BACKPACKER® THE NATIONAL PARKS COAST TO COAST

This magnificent northern loop accesses the moose-filled Waterton Valley backcountry and finishes with a grand finale along the Highline Trail, a mere topographical line below the Continental Divide.

Rule number one when planning a hike through this iconic park: Let your ambition match the scenery. This giant route fits the bill, as it tours through some of Glacier's highest trails only to drop through basins teeming with (sometimes dangerous) wildlife. Start from Many Glacier's Ptarmigan Tunnel trailhead and ascend past waterfalls to the tunnel at 7,248 feet. Descend to Elizabeth Lake, and at mile 11.2 pass 50-foot Dawn Mist Falls. Continue to the wire-assisted crossing of Cosley Lake's outlet and camp at the lake.

The next day's 14.5-mile section passes Glenns Lake and enters a glacial runout en route to 6,908-foot Stoney Indian Pass at mile 23.1. Descend 600 feet in 0.8 mile to Stoney Indian Lake (with camping), then reach a T junction at mile 26.3. Turn right toward Kootenai Lake, and camp along this grouping of reedy ponds with resident moose. Head south to pick up the Highline Trail. Snake across mountainsides and under pine canopy to Fifty Mountain Pass at mile 35.7. Camp 1.3 miles later at the Fifty Mountain site.

The next day starts with 0.3 mile across tundra and climbs to 7,422 feet, just below the Continental Divide. Stay high, enjoying big views of the Livingston Range as you contour past Cattle Queen Creek and over Ahern Pass. Take a break at the historic Granite Park Chalet at mile 48.6. Continue up to 7,161-foot Swiftcurrent Pass. Descend through bighorn habitat, and bottom out at Swiftcurrent Creek. Then it's 3.9 lakeside miles back to Many Glacier.

DISTANCE: 55 miles

TIME REQUIRED: 5 days

DIFFICULTY: Strenuous

CONTACT: Glacier National Park, (406) 888-7800; nps.gov/glac

THE PAYOFF: Get up close with the park's remaining glaciers.

TRAILHEAD GPS: 48.797629, -113.678523

FINDING THE TRAILHEAD: The Apgar West Entrance is off US 2,160 miles from Missoula.

GPS: 48.797629, -113.678523 Trailhead. Bear right at the fork to begin a counterclockwise loop.

GPS: 48.822371, -113.713156 Stay right on the Ptarmigan Trail. Iceberg Lake Trail goes to the left.

GPS: 48.881740, -113.703709 Continue straight; the Red Pass Trail/Continental Divide Trail enters from the left.

GPS: 48.908319, -113.722778 Trail curves around 40-foot gusher Dawn Mist Falls, then descends to the pool below it.

GPS: 48.916139, -113.727272 Continue straight at the junction with the Belly River Trail.

GPS: 48.927350, -113.745456 Ford Cosley Lake's outlet (thigh-deep in September). In higher current (late spring and post-storm), use the guide wire for stability.

GPS: 48.927649, -113.746496 Go left at the junction. This area has high shrubs; stay on the alert for bears.

GPS: 48.926356, -113.759547 Turn left for a winding path to the Cosley Lake Campground.

GPS: 48.924991, -113.757177 Lakeside campsite at Cosley Lake. A nice communal kitchen area includes bear-bag lines. Obtain water from the lake itself.

GPS: 48.915114, -113.778448 Go left for camping at Glenns Lake. The loop continues to the right.

GPS: 48.888104, -113.814811 Bear right toward Indian Pass. In the next miles, you'll ascend above the Mokowanis River, with a series of waterfalls cascading over bedrock.

GPS: 48.881593, -113.865056 Stoney Indian Pass. Look southwest for the Shepard Glacier, and east to the summit of Stoney Indian.

GPS: 48.897611, -113.904851 Turn right at the T and hike to Kootenai Lakes campsites.

GPS: 48.926045, -113.902241 Kootenai Lakes backcountry site. Moose frequent this area. All of these campsites are rutted by rain and roots, but the first one (Immediately to the left as you get to the lake) is best.

GPS: 48.865301, -113.877258 Fifty Mountain Pass. On clear days, you can see what the name suggests.

GPS: 48.852626, -113.861629 Fifty Mountain back-country site. All sites are level, but slightly slanted.

GPS: 48.773301, -113.770907 Go right at the junction to visit the Granite Park Chalet, a Swiss-style lodge perched on a beautiful site, looking out to the Garden Wall.

GPS: 48.782952, -113.746265 Beautiful vista over Bullhead Lake toward Many Glacier.

GPS: 48.781056, -113.742771 The descent ends at a gravel bar on the Swiftcurrent River. Continue east on the Swiftcurrent Pass Trail to the trailhead marker.