These people are demonstrating how not to go about detecting. One of them has no headphones and they have no recovery tools, no gloves and the detectors are being waved about all over the place.
Metal detecting is a hobby of extremes. Some detectorists travel great distances, even going abroad, for the chance to detect on a choice site. They use incredibly sophisticated computer-controlled metal detectors and put enormous effort into research and cleaning their finds. Yet you can regularly see detectorists wearing old army clothing, jeans and trainers – indeed sometimes it looks as though they’ve put on anything that came to hand.
Every other hobby or leisure activity seems to have developed a ‘complete package’ when it comes to clothing and equipment. Can you imagine a racing driver wearing other than purpose-made fireproof clothing? Would a climber wear inappropriate clothing and boots when setting off for a day’s climbing? Even walkers and ramblers invest in purpose-made equipment, including boots and suitable clothing. Perhaps we can learn from these other activities.
A well-equipped walker and his kit. (Richard Gosnell)
BASIC ADVICE FOR WALKERS AND RAMBLERS
(with thanks to Richard Gosnell)
When out walking, always walk with a companion, since aggressive farmers are less likely to cause problems if you are not alone. This also applies to aggressive dogs. If you encounter trouble one of you can make a phone call for help while the other is dealing with the problem. The following list is the minimum that you should carry to deal with most eventualities:
- Rucksack
- Stout boots
- Water
- Penknife
- Secateurs (useful for snipping brambles and similar nuisances)
- First aid kit
- Mobile phone (always check that it is charged)
- GPS unit (and spare batteries)
- Magnetic compass
- Map and waterproof map case
Wearing a high visibility cap and vest means that a detectorist can easily be seen. This also gives a more ‘official’ appearance when on site and in the public eye.
CLOTHING
A brief description can cover only a few of the many possibilities available to those seeking high-quality clothing for outdoor activities. I shall start at the top and work down.
Headwear. A hat should have long peak to keep out any glare from the sun. It should be light or bright in colour, and preferably dayglo. This can help in locating you should you get into difficulties. In a hot climate you might consider a cap with an additional neck cover to avoid sunburn. A fleece tube neck warmer can help keep you warm in winter.
Few detectorists set out when it is raining, but if you do you will need a hat or cap of similar style but waterproof. Gun shops are an excellent source of ‘high visibility’ dayglo hats, skeet vests and other items of clothing intended for beaters, and these often have the advantage of being waterproof.
Underclothing. In winter you will want something made from a high-performance fabric that helps keep you warm. Look for natural fibres like silk and for designs that ‘wick’ away the moisture from perspiration.
Outer clothing. This should be suited to the season. In summer lightweight natural cotton materials take a lot of beating. In winter or cold weather some of the higher performance outdoor clothing made from modern materials like Gore-Tex is excellent, although it can be expensive. A good range of performance clothing at a price suited to more restricted budgets can be found in builders’ merchants or industrial workwear suppliers. Their comprehensive clothing ranges are made for tough environments and may have extra padding where it is needed, for example on the knees and the seat areas of the trousers. They sometimes also have the advantage of a generous cut to allow for bending and stretching. The reflective safety strips that are often fitted on the legs and jackets can be useful in an emergency should it be getting dark.
Rainwear. I would not recommend detecting in the rain since few detectors for use inland are waterproof. In addition, trying to walk and dig in a wet muddy field is hard messy work. If I am caught in a rain shower or storm, however, I have found that a waterproof cycling cape is best for maximum protection. Cycling shops should stock a range of them. The better type has a hood with a drawstring and a longer front designed to go out over the handlebars. This feature ensures that the detector is well covered from the rain. Those made from 100 per cent polyester can be folded up into a small pouch that is only the size of a drinks bottle. Many of the makes have a loop on the pouch so it can be carried easily on your equipment belt.
