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Bullhead City, Arizona, and Laughlin, Nevada | Hoover Dam | Lake Mead
Laughlin, Nevada, and Bullhead City, Arizona, are separated by a unique state line: the Colorado River. It’s an interesting juxtaposition of cities, with the casino lights of Laughlin sparkling across the river from Bullhead City. Sixty miles upstream, just southeast of Las Vegas, Boulder City is prim, languid, and full of historic neighborhoods, small businesses, parks, greenbelts—and not a single casino. Over the hill from town, enormous Hoover Dam blocks the Colorado River as it enters Black Canyon. Backed up behind the dam is incongruous, deep-blue Lake Mead, the focal point of water-based recreation for southern Nevada and northwestern Arizona and the major water supplier to seven Southwest states. The lake is ringed by miles of rugged desert country. Less than half a mile downstream from the Hoover Dam and Lake Mead, another engineering marvel, the Mike O’Callaghan–Pat Tillman Memorial Bridge, spans the river canyon and links northwestern Arizona to southeastern Nevada, dramatically reducing traffic across the dam.
Bullhead City, Arizona, and Laughlin, Nevada
35 miles west of Kingman via U.S. 93 to AZ 68.
Laughlin, Nevada, is separated from Arizona by the Colorado River. Its founder, Don Laughlin, bought an eight-room motel here in 1964 and basically built the town from scratch. By the early 1980s Laughlin’s Riverside Hotel-Casino was drawing gamblers and river rats from northwestern Arizona, southeastern California, and even southern Nevada, and his success attracted other casino operators. Today Laughlin is the state’s third major resort area, attracting more than 3 million visitors annually. The city fills up, especially in winter, with both retired travelers who spend at least part of winter in Arizona and a younger resort-loving crowd. The big picture windows overlooking the Colorado River lend a bright, airy, and open feeling unique to Laughlin casinos. Take a stroll along the river walk, then make the return trip by water taxi ($4 one way, $20 all day). Boating, using Jet Skis, fishing, and plain old wading are other options for enjoying the water.
Timing
The state of Nevada is in the Pacific Time zone, while Arizona is in the Mountain Time zone. Arizona doesn’t observe Daylight Saving Time, however. As a result, in summer Nevada and Arizona observe the same hours.
Getting Here and Around
To get to Laughlin from Kingman by car, follow U.S. 93 north for 3 miles, and then head west on AZ 68 for about 30 miles.
Mills Tours and Tri State Shuttle offer regular service from McCarran International Airport to Laughlin/Bullhead City. Reservations for all shuttle services are required.
Lucky Cab & Limo Company of Nevada services Laughlin and Bullhead City. For another approach in getting from casino to casino in Laughlin, hop aboard a water taxi with River Passage. Fares can be purchased at the casino dock ticket booths.
Laughlin Visitor Information Center.
| 1555 Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 800/452–8445 | www.visitlaughlin.com.
Exploring
Colorado River Museum.
Across the Laughlin Bridge, ¼ mile to the north on the Arizona side of the river, the Colorado River Museum displays the rich past of the tristate region where Nevada, Arizona, and California converge. Earnest volunteers guide you through the haphazard array of artifacts from the Mojave Indian tribe and the gold rush era in nearby Oatman. There are also exhibits on the building of Davis Dam, 18th-century explorer Fr. Francisco Garces and the experimental use of camels in the area by a pre–Civil War U.S. Army. You can also kick back in the museum’s video room and watch films of historical highlights. | 2201 Hwy. 68 | Bullhead City | 928/754–3399 | www.crhsmuseum.com | $2; children under 12 free | Sept.–June, Tues.–Sat. 10–4.
Searchlight Historic Museum.
Searchlight was once the biggest boomtown in southern Nevada, and some of its rich mining and railroad history is now compressed into a one-room museum inside the hamlet’s community center. There is recorded narration, a re-created assayer’s office, outdoor mining exhibit, and a display devoted to Clara Bow, the silent-screen star who lived near Searchlight after marrying screen cowboy Rex Bell. | 200 Michael Wendell Way | Searchlight | On way to Laughlin from Las Vegas on U.S. 95, turn off at Cottonwood Cove Rd., drive almost a mile to end of town and turn left on Michael Wendell Way | 702/297–1682 | www.searchlighthistoricmuseum.org | Free | Weekdays 9–5, Sat. 9–1.
Riverwalk Exploration Trail.
