DISTANCE: 2.5 miles (4km)
TIME: A half-day
START: Mission Dolores
END: 24th Street
POINTS TO NOTE: This district is best explored by day. To reach the starting point by public transport, take bus: 22, 26, or F, or Metro: J, K, L, M, T to Church station.
The Mission is one of the oldest parts of San Francisco, inhabited by Ohlone Indians for over 2,000 years before Spanish missionaries arrived in the mid-18th century. The area remained remote from the first center of town, Portsmouth Square, until the mid-1850s when large Irish and German working-class immigrant populations settled here. Another wave of development followed the 1906 earthquake, when the neighborhood welcomed displaced residents and businesses. The area’s Latin character began in the 1940s–60s with a growing Mexican community, who were joined in the 1980s and 1990s by immigrants and refugees fleeing Central and South America. Today, in addition to the Latino community, young hipsters and techies also call the Mission home. On weekends they swarm Dolores Park, and help kick off the boisterous nightlife scene in the neighborhood when the sun sets.
Stained glass window, Mission Dolores
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
MISSION DOLORES
Begin at the intersection of 16th and Dolores streets for Mission Dolores 1 [map], more formally known as Misión San Francisco de Asís (3321 16th Street; www.missiondolores.org; daily 9am–4pm; donation suggested). Built in 1776, this narrow adobe church was sixth in the chain of 21 Spanish missions that stretched 650 miles (1,000km) along the California coast from San Diego to northern California. Completed just days before the signing of the Declaration of Independence in 1776, it is the oldest intact building in the city. The church was dedicated to San Francisco de Assissi, but became known as Mission Dolores, probably because of the small lagoon on which it was built, Nuestra Señora de los Dolores.
Over the centuries the stout mission building’s 4ft (1m) -thick adobe walls have withstood numerous natural disasters. The original bells, cast in the 1790s, hang from leather thongs above the vestibule, and most of the original craftwork is intact. Carved Mexican altars stand at the head of the interior, and a restored ceiling is decorated with colorful Ohlone Indian designs. Outside, in the peaceful cemetery, over 5,000 Costanoan Native Americans are buried amidst traditional native trees, shrubs, flowers, and plants. With them are some of the first Californians and pioneers who gave their names to San Francisco streets, including Don Luis Antonio Arguello, the first governor of Alta California under Mexican rule.
Mission Dolores
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
16TH STREET
Walk east along arty 16th Street. Needles & Pens 2 [map] (No. 3253; www.needles-pens.com; daily noon–7pm) doubles up as an art gallery and purveyor of zines, art-books, locally made jewelry, and music. At No. 3245 sits Creativity Explored 3 [map] (www.creativityexplored.org; studio: Mon–Fri 8.30am–2.30pm, gallery: Mon–Fri 10am–3pm (Thur until 7pm), Sat–Sun noon–5pm), a nonprofit visual-arts center where artists with developmental disabilities create, exhibit, and sell art. Next up is The Roxie 4 [map] (No. 3117; www.roxie.com), an art-house cinema with a reputation for risk-taking programs − its roster of rare and experimental films are anything but mainstream. The larger auditorium is considered the second-oldest continually run cinema in the country.
The Baroque dome of the Mission High School
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
THE WOMEN’S BUILDING
For a burrito break, continue on 16th to Pancho Villa 1, then head south on Valencia Street. Turn right on 17th and then left on Dearborn, a charming residential block with a community garden. Ahead, across 18th Street is the Women’s Building 5 [map] (3543 18th Street; www.womensbuilding.org; daily 9am–5pm, additional evening hours vary), a “multi-ethnic, multi-cultural, multi-service center for women and girls,” with a bold and beautiful Maestra Peace mural on its outer walls.
Balmy Alley murals
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
El Capitan Theatre, Mission Street
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
MISSION DOLORES PARK
Head west along 18th Street and turn left on Guerrero Street to grab a coffee and some melt-in-your-mouth pastries at Tartine Bakery 2, or continue walking to reach the corner of 18th and Dolores and Mission Dolores Park 6 [map], one of the sunniest spots in the city and huge social scene on pleasant weekends. Frisky dogs and energetic ballplayers get their exercise, while picnickers sun themselves, flirt, and enjoy the city views (which are best at the corner near 20th and Church streets). Exit the park onto Dolores Street, head east on 19th Street, and then south back onto Valencia Street.
