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Superstition Mountains | Peralta Trail | Boyce Thompson Arboretum | Globe | Tonto National Monument | Theodore Roosevelt Lake Reservoir and Dam | Tortilla Flat
President Theodore Roosevelt called this 150-mile drive “the most awe-inspiring and most sublimely beautiful panorama nature ever created.” A stretch of winding highway, the AZ 188 portion of the Apache Trail closely follows the route forged through wilderness in 1906 to move construction supplies for building the Roosevelt Dam, which lies at the northernmost part of the loop.
Planning Your Time
Although the drive itself can easily be completed in less than a day, you could spend a night in Globe, continuing the loop back to Phoenix the following day.
Getting Here and Around
From the town of Apache Junction you can choose to drive the trail in either direction; there are advantages to both. If you begin the loop going clockwise—heading eastward on AZ 188 to the Superstition Mountains, the Peralta Trail, Boyce Thompson Arboretum, Globe, Tonto National Monument, Theodore Roosevelt Lake Reservoir & Dam, and Tortilla Flat—your drive may be more relaxing; you’ll be on the farthest side of this narrow dirt road some refer to as the “white-knuckle route,” with its switchbacks and drop-offs straight down into spectacular Fish Creek Canyon. TIP This 42-mile section of the drive isn’t for anyone afraid of heights. But if you follow the route counterclockwise—continuing on U.S. 60 past the town of Apache Junction—you’ll be able to appreciate each attraction better.
Superstition Mountains
30 miles east of Downtown Phoenix.
Folklore abounds in the Superstition Mountains, where visitors have sought treasure from the Lost Dutchman Mine for generations.
Getting Here and Around
From Phoenix, take Interstate 10 and then U.S. 60 (the Superstition Freeway) east through the suburbs of Tempe, Mesa, and Apache Junction.
Exploring
Superstition Mountains.
As the Phoenix metro area gives way to cactus- and creosote-dotted desert, the massive escarpment of the Superstition Mountains heaves into view and slides by to the north. The Superstitions are supposedly where the legendary Lost Dutchman Mine is, the location—not to mention the existence—of which has been hotly debated since pioneer days. | 5470 N. Apache Trail | Apache Junction | www.azstateparks.com/parks/lodu | $7 per vehicle.
Superstition Mountain Museum.
The best place to learn about the “Dutchman” Jacob Waltz and the Lost Dutchman Mine is at Superstition Mountain Museum. Exhibits include a collection of mining tools, historical maps, and artifacts relating to the “gold” age of the Superstition Mountains. | 4087 N. Apache Trail (AZ 188) | Apache Junction | 480/983–4888 | www.superstitionmountainmuseum.org | $5 | Daily 9–4.
Goldfield Ghost Town.
Goldfield became an instant town of about 4,000 residents after a gold strike in 1892; it dried up five years later when the gold mine flooded. Today the Goldfield Ghost Town is an interesting place to grab a cool drink, pan for gold, go for a mine tour, or take a desert jeep ride or horseback tour of the area. The ghost town’s shops are open daily 10–5, the saloon daily 11–9, and gunfights are held hourly noon–4 on weekends. | 4650 N. Mammoth Mine Rd., 4 miles northeast of Apache Junction on AZ 188 | Goldfield | 480/983–0333 | www.goldfieldghosttown.com.
Peralta Trail
35 miles east of Downtown Phoenix, located in the Superstition Mountains.
This 4-mile hike offers a spectacular view of Weaver’s Needle, which is one of Arizona’s most famous sites in the folklore-rich Superstition Mountains. It takes a few hours to ascend the 1,400 feet. Bring water, food, and sunscreen.
Getting Here and Around
About 11½ miles southeast of Apache Junction, off U.S. 60, take Peralta Trail Road, just past King’s Ranch Road, an 8-mile, rough gravel road that leads to the start of the Peralta Trail.
