PASSAGE 19

Superstition Wilderness

KEY INFO

LOCATION Rogers Trough Trailhead to Theodore Roosevelt Lake

DISTANCE 28.7 miles one-way

DAY-TRIP OPTION See turnaround note in the trail description.

SHUTTLE RECOMMENDATIONS Reavis Mountain School (hike along Trail 117 to AZT), Tule Canyon Trailhead off FR 449

DIFFICULTY Strenuous

LAND MANAGERS Tonto National Forest, Mesa Ranger District, 480-610-3300, and Tonto Basin Ranger District, 928-467-3200; www.fs.usda.gov/tonto

RECOMMENDED MONTHS September–April

GATEWAY COMMUNITIES See Globe and Roosevelt and Tonto Basin.

GEOLOGY HIGHLIGHTS See “Supervolcanoes of the Superstition Mountains”.

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OVERVIEW

Although the Superstition Wilderness is heavily traveled, this passage still gives trail users a genuine sense of wilderness as it traverses the east side, farthest from Phoenix, and the trailheads require long drives on four-wheel-drive roads. This sense of solitude certainly seems to have appealed to Elisha Reavis, who settled here along a reliable creek around 1874. Rich soil and a favorable climate helped Reavis grow apples and vegetables, which he sold at mining towns in the area. The Arizona National Scenic Trail (AZT) passes the site of the old Reavis Ranch—still a pastoral place with a few apple trees remaining from the orchard. If you walk the grounds, which are now managed by the U.S. Forest Service, you will see pieces of rusting farm implements and foundations of the original homestead.

The final miles of this passage are at low elevations that are quite hot in summer. Campsites are plentiful on this passage, especially near Walnut Spring, at mile 12.3. Camping near Pine Creek is delightful, and water is often available, depending on the season. Camping is limited before you crest a ridge at mile 4.1. There’s very little camping between mile 18.0 and mile 23.0, and it’s limited again during the final few miles, starting at mile 26.6.

ON THE TRAIL

Follow the trail out of the north end of the Rogers Trough trailhead by using the Reavis Ranch Trail (Trail 109). In 1.3 miles the trail reaches an intersection with Trail 110. The AZT turns northeast onto the Reavis Ranch Trail, and then it travels up to Reavis Saddle and then to the ruins of Reavis Ranch. The trail descends along Reavis Creek—avoid a sharp right turn onto the Fire Line Trail—and continues north on the same Reavis Ranch Trail.

TURNAROUND NOTE: If you’re just out for the day and attempting an out-and-back hike of this passage, Reavis Ranch is a great turnaround location—before you reach Reavis Creek. By the time you’re back at your car, you’ll have 13.6 miles under your boots.

To continue on the trail, at mile 7.9 follow the right-hand option of the two trails paralleling one another. At mile 8 the trail forks just before a fence; take the faint option to the east. The last place you can camp legally in the ranch area is near the creek crossing.

The AZT merges with the Reavis Gap Trail (Trail 117) here. Cross the stream and follow the route along the southern flanks of Boulder Mountain until it tops out. A descent into the Pine Creek drainage leads to a tributary crossing of the creek. Climb north-northeast to a saddle, and cross into another drainage at mile 10.2. Then continue around the top of the drainage to the intersection at mile 10.5, where the AZT leaves the Reavis Gap Trail and turns left (west) onto the Two Bar Ridge Trail (Trail 119).

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An ancient cottonwood tree (Populus fremontii) near Reavis Ranch

As the AZT continues down on Two Bar Ridge, frequent cairns mark it until it reaches Walnut Spring at mile 11, and then it gradually climbs to the north to cross a ridge. The trail tends to fade here, but cairns show the way to the north-northwest before descending the other side. Cairns again mark a strenuous climb through a healthy population of prickly-pear cacti, often crowding the tread on the way to a saddle. The trail turns north to follow the trail’s namesake land formation, Two Bar Ridge.

Continue north on Two Bar Ridge. At the junction with Tule Canyon Trail (Trail 122), the AZT continues north past the junction until it veers to the west, descending gradually before making an abrupt turn to the right (north) at mile 17.4. It descends into a pine forest with some nice camping spots without water. After a low point, the AZT climbs steeply and peaks on a southwest ridge of Pinyon Mountain. Trend north and east to exit the wilderness at mile 17.8. After walking around to the northeast slopes, drop abruptly to the south edge of the parking area for the Two Bar Ridge Trailhead.

Just beyond Pinyon Mountain, Two Bar Ridge Trail ends at FR 83 (Black Bush Ranch Road). The trail follows this doubletrack to the junction with Cottonwood Canyon Trail (Trail 120) at mile 19.7. The AZT currently uses the 3-plus-mile stretch of Cottonwood Canyon for the passage until it reaches FR 341. The canyon is beautiful, but it is narrow, extremely rocky, and tends to flood during the summer monsoons. Often the flooding causes severe washouts and extensive damage, along with brush overgrowth throughout the entire length. Hikers rarely have difficulty with this section, but equestrians and mountain bikers should not attempt it.

