The avocado originated in the state of Puebla in central Mexico, where the small, undomesticated variety “criollo,” with its large seed and black skin, can still be found. Of the many hybrids that have been developed over the years, the Hass is the most popular and accounts for 80 percent of the avocados consumed in the world today. Its heritage can be traced back to a single seedling planted in the late 1920s by a mailman named Rudolph Hass in La Habra Heights, California.
Though avocados are most commonly appreciated for their buttery fruit, the leaves are also sometimes called for in Mexican cuisine, such as in the preparation of frijoles negros (black beans), in soups and stews, or as a bed for barbecuing meats. The flavor has been described as similar to a mixture of bay leaves and anise. These leaves come from a particular species of avocado grown in Mexico (Persea drymifolia) and are often available at Mexican specialty stores. Leaves from avocados commonly sold in the United States are not a good substitute.
One of the biggest challenges in dealing with avocados is accurately determining when they are ripe. The color of the skin isn’t necessarily a reliable indicator of when an avocado is ready to eat—the best way to judge is by feel. Gently press the large rounded end (not the sides or stem end) of the fruit. When the avocado is ready for slicing, the rounded end will give slightly when pressed.
One or two more days ripening may be desirable when making guacamole, but there is a fine line between perfectly ripe and overripe. When in doubt, it is always better to choose a slightly firmer (not hard) avocado than a very soft one and to purchase an extra just in case. It is also a good idea to make sure the avocado has its stem intact and no apparent marks or indentations on the skin, which could indicate bruising.
An uncut avocado should not be refrigerated but can be stored in a wine refrigerator (set no lower than 55°F or 13°C), and it will keep nicely for several days. (This also works for tomatoes and bananas.)
Once cut, avocados are subject to enzymatic browning. In other words, when exposed to air, the flesh will quickly turn an unappetizing brown color. The best way to prevent this is to cut an avocado right before serving it. It also helps to sprinkle the surface of the flesh with lime or lemon juice, which not only inhibits browning but also brightens and balances the avocado’s richness. Commercially available anti-browning agents are also effective.
If guacamole must be prepared ahead of time, sprinkle it with lime juice or a thin film of olive oil, press plastic wrap directly against the surface, and refrigerate. (The old wives’ tale of imbedding the avocado seed in the guacamole to help preserve its color is a good story but doesn’t really seem to do anything.)
How to Make Fresh Guacamole
Yields 2–3 cups (473–710 ml)
Ingredients:
3 tablespoons (27 grams) white onion, small dice
1 or more serrano or jalapeño chiles, destemmed and finely minced
Kosher salt to taste
2 large avocados, skins and seeds removed, large dice
Lime juice to taste
1 small unpeeled tomato, cored and deseeded, small dice
2 rounded tablespoons cilantro leaves, or to taste (optional)
1 tablespoon onion, small dice (optional)
1 tablespoon tomato, small dice (optional)
1 tablespoon cilantro, chopped (optional)
Directions:
Place the diced onion and some of the minced chile in a molcajete (traditional Mexican grinding tool), sprinkle with a little salt, and mash to a pulp.
Add the avocado, sprinkle with some lime juice, and continue mashing to a relatively smooth consistency (some texture is desirable).
Stir in the diced tomato and cilantro.
Taste and adjust the seasoning by adding more salt, lime juice, and/or a little more minced chile.
Garnish with onion, tomato, and cilantro (optional).
Notes: Guacamole can also be prepared in a large bowl using the back of a fork or a potato masher. Don’t worry about mashing the onion and chile—they will lend texture to the finished guacamole.
There are many other flavors that may be added to guacamole. Try using a mixture of citrus juices; stir in some chopped mandarin orange segments; or add a dash of olive oil.
Tips on Slicing Avocados
The best way to cut an avocado is to hold it lengthwise in the palm. Place the knife edge parallel to the avocado and cut into the side of the fruit. Without moving the blade, carefully rotate the avocado on the blade until it is cut all the way around. Gently twist the two avocado halves and pull apart. Set the halves on a cutting board, lightly whack the seed with the sharp edge of the knife, give it a half turn, and remove the seed. Holding thumb and forefinger on both sides of the spine (back) of the knife, carefully push the seed off the blade. (Never try to grab the seed from underneath the sharp side of a knife.) The avocado can then be peeled and sliced, or if is to be diced, the flesh can be crosscut in the skin and scooped out with a large spoon.