BACKPACKER® THE NATIONAL PARKS COAST TO COAST

Piece together several trails and spurs for the best views and remote campsites in and above Yosemite Valley.

Despite Yosemite's belle-of-the-ball status among national parks, backpackers willing to put in an extra mile (or 20) can still find triple-A views and surprising solitude. This 31-mile shuttle hike is one of the best ways to do just that.

From the Rockslides trailhead, follow the now defunct roadbed of Old Big Oak Flat Road Trail. In the first few minutes, you'll see the shaved granite wall of El Capitan piercing the skyline. At mile 1.7, where a massive rockslide blocks the road, follow cairns uphill to the next intact section of roadbed. The upcoming 2.5 miles pass through dense manzanita; peek out at Bridalveil Falls, and end at a campsite near Cascade Creek.

Top off water bottles and backtrack 0.6 mile the next morning to North Rim Trail. Turn left and climb through sugar pines, contour around El Cap Gully, and take the 0.3-mile spur trail to the 7,569-foot granite prow of El Capitan. Backtrack and head northeast for 1.8 miles to another spur up 7,779-foot Eagle Peak. Swing north, then east to Yosemite Falls Trail. Turn right and hike south to end this big 12-mile day at your second campsite. Catch the sunset glow at a nearby overlook of Yosemite Falls, a high-decibel whitewater ribbon falling almost 2,400 feet.

On day three, see the sunrise from Yosemite Point (6,936 feet), then continue east for four miles to North Dome for a front-row view of the cleaved granite face of Half Dome. Hike north for 3.5 miles, passing a side trail to Indian Rock, a rare granite arch. In 3.8 miles, turn right onto Snow Creek Trail and camp on a gravel bench with oh-my-God views of Half Dome.

The last day, descend 100-plus switchbacks over 2,500 feet into Tenaya Canyon. Follow the north side of Tenaya Creek, pass Mirror Lake, and pick up the free park shuttle back to your car.

DISTANCE: 31 miles

TIME REQUIRED: 4 days

DIFFICULTY: Strenuous

CONTACT: Yosemite National Park, (209) 372-020; nps.gov/yose

THE PAYoFF Savor Yosemite's icons in solitude on a 4-day exploration

TRAILHEAD GPS: 37.7237756, -119.6448576

FINDING THE TRAILHEAD: To reach the unsigned Rockslides trailhead from Yosemite Village, take Valley Loop Road west to milepost 9 and park on the right, by the metal gate.

GPS: 37.726055, -119.646541 Junction. Stay on Old Big Oak Flat Road Trail, heading west onto faint roadbed.

GPS: 37.722934, -119.669493 Scramble uphill and northwest, over rockslide debris, following occasional cairns.

GPS: 37.722659, -119.674171 Rainbow View. This is where photographers take pictures of Bridalveil Falls: The angle produces rainbows.

GPS: 37.734272, -119.703684 Trail junction. Veer left to continue north to the first campsite.

GPS: 37.742078, -119.702954 Camp near Cascade Creek. The next day, backtrack to the junction and turn left.

GPS: 37.737700, -119.636908 Trail junction. Head south on the spur trail to the top of El Capitan.

GPS: 37.734069, -119.637551 El Capitan. Head back to the main trail and turn right to continue east.

GPS: 37.746060, -119.614806 Eagle Peak. Head back to the main trail and continue straight, trekking north on Snow Creek Trail.

GPS: 37.766474, -119.603090 Turn right (south) toward Yosemite Falls at the trail junction, staying on Snow Creek Trail.

GPS: 37.759655, -119.599013 Veer left at the Yosemite Falls Trail junction and continue just a bit farther east to the campsite.

GPS: 37.757348, -119.596868 In the morning, take this spur to the Yosemite Falls Overlook. Lots of hikers miss: The descent, carved out of the cliff, is hard to see unless you're looking for it. After, continue east on Snow Creek Trail.

GPS: 37.756432, -119.593134 Yosemite Point. Catch the morning sun here on day three. Backtrack to the main trail.

GPS: 37.769413, -119.574627 Trail junction. Follow the maintained Snow Creek Trail southeast.

GPS: 37.775522, -119.556527 Junction, spur trail leads to Indian Rock, a granite arch. Continue on North Dome/Snow Creek Trail.

GPS: 37.791337, -119.541292 Pretty little cascades. Swing south along Snow Creek.

GPS: 37.773191, -119.540091 Head right at the trail junction, to continue south along North Dome/Snow Creek Trail.

GPS: 37.770850, -119.540605 Hit Snow Creek Trail, head southeast to campsite.

GPS: 37.7697313-119.538717 Third campsite. Amazing, oh-my-God views of Half Dome and Clouds Rest. The next day, backtrack to main trail and turn left to switchback down into valley.

GPS: 37.759214, -119.539382 Turn right at junction with Tenaya Loop Trail, heading west to descend on the north side of Tenaya Creek.