Once you are through the canyon and arrive at FR 341, turn right (north) and continue on the doubletrack. The road climbs above the Cottonwood Creek drainage and reaches a high point with views of Theodore Roosevelt Lake, as well as the blue-roofed Visitor Center building.

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Some of the fruit trees planted by Elisha Reavis in the 1870s still produce apples near the historic Reavis Ranch.

At mile 25.5, the road drops to cross Cottonwood Creek. Just before the creek crossing, turn west (left) and cross the creek (the spur to the right is the 1.2-mile spur to the Frazier Trailhead). The road ascends to a junction with FR 1080. Cross this road and pick up the singletrack Thompson Trail (Trail 121), which is also a popular day-hiking trail.

The trail soon reaches another junction, this time with the Cemetery Trail, a 0.25-mile trail that leads through a fence to the right to the Cemetery Trailhead, which is directly across the highway from the Roosevelt Lake Visitor Center and Marina. The marina is a good place to access very limited services in this area.

After passing this junction, continue to the northwest and follow the signage for a new alignment that was developed for shared use. It wraps around a hillside and drops into a drainage crossing with a water tank, and then climbs to a saddle. After several more drainage contours, it descends to reach a trailhead just before AZ 188. Cross the suspension bridge by walking on the far left side, and pick up the trail where the cement guardrail ends on the west side. A large parking area is on the right (east) side of the highway.

Mountain Bike Notes

Bikes are prohibited for most of this passage as the majority is within the Superstition Wilderness. Refer to the Arizona Trail Association’s (ATA) Mountain Bike Databook for preferred routes around the wilderness. (Download the book from aztrail.org/mtn_bikers.html.) Seasonal storms render Cottonwood Canyon unfriendly to bikes, and equestrians are warned to avoid the area. For detailed information about scenic mountain biking routes around wilderness areas, visit aztrail.org.

SOUTHERN ACCESS: Rogers Trough Trailhead

Note: This access usually requires a high-clearance four-wheel-drive vehicle.

From Florence Junction, travel east on US 60 for 1.8 miles and turn left (north) onto Queen Valley Road. Continue 1.8 miles and turn right (east) on FR 357. Drive 3 miles and turn left (north) onto FR 172 at a sign for Rogers Trough Trailhead (There is a sign for FR 172 about 20 yards after the turn.) Continue 9.2 miles to a fork and bear right onto FR 172A. Follow this road for 3.7 miles, bear left at an intersection with FR 650, and continue 0.4 mile to a very large parking area. The trail departs from the north end of the parking lot.

From Superior, travel west about 3 miles on US 60, 0.6 mile west of mile marker 223, and turn right (north) at an unmarked intersection onto a dirt road, which is FR 357. Follow it 5 miles to a right turn onto FR 172, which is marked as such only about 20 yards after the turn. (A sign on FR 357, facing the opposite direction, indicates that this is the turn for Rogers Trough Trailhead.) Continue 9.2 miles to a fork and bear right onto FR 172A. Follow this road for 3.7 miles, bear left at an intersection with FR 650, and continue 0.4 mile to a very large parking area. The trail departs from the north end of the parking lot.

ALTERNATE ACCESS: Two Bar Ridge Trailhead

From the suspension bridge near Roosevelt Dam, follow AZ 188 east for 5.5 miles and turn right onto a dirt road, which is marked as FR 83 a short distance off the highway. The following mileages are from the highway turnoff: Drive 2.8 miles to a gate at Black Bush Ranch and bear left, continuing on FR 83. At a gate and fork at mile 3.9, take the left fork, go about 30 yards to another fork, and bear right.

At mile 4.1, you’ll see Trail 120 on the right (north), the path of the AZT along Cottonwood Creek. Continue southwest on the “main” road (and the AZT), which becomes quite steep. Make a left turn at mile 5.6, just before the road crosses an earthen dam. Drive the final steep 0.1 mile to the trailhead.

ALTERNATE ACCESS: Frazier Trailhead

This trailhead is recommended for trail users towing horse trailers. From the suspension bridge near Theodore Roosevelt Dam, follow AZ 188 east for 2 miles and turn right, into the trailhead parking area. The AZT is 1.2 miles up the trail.

ALTERNATE ACCESS: Cemetery Trailhead

From the suspension bridge by Roosevelt Dam, follow AZ 188 east for 1.4 miles, then turn right into an RV park across the highway from the Roosevelt Marina and Visitor Center. Make another immediate right into the Cemetery Trail parking area. The AZT is 0.25 mile up the trail.

NORTHERN ACCESS: Theodore Roosevelt Lake

If you want to hit the trail from here, please follow the trail description in reverse order. This is near Roosevelt Dam, where AZ 88 and AZ 188 meet. The parking area is at the north end of the suspension bridge, on the east side of the highway.