Enjoying the sun in Dolores Park
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
VALENCIA STREET
As the creative, eclectic center of the Mission, Valencia Street is filled with independent bookstores, quirky shops and thrift stores, and hip eateries and bars. Walk south on Valencia to Paxton Gate 7 [map] (No. 824; www.paxtongate.com), where you’ll find terrariums, taxidermy items, and other unconventional items inspired by gardens and natural sciences. Next door is 826 Valencia 8 [map] (www.826valencia.org; daily noon–6pm), a youth literary center co-founded by local literary talent Dave Eggers. Somewhat bizarrely, 826 Valencia also doubles as a Pirate Supply Store, filled with eye patches, message bottles, spyglasses, and other pirate paraphernalia. Continue on to Dog Eared Books (900 Valencia Street; www.dogearedbooks.com), a new and used bookstore specializing in Beat, off-beat, small press, and local literature. One block further takes you to Viracocha (998 Valencia Street; http://viracochasf.com), an antiques shop selling typewriters, books, and clothes.
MISSION STREET
Turn left on 22nd Street. If you need a break at this point, join the local artists and musicians at Revolution Café 3. Turn right on Mission Street, passing choice dinner spots such as Foreign Cinema 4, and casually hip cafés. Rougher around the edges than Valencia, Mission Street is lined with discount shops, outlets for inexpensive clothes, pawn brokers, Mexican grocery stores, bars, and diners. The numerous Art Deco marquees speak of a more prosperous time, but the street is still rich in culture, albeit rather less salubrious after dark. For a change of taste, pick up a slice of something sweet or savory at Mission Pie 5.
24th Street
Turn east on 24th Street, known as El Corazón de la Misión (the Heart of the Mission). The Latino culture for which the Mission is famous is especially evident in this area: in particular, the stretch of 24th Street from Mission to Folsom is lined with trees and peppered with taquerías, mural-adorned alleys, and art organizations.
A colorful Mission mural
Nowitz Photography/Apa Publications
Balmy Alley
Turn right onto Balmy Alley 9 [map], where murals depicting scenes from life in the Mission or in Central American villages cover almost every wall. Murals throughout the Mission − painted on bare walls, on buildings, and inside or outside restaurants − express its political consciousness as well as a deep connection to La Raza (the race, or the people). Guided tours of the murals in this area are conducted by the Precita Eyes Mural Arts and Visitors Center ) [map] (2981 24th Street; www.precitaeyes.org; center: Mon–Fri 10am–5pm, Sat 10am–4pm, Sun noon–4pm, tours: check website for details of walks currently offered; charge). It also offers lots of information about the Mission’s murals and a store that sells gifts and art supplies. A free Mission murals tour is also offered several times a month by San Francisco City Guides.
Galería de la Raza
Further along 24th Street is Galería de la Raza ! [map] (No. 2857; www.galeriadelaraza.org; Tue 1–7pm, Wed–Sat noon–6pm, but call to confirm hours; free), a mixed space for art and activism that celebrates Chicano and Latino art and culture. Founded in 1970, it is largely considered the most important Chicano art center in the country. You can now end the route with a satisfying meal at St Francis Fountain 5.
Food and Drink
1 Pancho Villa
3071 16th Street; tel: 864-8840; daily L and D; $
Here it is: the world-renowned San Francisco burrito. Pancho Villa is counter service only, and incredibly inexpensive. Have a late lunch and you will not need dinner.
600 Guerrero Street; tel: 487-2600; www.tartinebakery.com; daily B, L, and D; $
Locals drool over the eclairs, tarts, freshly baked bread and other treats from this small bakery and café. For something more substantial, try a croque-monsieur or a pressed sandwich, accompanied by wine or organic coffee.
3 Revolution Café
3248 22nd Street; tel: 642-0474; daily B, L, and D; $
This French-style café is a friendly gathering place for artists, musicians, and other bohemian types, who enjoy chatting in the down-to-earth atmosphere and, some nights, listening to live classical and jazz music while drinking wine and beer. Indoor and outdoor seating available.
4 Mission Pie
2901 Mission Street; tel: 282-1500; www.missionpie.com; daily B, L, and D; $
Banana cream, walnut, strawberry rhubarb, pear blueberry − the sweet pies at this corner café and bakery are just divine. For something savory, try their pot pies and galettes.
5 Foreign Cinema
2534 Mission Street; tel: 648-7600; www.foreigncinema.com; D daily, Br Sat–Sun $$$
Dinner and a movie gets a new spin at this popular, industrial-chic eatery. Innovative California cuisine can be enjoyed inside by the fire, or better yet, dine on the heated outdoor courtyard where movies are screened on a concrete wall.
6 St Francis Fountain
2801 24th Street; tel: 826-4200; daily B, L, and D; $$
Family-owned since 1918, this pink-walled 1940s-style soda fountain serves up classic ice cream desserts and house-made candy as well as hearty breakfasts, burger and sandwiches, and daily specials.