PapadzulesPapadzules

Yields 12 enchiladas / Serves 4

It is possible that a version of papadzules was made in pre-Columbian times, though the people of Mexico would not have had chicken eggs for the filling. Turkey, duck, wild bird, or even iguana eggs could have been used. There is no pork, beef, cheese, or fat for frying in this recipe—all of those ingredients were introduced to the Mexican people by the Spanish.

In the Mayan peninsula of Mexico, the pumpkin seeds used for this dish are much larger than those available in the United States. When ground in a molcajete and then squeezed, they exude oil which is drizzled over the enchiladas right before serving. If available, pumpkin oil can be used as a garnish. Chiltomate is a Mayan-inspired chile-tomato sauce.

INGREDIENTS

For the filling:

  8 large eggs

  Kosher salt to taste

For the pepita sauce:

  4 fresh epazote sprigs or 1 teaspoon (1 gram) dried epazote

  1 cup plus 2 tablespoons (144 grams) raw pepitas (pumpkin seeds), divided (1 tablespoon, 10 grams, reserved for garnish)

  Kosher salt to taste

For the chiltomate sauce:

  1 pound (454 grams) Roma tomatoes

  1 habanero chile, whole

  ¼ medium white onion, peeled and root end removed

  Kosher salt to taste

For the assembly:

  12 corn tortillas

For the garnish:

  1 tablespoon (10 grams) reserved roasted pepitas

  Pumpkin oil (optional)

DIRECTIONS

Start with the filling:

  Place the eggs in a large saucepan that can accommodate them without crowding. Cover with cold water and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

  Reduce heat to a bare simmer and cook for 7 minutes (yolks should be fully set yet tender). Immediately drain eggs and immerse in cold water to stop the cooking process. Peel and coarsely chop. Season with salt to taste and set aside.

Prepare the pepita sauce:

  Place 2 cups (473 ml) water in a saucepan over high heat. Add the epazote (if using dried, tie in a cheesecloth for easy removal) and bring to a boil. Remove from heat, steep for a few minutes, and discard epazote. Set water aside to cool.

  Place pepitas on a skillet set over medium-low heat. Dry roast until slightly golden, being careful to not let them burn. Remove from pan and allow to cool briefly. Set aside 1 tablespoon (10 grams) seeds for garnish.

  Grind the remaining seeds to a very fine powder in a spice grinder.

  Place ground pepitas in a blender with 1 cup (237 ml) water infused with epazote; purée, adding more epazote-infused water as needed to achieve a very smooth sauce consistency.

  Place the puréed pepitas in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Warm through but do not allow to boil.

  Season with salt to taste. Cover and keep warm.

Make the chiltomate sauce:

  Place the tomatoes in a saucepan, cover with water, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a brisk simmer and cook for 10 minutes.

  While tomatoes are simmering, dry roast habanero chile until browned in spots (see page 57).

  Place the tomatoes and onion in a blender and process until smooth, adding tomato cooking water as needed to achieve smooth consistency.

  Transfer the blended ingredients to a saucepan placed over medium heat.

  Add the roasted habanero chile (whole) to sauce and simmer gently for 10 minutes, or until the sauce is slightly reduced and flavored with the habanero. Remove the chile and discard.

  Season with salt to taste. Cover and keep warm.

Assemble the enchiladas:

  Place a tortilla in the warm pepita sauce, turning to cover completely with sauce.

  Place 2 tablespoons chopped egg on the lower third of a tortilla, roll, and place on a warm individual plate, 3 enchiladas per serving.

  When the enchiladas are plated, pour remaining pepita sauce over enchiladas (papadzules should be moist and well covered with this sauce).

  Top with chiltomate sauce and garnish with reserved pepitas and (optional) pumpkin oil.