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Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge | Kitt Peak National Observatory | Sells | Ajo | Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument | Yuma | Imperial National Wildlife Refuge
The turbulent history of the West is writ large in this now-sleepy part of Arizona. It’s home to the Tohono O’odham Indian Reservation—the largest in the country after the Navajo Nation’s—and towns such as Ajo—created (and almost undone) by the copper-mining industry—and Nogales, along the U.S.–Mexico border. Yuma, abutting the California border, was a major crossing point of the Colorado River as far back as the time of the conquistadors.
These days people mostly travel through Sells, Ajo, and Yuma en route to the closest beaches. During the school year, especially on warm weekends and semester breaks, the 130-mile route from Tucson to Ajo is busy with traffic headed southwest to Puerto Penasco (Rocky Point), Mexico, the closest access to the sea for Arizonans. All summer long, Interstate 8 takes heat-weary Tucsonans and Phoenicians to San Diego, California; Yuma is the midpoint.
Natural attractions are a lure in this starkly scenic region: Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument provides trails for desert hikers and birders, and Buenos Aires and Imperial wildlife refuges—homes to many unusual species—are important destinations for birders and other nature-watchers. Much of the time, however, your only companions will be the low-lying scrub and cactus, and the mesquite, ironwood, and palo verde trees.
Border Town Safety: Nogales, Mexico
Nogales used to draw tourists and locals, who would park on the American side and walk across the border. Though shopping bargains and cheap bars are enticing, safety issues have changed in recent years.
TIP Drug-related violence in Mexico—especially near the U.S. border—has increased to the point that the U.S. government strongly discourages travel in and around Mexico border towns. Check www.state.gov/travel for updates and details.
If you decide to cross, bring your passport (it’s required), remain alert, and stay in the central area on Avenida Obregón, which begins a few blocks west of the border entrance and runs north–south.
Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge
66 miles southwest of Tucson.
Encircled by seven mountain ranges in the Altar Valley, remote Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge is the only place in the United States where the Sonoran-savanna grasslands that once pervaded this region can still be seen. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service oversees this 115,000-acre preserve, managing programs to restore native grasses and protect endangered species such as the masked bobwhite quail. Birding and wildlife-viewing are popular here.
Getting Here and Around
From Tucson, take AZ 86 west 22 miles to AZ 286; go south 40 miles to mile marker 8, and it’s another 3 miles east to the preserve headquarters.
Exploring
Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge.
Bird-watchers consider Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge unique because it’s the only place in the United States where they can see a “grand slam” (four species) of quail: Montezuma quail, Gambel’s quail, scaled quail, and masked bobwhite. If it rains, the 100-acre Aguirre Lake, 1½ miles north of the headquarters, attracts wading birds, shorebirds, and waterfowl—in all, more than 320 avian species have been spotted here. The quail share the turf with deer, coati, badgers, bobcats, and mountain lions. Touring options include a 10-mile auto tour; nature trails; a 3¾-mile guided hike in Brown Canyon (second and fourth Saturdays, or call to arrange other dates for private groups); a boardwalk through the marshes at Arivaca Cienega; and guided bird walks, also at Arivaca Cienega (November–April, Saturday at 8). Admission and guided bird walks are free; Brown Canyon hikes cost $5. Pick up maps at the visitor center. | AZ 286, at mile marker 7.5 | Sasabe | Turn off AZ 286 at mile marker 7.5, and drive into the refuge for 3 miles to arrive at Refuge Headquarters and Visitor Center | 520/823–4251 | www.fws.gov/refuge/buenos_aires | Free | Refuge daily 24 hrs. Visitor center: Sept.–May, daily 7:30–4; June–Aug., weekdays 7:30–4.
Kitt Peak National Observatory
70 miles northwest of Buenos Aires National Wildlife Refuge on AZ 286 to AZ 86, 56 miles southwest of Tucson.
Funded by the National Science Foundation and managed by a group of more than 20 universities, Kitt Peak National Observatory is on the Tohono O’odham Reservation. Kitt Peak scientists use the high-powered telescopes here to conduct vital solar research and observe distant galaxies; visitors can tour the facilities by day and view stellar happenings at the evening observation program.
