Prior to 1492, the eastern US was heavily forested, supporting all forms of wildlife. Now, with much habitat disrupted and lost, birds suffer, some dramatically so.
“Forests precede civilizations; deserts follow.”
—UNKNOWN
“The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The second best time is now.”
—DAMBISA MOYO, Zambian economist
Like people, not all birds like the same foods or prefer the same restaurants. You know the score: A wide range of restaurants attracts a wide range of diners. If folks find they enjoy the area for other reasons—good housing, good schools, suitable shops, adequate services—they may move in.
Likewise, a wide range of vegetation attracts a wide range of birds. If birds find they enjoy the area for other reasons—good shelter, good nest sites, suitable nesting materials, adequate water—they may move in. Trees help provide that wide range of food, not only for the insects trees support or the seeds and berries they produce, but by their height. As crazy as it may sound, some birds simply prefer to hang out, forage, and nest in high canopy. They just like it up there, safe from ground-level predators and away from ground-feeding species. Perhaps reduced competition at the high-rise buffet makes more pleasant—and maybe more nutritious—avian dining. But we mere humans have to crane our necks something fierce to see them up there.
Here’s another way to think about how trees affect your birdscape. Try to imagine the surface of a tree spread flat across the ground. For instance, a tree 50 feet tall and 20 feet in diameter, spread across the ground, would cover almost 3,800 square feet! That means, in essence, that if you have a quarter-acre lot (10,890 square feet), that tree increases surface habitat by about one-third! Of course, birds forage all through the tree, not just on the surface; but still, that’s one-third additional surface area for birds to forage, find insects, nest, and find shelter. What a terrific—and inexpensive—way to increase your space, by going up, not out. No further land purchase, no legal fees, no insurance premium increase, and no additional taxes!
The natural cycle of a tree reaching old growth to death and its ultimate decay also dramatically impacts birds. To put it simply, trees introduce and continue to host a variety of micro biomasses. The older a tree gets, the more it changes, resulting in more birds, more bird droppings, more insect masses, more cover, more nesting. Then as the tree ages, still more insects find homes in the trunk and the tree becomes its own ecosystem. What a wonderful addition to your bird habitat!
Even when trees suffer damage or ultimately die, they continue to serve Mother Nature’s plan, becoming her nursery and grocery store—a nursery for bug babies and a grocery store for birds that eat the bugs in all their forms. A sketchy description of how it all works goes something like this:
Insects such as long-horned beetles and round-headed, metallic, and other borers tuck their eggs in amid the crevices of the now-decaying bark. As the larvae develop, they chew tunnels under the bark and drill holes into the heartwood. Woodpeckers, keenly equipped to hear the larvae munching their way through the tree, zero in on the activity, and with their exceedingly long tongues, enjoy a larvae lunch. Of course, many larvae—well, probably most larvae—escape the woodpeckers’ attack, and they continue with their tunneling activities. As they bore, they pack tunnels with frass, otherwise known as caterpillar poop. (There’s a winning word for your next Scrabble game!) Because caterpillars do nothing other than eat and poop, the frass is ultimately pushed out of the tunnels, sometimes “raining” down from dead tree branches. What doesn’t rain down often accumulates on bark, appearing as a sawdust-like “filler” in the wrinkles of the bark’s surface.
A Red-headed Woodpecker forages on a decaying tree trunk, the frass visible in the wrinkles of the bark.
But wait! Don’t wrinkle your nose. It’s a good thing! The frass provides massive nutrients to the ground below, enriching the soil for seedlings that may sprout from the now-dead tree—or, for that matter, seedlings from anything else. From the dead and dying, new vegetation is fertilized to provide for the next generation. Isn’t that another amazing natural cycle!
And still the cycle goes on. Beetles, which are not only the most numerous species of insects, but also the most widespread among deadwood inhabitants, can now deposit their eggs in the crumbling deadwood, availing themselves of the ready passageways. Simultaneously, wild bees, wasps, and various fly and midge maggots dine on the fungi and bacteria that are “eating” on the deadwood. In turn, the beetles, wasps, and maggots create additional tasty meals for yet more and bigger bugs—all of them, large and small, prime targets for foraging birds. The onetime vital shade tree, now dead and decaying. becomes one-stop shopping for insect-hunting woodpeckers, nuthatches, creepers, and the like.
Incidentally, many beetles are tree-specific scavengers, so what joins the avian menu for decaying oaks, for instance, will be different from those on the menu for decaying pines or birches.
Once the beetles move in, the ants aren’t far behind, surely to the delight of Northern Flickers that consider ants the equivalent of filet mignon. Meanwhile, wood-boring caterpillars, the immature stages of several kinds of moths (although the moths are rarely seen), may show up as well. Ah, talk about top-of-the-line baby food for all those nestlings!