An extension of the Laughlin Riverwalk, this 2-mile hike begins on the west side of Casino Drive, crosses U.S. 95 by pedestrian bridge, and follows the Colorado River to Pyramid Canyon, where you’ll find spectacular views of Davis Dam. | Laughlin.
Off the Beaten Path: Christmas Tree Pass Road.
This dirt road provides a gorgeous drive through the Lake Mead National Recreation Area to an extensive petroglyph site in Grapevine Canyon. It runs 16 miles through a desert landscape sacred to several historical and modern native tribes. The pass cuts through the rough-cut Newberry Range near legendary Spirit Mountain, with several turnouts (but no designated hiking trails) before the Grapevine Canyon trail. It’s the kind of drive you imagined when you bought your SUV, but one that should make sedan drivers extremely wary. Sedans can take a shorter, easier route to the Grapevine Canyon trail by instead approaching from the Laughlin side (U.S. 163), which reduces the dirt-and-gravel drive to two of its easier miles. The Grapevine trail has a parking lot with latrines (no running water) and a ¼-mile walk to the springs, which served as the central gathering point for Yuman- and Numic-speaking tribes, whose messages are etched on the canyon boulders. It’s a more pleasant walk in the winter, when water is usually channeling through the canyon. The trail around the springs also offers a chance to see desert wildflowers and blooming cacti in spring and early summer. The drive reconnects with U.S. 163 15 miles northwest of Laughlin. | U.S. 163, 6 miles west of Davis Dam at mile marker 13 | Searchlight | www.nps.gov/lake/planyourvisit/hikegvine.htm.
Where to Eat
Bumbleberry Flats.
$$ | AMERICAN | Pioneer Hotel’s signature restaurant starts the day off right with hearty breakfasts that locals claim are the best in town; late risers don’t need to fret—breakfast is served all day. As the day progresses, the kitchen also serves up huge portions of comfort-food classics such as burgers, fried chicken, and meatloaf. | Average main: $14 | 2200 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–2442 | www.pioneerlaughlin.com.
Pints Brewery and Sports Bar.
$$ | AMERICAN | Laughlin’s only microbrewery pumps out hundreds of barrels each year. Sample the six choices of handcrafted ales and stout, all of which pair nicely with the wood-fired pizzas, hearty hamburgers, and sandwiches. The pub is open 24/7 for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. | Average main: $16 | Colorado Belle, 2100 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–4000 | www.coloradobelle.com.
The Range Steakhouse.
$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | This counterpart to the Harrah’s Las Vegas steak house of the same name is Laughlin’s most prestigious dining room. Some menu items change seasonally to augment standards such as seafood pasta, ahi tuna, lamb chops, and a surf-and-turf platter. Riverfront views and an extensive wine list add to the elegant experience. | Average main: $40 | Harrah’s, 2900 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/967–7999 | www.harrahslaughlin.com | No credit cards | No lunch.
Saltgrass Steakhouse.
$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | This kicked-back, Texas-style steak house serves up certified Angus beef, barbecued ribs, chicken, and seafood, rounded out by homemade soups, bread, and a generous selection of sides. Early bird dinner deals are available Monday through Thursday. | Average main: $25 | Golden Nugget, 2300 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–7153 | www.saltgrass.com | No lunch weekdays.
Where to Stay
Aquarius.
$ | RESORT | The guest lobby and casino of this hotel next to the Colorado River feature 1,250 slot and video-poker machines and a sports book. The spacious rooms have been refitted and dressed up in clean, bright colors. A mini-refrigerator comes with all suites and river-view rooms, but is $10 for other rooms if requested. An Outback Steakhouse is inside the casino. Pros: a 3,300-seat outdoor amphitheater hosts big-name entertainers; spacious buffet with Colorado River views. Cons: café opens out to casino noise and smoke; high hallway traffic; no free Wi-Fi in rooms, only public areas. | Rooms from: $65 | 1900 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–5111, 800/760–7046 | www.aquariuscasinoresort.com | 1,907 rooms, 82 suites | No meals.
Avi Resort & Casino.
$ | RESORT | The only tribally owned casino in Nevada is run by the Fort Mojave tribe, who once occupied the land, and has more of a relaxed, resort vibe than hotels on the Casino Drive strip. The 25,000-square-foot casino houses over 1,100 slot and video-poker machines. The biggest draw, however, is the private white-sand beach circling a cove built out from the main flow of the river; you can lounge or rent a watercraft from May through September. Pros: Sunday champagne brunch; 8-plex movie theater; KidQuest children’s center; free Wi-Fi in all rooms (a Laughlin rarity). Cons: location is 10 miles south of the main drag (though that might be a plus for some); room refrigerators available on first-come, first-served basis ($10 fee). | Rooms from: $75 | 10000 Aha Macav Pkwy. | Laughlin | 702/535–5555, 800/284–2946 | www.avicasino.com | 455 rooms, 29 spa suites | No meals.