Getting Here and Around
To reach Kitt Peak from Tucson, take Interstate 10 to Interstate 19 south, and then AZ 86. After 44 miles on AZ 86, turn left at the AZ 386 junction and follow the winding mountain road 12 miles up to the observatory. In inclement weather, contact the highway department to confirm that the road is open. To get to Sells (for the nearest food and gas) from the base of the mountain, it’s 20 miles west on AZ 86.
Exploring
Kitt Peak National Observatory.
After much discussion back in the late 1950s, tribal leaders of the Tohono O’odham nation agreed to share a small section of their 4,400-square-mile reservation with the National Science Foundation to house sophisticated research telescopes. Among these is the McMath-Pierce, the world’s largest solar telescope, which uses piped-in liquid coolant. From the visitors’ gallery you can see into the telescope’s light-path tunnel, which goes down hundreds of feet into the mountain.
The visitor center has exhibits on astronomy, information about the telescopes, and hour-long guided tours ($7.75 per person) that depart daily at 10, 11:30, and 1:30. Complimentary brochures enable you to take self-guided tours of the grounds, and there are picnic areas outside and below the observatory. The observatory sells snacks and drinks, which is good to know, because there are no restaurants (or gas stations, for that matter) within 20 miles of Kitt Peak. The observatory offers an outstanding nightly program for ages 8 and older ($49 per person); reservations are necessary. | AZ 386 | Pan Tak | 520/318–8726 | www.noao.edu/kpno | Free; tours and observatory programs extra | Visitor center daily 9–4.
Sells
32 miles southwest of Kitt Peak via AZ 386 to AZ 86.
The Tohono O’odham Reservation, the second largest in the United States, covers 4,400 square miles between Tucson and Ajo, stretching south to the Mexican border and north almost to the city of Casa Grande. To the south of Kitt Peak, the 7,730-foot Baboquivari Peak is considered sacred by the Tohono O’odham as the home of their deity, I’itoi (“elder brother”). Less than halfway between Tucson and Ajo, Sells—the tribal capital of the Tohono O’odham—is a good place to stop for gas or a soft drink. Much of the time there’s little to see or do in Sells, but in winter an annual rodeo and fair attract thousands of Native American visitors.
Getting Here and Around
If you’re traveling east or west along AZ 86, take the exit for the Sells Hospital to explore this tiny town, which consists of a few stores, offices, and a school (about a half mile from the highway). The Papago Cafe sits at the highway exit. To get into town, drive south past the hospital and go over the bridge.
Basha’s Deli & Bakery.
$ | SOUTHWESTERN | At the Sells Shopping Center, the good-size market Basha’s Deli & Bakery can supply all the makings for a picnic. | Average main: $7 | AZ 86 | 520/383–2546 | No credit cards.
Papago Cafe.
$ | SOUTHWESTERN | For traditional Indian and Mexican food like fry bread, tacos, and chili, try the Papago Cafe, open weekdays breakfast through dinner, and Saturdays for breakfast and lunch only. | Average main: $9 | AZ 86, near Chevron Station | 520/383–3510 | No credit cards | Closed Sun. No dinner Sat.
Ajo
90 miles northwest of Sells on AZ 86.
“Ajo” (pronounced ah-ho) is Spanish for garlic, and some say the town got its name from the wild garlic that grows in the area. Others claim the word is a bastardization of the Indian word au-auho, referring to red paint derived from a local pigment.
For many years Ajo, like Bisbee, was a thriving Phelps Dodge company town. Copper mining had been attempted in the area in the late 19th century, but it wasn’t until the 1911 arrival of the Calumet & Arizona Mining Company that the region began to be developed profitably. Calumet and Phelps Dodge merged in 1935, and the huge pit mine produced millions of tons of copper until it closed in 1985. Nowadays Ajo is pretty sleepy: the town’s population of 4,000 has a median age of 51, and most visitors are on their way to or from Rocky Point, Mexico. At the center of town is a sparkling white Spanish-style plaza. The shops and restaurants that line the plaza’s covered arcade today are rather modest. Unlike Bisbee, Ajo hasn’t yet drawn an artistic crowd—or the upscale boutiques and eateries that tend to follow. Chain stores and fast food haven’t made a beeline here either—you’ll find only one Dairy Queen and a Pizza Hut in this remote desert hamlet.
Getting Here and Around
As you drive into Ajo on AZ 85, you’ll see the small historical plaza, with a few shops, a library, and the visitor center immediately on your right. After jogging west for several blocks and changing its name three times, the highway turns north again, becomes 2nd Avenue, and takes you out of town, past the Cabeza Prieta Wildlife Refuge and north to Gila Bend.