As decay advances, woodpeckers will have hammered out cavities, nested, and left the single-use nurseries up for grabs by other creatures, including other cavity-loving birds that can’t chisel out their own—like chickadees, titmice, bluebirds, Wood Ducks, Screech Owls, and Great-crested Flycatchers. Other critters may also move in to abandoned woodpecker sites, including squirrels and perhaps even bats. Eventually, when the trunk collapses (or when you leave a log lying in some out-of-the-way place), it deteriorates to become the home for newts, salamanders, toads, lizards, and others using it for cover and hibernation. Still more diversity for the yard!
Sadly, chain-saw-happy folks tend to disrupt Mother Nature’s clever cycle and remove such trees, even when they pose no danger to anyone or anything. Instead, should you face such a situation, consider cutting the tree to a snag, leaving the trunk and perhaps a few limbs to incorporate the nursery and grocery store into your own yard. That’s what we did at our house, and what a delight the old snag has become! All seven of our area woodpeckers as well as White-breasted Nuthatches and Brown Creepers make routine visits to the snag, many of them daily.
When a decaying 50-year-old tulip tree (Liriodendron) threatened the house, the tree guys cut only the parts that caused risk and girdled the trunk to prevent sprouting. In less than a year, the snag attracted woodpeckers and nuthatches daily, proving the tree’s value as Mother Nature’s nursery and grocery store.
Trees serve multiple advantages for people, too. Their leafy canopies provide shade, reduce air-conditioning bills, filter harsh sunlight streaming in windows, clean pollutants from the air, turn carbon dioxide into oxygen, and slow runoff, as leaves hold rainwater long after raindrops cease to fall. Their roots stabilize topsoil. A reasonably well-placed tree increases property value, enhances neighborhood biodiversity, and aids privacy. Oh, and did I mention? Trees serve as magnificent bird feeders.
So as you situate native trees to serve your birds, locate them to also benefit you and your home. Evergreens anywhere shelter birds, but those arrayed on the north and west sides of your home cut your heating and cooling bills, standing as windbreaks from prevailing northerly and westerly winter winds, and offering shade against summer’s heat. Likewise, deciduous trees anywhere feed and shelter birds in summer; but situated on the east and south sides of your home, they bestow summer shade, cutting air-conditioning bills, yet still allow weak winter sun shining through bare limbs to reduce maybe at least by a smidgen the winter heating bills.
So with that little bit of tree biology, let’s get started with Step 1 of the Five-Step Plan.
Step 1: Choose a tree. Or two. Or more.
Unless trees are already a part of your landscape, your most important decision will be choosing a tree or two or more. Even if your landscape already includes a tree or more, if an oak is not among them, you may want to consider an addition.
That being said, begin developing your planting plan by choosing a tree from among the lists in this chapter. Trees add more habitat in a single specimen than anything else you can plant. A tree will also be the largest landscape piece in your yard, so it should be selected with care. Unless yours is a pots-and-patio garden, choose at least one tree for your site. For the best bird-friendly habitat, if you can plant only one tree, make that single choice some kind of oak. If yours is a mini yard, consider the small oaks on the list. There’s good reason for my making such a strong assertion. We’ll explain shortly. Now, though, let’s think about some issues you should consider in choosing the tree or trees right for your yard.
Leaf litter, especially oak, holds the key to winter survival for many birds, including White-throated Sparrows.
As anchors for most landscaping, tree choices merit considerable attention. Trees aren’t something you plant on a whim. Most trees are big, so only a few—maybe only one—can grow successfully in a small yard. Trees are also generally slow-growing, relatively long-lived, and, once mature, not easily removed. So choosing the right tree for the right location in the right soil under the right growing conditions that will also feed the birds—well, it requires making a commitment. And it takes a bit of homework.
We’ve done much of the homework for you, so your choices will be more easily made—whether yours is a pots-and-patio garden, a mini yard, a mid-sized yard, or a super-sized yard.
Consider your situation.
If you’ve recently moved into a new home and are starting with a blank landscape canvas, trees are the initial plantings. Or instead, you may live where at least some landscaping is already deeply rooted, maybe even fully established, but may now be looking to add or substitute native plants in order to build a better birdscape. Should one of the changes be the addition of a native tree?
One of my favorite mantras bears repeating: If you’re still mowing lawn, you have room to plant. That may well include planting one or more additional trees in an already landscaped plot. Some trees, for instance, because of their slow growth or compact size, could almost pass as shrubs. They’re not 100-foot giants that shade the entire backyard. In fact, they may be understory trees like dogwoods or redbuds that prefer to grow under those giants—a clever way to expand your yard’s biodiversity. In that case, we may have options for you that will serve both you and the birds—and serve well!
