Lard versus Vegetable OilLard versus Vegetable Oil

The pre-Columbian people of Mexico did not cook food in fat or oil. Their clay cooking vessels could not have withstood temperatures necessary for frying, nor did they possess oil or fat in sufficient quantities to make the technique practical.

Spaniards introduced cooking fat (lard), along with pigs, cows, sheep, goats, and cheese, to Mexico after the Spanish Conquest in the early 16^th century. It could be argued that the most revolutionary of these products was lard because it fundamentally changed the way the Mexican people prepared their food. By the end of the Colonial period (1650–1810), lard had become a staple in virtually every Mexican kitchen.

In recent decades however, the use of lard has fallen into disrepute in many world cuisines including that of Mexico. The word itself has become synonymous with being unhealthy and overweight. Many Mexican restaurants advertise that they don’t use lard, though many substitutes, such as hydrogenated vegetable oils that contain transfats, can be less healthy than the natural animal fat they replace. This is because transfats not only raise “bad” cholesterol levels in the body, as do all saturated fats; they also lower “good” cholesterol levels.¹

Admittedly, fat is a controversial topic. Saturated fats of any kind—including animal fats, hydrogenated fats, and even coconut and palm oil—are not as healthy as mono- and polyunsaturated fats such as olive oil and safflower oil. Lard contains 5 grams of saturated fat and 12 milligrams of cholesterol per tablespoon (15 grams), whereas most vegetable oils only contain 1 or 2 grams of saturated fat and no cholesterol.

But in its defense, pure rendered lard actually has less total fat per tablespoon (13 grams) than the average vegetable oil (15 grams), as well as lower overall calories (115 calories per tablespoon for lard compared to 119 for safflower oil).

So it probably comes down to how much lard is used and how often. Unless an individual is on a restricted diet because of health reasons, the occasional use of a small amount of lard in a recipe is probably not harmful. And for certain applications, no other fat has the authenticity, flavor, and mouth feel that lard provides. It should be noted, however, that there is a big difference between manufactured hydrogenated lard (those room temperature boxes sold at grocery stores) and lard that is pure and freshly rendered.

How to Render Lard

Yields 4 cups (1 liter)

Ingredients:

  2 pounds (907 grams) pork fat, well chilled

Directions:

  Lard may be rendered on a stovetop or in the oven. If cooking in the oven, preheat to 325°F (163°C).

  Cut the fat into pieces and run it through a meat grinder; or cut into small dice, place in a food processor 1 cup at a time, and pulse until finely minced.

  If cooking on a stove, place the fat in a heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat and cook, stirring and scraping the bottom of the pan occasionally, until the clear fat is rendered, about a half hour.

  If cooking in an oven, place the Dutch oven on middle rack of a preheated oven until the fat has rendered.

  Strain, cover, and refrigerate until needed. (It will keep for several months under refrigeration.)

Notes: Do not let the fat cook so long that it darkens in color.

Once refrigerated and firm, the lard should be creamy white.