FRIDAY, NOVEMBER 1

HOW TO SURVIVE A TWO-WAVE HOLD-DOWN

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1 Bail your board.

2 Avoid surfacing in the white water after a wave crashes.

3 Do not struggle—you will become exhausted.

4 Dive as deep as you can.

5 Let the first wave pass over you.

6 Follow the board’s leash to the surface.

7 Wait out the waves by diving underneath them.

Curl your body into a defensive ball as the waves pass overhead.

8 Paddle to calmer water.