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27 miles south of Flagstaff on AZ 89A; 114 miles north of Phoenix, I–17 to AZ 179 to AZ 89A; 60 miles northeast of Prescott, U.S. 89 to AZ 89A.

It’s easy to see what draws so many people to Sedona. Red-rock buttes—Cathedral Rock, Bear Mountain, Courthouse Rock, and Bell Rock, among others—reach up into an almost-always blue sky, and both colors are intensified by dark-green pine forests. Surrealist Max Ernst, writer Zane Grey, and many filmmakers drew inspiration from these vistas—more than 80 Westerns were shot in the area in the 1940s and ’50s alone.

These days, Sedona lures enterprising restaurateurs and gallery owners from the East and West coasts. New Age followers, who believe that the area contains some of Earth’s more important vortexes (energy centers), also come in great numbers, seeking a “vibe” that confers a sense of balance and well-being and enhances creativity.

Expansion since the early 1980s has been rapid, and lack of planning has taken its toll in the form of unattractive developments and increased traffic.

The city of Sedona is young, and there are few historic sites; as many visitors conclude, you don’t come to Sedona to tour the town itself. The main downtown activity is shopping, mostly for Southwestern-style paintings, clothing, rugs, jewelry, and Native American artifacts. Just beyond the shops and restaurants, however, canyons, creeks, ancient dwellings, and the red rocks beckon. The area is relatively easy to hike and bike, or you can take a jeep tour into the hills.

Getting Here and Around

Sedona stretches along AZ 89A, its main thoroughfare, which runs roughly east–west through town. Uptown, the section with most of the shops and restaurants, is at the east end. Free parking is plentiful throughout Sedona, but especially in Uptown: the visitor center, a half-block off 89A on Forest Road, has an adjacent parking lot; parking spaces along the streets are free for three hours; or park all day in the large municipal lot a few blocks farther east, off Jordan Road.

The most scenic route into town from Phoenix is taking Interstate 17 to AZ 260 toward Cottonwood, then going northeast on AZ 89A. To reach Sedona more directly from Phoenix, take Interstate 17 north for 107 miles until you come to AZ 179; it’s another winding 7½ miles on that road, past the Village of Oak Creek, into town. The trip should take about 2 hours. The 27-mile drive north from Sedona to Flagstaff on AZ 89A, which winds its way through Oak Creek Canyon, is breathtaking.

Sedona Airport, in West Sedona, is a base for several air tours but has no regularly scheduled flights.

The Arizona Shuttle makes 12 trips daily between Sedona and Phoenix; the fare is $49 one way. You can also get on or off at Camp Verde, Cottonwood, or the Village of Oak Creek (7 miles outside Sedona on AZ 179). Reservations are required.

Weekend traffic near Sedona, especially during summer months, can approach gridlock on the narrow highways. Leave for your destination at first light to bypass the day-trippers, late risers, and midday heat.

Sedona is roughly divided into three neighborhoods: Uptown, which is a walkable shopping district that encompasses the areas just north and south of the “Y” (where AZ 179 and AZ 89A intersect); West Sedona, which is a 4-mile-long commercial strip; and the Village of Oak Creek, which lies a few miles south of the “Y” along AZ 179. The Verde Lynx provides bus transportation (and has wheelchair lifts) east and west along AZ 89A until 7 pm for $1 each way. Sedona Taxi is handy for getting to and from restaurants or trailheads.

Sedona Trolley offers two types of daily orientation tours, both departing from the main bus stop in Uptown and lasting less than an hour. One goes along AZ 179 to the Chapel of the Holy Cross; the other passes through West Sedona to Boynton Canyon (Enchantment Resort). Rates are $15 for one or $25 for both.

If you want to explore the red rocks of Sedona on your own, you can rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle from an agency such as Barlow Jeep Rentals; most visitors opt for a jeep tour.

Planning Your Time

In warmer months visit air-conditioned shops at midday and do hiking and jeep tours in the early morning or late afternoon, when the light is softer and the heat less oppressive. Many of the most memorable spots in Sedona are considered energy centers; pick up a vortex map of the area at the visitor center.

The vistas of Sedona from Airport Mesa at sunset can’t be beat. The Upper Red Rock Loop has great photo opportunities.

Essentials

Visitor Information
Sedona Visitor Center. | 331 Forest Rd., just off AZ 89A, Uptown | 928/282–7722, 800/288–7336 | www.visitsedona.com.

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Exploring

Top Attractions

Bell Rock.
With its distinctive shape right out of your favorite Western film and its proximity to the main drag, this popular butte ensures a steady flow of admirers, so you may want to arrive early in the day. The parking lot next to the Bell Rock Pathway often fills by mid-morning, even midweek. The views from here are good, but an easy and fairly accessible path follows mostly gentle terrain for 1 mile to the base of the butte. Mountain bikers, parents with all-terrain baby strollers, and not-so-avid hikers should have little problem getting there. No official paths climb the rock itself, but many forge their own routes (at their own risk). | AZ 179, several hundred yards north of Bell Rock Blvd., Village of Oak Creek.

Cathedral Rock.
It’s almost impossible not to be drawn to this butte’s towering, variegated spires. The approximately 1,200-foot-high Cathedral Rock looms dramatically over town. When you emerge from the narrow gorge of Oak Creek Canyon, this is the first recognizable formation you’ll spot. The butte is best seen toward dusk from a distance. Hikers may want to drive to the Airport Mesa and then hike the rugged but generally flat path that loops around the airfield. The trail is ½ mile up Airport Road off AZ 89A in West Sedona; the reward is a panoramic view of Cathedral Rock without the crowds. Those not hiking should drive through the Village of Oak Creek and 5 miles west on Verde Valley School Road to its end, where you can view the butte from a beautiful streamside vantage point and take a dip in Oak Creek if you wish. | 5 miles to end of Verde Valley School Rd., west off AZ 179 | Village of Oak Creek.