Footwear. The same advice applies as for outer clothing. Visit a reputable outdoor walking shop and get a pair of really comfortable boots with good ankle support. These are also frequently available with a Gore-Tex lining for added comfort. A ploughed field can be an easy place to break an ankle when wearing inappropriate footwear. Of course, if the ground is wet what you really need are good-quality Wellington boots.
If you go to an industrial clothing supplier for your footwear, you will be guaranteed plenty of good signals while out detecting – but probably not the ones you want. In order to meet health and safety regulations, work boots have to be made with steel toecaps. This warning also applies to other footwear: check for metal eyelets, lace ends or other metal trimmings.
Ancillary Equipment
The first item of equipment that you will require is something to help you carry and organize the many things we need with us. This could be a backpack, while some detectorists carry everything in the pockets of their clothing. Some of the variants of workers’ tool belts that have recently come on the market look as though they could be useful to the detectorist. The best solution to the problem that I have found, however, is to use military pattern webbing. This has the advantage that it has been battle proven. Troops regularly carry as much as 10kg of equipment around their waist. From our point of view the benefits are in the stability and distribution of the load we will be carrying. The best place to locate a supply of ex-military or police SWAT kit is via the Internet, where plenty of army surplus suppliers are listed.
When deciding what to buy, make a list of all the pockets or pouches you need. By way of example, and in no particular order, you will need to accommodate some or all of the following:
First aid kit
Mobile phone
GPS unit
Spare batteries (charged)
Marker flag
Knife, whistle, torch
Spares
Magnifying glass
Rain cape
Finds pouch
Junk pouch
Give the choice careful consideration; if you are not comfortable and settled while detecting you will miss those faint signals. One thing you need to take on board at an early stage is that a large part of detecting is about concentrating and interpreting the signals accurately.
There is a wide range of coil sizes available and dealers will make recommendations for your type of detecting.
Coils
Your machine will come with a standard size coil that is normally between 20cm and 25cm in diameter. These are good general-purpose coils, but the more experienced detectorist will probably acquire some of the other size coils available. Smaller coils (10–15cm in diameter) are used to winkle out good signals on sites that have a large amount of junk. Small coils can also be particularly useful in woods or forests, enabling you to get the coil between saplings and roots. The larger coils, which are typically up to 70cm in diameter, are useful when you want to cover large areas such as fields or beaches, but you should be aware that they can add considerably to the weight and therefore the strain on your arm.
Coil Covers
Coil covers are moulded plastic covers used to protect the underside of the coil from the cuts and scratches it receives as it is scuffed over the ground during the search sweep (or it should if you are detecting properly). They do not affect the performance of the detector in any way. They are essential to prevent expensive damage to the coil: a new coil can easily cost as much as £200.
A coil cover (here one made by Minelab) is a wise investment that will save you money over the years.
With headphones you get what you pay for, so spend as much as you can afford on purpose-made examples.
Headphones
Buy the very best headphones that you can afford. Using high-quality headphones can enhance a low-cost detector’s performance. On the other hand, detecting with a top quality detector but making do with budget-priced headphones will result in many signals of a faint or weak nature being missed.
The superior headphones best suited for the hobby are all based on good-quality ear defenders. This ensures that any external noise sources caused by wind or traffic, for example, will be blanked out. Make sure that the headphones you buy are constructed using solid-state components that ensure high-performance sound reproduction in field conditions. At the time of writing headphones of this standard are likely to cost in excess of £60.
A good-quality bag will protect your machine from knocks and bangs. This example is fitted with a thermal lining.
Carry Bag
It is prudent to use a protective soft, shower-proof bag to transport your detector. When you may have spent perhaps as much as £1,000 on your detector it is of utmost importance that it is protected from shocks and external damage. This will ensure optimum performance in the field. Dealers should be able to supply one to suit your machine.
Many Detectorists see ancillary equipment as an unimportant part of the hobby. However, if you are going to be successful you need the ‘complete package’. A good detector on its own is not enough.