Colorado Belle.
$ | RESORT | A Nevada anomaly—a riverboat casino that’s actually on a river—this 608-foot replica of a Mississippi paddle wheeler has a 65,000-square-foot gaming area, views of the Colorado River, and special events on its outdoor plaza. Rooms have 32-inch flat-screen TVs, and some have refrigerators. Pros: makes good use of its outdoor space; affordable stay. Cons: some of the riverfront rooms have noisier motel-style exterior entry; can be a hike to some areas of casino; fee for in-room Wi-Fi ($9.99 for 24 hours). | Rooms from: $60 | 2100 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | www.coloradobelle.com | No credit cards | 1,164 rooms, including 49 suites | No meals.
Don Laughlin’s Riverside Resort Hotel and Casino.
$ | RESORT | Town founder Don Laughlin still runs this northernmost joint himself. It’s a city within itself—bowling, movies, concerts, you name it—sprawling with piecemeal additions that even straddle over Casino Drive with a pedestrian pass. The Loser’s Lounge, with its graphic homage to famous losers, such as the Hindenburg, the Titanic, and the like, is consistently a popular nightspot in Laughlin. Don’t pass up Don’s free classic-car showroom, with more than 80 rods, roadsters, and tin lizzies. Pros: charter flights to the resort from all over the country; family destination features an outdoor concert venue and indoor showroom; arcade, bowling center, six-plex movie theater, and supervised playtime at Don’s Kid Kastle. Cons: casino has low-ceiling, 1970s atmosphere; fee for Wi-Fi ($8.99 for 24 hours); rambling layout; serious devotion to cigarettes on the “smoking” side of the casino. | Rooms from: $75 | 1650 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–2535, 800/227–3849 | www.riversideresort.com | 1,404 rooms | No meals.
Edgewater Hotel Casino.
$ | RESORT | This 26-story hotel has a large casino with more than 1,000 machines and five restaurants, including a buffet that serves up weekend brunches and the Hickory Pit Steakhouse. Rooms include 32-inch flat-screen TVs, and there’s a variety of suites available. Pros: central location on the river walk; mountain and river views. Cons: fees for Wi-Fi ($9.99 for 24 hours) and refrigerators ($10 per night); swimming pool gets crowded. | Rooms from: $60 | 2020 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–2453, 800/677–4837 | www.edgewater-casino.com | No credit cards | 1,420 rooms | No meals.
Golden Nugget Laughlin.
$ | RESORT | Although its casino is smaller than some of its Laughlin neighbors, this resort has a more upscale feel and is home to two chain restaurants (Bubba Gump Shrimp Co. and Claim Jumper) as well as the exceptional Saltgrass steak house. The Gold Diggers nightclub is a perennially popular hot spot. The tropical atrium echoes the Mirage on the Las Vegas Strip with two cascading waterfalls and more than 300 types of plants from around the world. Pros: great nightlife scene; attached parking garage; free Wi-Fi in rooms. Cons: limited room availability; the only no-smoking area is a detached area in the slot section of the casino. | Rooms from: $65 | 2300 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–7111, 800/950–7700 | www.goldennugget.com | 300 rooms | No meals.
Harrah’s.
$ | RESORT | This is the classiest joint in Laughlin: it comes with a private sand beach and two casinos (one is no-smoking). It has both the 3,000-seat Rio Vista Outdoor Amphitheater, which has hosted the likes of Tony Bennett and Natalie Cole, as well as the smaller indoor Fiesta Showroom. There’s a cocktail lounge in each of the casinos and another at the adults-only pool. Card fans might also want to check out the World Series of Poker–themed poker room. Pros: separate family and adult towers and pools; smoking and no-smoking casinos; air-charter flights from all over the United States directly to resort for player card members. Cons: pools fill up fast; long lines for guest services; incidental fees for Wi-Fi ($10.95 for 24 hours). | Rooms from: $60 | 2900 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–4600, 800/427–7247 | www.harrahslaughlin.com | 1,561 rooms, 170 suites | No meals.
Pioneer Hotel and Gambling Hall.