Cathedral Rock Trail.
A vigorous but nontechnical 1½-mile scramble up the slickrock (smooth, rather than slippery, sandstone), this path leads to a nearly 360-degree view of red-rock country. Follow the cairns (rock piles marking the trail) and look for the footholds in the rock. Carry plenty of water: though short, the trail offers little shade and the pitch is steep. You can see the Verde Valley and Mingus Mountain in the distance. Look for the barely discernible “J” etched on the hillside marking the former ghost town of Jerome 30 miles away. | Trailhead: about ½ mile down Back O’ Beyond Rd. off AZ 179, 3 miles south of Sedona | Sedona.

Chapel of the Holy Cross.
You needn’t be religious to be inspired by the setting and the architecture here. Built in 1956 by Marguerite Brunwige Staude, a student of Frank Lloyd Wright, this modern landmark, with a huge cross on the facade, rises between two red-rock peaks. Vistas of the town and the surrounding area are spectacular. Though there is only one regular service—a beautiful Taizé service of prayer and song on Monday at 5 pm—all are welcome for quiet meditation.

A small gift shop sells religious artifacts and books. A trail east of the chapel leads you—after a 20-minute walk over occasional loose-rock surfaces—to a seat surrounded by voluptuous red-limestone walls, worlds away from the bustle and commerce around the chapel. | Chapel Rd. off AZ 179, Village of Oak Creek | 928/282–4069 | www.chapeloftheholycross.com | Free | Daily 9–5.

Oak Creek Canyon.
Whether you want to swim, hike, picnic, or enjoy beautiful scenery framed through a car window, head north through the wooded Oak Creek Canyon. It’s the most scenic route to Flagstaff and the Grand Canyon, and worth a drive-through even if you’re not heading north. The road winds through a steep-walled canyon, where you crane your neck for views of the dramatic rock formations above. Although the forest is primarily evergreen, the fall foliage is glorious. Oak Creek, which runs along the bottom, is lined with tent campgrounds, fishing camps, cabins, motels, and restaurants. | AZ 89A, beginning 1 mile north of Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon.

Red-Rock Geology

It’s hard to imagine that the landlocked desert surrounding Sedona was, for much of prehistoric time, an area of dunes and swamps on the shore of an ancient sea. The ebb and flow of this sea shaped the land. When the sea rose, it planed the dunes before dropping more sediment on top. The process continued for a few hundred million years. Eventually the sediment hardened into gray layers of limestone on top of the red sandstone. When North America collided with another continental plate, the land buckled and lifted, forming the Rocky Mountains and raising northern Arizona thousands of feet. Volcanoes erupted in the area, capping some of the rock with erosion-resistant basalt.

Oak Creek started flowing at this time, eroding through the layers of sandstone and limestone. Along with other forces of erosion, the creek carved out the canyons and shaped the buttes. Sedona’s buttes stayed intact because a resilient layer of lava had hardened on top and slowed the erosion process considerably. As iron minerals in the sandstone were gradually exposed to the elements, they turned red in a process similar to rusting. The iron minerals, in turn, stained the surrounding colorless quartz and grains of sand—it only takes 2% red-iron material to give the sandstone its red color.

Like the rings of a tree, the striations in the rock document the passage of time and the events: limestone marking the rise of the sea, sandstone indicating when the region was coastline.

Slide Rock State Park.
A good place for a picnic, Slide Rock is 7 miles north of Sedona. On a hot day you can plunge down a natural rock slide into a swimming hole (bring an extra pair of jeans or a sturdy bathing suit and river shoes to wear on the slide). The site started as an early-20th-century apple orchard, and the natural beauty attracted Hollywood—a number of John Wayne and Jimmy Stewart movies were filmed here.

A few easy hikes run along the rim of the gorge. One downside is the traffic, particularly on summer weekends; you might have to wait to get into the park after mid-morning. Unfortunately, the popularity of the stream has led to the occasional midsummer closing due to E. coli–bacteria infestations; the water is tested daily and there is a water-quality hotline at 602/542–0202. | 6871 N. AZ 89A, Oak Creek Canyon | 928/282–3034 | www.azstateparks.com | $10 per vehicle for up to 4 persons; $20 per vehicle in summer | Oct.–Apr., daily 8–5; May–Sept., daily 8–6 (last admission is 1 hr before closing).

Snoopy Rock.
Kids love this butte that looks uncannily like the famed Peanuts beagle lying atop red rock instead of his doghouse. You can distinguish the formation from several places around town, including the mall in Uptown Sedona, but to get a clear view, venture up Schnebly Hill Road. Park by the trailhead on the left immediately before the paved road deteriorates to dirt. Marg’s Draw, one of several trails originating here, is worthwhile, gently meandering 100 feet down-canyon, through the tortured desert flora to Morgan Road. Backtrack to the parking lot for close to a 3-mile hike. | Schnebly Hill Rd. off AZ 179, Central.

Worth Noting

Courthouse Butte.
Toward sunset, when this monolith is free of shadow, the red sandstone seems to catch on fire. From the highway, Courthouse Butte sits in back of Bell Rock and can be viewed without any additional hiking or driving. | AZ 179, Village of Oak Creek.

Red Rock State Park.
Two miles west of Sedona via AZ 89A is the turnoff for this 286-acre state park, a less crowded alternative to Slide Rock State Park, though without the possibility of swimming. The 5 miles of interconnected trails are well marked and provide beautiful red rock vistas. There are daily naturalist-led walks at 10 am, a featured program at 2 pm, and bird-watching excursions on Wednesday and Saturday at 9 am. | 4050 Red Rock Loop Rd., West | 928/282–6907 | www.azstateparks.com | $5 | Daily 8–5.

Submarine Rock.
This elongated vessel of a rock has an interesting shape, but isn’t as photogenic as others in the area: nestled in the canyon and colored in beige tones, it doesn’t catch the sunlight in the same way. Getting to Submarine Rock, though, is more interesting than seeing it. You can drive up FR 179F, a very technical jeep trail that should be attempted only by highly skilled off-road-vehicle drivers, or you can take a jeep tour offered in town.

