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Local LifeSoutheastern Discovery

Spanning both banks of the Seine, Paris’ southeast is an eclectic mix of quartiers (quarters) that makes for a fascinating stroll if you’ve stood in one tourist queue too many. But while it’s an authentic slice of local life, there are plenty of big-hitting attractions here too, including France’s national cinema institute and national library.

Getting There

Southeastern Paris is about 3km southeast of Notre Dame.

Metro Gare de Lyon (lines 1 and 14) and Place d’Italie (lines 5, 6and 7) are convenient start/end points.

1Railway Station Splendour

Start your journey in style with a drink or classical fare like beef tartare prepared at your table at belle époque showpiece Le Train Bleu ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 43 43 09 06; www.le-train-bleu.com; 26 place Louis Armand, 12e, Gare de Lyon; menus €65 & €105, mains €25-45; hrestaurant 11.30am-2.45pm & 7-10.45pm, bar 7.30am-10.30pm Mon-Sat, 9am-10.30pm Sun; W; mGare de Lyon).

2Cinematic History

Cinephiles shouldn’t miss Cinémathèque Française ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.cinematheque.fr; 51 rue de Bercy, 12e; adult/child €5/2.50, with film €8; hnoon-7pm Mon & Wed-Sat, to 8pm Sun; mBercy), showcasing the history of French cinema at its museum, as well as screening classics and edgy new films.

3Village Spirit

There are more cinemas at Bercy Village ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.bercyvillage.com; Cour St-Émilion, 12e; hshops 11am-9pm Mon-Sat, restaurants & bars 11am-2am; mCour St-Émilion), but its main draw is its strip of former wine warehouses, sheltering shops, eateries and bars.

4Crossing the Bridge

Opened in 2006, Paris’ 37th bridge, the oak-and-steel foot and cycle bridge, Passerelle Simone de Beauvoir, links the Right and Left Banks.

5Hitting the Books

Topped by four sunlit glass towers shaped like open books, a rainforest wraps around the reading rooms of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 53 79 59 59; www.bnf.fr; 11 quai François Mauriac, 13e; temporary exhibitions adult/child from €3/free; hexhibitions 10am-7pm Tue-Sat, 1-7pm Sun, closed early-late Sep; mBibliothèque), which mounts exhibitions revolving around ‘the word’.

6Dockside Fashion

Transformed warehouse Docks en Seine (Cité de la Mode et du Design; GOOGLE MAP ; www.citemodedesign.fr; 34 quai d’Austerlitz, 13e; h10am-midnight; mGare d’Austerlitz), aka the Cité de la Mode et du Design, is the French fashion institute’s HQ,with exhibitions and events as well as hip restaurants, bars and clubs.

7Swimming on the Seine

Splash on (not in!) the Seine at the floating swimming pool Piscine Joséphine Baker ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 56 61 96 50; http://equipement.paris.fr/piscine-josephine-baker-2930; quai François Mauriac, 13e; adult/child pool €3.60/2, sauna €10/5; h7-8.30am & 1-9pm Mon, Wed & Fri, 1-11pm Tue & Thu, 11am-8pm Sat, 10am-8pm Sun; mQuai de la Gare).

8Drinking, Dining & Dancing on the Seine

Board floating bar-restaurant-clubs like the red tugboat Le Batofar ( GOOGLE MAP ; www.batofar.org; opp 11 quai François Mauriac, 13e; hbar noon-midnight, club 11.30pm-6am; mQuai de la Gare, Bibliothèque).

9Heading to the ’Hood

To dine on terra firma, head to small bistro Chez Nathalie ( GOOGLE MAP ; %01 45 80 20 42; www.cheznathalie.fr; 45 rue Vandrezanne, 13e; mains €18-30; hnoon-2.30pm & 7-11pm Mon-Sat; mCorvisart) in the bar-filled Butte aux Cailles neighbourhood.