Exploring
Cabeza Prieta National Wildlife Refuge.
This 860,000-acre national wildlife refuge, about 5 miles (a 10-minute drive) from Ajo, was established in 1939 as a preserve for endangered bighorn sheep and other Sonoran Desert wildlife, including the long-nosed bat and the Sonoran pronghorn deer, the fastest mammal in North America. People come here for hiking, photography, and primitive desert camping. A free permit, essentially a “hold-harmless” agreement, is required to enter, and only those with four-wheel drive, high-clearance vehicles, or all-terrain vehicles—needed to traverse the rugged terrain—can obtain one from the refuge’s visitor center, which is in Ajo, about a mile north of the downtown plaza. | 1611 N. 2nd Ave., at North St. | 520/387–6483 | www.fws.gov/refuge/cabeza_prieta | Free | Visitor center weekdays 8–4, refuge daily dawn–dusk.
New Cornelia Open Pit Mine Lookout Point.
You get an expansive view of Ajo’s ugly gash of an open-pit mine, almost 2 miles wide, from the New Cornelia Open Pit Mine Lookout Point. Some of the abandoned equipment remains in the pit, and mining operations are diagrammed at the volunteer-run visitor center, where there’s a 30-minute film about mining. The lookout point is always “open,” but the visitor center’s hours are sporadic. The mine is about a mile southwest of the plaza; take La Mina Road or Estrella Road to Indian Village Road. | Indian Village Rd. | 520/387–7742 | Free | Typically Wed.–Sat. 11–3, but call ahead.
Where to Eat and Stay
100 Estrella.
$ | SOUTHWESTERN | It can be hard to decide which burger to order from the dozen or so on the menu here, including the popular bacon and avocado, the “bleu cheese,” and the free-range bison. If you’re brave enough for something spicier, try “Summer in Ajo”—a beef patty with jalapeños, green chiles, onions, and pepperjack cheese. Herbivores can find veggie burgers, organic veggie pizzas, and salads with tepary beans, a Native American legume loaded with protein, fiber, and flavor. The bar at this colorful eatery offers 10 beers on draft and a good selection of bottled brews. | Average main: $10 | 100 Estrella Ave. | 520/387–3110 | No credit cards | Closed Jul. and Aug., and weekends Apr.–Dec.
The Guest House Inn.
$ | B&B/INN | Built in 1925 to accommodate visiting Phelps Dodge VIPs, this lodging is a favorite for birders: guests can head out early to nearby Organ Pipe National Monument, or just sit on the patio and watch the quail, cactus wrens, and other warblers that fly in to visit. Rooms, all with small refrigerators and microwaves, are furnished in various Southwestern styles, from light Santa Fe to rich Spanish colonial. Pros: pleasant hosts; well-preserved home. Cons: may be a little sedate for some. | Rooms from: $89 | 700 Guest House Rd. | 520/387–6133 | www.guesthouseinn.biz | 4 rooms | Breakfast.
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument
32 miles southwest of Ajo on AZ 86 to AZ 85.
The largest habitat north of the border for organ pipe cacti (the beautiful multiarmed cousins of the saguaro) is off the beaten path unless you’re driving to Puerto Penasco, Mexico. But it’s a worthwhile destination to view large groves of this desert flora, fairly common in Mexico but rare in the United States.
Getting Here
From Ajo, drive to Why and take AZ 85 south for 22 miles to reach the visitor center.
Safety and Precautions
Be aware that Organ Pipe continues to be an illegal-border-crossing hot spot. Migrant workers and drug traffickers cross from Mexico under the cover of darkness. You probably won’t encounter this type of situation, but it is possible, even with the copious fencing along the U.S.–Mexico border. Park officials emphasize that tourists only occasionally have been the victims of isolated property crimes—primarily theft of personal items from parked cars. Visitors are advised by rangers to keep valuables locked and out of plain view and not to initiate contact with groups of strangers whom they may encounter on hiking trails.
Exploring
Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument.