For experienced mountain bikers, Broken Arrow Trail, used heavily by cyclists and hikers, rolls across washes, red clay, and large mounds of slickrock. The 2-mile path is moderate but best done in the early morning in summer. Note that Submarine Rock is not the best retreat for serenity seekers: the rock abuts a popular jeep trail, which is clogged with tour jeeps revving over the rugged terrain. | End of Morgan Rd., off AZ 179, Central.

Where to Eat

Some Sedona restaurants close in January and February, so call before you go; if you’re planning a visit in high season (April–October), make reservations.

Coffee Pot Restaurant.
$ | AMERICAN | Locals and tourists alike swarm to this spacious diner for scrumptious breakfast and brunch food served by a friendly waitstaff. One hundred and one omelet options are the stars of the show, and include such concoctions as the quirky peanut butter and jelly or the basic ham and cheese. Warm homemade biscuits always hit the spot. An extensive lunch menu that includes everything from Mexican dishes to a Greek salad rounds out the offerings. | Average main: $9 | 2050 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–6626 | www.coffeepotsedona.com | No dinner.

Cowboy Club.
$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | At this restaurant catering to carnivores, you can hang out in the casual Cowboy Club or dine in the more formal Silver Saddle Room, where suede booths are surrounded by cowboy art and a pair of large cattle horns. High-quality cuts of beef are the specialty, but the burgers, grilled trout, and vegetable pot pies are delicious, too. | Average main: $25 | 241 N. AZ 89A, Uptown | 928/282–4200 | www.cowboyclub.com.

Dahl & Di Luca Ristorante Italiano.
$$$ | ITALIAN | At this popular Italian restaurant, expect to find delicious homemade soups like white bean with ham and hearty minestrone. Specialties here include potato gnocchi with a vodka sauce and pollo piccata (chicken in a lemon, capers, and chardonnay sauce). Any pasta dish can be made gluten-free with corn fusilli. Renaissance reproductions and café seating give the impression of a Roman piazza. Make reservations for a table, or sit at the bar—good food but far less romantic. | Average main: $25 | 2321 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–5219 | www.dahlanddiluca.com | No lunch.

Fodor’s Choice | Elote Café.
$$ | MEXICAN | Traditional Mexican recipes get a creative and tasty update at this popular restaurant. Start with the namesake elote, roasted corn on a stick; this Mexican street-food favorite is transformed into an addictive dip of grilled corn kernels, Cotija cheese, lime, and chiles. Small plates like chicken tacos with mole sauce are delicious and affordable, and larger dishes like braised lamb shank in ancho chile sauce or chiles rellenos are equally satisfying. Enjoy the colorful interior or sit on the open-air deck for fabulous Sedona views. Just come prepared for a wait, because the word is out and they don’t take reservations. | Average main: $19 | 771 AZ 179, Arabella Hotel Sedona, Central | 928/203–0105 | www.elotecafe.com | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch | Reservations not accepted.

Fodor’s Choice | Heartline Café.
$$$ | EUROPEAN | Fresh flowers and innovative cuisine that even the staff struggle to characterize are this attractive café’s hallmarks. Local ingredients pepper the menu, giving a Sedona twist to Continental fare; favorites include pecan-crusted, Sedona-raised trout with Dijon sauce and chicken breast with pesto cream sauce. Appealing vegetarian plates are also available, and breakfast specialties (served until 3 pm) include lemon creme–stuffed French toast and crab Benedict. Lunch sandwiches and wraps can be ordered to go for a gourmet picnic in the red rocks. Desserts include a phenomenal crème brûlée and a marzipan-filled poached pear with caramel sauce. | Average main: $27 | 1610 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–0785 | www.heartlinecafe.com.

L’Auberge.
$$$$ | FRENCH | The most formal dining room in Sedona, on the L’Auberge de Sedona resort property, promises a quiet, civilized evening of indulgence. The menu, a fusion of American cuisine with French influences, is offered as a two-, three-, or four-course meal, and can be paired with selections from the resort’s 1,200-bottle wine cellar. Among the house favorites are the filet mignon and the Scottish salmon. The lavish Sunday brunch is well worth the splurge—or have cocktails and lighter fare creekside at the Veranda Bar. | Average main: $54 | L’Auberge de Sedona, 301 L’Auberge La., Uptown | 928/282–1661 | www.lauberge.com.

New Frontiers Natural Marketplace.
$ | CAFÉ | The healthful fare at this mostly organic grocery and deli runs the gamut from grab-and-go sandwiches and the well-stocked salad bar to hot items like honey-glazed salmon, cheese or chicken enchiladas, and turkey meat loaf. Get supplies for your red-rock picnic or relax at the indoor-outdoor dining area. | Average main: $7 | 1420 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–6311 | www.newfrontiersmarket.com/sedona.

Oaxaca Restaurant.
$$ | MEXICAN | Tasty standards complement some of the best Uptown canyon vistas at this modern Mexican restaurant with a lovely balcony. The smoky kick of the salsa, along with the sun-kissed scenery, may transport you south of the border, but dishes are prepared under the auspices of owner Carla Butler, a dietitian who shuns the traditional use of lard and cholesterol-containing oils in favor of healthier options—with delicious results. A south-of-the-border breakfast is served on weekends. | Average main: $16 | 321 N. AZ 89A, Uptown | 928/282–4179 | www.oaxacarestaurant.com.

René at Tlaquepaque.
$$$$ | EUROPEAN | Ease into plush banquettes at this quiet, lace-curtained restaurant for classic French and Continental dishes. Recommended starters include French onion soup and the spinach-and-wild-mushroom salad in a hazelnut vinaigrette. Rack of lamb is the house specialty, and the Dover sole is a real find, far from the white cliffs. Cherry or banana flambés for two, prepared tableside, are impressive for dessert. There’s a well-selected wine list, too. Service is formal, but resort-casual attire is acceptable. | Average main: $31 | Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts Village, Unit B–117, AZ 179, Central | 928/282–9225 | www.renerestaurantsedona.com.

Sally’s B.B.Q.
$ | SOUTHERN | Although it offers limited indoor seating, this Uptown hideaway behind a long row of tourist shops is worth a visit. It’s super-casual, with just an ordering window where you can select pulled-pork sandwiches and homemade comfort food such as beans or coleslaw. The barbecue sauce has a bit of a kick, and the french fries (also made from scratch) are fabulous. Hours vary with the season (during winter they close at 7), so call ahead. | Average main: $8 | 250 Jordan Rd., No. 9, Uptown | 928/282–6533 | www.sallysbbq.com.

