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Local LifeExploring the Canal St-Martin

Bordered by shaded towpaths and criss-crossed with iron footbridges, Canal St-Martin wends through the city’s northern quartiers (quarters). You can float past them on a canal cruise, but strolling among this rejuvenated neighbourhood’s cool cafes, offbeat boutiques and hip bars and clubs lets you see why it’s beloved by Parisian bobos (bourgeois bohemians).

Getting There

Canal St-Martin is about 4km north of Notre Dame.

Metro République (lines 3, 5, 8, 9 and 11) is centrally located.

Metro Château d’Eau, Jacques Bonsergent,Gare de l’Estand Parmentier are useful stations.

1Coffee with the Locals

Kick off with coffee at 52 Faubourg St-Denis ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.faubourgstdenis.com; 52 rue du Faubourg St-Denis, 10e; mains €16-20; h8am-midnight, kitchen noon-2.30pm & 7-11pm; W; mChâteau d'Eau), a thoroughly contemporary neighbourhood restaurant-cafe that is also a brilliant space to hang out in at any time of day.

2Retro Clothes Shopping

Flip through colour-coded racks of vintage cast-offs at Frivoli ( GOOGLE MAP ; 26 rue Beaurepaire, 10e; h11am-7pm Wed-Fri, 2-7pm Sat; mJacques Bonsergent), on boutique-lined rue Beaurepaire.

3Pizza Picnic

Order a Poulidor (duck, apple and goats cheese) or Basquiat (gorgonzola, figs and cured ham) pizza from Pink Flamingo ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 42 02 31 70; www.pinkflamingopizza.com; 67 rue Bichat, 10e; pizzas €11.50-17; h7-11.30pm Mon-Thu, noon-3pm & 7-11.30pm Fri-Sun; mJacques Bonsergent) and receive a pink helium balloon; it’s used to locate you and your perfect canal-side picnic spot when the pizza is delivered.

4Cultural Cool

Within a converted warehouse, alternative cultural centre Point Éphémèr ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 40 34 02 48; www.pointephemere.org; 200 quai de Valmy, 10e; h12.30pm-2am Mon-Sat, 12.30-11pm Sun; W; mLouis Blanc) has resident artists and musicians, exhibitions and a chilled bar-restaurant. Pop back at night for live music, DJs and clubbing events.

5Cafe Culture

Watch the boats from spirited L’Atmosphère ( GOOGLE MAP ; 49 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10e; h9.30am-1.45am Mon-Sat, to midnight Sun; mJacques Bonsergent, Gare de l’Est), hit barista-run Holybelly ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.holybel.ly; 19 rue Lucien Sampaix, 10e; breakfast €5-11.50, lunch mains €13.50-16.50; h9am-6pm Thu, Fri, Mon, from 10am Sat & Sun; mJacques Bonsergent) or head to original bobo hang-out Chez Prune ( GOOGLE MAP ; 71 quai de Valmy, 10e; h8am-2am Mon-Sat, 10am-2am Sun; mRépublique).

6Hilltop Haven

A far cry from its former incarnation as a rubbish tip and quarry for Baron Haussmann’s 19th-century reformation, hilly, forested Parc des Buttes-Chaumont ( GOOGLE MAP ; rue Manin & rue Botzaris, 19e; h7am-10pm May-Sep, to 8pm Oct-Apr; mButtes-Chaumont, Botzaris) conceals grottoes, artificial waterfalls and a temple-topped island reached by footbridges, as well as the Rosa Bonheur dance hall and cafe.

7Post-Industrial Dining

Book ahead to dine on contemporary bistro fare at white-walled shop turned restaurant Chatomat ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 47 97 25 77; 6 rue Victor Letalle, 20e; mains €15-20; h7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sat & 1st Sun of month; mMénilmontant, Couronnes, Père Lachaise).

8Nightcap, Nightlife

Finish with a drink at the belle époque Café Charbon ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.facebook.com/cafe.charbon.oberkampf; 109 rue Oberkampf, 11e; h9am-2am Mon-Wed & Sun, 9am-4am Thu-Sat; W; mParmentier) or kick on at its live music and DJ venue, Le Nouveau Casino ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 43 57 57 40; www.nouveaucasino.net; 109 rue Oberkampf, 11e; hTue-Sun; mParmentier).