This designated part of the Sonoran Desert preserves more than two dozen species of cacti, including the park’s namesake, as well as other desert plants and animals. Because organ pipe cactus tend to grow on the warmer, usually south-facing slopes, you’ll get the best views by taking either the 21-mile scenic loop Ajo Mountain Drive (a one-way, winding dirt road) or Puerto Blanco Drive, a 51-mile loop road. Ranger-led talks and guided van tours are offered January through April. Check with rangers for the schedule of “trailhead drops,” which enable hikers to leave their cars in more populated areas. A campground at the monument has 208 RV (no hookups) and tent sites ($12) available on a first-come, first-served basis (though group campsites can be reserved). Facilities include a dump station with potable water, solar-heated showers, flush toilets, grills, and picnic tables. | 10 Organ Pipe Dr. | Ajo | 520/387–6849 | www.nps.gov/orpi | $8 per vehicle | Visitor center daily 8:30–4:30.
Yuma
232 miles northwest of Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument, 170 miles northwest of Ajo.
Today many people think of Yuma as a convenient stop for gas and a meal between Phoenix or Tucson and San Diego. While this is surely true, the town boasts some historic sites and agricultural tours (Yuma is the lettuce capital of the U.S.) that may prompt you to pause here a bit longer.
It’s difficult to imagine the lower Colorado River, now dammed and bridged, as either a barrier or a means of transportation, but until the early part of the 20th century this section of the great waterway was a force to contend with. Records show that since at least 1540 the Spanish were using Yuma (then the site of a Quechan Indian village) as a ford across a relatively shallow stretch of the Colorado.
Three centuries later, the advent of the shallow-draft steamboat made the settlement a point of entry for fortune seekers heading through the Gulf of California to mining sites in eastern Arizona. Fort Yuma was established in 1850 to guard against Indian attacks, and by 1873 the town was a county seat, a U.S. port of entry, and an army depot.
During World War II, the Yuma Proving Ground was used to train bomber pilots, and General Patton readied some of his desert war forces for battle at secret areas in the city. Many who served here during the war returned to Yuma to retire, and the city’s population swells during the winter months with retirees from cold climates who park their homes on wheels at one of the many RV communities. One fact may explain this: according to National Weather Service statistics, Yuma is the sunniest city in the United States.
Getting Here and Around
AZ 8 runs through Yuma, which is approximately halfway between Casa Grande and the California coast. Most of the interesting historic sites are at the north end of town. Stop in at the Yuma Convention and Visitors Bureau, on the grounds of Quartermaster Depot State Park, and pick up a walking-tour guide to the historic downtown area.
Yuma is accessible by air through US Airways, recently merged with American Airlines, which has direct flights between Yuma and Phoenix.
Yuma City Cab has the best taxi service in Yuma.
Amtrak trains run three times a week from Tucson west to Yuma (get your ticket or make a reservation beforehand as there’s no kiosk or ticket window).
Essentials
Air Contacts
US Airways. | 800/428–4322 | www.usairways.com.
Yuma International Airport (YUM). | 928/726–5882 | www.yumaairport.com.
Taxi Contacts
Yuma City Cab. | 928/783–4444.
Train Contacts
Yuma train station. | 281 Gila St. | www.amtrak.com.
Visitor Information
Yuma Convention and Visitors Bureau. | 201 N. 4th Ave., at Quartermaster Depot Park | 928/783–0071, 800/293–0071 | www.visityuma.com.
Exploring
Sanguinetti House Museum.
This adobe-style museum, run by the Arizona Historical Society, was built around 1870 by merchant E.F. Sanguinetti; it exhibits artifacts from Yuma’s territorial days and details the military presence in the area. If you’re dining at the Garden Café this makes for an interesting stop, but it’s not worth a visit on its own, especially if you plan on visiting the more popular Quartermaster Depot State Historic Park. | 240 S. Madison Ave. | 928/782–1841 | www.arizonahistoricalsociety.org | $5 | Tues.–Sat. 10–4.
Yuma Quartermaster Depot State Historic Park.
On the other side of the river from Fort Yuma, the Civil War–period quartermaster depot resupplied army posts to the north and east and served as a distribution point for steamboat freight headed overland to Arizona forts. The 1853 home of riverboat captain G. A. Johnson is the depot’s earliest building and the centerpiece of Quartermaster Depot State Historic Park. The residence also served as a weather bureau and home for customs agents, among other functions, and the self-guided tour through the house provides a complete history. Also on display are antique surreys and more “modern” modes of transportation like a 1931 Model A Ford pickup. You can visit a re-creation of the Commanding Officer’s Quarters, complete with period furnishings. The Yuma Visitors Bureau and a pie shop are also here. | 201 N. 4th Ave., between 1st St. and I–8 | 928/783–0071 | $4 | Nov.–Apr., daily 9–4:30; May–Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9–4:30.
