Getting around

T&T’s public transportation system can initially seem chaotic and unpredictable, but once you’ve got the hang of it, getting around these two compact islands is relatively straightforward – if somewhat longwinded if you’re using buses or maxi taxis.

Public transport – buses, maxi taxis and route taxis – serves most places covered in the Guide, though a few of the more rural areas have only infrequent services. In populated areas, buses and maxi/route taxis run from around 6am until late evening, but outside commuter hours the waits can be long and having your own car is infinitely more convenient. Private taxis are always available. Avoid travelling at peak hours (6–8am & 3–6pm), when urban roads are clogged with heavy traffic and maxis and taxis heave with people.

Note also that many of the islands’ tour operators offer airport transfers and general transportation, such as from Port of Spain to Grande Riviere or Crown Point to Castara and Charlotteville.

By bus and maxi taxi

Bus services in Trinidad and Tobago are divided between large public buses, run by the Public Transport Service Corporation (PTSC; ptsc.co.tt) and private services – small minibuses called maxi taxis. All public buses and most maxi taxis in Trinidad leave from and terminate at City Gate – sometimes referred to as South Quay in official literature – in Port of Spain, the country’s main transportation hub; there are also smaller bus depots in San Fernando, Chaguanas, Point Fortin and Sangre Grande. Maxi and bus services between Port of Spain and Arima are especially quick due to the Priority Bus Route, which runs along the course of the old railway line through Trinidad’s east–west corridor, and there are now deluxe non-stop bus services running between Port of Spain and both San Fernando and Sangre Grande. In Tobago, buses cover the entire island, originating at the Sangster Hill Road terminal, off Milford Road in Scarborough.

Buses and maxis are viable transport options for visitors, and riding in a maxi can often be an entertaining experience as well as a chance to chat to locals; note that when entering, it’s normal to greet other passengers with a “good morning” or a “good afternoon”. It’s also fun to try and spot the most unusual of the “names” splashed over the top of the windscreen – popular standards include the likes of “Problem Child” or “Wotless”, perhaps in honour of the notoriously cavalier driving habits of their owners.

By bus

All public buses in Trinidad in Trinidad are air-conditioned and reasonably comfortable. Bus stops are often small concrete shelters on the side of the road, or sometimes just a sign on a telephone pole. Tickets must be bought in advance, either from the main City Gate terminus in Port of Spain, Scarborough’s Sangster Hill Road bus terminal or from small general stores around the country – you cannot simply board a bus and buy your fare. Weekly and monthly travel cards are available. Fares run from TT$2.50 to TT$8, and services operate from 4.30am to around 9pm. Bus information can be obtained online, in person at the bus terminals, or by ringing 623 2341 (Trinidad) and 639 2293 (Tobago).

By maxi taxi

Maxi taxis carry anything from ten to thirty people, and are privately owned but run according to set routes and fares; each area has a different colour-coded stripe, or band. In Trinidad, yellow-band vehicles work from in and around Port of Spain to Diego Martin and the western tip; red bands in the east; green bands in the centre and south; black bands in and around Princes Town; and brown bands from San Fernando to the southwest. Blue-band maxis operate in Tobago, where there is only one set route, from Scarborough to Charlotteville (the rest are for schoolchildren and private tourist charters). Maxis adhere to no fixed timetable, though services are at their most frequent from 6am to 10am, and 3pm to 8pm; after 8pm you can expect a longer wait. Some maxis run intermittently through the night, especially along the east–west corridor and in the major towns. Importantly, maxis can be hailed anywhere along their route – just stick out your hand and if they have space they will pick you up – but it’s often quicker to go to a main stand; since maxis wait until they are full before leaving, they may not have free seats until they reach their destination. Once aboard, they will let you off at any point; press the buzzers by the windows to stop the bus. Fares range between TT$3 and TT$10; ask fellow passengers if you’re not sure, or just give the driver a TT$10/20 note and wait for your change.

By route taxi and private taxi

Route taxis are privately owned cars operating as shared taxis on set routes and depart from stands in all sizeable towns. They hold four to five passengers in addition to the driver and, apart from their H number plates, are indistinguishable from private cars (which have P number plates – although note that some P-licensed cars also operate as route taxis; these are best avoided, as you could be getting into anyone’s car). Route taxis don’t leave their stand until they’re full, but are usually quicker (and slightly more expensive) than maxis as they stop less frequently.