$ | RESORT | Although other casinos stress the new, the Pioneer retains its laid-back Western theme and decor from the craps table right inside the front door to the kitschy Western trimmings of Sassy Sue’s saloon, an enclosed bar with picture-window river views. You can spot this small (by high-rise standards) casino from the river walkway by looking for the neon mascot, River Rick—he’s Vegas Vic’s brother. (This was once a sister property to the long-gone Pioneer on Fremont Street.) Pros: 40 designated pet rooms; Colorado River–view rooms available; low rate for in-room Wi-Fi ($4.95 for 24 hours). Cons: badly in need of a remodel; no elevator in deluxe and river-view buildings; motel units have outdoor entry. | Rooms from: $40 | 2200 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–2442, 800/634–3469 | www.pioneerlaughlin.com | 416 rooms | No meals.
Tropicana Laughlin.
$ | RESORT | The only large casino not on the river’s side of Casino Drive offers 1,495 renovated, value-priced rooms. It’s divided into two towers, one is adults only. The subtle railroad theme is cheery, and the pool area is larger than most on the more land-locked side of the road. It’s heated year-round and has private cabanas. A multipurpose convention hall hosts ticketed concert acts. There are six restaurants on-site plus a poolside café. Pros: rooms have an airy, contemporary feel with plantation shutters and quality beds; in-room Wi-Fi ($7.99 for 24 hours). Cons: must cross Casino Drive to see the river and access most casinos; mediocre restaurants. | Rooms from: $40 | 2121 S. Casino Dr. | Laughlin | 702/298–4200, 800/243–6846 | www.troplaughlin.com | 1,495 rooms | No meals.
Hoover Dam
8 miles northeast of Boulder City, 67 miles northwest of Kingman via U.S. 93.
Getting Here and Around
Hoover Dam is about a 75-minute drive from Kingman via U.S. 93; it’s about 15 minutes from Boulder City.
Exploring
Fodor’s Choice | Hoover Dam.
Originally referred to as Boulder Dam, this colossal structure, widely considered one of the greatest engineering achievements in history, was later officially named Hoover Dam in recognition of President Herbert Hoover’s role in the project. Look for artist Oskar Hansen’s plaza sculptures, which include the 30-foot-tall Winged Figures of the Republic (the statues and terrazzo floor patterns were copied at the new Smith Center for the Performing Arts in Downtown Las Vegas).
The tour itself is a tradition that dates back to 1937, and you can still see the old box office on top of the dam. But now the ticketed tours originate in the modern visitor center, with two options. The cheaper, more popular one is the Powerplant Tour, which starts every 15 minutes. It’s a half-hour, guided tour that includes a short film and then a 537-foot elevator ride to two points of interest: the chance to stand on top of one of the 30-foot pipes where you can hear and feel the water rushing through to the generators, and the more impressive eight-story room housing still-functional power generators. Self-paced exhibits follow the guided portion, with good interactive museum exhibits and a great indoor/outdoor patio view of the dam from the river side. The more extensive Hoover Dam Tour includes everything on the Powerplant Tour but limits the group size to 20 and spends more time inside the dam, including a peek through the air vents. Tours run from 9 to 5 all year, with the last daily tour at 4:15 pm. Visitors for both tours submit to security screening comparable to an airport. January and February are the slowest months, and mornings generally are less busy. The top of the dam is open to pedestrians and vehicles, but you have to remain in your vehicle after sundown. Visitors can still drive over the dam for sightseeing, but cannot continue into Arizona; you have to turn around and come back after the road dead-ends at a scenic lookout (with a snack bar and store) on the Arizona side. TIP The dam’s High Scaler Café offers fare such as cold drinks, ice cream, and hamburgers. | U.S. 93, east of Boulder City | Boulder City | 702/494–2517, 866/730–9097 | www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam | Powerplant Tour $15, Hoover Dam Tour $30, visitor center $10; garage parking $10 (free parking on Arizona-side surface lots) | Daily 9–5 | Security, road, and Hoover Dam crossing information: 888/248–1259.
Sports and the Outdoors
Rafting
Black Canyon, just below Hoover Dam, is the place for river running near Las Vegas. You can launch a raft here on the Colorado River year-round. On the Arizona side, the 11-mile run to Willow Beach, with its vertical canyon walls, bighorn sheep on the slopes, and feeder streams and waterfalls coming off the bluffs, is reminiscent of rafting the Grand Canyon. The water flows at roughly 5 miles per hour, but some rapids, eddies, and whirlpools can cause difficulties, as can headwinds, especially for inexperienced rafters.