The Lost Dutchman Mine
Not much is known about Jacob “the Dutchman” Waltz except that he was born around 1808 in Germany (he was “Deutsch,” not “Dutch”) and emigrated to the United States, where he spent several years at mining camps in the Southeast, in the West, and finally in Arizona. There’s documentation that he did indeed have access to a large quantity of gold, though he never registered a claim for the mine that was attributed to him.
Golden Rumors
In 1868 Waltz appeared in the newly developing community of Pumpkinville, soon to become Phoenix. He kept to himself on his 160-acre homestead on the bank of the Salt River. From time to time he would disappear for a few weeks and return with enough high-quality ore to keep him in a wonderful fashion. Soon word was out that “Crazy Jake” had a vast gold mine in the Superstition Mountains, east of the city near the Apache Trail.
At the same time, stories about a rich gold mine discovered by the Peralta family of Mexico were circulating. Local Apaches raided the mine, which was near their sacred Thunder Mountain. In what became known as the Peralta Massacre, the Peraltas and more than 100 people working for them at the mine were killed. Rumors soon spread that Waltz had saved the life of a young Mexican who was part of Peralta’s group—one of few who had escaped—and was shown the Peraltas’ mine as a reward.
Searching the Superstitions
As the legend of the Dutchman’s mine grew, many opportunists attempted to follow Waltz into the Superstition Mountains. A crack marksman, Waltz quickly discouraged several who tried to track him. The flow of gold continued for several years.
In 1891 the Salt River flooded, badly damaging Waltz’s home. When the floodwaters receded, neighbors found Waltz there in a weakened condition. He was taken to the nearby home and boardinghouse of Julia Thomas, who nursed the Dutchman for months. When his death was imminent, he reportedly gave Julia the directions to his mine.
Julia and another boarder searched for the mine fruitlessly. In her later years she sold maps to the treasure, based upon her recollections of Waltz’s description. Thousands have searched for the lost mine, many losing their lives in the process—either to the brutality of fellow searchers or that of the rugged desert—and more than a century later gold seekers are still trying to connect the pieces of the puzzle.
The Legend Today
There’s no doubt that the Dutchman had a source of extremely rich gold ore. But was it in the Superstition Mountains, nearby Goldfield, or maybe even in the Four Peaks region? Wherever it was, it’s still hidden. Perhaps the best-researched books on the subject are T. E. Glover’s The Lost Dutchman Mine of Jacob Waltz and the companion book The Holmes Manuscript. Ron Feldman of OK Corral (480/982–4040 | www.okcorrals.com) in Apache Junction has become an expert on the subject during his 30-plus years in the region. He leads adventurers on pack trips into the mysterious mountains to relive the lore and legends.
Sports and the Outdoors
Hiking
Peralta Trail.
The 4-mile round-trip Peralta Trail winds 1,400 feet up a small valley for a spectacular view of Weaver’s Needle, a monolithic rock formation that is one of Arizona’s more famous sights. Allow a few hours for this rugged and challenging hike, bring plenty of water, sunscreen, a hat, and a snack or lunch. Don’t hike it in the middle of the day in summer. Moderate. | Goldfield.
Boyce Thompson Arboretum
60 miles east of Downtown Phoenix, 30 miles southeast of the Peralta Trail.
If all that cacti get overwhelming, take a trip about an hour outside of Phoenix to the Boyce Thompson Arboretum, where you’ll find a wonderland of exotic plants. Desert plants and tropical birds make this oasis worth the visit.
Getting Here and Around
From Florence Junction, take U.S. 60 east for 12 miles.
Exploring
Boyce Thompson Arboretum.
At the foot of Picketpost Mountain in Superior, the Boyce Thompson Arboretum is often called an oasis in the desert: the arid rocky expanse gives way to lush riparian glades home to 3,200 different desert plants and more than 230 bird and 72 terrestrial species. The arboretum offers a living album of the world’s desert and semiarid region plants, including exotic species such as Canary Islands date palms and Australian eucalyptus. Trails offer breathtaking scenery in the gardens and the exhibits, especially during the spring wildflower season. A variety of tours are offered year-round. Benches with built-in misters offer relief from the heat. Bring along a picnic and enjoy the beauty. | 37615 U.S. 60, mile marker 223 | Superior | 520/689–2811 | www.azstateparks.com/Parks/BOTH | $10 | Daily 8–5.
