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The ASARCO Mineral Discovery Center | Titan Missile Museum | Madera Canyon | Tubac | Tumacácori National Historic Park
Interstate 19 heads south from Tucson through Tubac to Nogales at the border of Mexico, carrying with it history buffs, bird-watchers, hikers, art enthusiasts, duffers, and shoppers. The road roughly follows the Camino Real (King’s Road), which the conquistadors and missionaries traveled from Mexico up to what was once the northernmost portion of New Spain.
The ASARCO Mineral Discovery Center
15 miles south of Tucson off I–19.
The American Smelting and Refining Company (abbreviated as ASARCO) gives visitors a glimpse not only of a vast, open-pit mine but also of the complex processes involved in extracting minerals like copper from the earth.
Getting Here and Around
From Interstate 19 south take Exit 80. Turn right (west) onto Pima Mine Road and the entrance will be almost immediately on your left.
Exploring
ASARCO Mineral Discovery Center.
This mining operations center elucidates the importance of mining to everyday life. Exhibits include a walk-through model of an ore crusher, video stations that explain refining processes, and a film about how minerals are actually extracted. The big draw, though, is the yawning open pit of the Mission Mine, some 2 miles long and 1¾ miles wide because so much earth has to be torn up to extract the 1% that is copper. It’s impressive, but doesn’t bolster the case the center tries to make about how environmentally conscious mining has become. Tours of the pit take a little over an hour; the last one starts at 3:30. In summer, pit mine tours are only offered on Saturday. | 1421 W. Pima Mine Rd. | 520/625–8233 | www.mineraldiscovery.com | $9 | Tues.–Sat. 9–5.
Titan Missile Museum
25 miles south of Tucson.
The Titan Missile Museum houses one of the 54 missile silos built around the country during the “cold war” of the 1960s, in case the United States needed to deploy nuclear bombs. A guided tour gives you a sense of the military mindset during this era.
Getting Here and Around
From Interstate 19, take Exit 69 (Duval Mine Road) approximately 1 mile west to the museum.
Exploring
Titan Missile Museum.
Now a National Historic Landmark, the Titan Missile Museum makes for a sobering visit. During the Cold War, Tucson was ringed by 18 of the 54 Titan II missiles maintained in the United States. After the SALT II treaty with the Soviet Union was signed in 1979, this was the only missile-launch site left intact.
Guided tours, running every hour on the hour, last about an hour and take you down 55 steps into the command post, where a ground crew of four lived and waited. Among the sights is the 103-foot, 165-ton, two-stage liquid-fuel rocket. Now empty, it originally held a nuclear warhead with 214 times the explosive power of the bomb that destroyed Hiroshima. | 1580 W. Duval Mine Rd., off I–19, Exit 69 | Green Valley | 520/625–7736 | www.titanmissilemuseum.org | $9.50 | Daily 9–5; last tour departs at 4.
Madera Canyon
61½ miles southeast of Tucson.
This prime hiking and birding area south of Tucson is where the Coronado National Forest meets the Santa Rita Mountains. Higher elevations and thick pine cover make it especially popular with Tucsonans looking to escape the summer heat.
Getting Here and Around
From Interstate 19, take Exit 63 (Continental Road) east for about a mile, then turn right (southeast) on White House Canyon Road for 12½ miles (it turns into Madera Canyon Road).
Exploring
Madera Canyon.
With approximately 200 miles of scenic trails, the recreation area of Madera Canyon—which includes Mount Wrightson, the highest peak in southern Arizona, at 9,453 feet—is a haven for hikers and birders. Trails vary from a steep trek up Mount Baldy to a paved, wheelchair-accessible path. Birders flock here year-round; about 400 avian species have been spotted in the area.
There are picnic tables and ramadas near the parking area, and camping is available for $10 per night on a first-come, first-served basis (the 13 campsites have drinking water and restrooms, but no showers or electric hookups). The Santa Rita Lodge, with charming cabins and a gift shop, is also here. | Madera Canyon Rd. | 520/281–2296 for Nogales Ranger District office | www.fs.usda.gov/coronado | $5 | Daily.
Tubac
45 miles south of Tucson at Exit 40 off I–19.
Established in 1726, Tubac is the site of the first European settlement in Arizona. A year after the Pima Indian uprising in 1751, a military garrison was established here to protect Spanish settlers, missionaries, and peaceful Native American converts of the nearby Tumacácori Mission. It was from here that Juan Bautista de Anza led 240 colonists across the desert—the expedition resulted in the founding of San Francisco in 1776. In 1860 Tubac was the largest town in Arizona. Today, the quiet little town is a popular art colony. More than 80 shops sell such crafts as carved wooden furniture, hand-thrown pottery, delicately painted tiles, and silkscreen fabrics (many shops are closed Monday). You can also find Mexican pottery and trinkets without having to cross the border. The annual Tubac Festival of the Arts has been held in February for more than 50 years.
Getting Here and Around
When you exit Interstate 19 at Tubac Road, signs will point you east into Tubac village. There’s plenty of free parking, and you can pick up a free map of the village at Tubac Chamber of Commerce and at most of the shops.
Essentials
Visitor Information
Tubac Chamber of Commerce. | 12B Tubac Rd. | 520/398–2704 | www.tubacaz.com.
Exploring
Tubac Presidio Park and Museum.
There’s an archaeological display of portions of the original 1752 fort at this museum, run by volunteers of the Tubac Historical Society. In addition to the visitor center and the adjoining museum, which has detailed exhibits on the history of the early colony, the park includes a rowhouse built in 1897 and Tubac’s well-preserved 1885 schoolhouse. | 1 Burruel St. | 520/398–2252 | www.tubacpresidio.org | $5 | Daily 9–5.