Where to Stay

Adobe Village Graham Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | All of the rooms at this inn south of Sedona have either wood-burning or gas fireplaces, and some of them also have Jacuzzi tubs and balconies that look out onto the red rocks. The four spacious villas each have separate entrances and a fireplace that opens into both the sitting area and the bathroom, which is outfitted with a two-person Jacuzzi tub. What makes this place really special, though, is the impeccable yet casual service. Pros: above-average hospitality; variety of accommodations; close to hiking and biking trails. Cons: the villas and suites are pricey. | Rooms from: $185 | 150 Canyon Circle Dr., Village of Oak Creek | 928/284–1425, 800/228–1425 | www.adobevillagegrahaminn.com | 6 rooms, 5 suites, 4 private villas | Breakfast.

Alma de Sedona Bed and Breakfast Inn.
$$ | B&B/INN | This enchanting bed-and-breakfast has spectacular views and ultracomfortable beds. The inn was built well off the main drag and in the shadow of the buttes for views and privacy. Understated and inviting rooms all have private entrances and patios. Bath salts and candles await in the bathrooms, most of which have two-person Jacuzzi tubs. Pros: spacious and private rooms; excellent views. Cons: decor could use updating; some rooms require climbing stairs. | Rooms from: $169 | 50 Hozoni Dr., West | 928/282–2737, 800/923–2282 | www.almadesedona.com | 12 rooms | Breakfast.

Amara Resort and Spa.
$$$ | RESORT | You might not expect to find a boutique hotel in small, outdoorsy Sedona, but at the Amara, next to gurgling Oak Creek, sleek rooms deviate from the usual Sedona look, with low-slung beds and work desks with ergonomic seating. Other cushy extras include in-room DVD players and Aveda bath products. Step out onto your room’s private balcony or terrace to take in expansive views of the red rocks or pool and waterfalls. Pros: good spa and restaurant; walk to Uptown. Cons: city-chic feels somewhat incongruous with natural setting. | Rooms from: $249 | 100 Amara La., Uptown | 928/282–4828, 800/815–6152 | www.amararesort.com | 92 rooms, 8 suites | No meals.

Boots & Saddles.
$$$ | B&B/INN | At this quiet inn tucked behind the main street in West Sedona, the romantic rooms are decorated in an upscale Western motif, complete with genuine cowboy artifacts, and most have decks with hot tubs and telescopes for stargazing. Pros: hosts go the extra mile to pamper and advise; private decks. Cons: first-floor rooms can get noise from upstairs guests. | Rooms from: $190 | 2900 Hopi Dr., West | 928/282–1944, 800/201–1944 | www.oldwestbb.com | 6 rooms | Breakfast.

Briar Patch Inn.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This B&B in verdant Oak Creek Canyon exudes rustic elegance in its Southwestern-themed rooms in charming wooden cabins, many with decks overlooking the creek. On summer mornings you can sit outside and enjoy home-baked breads and fresh egg dishes while listening to live classical violin or guitar music. Massage and facial services are available on the premises. Pros: private and quiet; tranquil creekside setting with beautiful gardens. Cons: pricey; some cabins can be dark. | Rooms from: $225 | 3190 N. AZ 89A, Oak Creek Canyon | 928/282–2342, 888/809–3030 | www.briarpatchinn.com | 19 cottages | Breakfast.

The Canyon Wren.
$$ | B&B/INN | The best value in the Oak Creek Canyon area, this small and serene B&B across the road from the creek has freestanding cabins with views of the canyon walls. It’s likely that the hosts’ lovable dogs will greet you on arrival. Cabins have private decks, electric-but-romantic fireplaces, and a cozy, woodsy feel. Pros: romantic yet homey; wonderful hosts and breakfast. Cons: some cabins are close to road; 6 miles to town. | Rooms from: $165 | 6425 N. AZ 89A, Oak Creek Canyon | 928/282–6900, 800/437–9736 | www.canyonwrencabins.com | 4 cabins | Breakfast.

Desert Quail Inn.
$ | HOTEL | Close to the lion’s share of the trailheads, this is a good base for outdoor adventures, and the front desk has plenty of maps and advice on offer. Large rooms have refrigerators and microwaves, and they are quiet enough for a good night’s rest after a day of exploring. Pros: large, clean rooms. Cons: two-story roadside motel. | Rooms from: $99 | 6626 AZ 179, Village of Oak Creek | 928/284–1433, 800/385–0927 | www.desertquailinn.com | 40 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | El Portal Sedona Hotel.
$$$ | B&B/INN | This stunning hacienda is one of the most beautifully designed boutique hotels in the Southwest. Decor accents include authentic Tiffany and Roycroft pieces, French doors leading to balconies or a grassy central courtyard, stained-glass windows and ceiling panels, river-rock or tile fireplaces, and huge custom-designed beds. Wine and hors d’oeuvres like cheese and lavosh crackers are served in the afternoon. Breakfast is delicious, but not included in the room rates. Pros: attractive rooms; next to Tlaquepaque shops and restaurants; pet-friendly rooms have private outdoor yard space. Cons: breakfast is expensive; location not as secluded as some. | Rooms from: $249 | 95 Portal La., Central | 928/203–9405, 800/313–0017 | www.elportalsedona.com | 12 rooms | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | Enchantment Resort.
$$$$ | RESORT | A few miles outside of town, serene Boynton Canyon is the setting for this luxurious resort and its world-class destination spa, Mii amo. The rooms and suites are tucked into small, pueblo-style buildings, and accommodations come in many configurations: multiple bedrooms can be joined to create large, elaborate suites. All have beehive gas fireplaces, private decks, and superb views. Mii amo Spa offers all-inclusive packages with separate rooms and suites in the spa complex, as well as myriad treatments and innovative spa cuisine. Pros: gorgeous setting, next to great hiking trails; state-of-the-art spa; numerous on-site activities. Cons: 20-minute drive into town. | Rooms from: $395 | 525 Boynton Canyon Rd., West | 928/282–2900, 800/826–4180 | www.enchantmentresort.com | 107 rooms, 111 suites | No meals.