En Route: A few miles past the arboretum, Superior is the first of several modest mining towns and the launching point for a dramatic winding ascent through the Mescals to a 4,195-foot pass that affords panoramic views of this copper-rich range and its huge, dormant, open-pit mines. Collectors will want to watch for antiques shops, but be forewarned that quality varies considerably. A gradual descent will take you into Miami and Claypool, once-thriving boomtowns that have carried on quietly since major-corporation mining ground to a halt in the ’70s. Working-class buildings are dwarfed by the mountainous piles of copper tailings. At a stoplight in Claypool, AZ 188 splits off northward to the Apache Trail, but continue on U.S. 60 another 3 miles to Globe.
Globe
90 miles east of Downtown Phoenix, 51 miles east of Apache Junction, 25 miles east of Superior, and 3 miles east of Claypool’s AZ 188 turnoff, 30 miles east of Boyce Thompson.
In the southern reaches of Tonto National Forest, Globe is the most modern of the area’s dilapidated mining towns. Initially, it was gold and silver that brought miners here—the city allegedly got its name from a large, circular boulder of silver, with lines like continents, found by prospectors—although the region is now known for North America’s richest copper deposits. TIP If you’re driving the Apache Trail loop, stop in Globe to fill up the tank; it’s the last chance to gas up until looping all the way back to U.S. 60 at Apache Junction.
Getting Here and Around
Globe is at the intersection of U.S. 60 and AZ 188. At the Globe Chamber of Commerce, you can pick up brochures detailing the self-guided Historic Downtown Walking Tour.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Globe Chamber of Commerce. | 1360 N. Broad St., 1¼ miles north of downtown on U.S. 60 | 928/425–4495, 800/804–5623 | www.globemiamichamber.com.
Exploring
Besh-Ba Gowah Archaeological Park.
For a step 800 years back in time, tour the 2 acres of the excavated Salado Indian site at the Besh-Ba Gowah Archaeological Park on the southeastern side of town. After a trip through the small museum and a video introduction, view remnants of more than 200 rooms occupied by the Salado during the 13th and 14th centuries. Public areas include the central plaza (also the principal burial ground), roasting pits, and open patios. Besh-Ba Gowah is a name given by the Apaches, who, arriving in the 17th century, found the pueblo abandoned and moved in. Loosely translated, the name means “metal camp,” and remains left on the site suggest it was part of an extensive commerce and trading network. | 1324 S. Jesse Hayes Rd. | 928/425–0320 | www.globeaz.gov/visitors/besh-ba-gowah | $5 | Daily 9–4:30.
Where to Eat and Stay
Chalo’s.
$ | MEXICAN | This roadside spot offers top-notch Mexican and Tex-Mex food that highlights green chiles. Fortunately, you can request mild or spicy versions of enchiladas, burros, and practically anything else on the menu. Be sure to ask for water. Try the savory stuffed sopapillas, filled with pork and beef, beans, and red or green chiles. It’s a favorite among locals, so plan for an early lunch or dinner to avoid a wait. | Average main: $9 | 902 E. Ash St. | 928/425–0515 | www.chalosglobe.com.
Noftsger Hill Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | Built in 1907, this B&B was originally the North Globe Schoolhouse; now classrooms serve as guest rooms, filled with mining-era antiques and affording fantastic views of the Pinal Mountains and historic Old Dominion Mine. All rooms have private baths; one has air-conditioning, and the rest have evaporative coolers, which work well at this higher elevation. You can walk off “miner-size” breakfasts on the enjoyable hike through the scenic Copper Hills just outside. Pros: giant windows offer pleasant natural light; many rooms have original classroom chalkboards devoted to guest comments. Cons: city slickers might miss modern bath fixtures and amenities. | Rooms from: $135 | 425 North St. | 928/425–2260, 877/780–2479 | www.noftsgerhillinn.com | 6 rooms | Breakfast.