If you want to go paddling in Black Canyon on your own, you need to make mandatory arrangements with one of the registered outfitters. They provide permits ($12) and the National Park Service entrance fee ($5), as well as launch and retrieval services (the road in and out is in a security zone for the dam). You can get a list of outfitters at | 702/294–1414, or by going to the paddle-craft and rafting-tours section on the Bureau of Land Management’s website (www.usbr.gov/lc/hooverdam).
Black Canyon/Willow Beach River Adventures.
If you’re interested in seeing the canyon and Hoover Dam on large motor-assisted rafts, Black Canyon/Willow Beach River Adventures has group excursions launching from the base of the dam for both five-hour and 90-minute tours. The day trip starts at $92 for adults and includes lunch, and the shorter “postcard” tour is $33. | Depart from Hoover Dam Lodge, U.S. 93 | Boulder City | 800/455–3490 | www.blackcanyonadventures.com.
Lake Mead
About 4 miles from Hoover Dam on U.S. 93, 67 miles northwest of Kingman.
Getting Here and Around
From Hoover Dam, travel west on U.S. 93 to the intersection with Lakeshore Drive to reach Alan Bible Visitors Center, which reopened in early 2013 with a new welcome film and exhibits after two years and nearly $3 million in renovations. It’s open from Wednesday to Sunday 9 to 4:30. Call | 702/293–8990 for more information.
Essentials
Alan Bible Visitor Center.
The main information center for Lake Mead National Recreation Area had a 2013 face-lift, complete with a new hi-def film about the park. Also here are a bookstore, nature exhibits, and a cactus garden. It’s just past the Lake Mead turnoff from U.S. 93, before you get to the pay booth for park entry. A second, smaller visitor center at the park headquarters is in downtown Boulder City at 601 Nevada Way. | 702/293–8990 | www.nps.gov/lake | Daily 9–4:30.
Exploring
Lake Mead.
People come to Lake Mead primarily for boating, but a few areas of shoreline are cultivated for swimming: Boulder Beach is the closest to Las Vegas, only a mile or so from the visitor center. You can get information about Lake Mead’s history, ecology, recreational opportunities, and the accommodations available along its shore at the Alan Bible Visitor Center. | 601 Nevada Way | Boulder City | 702/293–8990 | www.nps.gov/lake | $10 per vehicle, good for 7 days; lake-use fee $16 for 1st vessel, good for 7 days. Annual pass is $30 per vehicle or per vessel.
Sports and the Outdoors
Boating
Las Vegas Boat Harbor and Lake Mead Marina.
The first right turn just past the lake’s entrance station near Boulder City leads to these two marinas, which now lie side by side (lowering lake levels forced Lake Mead Marina to be moved in 2008) and are jointly operated with a combined 1,400 slips. In addition to boater amenities, both have marina stores and casual restaurants. Watercraft and boat rentals are also available, and the marinas provide the closest services to nearby Boulder Beach, a popular public swimming beach. | 490 Horsepower Cove Rd. | Boulder City | 702/293–1191 | www.boatinglakemead.com.
Cruises
Lake Mead Cruises.
At Lake Mead Cruises you can board the 300-passenger Desert Princess, an authentic Mississippi-style paddle-wheeler that plies a portion of the lake, offering views of Hoover Dam and ancient rock formations such as an extinct volcano called Fortification Hill; brunch and dinner cruises are available seasonally. Ninety-minute sightseeing cruises occur year-round. | Hemenway Boat Harbor near Boulder Beach | 866/292–9191 | www.lakemeadcruises.com | From $26. Advance tickets available online.
Scuba Diving and Snorkeling
The creation of Lake Mead flooded a huge expanse of land, and, as a result, sights of the deep abound for scuba diving. Wishing Well Cove has steep canyon drop-offs, caves, and clear water. Castle Cliffs and Virgin Basin both have expansive views of white gypsum reefs and submerged sandstone formations. In summer Lake Mead is like a bathtub, reaching 85°F on the surface and staying at about 80°F down to 50 feet below the surface. Divers can actually wear bathing suits rather than wet suits to do some of the shallower dives. But visibility—which averages 30 feet to 35 feet overall—is much better in the winter months before the late-spring surface-algae bloom obscures some of the deeper attractions from snorkelers. Be aware that Lake Mead’s level has dropped because of low snowfall in the Rockies. This has had some effect on diving conditions.