Junipine Resort.
$$$ | RESORT | These one- and two-bedroom cabins nestled in a juniper and pine forest (hence the name) are spacious and airy, with vaulted ceilings, wood-burning fireplaces, and large decks overlooking either the creek or the canyon. An excellent value for groups of four or more, some cabins are more than 1,400 square feet and sleep up to eight people. Junipine’s most enchanting feature might be the sound of Oak Creek roaring below, lulling you to sleep by the fire. Pros: huge, well-equipped cabins (some with hot tubs); trailheads on site. Cons: individually owned condo units have been individually decorated; creek views and hot tubs push up the cost; the group appeal can mean some partying neighbors. | Rooms from: $179 | 8351 N. AZ 89A, Oak Creek Canyon | 928/282–3375, 800/742–7463 | www.junipine.com | 50 suites | No meals.

Fodor’s Choice | L’Auberge de Sedona.
$$$$ | RESORT | This elegant resort consists of private hillside units with spectacular views and cozy cottages in the woods along Oak Creek. The original creekside rooms, with wood-burning fireplaces, are decorated in lush country-European style, and the contemporary units on the hill have large decks and private open-air showers. Phoenix couples flock to this hideaway and dine in the hotel’s French restaurant, one of the most romantic eateries in Arizona. The creekside patio bar is a great place for a cocktail or light meal. Pros: luxurious rooms and cabins; secluded setting yet close to town. Cons: in-house restaurant very pricey. | Rooms from: $325 | 301 L’Auberge La., Uptown | 928/282–1661, 800/905–5745, 800/272–6777 | www.lauberge.com | 22 lodge rooms,18 vista suites, 4 jr. suites, 45 cottages | No meals.

Lodge at Sedona.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Rooms in this rambling wood-and-stone Craftsman house have a refined rustic style; most have fireplaces, and some have jetted tubs, redwood decks, or hot tubs. For solitude, walk the seven-path classic labyrinth (made of local rock) and through the gardens. A chef prepares a lavish and healthy breakfast, as well as “sunset snacks” in the evening. Pros: tranquil setting yet short walk from West Sedona; friendly staff. Cons: limited views. | Rooms from: $199 | 125 Kallof Pl., West | 928/204–1942, 800/619–4467 | www.lodgeatsedona.com | 5 rooms, 9 suites | Breakfast.

Sedona Motel.
$ | HOTEL | Built on a terrace removed from the highway in order to afford it the same expansive views as the pricier resorts, this motel is pretty typical in all other respects. It’s within easy reach of most of Sedona’s attractions, and the rooms are well kept. Pros: good value; convenient walk to shops and restaurants; red-rock views. Cons: some road noise. | Rooms from: $110 | 218 Hwy. 179, Central | 928/282–7187, 877/828–7187 | www.thesedonamotel.com | 16 rooms | No meals.

Sky Ranch Lodge.
$$ | HOTEL | There may be no better vantage point in town from which to view Sedona’s red-rock canyons and sunsets than the private patios and balconies at Sky Ranch Lodge, near the top of Airport Mesa. Some rooms have stone fireplaces and some have kitchenettes. Local wines and craft beers are served at their garden bar. Paths on the grounds wind around fountains and, in summer, through colorful flower gardens. Pros: good value; great views. Cons: driving up and down the hill into town. | Rooms from: $129 | Top of Airport Rd., 1105 Airport Rd., West | 928/282–6400, 888/708–6400 | www.skyranchlodge.com | 92 rooms, 2 cottages | No meals.

Sugar Loaf Lodge.
$ | HOTEL | Though it may be hard to believe, there are still bargains in Sedona, and this one-story, family-run motel delivers. All rooms have refrigerators and microwaves, and the pool and hot-tub area serves as a gathering spot for swapping tales with fellow travelers—many from Europe—at the end of the day. Pros: cheap and clean. Cons: older, basic furnishings. | Rooms from: $65 | 1870 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–9451, 877/282–0632 | www.sedonasugarloaf.com | 15 rooms | Breakfast.

Nightlife and Performing Arts

Nightlife in Sedona tends to be sedate, although on high-season weekends there’s usually live music at the Enchantment Resort and the Amara Resort. You can also hear local musicians almost every night at Reds, the restaurant at Sedona Rouge Hotel. Options vary from jazz to rock and pop; in all cases, call ahead. The region’s weekly newspaper, Kudos, comes out on Wednesday, and provides a comprehensive listing of local entertainment.

Nightlife

Relics Restaurant & Lounge at Rainbow’s End.
The closest thing to a rollicking cowboy bar in Sedona is Relics Restaurant & Lounge at Rainbow’s End, a steakhouse with a wooden dance floor and live rock or country-and-western music most nights. | 3235 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–1593 | www.relicsrestaurant.com.

Sound Bites Grill.
This casual restaurant and bar offers live music, mostly jazz, on Wednesday through Sunday nights. It also has reasonably priced appetizers and cocktails, and excellent views of the sun setting over the red rocks if you’re lucky enough to grab a table on the outside deck. | 101 N. AZ 89A, Uptown | 928/282–2713 | www.soundbitesgrill.com.

Performing Arts

Chamber Music Sedona.
From October through May, Chamber Music Sedona hosts a classical concert series. They also host the “Met Live in HD” opera performances and a JazzFest in April. | Sedona | 928/204–2415 | www.chambermusicsedona.org.

Sedona Arts Center.
In addition to offering classes in all media, this center hosts First Fridays, when you can ride the free trolley to any member galleries in town, meet the artists, and view their work. It takes place from 5 to 8 pm the first Friday of each month. | 15 Art Barn Rd., Uptown | 928/282–3809 | www.sedonaartscenter.com.

Sedona International Film Festival.
This nine-day festival takes place in late February and features independent films from all over the world. | 2030 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–1177 | www.sedonafilmfestival.org.