Yuma Territorial Prison State Historic Park.
The most notorious tourist sight in town is now an Arizona state historic park, but it was built for the most part by the convicts who were incarcerated here from 1876 until 1909, when the prison outgrew its location. The hilly site on the Colorado River, chosen for security purposes, precluded further expansion.
Visitors gazing today at the tiny cells that held six inmates each, often in 115°F heat, are likely to be appalled, but the prison—dubbed “the Country Club of the Colorado” by locals—was considered a model of enlightenment by turn-of-the-20th-century standards: in an era when beatings were common, the only punishments meted out here were solitary confinement and assignment to a dark cell. The complex housed a hospital as well as Yuma’s only public library, where the 25¢ that visitors paid for a prison tour financed the acquisition of new books.
The 3,069 prisoners who served time at what was then the territory’s only prison included men and women from 21 different countries. They came from all social classes and were sent up for everything from armed robbery and murder to polygamy. R. L. McDonald, incarcerated for forgery, had been the superintendent of the Phoenix public school system. Chosen as the prison bookkeeper, he absconded with $130 of the inmates’ money when he was released.
The mess hall opened as a museum in 1940, and the entire prison complex was designated a state historic park in 1961. | 1 Prison Hill Rd., off I–8, Exit 1 | 928/783–4771 | www.yumaprison.org | $6 | Oct.–May, daily 9–5; June–Sept., Thurs.–Mon. 9–5.
Where to Eat
The Garden Café.
$ | CAFÉ | Before or after a visit to the Sanguinetti House Museum, this adjoining café is a good place to stop for breakfast or lunch. The charming dining spot features lush gardens and aviaries on the outdoor patio, historical photos on the walls, and a menu of homemade salads, soups, and sandwiches. Favorites include the quiche, served with homemade fruit bread, and the tortilla soup. Breakfasts are top-notch, too. One of the best times to visit is Sunday brunch—complete with carne asada, tortillas, potatoes, scrambled eggs, a layered ham-and-egg strata, breakfast meats, fruit, and dessert. | Average main: $11 | 250 S. Madison Ave. | 928/783–1491 | www.gardencafeyuma.com | Closed Mon., and June–Sept. No dinner | Reservations not accepted.
La Fonda.
$ | MEXICAN | A Yuma institution, La Fonda opened as a tortilla factory in 1940, then added a colorful restaurant onto the original building in 1982; locals have been enjoying the carne asada, pollo asado, and chiles rellenos here ever since. Only canola oil is used (not lard), and all the sauces and marinades are made fresh, as are the corn tortillas, which many say are the best in town. Save room for the homemade desserts—the flan and fried ice cream are fabulous. Open for breakfast (served all day), lunch, and early dinner, La Fonda closes at 8 so the employees can go home to their families. | Average main: $10 | 1095 S. 3rd Ave. | 928/783–6902 | www.lafondarestaurantandtortillafactory.com | No credit cards | Closed Sun.
Lutes Casino.
$ | SOUTHWESTERN | Packed with locals at lunchtime, this large, funky restaurant and bar claims to be the oldest pool hall and domino parlor in Arizona. It’s a great place for a burger and a brew. The “Especial” combines a cheeseburger and a hot dog and adds a generous dollop of Lutes’s “special sauce.” For dinner, dine early on weeknights: Monday through Thursday it shutters at 8, Sunday at 6. | Average main: $5 | 221 S. Main St. | 928/782–2192 | www.lutescasino.com.
River City Grill.
$$$ | AMERICAN | This hip downtown restaurant is a favorite dining spot for locals and visitors. It gets a bit loud on weekend nights, but the camaraderie of diners is well worth it. Owners Nan and Tony Bain dish out a medley of flavors drawing on Mediterranean, Pacific Rim, Indian, and Caribbean influences. For starters you can sample everything from Vietnamese spring rolls to curried mussels. Entrées include pistachio-crusted salmon, rack of lamb, and a sizeable selection of vegetarian dishes like ricotta-and-spinach ravioli and coconut curry veggies. | Average main: $22 | 600 W. 3rd St. | 928/782–7988 | www.rivercitygrillyuma.com | No lunch Sun.
