 teaspoons Chinese black beans, coarsely chopped (do not rinse them)
¾ to 1 teaspoon dried red chili flakes
SAUCE:
1½ cups China Moon Infusion (page 72), China Moon Double Stock (page 72), or unsalted chicken stock
2 tablespoons mushroom soy sauce
1 tablespoon Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
1 tablespoon sugar
¾ teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon Chinese chili sauce
2 tablespoons dried tree ears
1 carrot, cut diagonally into rippled or plain coins, ⅛ inch thick
½ pound fat Shanghai noodles or other appealing pasta
1½ teaspoons China Moon Hot Chili Oil
2 to 3 cups corn or peanut oil, for velveting and stir-frying
1 small red onion, cut into ¾-inch squares
1 small red bell pepper, cut into ¾-inch squares
3 ounces mushrooms, halved or quartered if large
¼ pound red chard, cut crosswise into wide ribbons
1 tablespoon cornstarch dissolved in 2 tablespoons cold stock or water
Diagonally sliced green and white scallion rings, for garnish
I refrigerate raw pork as soon as I buy it, but I never freeze pork. Although the fattier cuts of pork lose less in freezing than, say, leaner cuts of beef or poultry, the loss of any flavor or texture still dissuades me.
In my kitchen, ground pork goes immediately into the refrigerator in a stainless steel perforated pan set into a deeper drip pan. If you don’t own such a nesting pan set (these are common in restaurant supply shops, where they go by the name of “perforated hotel pans”), then simply improvise by putting the pork in a colander set on top of a plate. Even very fresh pork will drip blood in the course of a day in the refrigerator, and the portion of the meat left sitting in the blood would otherwise begin to decay. To seal the color and further protect its freshness, press a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the meat.
I also refrigerate whole pieces of raw pork, including spareribs, in a drainer pan. If your refrigerator isn’t big enough to allow the larger cuts of meat to drip in this fashion, you can accomplish the same job by wrapping the meat in a dry tea towel and then bagging it in plastic. The cloth will absorb any excess blood and will keep the meat tasting and smelling fresh. Be sure that the cloth is clean and not perfumed.
Truly fresh pork will keep nicely for 1 to 2 days in this manner, assuming your refrigerator is very cold. For best flavor, however, one is always advised to marinate or cook raw pork as soon after purchase as possible.
1. In a bowl big enough to hold the pork, blend together all of the marinade ingredients through the “goop” until smooth. Add the pork and toss well. Seal and marinate for 3 to 4 hours at cool room temperature or refrigerate overnight. Let come to room temperature before cooking; toss to separate the ribbons.
2. Combine the aromatics in a small bowl and cover until ready to use.
3. Combine all of the sauce ingredients in a small bowl. Stir to blend, leaving the spoon in the bowl.
4. Cover the tree ears with 3 cups cold water. Soak until supple, 20 to 30 minutes. Drain and swish in several changes of cold water to dislodge any grit. Pinch off any tough or gelatinous bits. Tear, if necessary, into quarter-size pieces. Cover with cold water until ready to use; drain before cooking.
5. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Blanch the carrots until half-cooked, 30 seconds. Scoop from the water and plunge into ice water to chill. Drain. Leave the blanching water on the stove.
6. Fluff the noodles in a colander to separate and untangle the strands. Bring the blanching water to a rolling boil over high heat. Add the noodles, swish with chopsticks, and cook until al dente. Plunge into ice water to chill; drain well. Toss the noodles with the chili oil. Set aside. All the above, including the vegetable cutting, can be done a full day ahead. Seal and refrigerate the ingredients; bring to room temperature before cooking.
7. About 20 minutes before serving, velvet the pork following step 5 on page 295.
8. Return the wok or skillet to high heat until hot enough to sizzle a scallion ring. Reduce the heat to moderate and add the aromatics. Stir gently until fully fragrant, 20 to 30 seconds, adjusting the heat so they foam without browning. If the aromatics are sticking, drizzle a bit more oil down the side of the pan. Add the onion and bell pepper, and toss briskly until somewhat softened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the carrots and toss for 1 minute. Add the fresh mushrooms and toss until hot, about 2 minutes more. Adjust the heat to maintain a merry sizzle and drizzle a bit more oil down the side of the pan, if needed to prevent sticking. Don’t worry if the vegetables brown a little; they will be tasty.
9. Add the drained tree ears and the noodles, and toss for 1 minute. Add the chard and toss until it wilts. Stir the sauce and add it to the pan. Raise the heat to high, cover the pan, and bring the sauce to a simmer. When the sauce simmers, stir the cornstarch mixture to recombine and add it to the pan. Stir until the liquid turns glossy and slightly thick, 15 to 20 seconds. Add the pork and toss to heat through, about 10 seconds.
10. Serve immediately on heated plates or a platter of contrasting color. Garnish generously with the scallion rings.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: This is a fine one-dish dinner, and there is nothing I can think of to follow except a generous second portion!