To stop a taxi en route, hail it with a wave of your hand. There is a widely accepted code of hand signals among locals catching taxis; point left or right to indicate which direction you want to take at the next major turn-off. As with maxis, when entering the car, it’s normal to greet other passengers. To stop the taxi, just tell your driver you want to get out as you approach your destination. If you’re not sure what you should be paying, just hand over a TT$20 note and wait for change; you’re unlikely to be overcharged.

Private taxis are unmetered, so a price must be agreed beforehand, and they easily work out just as expensive as a cab in Britain or the US. As with route taxis, vehicles have an H number plate. It is often possible – and more economical – however, to bargain with a route taxi driver to drop you where you want. Kalloos (622 9073) offers a 24-hour, island-wide service in Trinidad; Uber also arrived in Trinidad in 2017, with the majority of drivers based in Port of Spain and San Fernando; visit uber.com/cities for up-to-date coverage and fare estimates. In Tobago, call the Tobago Taxi Co-Op (639 2707); drivers also hang out at the airport. Hotels and guesthouses in both islands will be able to recommend a driver.

By car

Driving in T&T requires patience and constant alertness: you simply cannot take your eyes off the road for one moment, and the packed one-way streets of downtown Port of Spain can seem a nightmare to the unfamiliar. Tobago is easier for drivers, with quieter roads and far less potential for getting lost. Though Trinbagonian drivers are generally courteous, often stopping to let other drivers pull out or offering parking advice, they also habitually stop at short notice, turn without indicating and will happily block traffic to buy doubles or chat with a friend. The best thing to do is accept it; beeping your horn out of irritation will only get you withering stares; horns are more frequently used as a thank-you gesture for a courtesy or indication of an intention to overtake. Expect maxis/taxis to pull over at any moment, and always drive defensively. Note also that many local drivers keep full-beam headlights on all the time after dark; keep your eyes to the left verge to avoid being dazzled. Hand signals are frequently used: an up-and-down movement indicates that a driver is about to stop (or an instruction for others to stop due to a hazard ahead); if pulling out into traffic, some still stick out an arm to indicate their intent. Whatever the motivation, slow down.

Trinidad has two highways (the Churchill Roosevelt or CRH, between Port of Spain and Arima; and the Uriah Butler/Solomon Hochoy Highway between Grand Bazaar on the CRH and San Fernando), while Tobago’s slow Claude Noel Highway runs between Scarborough and Lowlands. Trinidad’s highways can feel hair-raising, mostly thanks to high-speed lane-change weaving which looks as though it ought to cause a multiple pile-up (sadly, it often does); left-hand overtaking is also commonplace. Always take extra care, and slow right down in the tropical rains.

Signage is fairly good on both islands. Distances and speed limits are in kilometres, and in Trinidad, most of the tourist sites are marked with brown signs indicating where to turn off from the highways/minor roads. The Waze app is useful for navigation and monitoring the traffic situation, though you’ll of course need mobile data to use it.

Traffic lights can be confusing: as well as the usual red/amber/green sequence, you’ll see flashing red or yellow lights at junctions; both mean “proceed with caution”; yellow means it’s primarily your right of way, red that it’s someone else’s.

Driving is the left, and seat belts are compulsory. T&T’s drink-driving laws have been tightened up in recent years, though attitudes remain somewhat laidback. The law also demands that drivers be properly attired; men can be charged for driving without a top on (“bareback”), so always keep a T-shirt handy. In Trinidad, the (almost universally ignored) speed limit is 100kmph on the Churchill Roosevelt/Uriah Butler highways, 80kmph on all other highways and 50kmph on main roads in built-up areas. Tobago’s speed limit is 50kmph, even on the Claude Noel Highway.

A valid international driving licence or one issued in the US, Canada, UK, Germany or the Bahamas is required for driving both cars and motorcycles for up to ninety days.