Shopping

With a few exceptions, most of the stores in Uptown Sedona north of the “Y” (running along AZ 89A to the east of its intersection with AZ 179) cater to the tour-bus trade with Native American jewelry and New Age souvenirs. If this isn’t your style, the largest concentration of stores and galleries is along AZ 179, just south of the “Y,” with plenty of offerings for serious shoppers.

Arts and Crafts

Esteban’s.
Native American crafts and ceramics are the focus at Esteban’s. | Tlaquepaque, 336 AZ 179, No. 103, Bldg. B, Uptown | 928/282–4686 | www.estebanssedona.com.

Garland’s Navajo Rugs.
There’s a collection of new and antique rugs here, as well as Native American kachina dolls, pottery, and baskets. | 411 AZ 179, Uptown | 928/282–4070 | www.garlandsrugs.com.

James Ratliff Gallery.
Fun and functional pieces by up-and-coming artists are exhibited here. | Hillside Sedona, 671 AZ 179, A1 and A2, Uptown | 928/282–1404 | www.jamesratliffgallery.com.

Kuivato Glass Gallery.
In line with its name, this gallery has gorgeous glass lining its shelves. | Tlaquepaque, 336 AZ 179, No. 125, Bldg. B, Uptown | 928/282–1212 | www.kuivato.com.

Lanning Gallery.
The pieces for sale here are mostly Southwestern art and jewelry. | Hozho Center, 431 AZ 179, Uptown | 928/282–6865 | www.lanninggallery.com.

Sedona Pottery.
The ecletic mix of pieces available here includes flower-arranging bowls, egg separators, and life-size ceramic statues. | Garland Building, 411 AZ 179, Uptown | 928/282–1192 | www.sedonapottery.net.

Clothing

Looking West.
The spiffiest cowgirl-style getups in town fill the racks at Looking West. | 242 N. AZ 89A, Uptown | 928/282–4877.

Jewelry

Crystal Magic.
This shop dabbles in the metaphysical, with crystals, jewelry, and books for the New Age. | 2978 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–1622.

Shopping Centers

There are three main art-gallery complexes in Sedona—Hozho, Tlaquepaque, and Hillside, all located just south of the “Y.” Each has smaller galleries within the larger complex.

Hillside Sedona.
Half a dozen galleries and the popular Javelina Cantina, a Mexican restaurant and bar, are housed in the Hillside Sedona complex. | 671 AZ 179, Uptown | 928/282–4500 | www.hillsidesedona.net.

Hozho Center.
A minute or two north of Hillside Sedona shopping complex on AZ 179, the Hozho Center is a small, upscale complex in a beige Santa Fe–style building, with galleries and fine-art souvenirs. | 431 AZ 179, Uptown.

Fodor’s Choice | Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts Village.
Home to more than 50 shops and galleries and several restaurants, Tlaquepaque Arts & Crafts Village remains one of the best places for travelers to find mementos from their trip to Sedona. The complex of clay tile–roofed buildings arranged around a series of courtyards shares its name and architectural style with a crafts village just outside Guadalajara. It’s a lovely place to browse, but beware: prices tend to be high, and locals joke that it’s pronounced “to-lock-your-pocket.” | AZ 179, just south of “Y”, Uptown | 928/282–4838 | www.tlaq.com.

Sporting Goods

Canyon Outfitters.
This shop in West Sedona is good for gearing up with maps, clothing, and camping equipment before your outdoor adventures. | 2701 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–5294 | www.canyonoutfitterssedona.com.

The Hike House.
A unique shopping experience, The Hike House can not only outfit you from head to toe, they can also match you with a suitable and satisfying hiking itinerary through their interactive Trail Finder service. If you’d rather go on a guided hike, staff can arrange that as well. Grab some trail mix, cookies, and strong coffee at the coffee bar before hitting the trail. | Hozho Center, 431 AZ 179, Uptown | 928/282–5820 | www.thehikehouse.com.

Spas

While some prefer to harness Sedona’s rejuvenating energy at a vortex site, others seek renewal at one of the many spas in town. From all-inclusive spa retreats nestled in red-rock canyons to inexpensive bodywork performed by healing-arts students, Sedona has relaxing options for every budget and preference.

With its history of Native American traditions, Sedona is thought of as one of the most sacred healing spots on Earth. Spas incorporate indigenous materials, like red-rock clay, into their spa services—and choosing your treatments is part of the pleasure. Some of Sedona’s spas are destinations in themselves, offering experiences tailored to individual needs and desires.

Fodor’s Choice | Mii amo Spa.
Set in spectacular Boynton Canyon, Mii amo is a state-of-the-art facility with indoor and outdoor pools and treatment rooms. Meditate in the sand-floor crystal grotto before your Watsu water therapy or deep-tissue massage. Take a guided hike or try a tai chi, dance, or photography class. Afterward, dine in the spa’s healthful and tasty café (no egg yolks in these omelets), wearing only your spa robe if you like. All-inclusive spa packages are definitely the prime selection for a rejuvenating getaway. Otherwise, regular guests at the Enchantment Resort are welcome to partake in spa services, classes, and dining before and after their jeep tours. | Enchantment Resort, 525 Boynton Canyon Rd., West | 928/203–8500, 844/993–9518 | www.miiamo.com | $160 for 60-min massage, $235 for 90-min massage; $2,520–$4,918 for 3- to 7-night all-inclusive packages. Hot tubs, pools, sauna, steam room. Gym with: cardiovascular machines, free weights, weight-training equipment. Services: bodywork, facials, massage, scrubs, nutritional counseling. Classes and programs: dance, flexibility training, guided hikes, meditation, Pilates, tai chi, tennis, yoga.

NAMTI.
Students and faculty at the Northern Arizona Massage Therapy Institute, NAMTI, offer quality one-hour and 90-minute massage, craniosacral, reflexology, and facial treatments at much lower prices than you’ll pay at resort spas in the area. A particularly invigorating treatment is the specialized Thai Massage, a two-hour combination of deep-pressure massage and stretching movements (while on the floor, clothed) that improves flexibility and relieves tension. Discounts are given for multiple treatments, such as a facial and a massage, and for adding on shorter treatments like acupuncture. | 2120 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–7737 | www.namti.com | $59 for 60-min massage, $69 for 60–min facial, $79 for 90-min massage; $119 for massage and facial. Services: acupuncture, aromatherapy, facials, massage, waxing.

