MAKES ABOUT 36 WON-TONS
Corn and crab are frequent partners in Chinese cooking, hence their easy pairing in this otherwise untraditional won-ton. Studded with bright yellow corn kernels, they are as appealing texture-wise as they are to the taste buds.
Purer palates might like to poach these won-ton or stir them in soup (see directions on page 95). However, my staff and customers inhale them deep-fried, so there’s no arguing with success.
If the gelatinous fish paste found in many Chinatown fish markets is not easily or freshly gotten, you can experiment with many seafoods. I’ve used fresh salmon, crab, and scallops with success, always adding some fresh shrimp to give the paste its “glue.” Blend the mixture to a purée in a food processor.
FILLING AND WRAPPERS:
2 teaspoons finely minced fresh ginger
1 teaspoon finely minced garlic
1 green serrano chili, finely minced
3 tablespoons coarsely chopped coriander leaves and stems
¼ cup thinly sliced green and white scallion rings
½ cup fresh corn kernels
1 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons Chinese rice wine or dry sherry
2 teaspoons unseasoned Japanese rice vinegar
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
Several twists of pepper
1 pound fresh crabmeat
½ pound fish paste
About 36 thinnest possible, 3-inch-square won-ton skins
2 egg yolks, beaten (optional)
3 Anaheim chilis, seeded, deribbed, and coarsely chopped
2 yellow wax chilis, seeded, deribbed, and coarsely chopped
1 large clove garlic, peeled
¾ cup juice from China Moon Pickled Ginger (page 8)
2 tablespoons distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons corn or peanut oil
1½ cups coarsely chopped coriander leaves and stems
3 to 4 cups corn or peanut oil, for deep-frying
Paper-thin rings of Fresno chili or diced red bell pepper, to garnish the sauce
Coriander sprigs, to garnish the won-ton
1. To make the filling, combine all of the ingredients through the crabmeat in a large mixing bowl. Add the fish paste and stir briskly in one direction until thoroughly blended. Poach a dab of the filling in simmering water until cooked. Taste, then adjust the filling with a dash more of this or that if your tongue desires. If you are working in advance, press a piece of plastic wrap directly on top of the filling and refrigerate for several hours or overnight.
2. Shape the won-ton following the directions in step 2 on page 95. If you are refrigerating the won-ton before frying, fry them directly from the refrigerator to prevent the wrappers from becoming soggy. If you are freezing the won-ton, fry them only partially defrosted for the same reason.
3. To make the sauce, combine the chilis, garlic, pickled ginger juice, and vinegar in a food processor. Blend until fine, scraping down the bowl once or twice. With the machine running, add the oil in a thin stream. Add the coriander and process until finely minced. If you are working in advance, wait until the last minute to buzz in the coriander.
4. About 20 minutes before serving, preheat the oven to 250°F and move a rack to the lower third.
5. To fry the won-ton, follow step 5, page 359.
6. Serve the won-ton immediately, on a platter of contrasting color, nestled around a dip dish or two of the sauce. Garnish the sauce with the chili rings or bell pepper dice; garnish the won-ton with a few sprigs of coriander.
Fresh corn, like freshly shelled peas and summer tomatoes, does for me what a slab of chocolate cake does for most folks. Growing up in a New Jersey suburb built on farm and nursery land, my palate was spoiled at an early age for these naturally and intensely sweet foods. We recently tried frozen corn in testing these recipes and the results were ho-hum blah. If you adore frozen corn, certainly use it. But if you want those won-ton to knock your socks off, then save the recipe for summer and gild it with an ear of freshly picked corn.
MENU SUGGESTIONS: For a summertime supper, I’d partner the won-ton with a platter of thickly sliced garden tomatoes in a fresh basil vinaigrette. Or, a side dish of Cold-Tossed Corn Relish (page 441) and a bowl of fresh vegetable soup would be equally fine.