Where to Stay
Coronado Motor Hotel.
$ | HOTEL | Built in 1938, this Spanish tile–roofed motor hotel has been well cared for and was where Bob Hope used to stay during World War II, when he entertained the gunnery troops training in Yuma. See an impressive collection of historical photos at the on-site Yuma Landing Restaurant & Lounge. The updated rooms all have pillow-top beds, flat-screen TVs, refrigerators, and microwaves. Pros: convenient location near AZ 8 and within a short walk from the historic downtown area; retro property (park right outside your room); full breakfast at restaurant. Cons: some highway noise in rooms. | Rooms from: $99 | 233 S. 4th Ave. | 928/783–4453, 877/234–5567 | www.coronadomotorhotel.com | 86 rooms | Breakfast.
Hilton Garden Inn Yuma-Pivot Point.
$ | HOTEL | One of the newer hotels in town, the Hilton Garden Inn Yuma caters to families and business travelers equally, with well-equipped rooms, a pleasant pool area, and convenience to historic sights, the river park, and the highway. The Quartermaster Depot State Park is right next door, or you can walk or run on the 3-mile path alongside the Colorado River. Breakfast is available for an additional fee. Pros: comfortable rooms; pool, hot tub, and gym; easy walk to historic Old Town area. Cons: generic property. | Rooms from: $109 | 310 N. Madison Ave. | 928/783–1500 | www.hiltongardeninn.com | No credit cards | 150 rooms | No meals.
Shopping
Art studios, antiques shops, and specialty boutiques have taken advantage of downtown Yuma’s facelift. The town’s largest shopping center, Yuma Palms, sits just to the east side of U.S. 8 (at the 16th Street exit).
Basket Creations/Bard Date Company.
The retail outlet of the Bard Date Company is a great place to sample and purchase all grades of the high-fiber, fat-free fruit grown in this region, including delicious date shakes. | 245 S. Main St. | 928/341–9966 | www.barddate.com | Closed Sun.
Colorado River Pottery.
This shop in the heart of Yuma features handcrafted bowls, vases, and dishes. | 67 W. 2nd St. | 928/343–0413 | www.coloradoriverpottery.com | Closed Sun.
Timeless Elegance.
A favorite antiques shop of locals and visitors, Timeless Elegance carries an eclectic selection of furniture, jewelry, and knickknacks. Bring your heirlooms here to sell or be appraised. | 315 S. Main St. | 928/329–6250 | Closed Sun. and Mon.
Imperial National Wildlife Refuge
30 miles north of Yuma on U.S. 95.
Something of an anomaly, this 25,765-acre wildlife refuge, created when the Imperial Dam was built, is home both to marshy-river species and creatures that inhabit the adjacent Sonoran desert—coyotes, bobcats, desert tortoises, and bighorn sheep. Mostly, though, it’s a major bird habitat, with waterfowl and shorebirds year-round and masses of migrating flocks during spring and fall.
Getting Here and Around
From Yuma, take U.S. 95 north and follow the signs to the refuge; it’s about a 40-minute drive. Between January and March look for army paratroopers taking practice jumps as you pass the Yuma Proving Ground.
Exploring
Imperial National Wildlife Refuge.
A guided, volunteer-led tour is a good way to visit this wildlife refuge and birder’s paradise. The peak seasons for bird-watching are spring and fall, when you can expect to see everything from pelicans and cormorants to Canada geese, snowy egrets, and some rarer species. Mid-October through May is the most pleasant time to visit, as it’s cooler and the ever-present mosquitoes are least active.
Canoes can be rented at Martinez Lake Marina, 3½ miles southeast of the refuge headquarters. Kids especially enjoy the 1¼-mile Painted Desert Nature Trail, which winds through the different levels of the Sonoran Desert. From an observation tower at the visitor center, you can see the river as well as the fields where migrating birds like to feed. You can sign up for guided walks (including evening walks when the moon is full) from November through March (call ahead). | 12812 Wildlife Way | Yuma | 928/783–3371 | www.fws.gov/refuges | Free | Visitor center: Nov.–Mar., weekdays 8–4:30, weekends 9–4:30; Apr.–Oct., only if volunteers are available (though the refuge is open).