Sedona New Day Spa.
The popular Sedona New Day Spa uses local ingredients for their massage oils, exfoliation scrubs and body wraps. Their signature treatments, called Native Wisdom “Soul Journeys,” include a psychic reading of your chakras along with a massage. For couples, they have several luxurious packages. | 3004 W. AZ 89A, West | 928/282–7502 | www.sedonanewdayspa.com | $110 for 60-min massage; $150 for 90-min massage; $120 for 60-min facial. Services: baths, body wraps, facials, massage, nail treatment, waxing.

The Spa at L’Auberge.
As one of Sedona’s upscale resorts, L’Auberge offers an array of spa amenities for both resort guests and those lodging elsewhere. Here you can indulge in an outdoor massage on the bank of gurgling Oak Creek, or restore balance to your being with an Energy Healing Therapy such as Reiki. Their signature service is the 90-minute Sedona Dreams, which incorporates a ginger-lime exfoliating scrub, aromatherapy, and a hot-stone massage. The spa is intimate, with a rustic yet elegant vibe. | 301 L’Auberge La., Uptown | 800/905–5745, 928/282–1661 | www.lauberge.com | $135 for 60-min and $195 for 90-min massage, facial, or energy work; additional $30 for creekside treatments. Outdoor hot tub, steam rooms. Gym with: cardiovascular machines, free weights. Services: body wraps, facials, massage. Classes: yoga (for resort guests only).

Fodor’s Choice | The Spa at Sedona Rouge.
This spa is like an understated healing environment. Deepak Chopra chooses this simple and tranquil setting for his weeklong “SynchroDestiny” workshop each year. Skilled spa therapists meet with clients first to discuss individual goals before embarking on treatments like the Seven Sacred Pools Massage, which brings balance to the body’s seven energy centers, or chakras. Mind-body coaching services, ayurvedic treatments, and tarot readings are also popular. The gardens and interior lounges contribute to the overall nourishing experience. Yoga classes ($10) meet daily at 8 am. | Sedona Rouge Hotel and Spa, 2250 W. AZ 89A, West | 866/312–4111, 928/203–4111 | www.sedonarouge.com | $120 for 60-min massage; $180 for 90-min massage; $215 for 90-min coaching/stress management session. Hot tub, pool, steam room. Gym with: cardiovascular machines, free weights, weight-training equipment. Services: massage, facials, scrubs, wraps, waxing and tinting. Classes and programs: clairvoyant coaching, harmonious healing mind/body/spirit integration, yoga.

Sports and the Outdoors

The Brins Fire consumed 4,500 acres in Sedona in 2006. Although no people or structures were harmed, the human-ignited fire threatened the Oak Creek Canyon area and serves as a reminder about fire safety. Take precautions and use common sense. Extinguish all fires with water. Never toss a cigarette butt. And don’t hesitate to ask questions of local park rangers.

A Red Rock Pass is required to park in the Coconino National Forest from Oak Creek Canyon through Sedona and the Village of Oak Creek. Passes cost $5 for the day, $15 for the week, or $20 for an entire year, and can be purchased online and at the Coconino Forest Service Red Rock Ranger Station (8375 AZ 179, just south of Village of Oak Creek | 928/203–7500 | www.redrockcountry.org), which is open daily and has copious information on regional outdoor activities. Passes are also available from vending machines at popular trailheads—including Boynton Canyon and Bell Rock—and at the Sedona Chamber of Commerce, Circle K stores, grocery stores, and many Sedona hotels. Locals widely resent the pass, feeling that free access to national forests is a right. The Forest Service counters that it doesn’t receive enough federal funds to maintain the land surrounding Sedona, trampled by 5 million visitors each year, and that a parking fee is the best way to raise revenue.

Ballooning

Northern Light Balloon Expeditions.
One of only two companies with permits to fly over Sedona, Northern Light Balloon Expeditions offers sunrise flights that include a post-flight champagne breakfast picnic. | 928/282–2274, 800/230–6222 | www.northernlightballoon.com.

Red Rock Balloon Adventures.
Fly over the red rocks for one to two hours with a Red Rock Balloon Adventures tour; you’ll be served a picnic upon landing, along with a souvenir DVD of the flight. | 800/258–3754, 928/284–0040 | www.redrockballoons.com.

Fishing

Rainbow Trout Farm.
North-central Arizona may not be the most obvious fishing destination, but this stocked farm is a fun way to spend a few hours if you’re so inclined. Anglers young and old almost always enjoy a sure catch, and you can rent a cane pole here with a hook and bait for $1. There’s no charge if your catch is under 8 inches; above that it’s $8 to $13, depending on length. The real bargain is that the staff will clean and pack your fish for 50¢ each. | 3500 N. AZ 89A, 3 miles north of Sedona, Oak Creek Canyon | 928/282–5799 | www.sedonarainbowtroutfarm.com | $1, includes fishing pole and bait | Daily 9–5.

Golf

Oak Creek Country Club.
This semiprivate 18-hole, par-72 course was designed by the father-son team of Robert Trent Jones Sr. and Robert Trent Jones Jr. It is a traditional, rather than desert, course with long, tree-lined fairways and slightly elevated greens amid lovely red-rock views. Providing challenges for beginner through advanced golfers, this course is described as “player-friendly.” It’s budget-friendly, too, in the afternoons: tee off after 2:30 pm and the greens fee is only $49. | 690 Bell Rock Blvd., Village of Oak Creek | 928/284–1660 | www.oakcreekcountryclub.com | $99; $79 after 1; $49 after 2:30 | 18 holes, 6824 yards, par 72.