Car rental

All companies require you to be 25 or over and hold a valid driving licence; most ask for a deposit guaranteed by a credit card imprint. You’ll be offered a collision damage waiver at extra cost (usually US$5–15/day); without one, you will be liable for damage, but note that you may well be able to arrange CDW cover through your home insurance before you arrive in T&T, which often works out to be much cheaper. Rental prices vary, so shop around; they tend to start at around US$30 per day for the smallest vehicle, inclusive of third-party insurance and unlimited mileage. Check tyres (including the spare) before you drive away, and make sure you’re present when existing scratches and bumps are noted; a video record on your phone as you do this is recommended.

CAR RENTAL FIRMS

Econo-Car Trinidad and Tobago econocarrentalstt.com/trinidad-car-rentals.html

Europcar Trinidad europcar.co.tt

Hertz Trinidad hertz.com

Kalloos Trinidad kalloos.com

Sheppy’s Tobago tobagocarrental.com

Sherman’s Tobago shermansrental.com

Sixt Tobago sixt.com

Thrifty Trinidad and Tobago thrifty.com

Motorcycle and bicycle rental

Renting a motorcycle isn’t advisable in Trinidad due to the volume of traffic and unpredictable driving, but a moped or larger bike can be a good way of getting around Tobago’s quieter roads; TTBikes (338 2377, ttbks.com) or Sheppy’s (639 1543, tobagocarrental.com) are reliable outlets. You can rent bicycles on both islands, though for the same reason they’re not great for getting around Trinidad. In Tobago, try Easy Goers on Airport Rd in Crown Point (681 8025 or 787 0685, easygoersbikes.com). Tour companies on both islands offer guided cycling tours.

By water taxi

Trinidad’s water taxis (624 5137, nidco.co.tt) save time and stress on the roads between Port of Spain and San Fernando (45min; TT$15), and are a quick, easy way and fun way to travel

Travelling between Trinidad and Tobago

There are two options available if you wish to travel between the islands: the plane, quick and relatively inexpensive; and the ferry, a lot cheaper, but slower and a rough ride that’s notorious for seasickness. Going by air is a far more pleasant experience, though it does mean that you have to get to and from Piarco airport, which can be a lengthy journey at rush hour; the ferry, by comparison, shuttles between central Port of Spain and Scarborough.

By ferry

T&T’s inter-island ferry service has long been plagued by problems, and at the time of writing only one catamaran, the T&T Express, was in operation; a newly purchased second vessel is due to be put into service sometime in 2018. Journey time between the islands is 4–5 hours.

In Trinidad, ferries arrive and depart from the main terminal opposite the Twin Towers on Wrightson Road in Port of Spain; in Tobago, the terminal is on Milford Road in central Scarborough. Sailing schedules are available on the Inter-Island Ferry Service website, https://ttitferry.com. Bear in mind that the journey can be rough due to strong currents in the Bocas (less so from Tobago to Trinidad); take seasickness tablets, and sit in the middle of the boat rather than the back or the front. Seasoned ferry passengers travel with a sheet or wrap to cover the sometimes less-than-clean seats.

One-way tickets are bookable online and cost TT$50; standard car prices are TT$150 one-way (though few rental outfits will let you take their cars on the ferry). For same-day tickets only, the Port of Spain and Scarborough terminal ticket offices are open Monday to Thursday 7.15am to 3pm, 4.15 to 6pm & 7 to 10.30pm, Friday 7.15am to 3pm; be prepared to join the queue at least three hours before the boat leaves. Try to secure tickets as far in advance as possible, particularly during busy periods like Carnival and Easter. For further information, call 625 4906 in Trinidad, 639 2416 in Tobago.

By plane

National carrier Caribbean Airlines (625 7200, caribbean-airlines.com) makes the twenty-minute flight between Trinidad and Tobago up to twenty times a day each way, though bear in mind that services are often subject to delays. Tickets cost US$24 one-way and US$48 return; you can book and pay for tickets online, or visit a ticket office in person. The latter are at Piarco Airport (daily 4.15am–7pm), and at Nicholas Tower, Independence Square, Port of Spain (Mon–Fri 8am–4pm, Sat 8am–noon); in Tobago, there’s an office opposite departures in Crown Point Airport (daily 5.45am–9.45pm; 660 7200). Note that all tickets are flexible: once you’ve paid, you can change the date and time of your flight online, by phone or at ticket offices.

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