Where to Eat and Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Elvira’s.
$$ | MEXICAN | This colorful and deservedly popular restaurant—a fixture in Nogales, Mexico, since 1927—moved across the border and now serves delicious Sonoran classics in Tubac village. Try one of the five Chicken moles, ranging from sweet to nutty to spicy, and you’ll know why Chef Ruben has such a devoted following. Chiles rellenos, enchiladas, and heartier steak and fish selections don’t disappoint either. Save room for the divine flan, a creamier version of traditional Mexican custard with caramel sauce. Live music on Friday and Saturday nights adds festivity to this gem of an eatery in a quiet little town. | Average main: $18 | 2221 E. Frontage Rd. | 520/398–9421 | www.elvirasrestaurant.com | No credit cards | Closed Mon. No dinner Sun.
Tubac Deli & Coffee Co.
$ | AMERICAN | Smack in the middle of Tubac village, this is a very convenient and friendly place to “set awhile” with the locals. With freshly roasted coffee, breakfast pastries, and generous sandwiches, salads, and soups, this pleasant little eatery is open daily from 6:30 am until 5 pm. | Average main: $8 | 6 Plaza Rd. | 520/398–3330 | www.tubacdeli.com.
Amado Territory Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | Although this quiet, friendly B&B is directly off the highway frontage road, it feels worlds away. The inn resembles a late-19th-century ranch house, but its soaring ceiling and contemporary Southwestern art make the interior distinctly modern. Western-themed rooms have a view of the gardens and the Santa Rita Mountains. A full, hot breakfast, which usually includes pancakes, and afternoon wine and cheese are included. Pros: good breakfast; pleasant garden areas for strolling. Cons: only the 3-bedroom Hacienda has a TV; a short drive to Tubac village. | Rooms from: $105 | 3001 E. Frontage Rd., off I–19, Exit 48 | Amado | 520/398–8684 | www.amadoterritoryinn.com | 9 rooms, 1 3-bedroom house | Breakfast.
Tubac Country Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | Down the lane from the shops and eateries of Tubac village is this charming two-story inn. Tastefully decorated in contemporary Southwest style, the rooms are more like suites, with sitting areas and kitchenettes, and the common outdoor space is a tranquil desert flower garden with willow chairs and a Mexican fireplace. Each morning a breakfast basket of muffins, cheeses, fruits, and juice is brought to your door. Pros: rooms are spacious, comfortably furnished, and have separate entrances; in Tubac village. Cons: no B&B camaraderie here—it feels more like you’re staying in someone’s guest cottage. | Rooms from: $135 | 13 Burruel St. | 520/398–3178 | www.tubaccountryinn.com | 5 rooms | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Hiking
Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail.
You can tread the same road as the conquistadors: the first 4½ miles of the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail from Tumacácori to Tubac were dedicated in 1992. You’ll have to cross the Santa Cruz River—which is usually low—three times to complete the hike, and the path is rather sandy, but it’s a pleasant journey along the tree-shaded banks of the river. Moderate. | 415/623–2344 | www.nps.gov/juba.
Tumacácori National Historic Park
3 miles south of Tubac.
Father Kino established the Tumacácori Mission in 1791, but the Jesuits didn’t build a church here until 60 years later. Walk through the mission ruins and visit the main attraction, the pretty Mission of San Jose de Tumacácori, built by the Franciscans around 1799–1803. The historic Anza Trail runs through the park.
Getting Here and Around
Take Exit 29 off Interstate 19 and follow signs half a mile to the park (from Tucson, go under the highway to East Frontage Road and turn left).
Exploring
Tumacácori National Historic Park.
Encompassing mission ruins, the church of San Jose de Tumacácori, and a portion of the Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail, this park became a national monument in 1908. Guided tours of the beautiful church and grounds are available daily at 11 and 2, October through March, and information on both the mission and the historic trail is available at the visitor center. A small museum displays some of the mission’s artifacts, and often during winter and spring months fresh tortillas are made on a wood-fire stove in the courtyard. Creative educational programs, such as full-moon tours, bird walks, and a Junior Ranger Program, are offered throughout the year (call to check schedule). An annual fiesta the first weekend of December has arts and crafts and food booths. | 1891 E. Frontage Rd., off I–19, Exit 29 | Tumacácori | 520/377–5060 | www.nps.gov/tuma | $3 | Daily 9–5.
En Route: Santa Cruz Chili & Spice Co.
Across the street from the Tumacácori National Historic Park, the Santa Cruz Spice Factory packs and sells 240 varieties of herbs and spices, including the owner’s home-grown chili powders and pastes, if you want to take a taste of the Southwest home. A little museum, tasting area, and store are open Monday through Saturday. | 1868 E. Frontage Rd. | Tumacácori | 520/398–2591 | www.santacruzchili.com | Closed Sun.
Where to Stay
Esplendor Resort at Rio Rico.
$ | RESORT | This secluded hotel and conference center that appeals to golfers has a historic, rather than hokey, Western feel, with vistas of open prairie and an elongated bar reminiscent of a Tombstone saloon. Some rooms continue the theme with cowhide headboards, tepee bed canopies, or whimsical bordello furnishings. Most guests come for excellent golf, splendid views, and privacy. Pros: great golf and tennis; a sense of leaving the world behind; 15-minute drive to Mexico. Cons: somewhat isolated; golf and tennis are across the highway (shuttle bus provided). | Rooms from: $89 | 1069 Camino Caralampi, off I–19 at Rio Rico Rd. | Rio Rico | 520/281–1901, 800/288–4746 | www.esplendor-resort.com | 179 rooms | No meals.