Broad Street, Globe’s main drag, is lined with antiques and gift shops.
Tonto National Monument
30 miles northwest of Globe.
One of the best-preserved examples of Salado cliff dwellings, Tonto National Monument offers visitors a peek at 13th-century life.
Getting Here and Around
Tonto National Monument is located off AZ 188, approximately 25 miles north of U.S. 60. It’s about a two-hour drive from the Phoenix area. If you feel like a real journey, take AZ 88, otherwise known as the Apache Trail, to Tonto National Monument. Almost half of the 47-mile trail is gravel, so be prepared for a very long and bumpy ride.
Exploring
Tonto National Monument.
You can visit a well-preserved complex of 13th-century Salado cliff dwellings at this site. There’s a self-guided walking tour of the Lower Cliff Dwellings, but if you can, take a ranger-led tour of the 40-room Upper Cliff Dwellings, offered on select mornings from November to April. Tour reservations are required and should be made as far as a month in advance. | 26260 N. AZ 188 | Roosevelt | 928/467–2241 | www.nps.gov/tont | $3 | Daily 8–5.
Theodore Roosevelt Lake Reservoir and Dam
5 miles northwest of Tonto National Monument on AZ 188, 125 miles north of Phoenix.
Water is a rarity in the desert, which is why Theodore Roosevelt Lake is one of the most popular recreation destinations in the area. Boaters, fishermen, and water-skiers flock here throughout the year.
Getting Here and Around
Theodore Roosevelt Lake Reservoir and Dam is located off AZ 188, approximately 30 miles north of U.S. 60. It’s on the same road as Tonto National Monument; the drive takes about two hours from Phoenix.
Exploring
Theodore Roosevelt Lake Reservoir & Dam.
Flanked by the desolate Mazatzal and Sierra Anchas mountain ranges, Theodore Roosevelt Lake Reservoir & Dam is an aquatic recreational area—a favorite with bass anglers, water-skiers, and boaters. This is the largest masonry dam on the planet, and the massive bridge is the longest two-lane, single-span, steel-arch bridge in the nation. | Tonto Basin Ranger Station | Roosevelt | 928/467–3200.
En Route: Past the reservoir, AZ 188 turns west and becomes a meandering dirt road, eventually winding its way back to Apache Junction via the magnificent, bronze-hued volcanic cliff walls of Fish Creek Canyon, with views of the sparkling lakes, towering saguaros, and, in the springtime, vast fields of wildflowers.
Tortilla Flat
18 miles southwest of Roosevelt Dam, 18 miles northeast of Apache Junction, 60 miles northeast of Phoenix.
Tortilla Flat might just be the closest thing to the end of the world you’ll find. A sort of cowboy rest-stop, it’s a favorite for travelers who want to stretch their legs after a bumpy, desolate ride in the desert.
Getting Here and Around
Tortilla Flat is located off AZ 88, the bumpy and historic Apache Trail. It’s about 60 miles from Downtown Phoenix, but leave at least two hours for the journey. Take U.S. 60 east of Phoenix through Apache Junction, then take the Idaho exit and head north toward AZ 88 and drive for approximately 18 miles. Be prepared for a bumpy and gravelly ride on parts of AZ 88—it’s historic for a reason.
Exploring
Tortilla Flat.
Close to the end of the Apache Trail, this old-time restaurant and country store are what is left of an authentic stagecoach stop at Tortilla Flat. This is a fun place for well-earned rest and refreshment—miner- and cowboy-style grub, of course—before heading back the last 18 miles to civilization. Enjoy a hearty bowl of killer chili and some prickly-pear-cactus ice cream while sitting at the counter on a saddle bar stool. | 480/984–1776 | www.tortillaflataz.com.