Fodor’s Choice | Sedona Golf Resort.
A gorgeous course, Sedona Golf Resort was designed by Gary Panks to take advantage of the many changes in elevation and scenery. Golf courses are a dime a dozen in Arizona, but this one is regarded as one of the best in the state. Don’t let the stunning views around every bend distract your focus from the undulating greens and fairways. The restaurant—with panoramic red-rock vistas—serves breakfast and lunch daily. | 35 Ridge Trail Dr., Village of Oak Creek | 928/284–9355, 877/733–6630 | www.sedonagolfresort.com | $100; $70 after 2; $55 after 3:30 | 18 holes, 6646 yards, par 71.

Hiking and Backpacking

Any backpacking trip in the Red Rock–Secret Mountain Wilderness near Sedona guarantees stunning vistas, otherworldly rock formations, and Zen-like serenity, but little water, so pack a good supply. TIP Plan your trip for spring or fall: summer brings 100°F heat and sudden thunderstorms that flood canyons without warning. Most individual trails in the wilderness are too short for anything longer than an overnighter, but several trails can be linked up to form a memorable multiday trip. Contact Coconino National Forest’s Red Rock Ranger District in Sedona for full details.

Coconino National Forest–Red Rock Ranger District.
For free detailed maps, hiking advice, and information on campgrounds, contact the rangers of the Coconino National Forest. Ask here or at your hotel for directions to trailheads for Doe’s Mountain (an easy ascent, with many switchbacks), Loy Canyon, Devil’s Kitchen, and Long Canyon. | 8375 AZ 179, Village of Oak Creek | 928/203–7500 | www.redrockcountry.org | Daily 9–4:30.

West Fork Trail.
Among the paths in Coconino National Forest, the popular West Fork Trail traverses Oak Creek Canyon for a 3-mile hike. A walk through the woods between sheer red-rock walls and a dip in the stream make a great summer combo. The trailhead is about 3 miles north of Slide Rock State Park. | Trailhead: AZ 89A, 9½ miles north of Sedona | Sedona.

Horseback Riding

M Diamond Ranch.
Ride on horseback through varied terrain for views of red rocks and the Verde Valley with wranglers at the M Diamond Ranch. One- and two-hour trail rides, as well as cowboy cookouts, are offered, starting at $75 ($55 for children). | 3255 FR 618 | Verde | 928/300–6466 | www.sedonahorsebackrides.com.

Trail Horse Adventures.
Among the tour options at Trail Horse Adventures are a midday ride with picnic and a ride along the Verde River to Native American cliff dwellings. Rides range from $65 for an hour to $125 for a three-hour ride with lunch. | 675 Dead Horse Ranch Rd., Dead Horse Ranch State Park | Cottonwood | 928/634–5276, 866/958–7245 | www.trailhorseadventures.com.

Jeep Tours

Several jeep-tour operators headquartered along Sedona’s main Uptown drag conduct excursions, some focusing on geology, some on astronomy, some on vortexes, some on all three. You can even find a combination jeep tour and horseback ride. Prices start at about $60 per person for two hours and go upward of $100 per person for four hours. Although all the excursions are safe, many aren’t for those who dislike heights or bumps.

A Day in the West.
With this tour operator, you can go to all the prime spots and combine a jeep tour with a horseback ride or local wine tasting. | 928/282–4320, 800/973–3662 | www.adayinthewest.com.

Pink Jeep Tours.
The ubiquitous Pink Jeep Tours are a popular choice for driving through the red rocks. | 204 N. AZ 89A, Uptown | 800/873–3662 | www.pinkjeeptours.com.

Red Rock Western Jeep Tours.
This reliable operator spins some good cowboy tales on its jeep tours. | 301 N. AZ 89A, Uptown | 928/282–6667, 800/848–7728 | www.redrockjeep.com.

Mountain Biking

Given the red-rock splendor, challenging terrain, miles of single track, and mild weather, you might think Sedona would be a mountain-biking destination on the order of Moab or Durango. Inexplicably, you won’t find the Lycra-clad throngs patronizing pasta bars or throwing back microbrews on the Uptown mall, but all the better for you: the mountain-biking culture remains fervent but low-key. A few excellent, strategically located bike shops can outfit you and give advice.

As a general rule, mountain bikes are allowed on all trails and jeep paths unless designated as wilderness or private property. The rolling terrain, which switches between serpentine trails of buff red clay and mounds of slickrock, has few sustained climbs, but be careful of blind drop-offs that often step down several feet in unexpected places. The thorny trailside flora makes carrying extra inner tubes a must, and an inner-tube sealant is a good idea, too. If you plan to ride for several hours, pack a gallon of water and start early in the morning on hot days. Shade is rare, and with the exception of (nonpotable) Oak Creek, water is nonexistent.

Bell Rock Pathway.
For the casual rider, Bell Rock Pathway is a scenic and easy ride traveling 3 miles through some of the most breathtaking scenery in red-rock country. Several single-track trails spur off this one, making it a good starting point for many other rides in Sedona. | Trailhead: 5 miles south of Sedona on AZ 179 | Sedona.

Fodor’s Choice | Broken Arrow–Submarine Rock Trail.
There’s good reason why the Broken Arrow–Submarine Rock Trail is perhaps the most popular single-track loop in the area. The 10-mile trail is a heady mixture of prime terrain and scenery following slickrock and twisty trails up to Chicken Point, a sandstone terrace overlooking colorful buttes. The trail continues as a bumpy romp through washes, almost all downhill. Be wary of blind drop-offs in this section. It wouldn’t be overly cautious to scout any parts of the trail that look sketchy. | Trailhead: 2 miles south of Sedona, off AZ 179; take Morgan Rd. to Broken Arrow Trail parking lot | Sedona.

Tours and Outfitters

Absolute Bikes.
Close to several biking trails, Absolute Bikes is a good source for rentals, equipment, and advice on trails and conditions. | 6101 AZ 179, Village of Oak Creek | 928/284–1242 | www.absolutebikes.net.

Sedona Bike and Bean.
About a block south of Bell Rock Pathway, the friendly folks at Bike and Bean offer rentals, equipment, trail maps, and their own blend of coffee. | 75 Bell Rock Plaza, at AZ 179 | Village of Oak Creek | 928/284–0210 | www.bike-bean.com.

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