Huitlacoche (Corn Fungus)Huitlacoche (Corn Fungus)

Huitlacoche, or cuitlacoche, is actually a fungus that grows on corn plants causing the kernels to swell, turn white, and become filled with a thick black substance that is the secret to huitlacoche’s success. The fungus only appears under the right conditions—during intervals of warm, wet weather. But when it does, it increases the dollar value of an ear of corn by as much as twenty to fifty times. Therefore, farmers in Mexico, like their Aztec ancestors, consider huitlacoche a gift from the gods and pray for its arrival.

American corn farmers, on the other hand, pray (and spray) to prevent huitlacoche from appearing. In fact, they refer to it by an entirely different name—“corn smut.” Perhaps this is why so many euphemistic names such as “Mexican caviar” and “Mexican truffle” have been given to huitlacoche in order to counter its less savory monikers; but by whatever name it’s called, the flavor is creamy, earthy, and slightly sweet, with woodsy, mushroom overtones. It is a true delicacy when used as a filling for quesadillas, empanadas, tacos, tarts, and enchiladas.

How to Prepare Huitlacoche

Yields approximately 1 pound (454 grams)

Ingredients:

  1 tablespoon (15 grams) vegetable oil or lard

  1 small white onion, peeled and diced

  1 (14.8 ounce, 420 grams) can huitlacoche (see notes)

  Kosher salt to taste

  1 tablespoon (1 gram) fresh epazote, chopped (optional)

Directions:

  Heat the oil or lard in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until they are translucent but not browned, 3–5 minutes.

  Add the huitlacoche and (optional) epazote and cook until the liquid is reduced.

  Add salt to taste.

Notes: Huitlacoche is generally only available canned in the United States.

Some chefs like to add sautéed button mushrooms to the huitlacoche.