Let’s say you have the necessary space to add a tree or two or three either to a blank-canvas yard or to improve the diversity of vegetation in your already partially planted space. Begin the decision-making process by referring to your completed yard map, looking especially at what’s around the neighborhood. If the folks two doors down have red maples, give serious thought to something different, whether it be deciduous or evergreen. If the folks across the road have several American holly trees, consider an alternate berry-producing choice. Birds know no human-recognized boundaries, so again, diversity applies to the neighborhood as well as to your yard. You know the score: The more diverse the neighborhood plantings, the more diverse the birds that live there. Compare the following two illustrations that represent some suburban neighborhoods and how the lack of diversity in such neighborhoods can be dramatically improved.
Obviously, however, house size relative to lot size typically puts constraints on landscape choices, especially when it comes to trees, and that may ultimately be the determining factor in your choice(s).
Even the most finicky among us, however, will find many choices among the following selections, each of which passes muster for all three of these requirements:
1. They must be natives, native varieties, or native cultivars.
2. They must provide at least one food source for birds.
3. They must be suitable for attractive landscaping.
Unless your neighborhood hosts a dramatically lopsided array of deciduous over evergreen trees or vice-versa, you’ll do well to consider both deciduous and evergreen trees for your birdscape. But again, if you have space or the budget for only one, choose a deciduous tree and make it an oak.
Oaks (Quercus spp.) support more Lepidoptera species than any other kind of tree; so resident and migrant birds alike, including this Northern Parula, often forage for bugs among the leaves.
Among Trees, What’s the Difference
between a VARIETY and a CULTIVAR?
In Chapter 3 we differentiated between standard plants and those called “varieties” and “cultivated varieties,” or “cultivars,” and we ranked them for their attractiveness to birds. Those definitions—and rankings of poor, good, better, best—apply equally to trees.
Maybe the differences sound a bit nitpicky, but the pickiness helps clarify why varieties and cultivars often make perfectly good sense in a native birdscape. Horticulturalists and biologists explain that a cultivated change in characteristics like shape or autumn leaf color, for instance, does not alter the genotype for insect hosting. Since a cultivar carries the same chemical composition as the standard species, insects find cultivars as suitable as host plants as they do the standard. From a bird lover’s perspective, then, feel comfortable choosing a standard (best choice), a variety (better choice), or a cultivar (good choice) that best suits your landscaping needs.
Berry production, however, might be a different story. Some native trees (and shrubs, for that matter) cultivated for more compact size, for example, may also produce far fewer berries than do the standard. It’s worth checking before you buy.
Hybrids are definitely a different story, though, and rank poor for providing insect food for birds. Probably better to skip them if you’re going native. Having said that, I would be remiss if I did not point out that hybrid trees do often occur naturally. More on that later.
If your space is mid-sized or super-sized, and if budget permits, choose two trees. Choose one deciduous tree, preferably some kind of oak, and then make the other choice evergreen.
If your space is large and sparsely planted—or if you’re starting with a blank landscape canvas—if budget permits, choose three trees. Select a towering oak, pick an evergreen, and then add another deciduous species, one other than oak.
A Dark-eyed Junco finds shelter—a bit of warmth from a weak sun and protection from the wind—amid snow-covered branches of a hemlock tree (Tsuga canadensis).
Finally, given space, choose several small trees, perhaps planted in a cluster, for added benefits to your birdscape.
Here’s how to choose, no matter the size of your yard or garden:
Consider: With your yard map in hand, which tree—or which kinds of trees—are absent from your yard and neighborhood? Is there an absence of oak? Are there no evergreens? Is there a dearth of native trees? The species you add will further the entire area’s biodiversity; and the more diverse the vegetation, the more diverse the bird populations. But you know that.
Consider: What is your planting zone? Choose a tree that will thrive in your zone. To find your zone, check online at http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov.
Consider: What are your soil conditions? Sandy? Clayey? Acidic? Wet? Arid? Not all trees native to your state will grow well in your bioregion or specific location. Check before you buy. If you have questions, consult your local arborist or county extension agent.
Consider: What is the likely mature size of the tree, both height and spread? A 5-foot sapling in a 3-gallon pot can expand into an incredible 80-foot tree shading a 50-foot spread at maturity. Allow for growing needs. Check your yard map to be sure your choice fits your space.
Consider: What size limits do you have for trees in your yard? If yours is a pots-and-patio garden, you’ll of course look to container-growing dwarfs. For either the pots-and-patio garden or a mini yard, search the special lists for micro species found on pages 86, 95–97, and 104–6. And if yours is a super-sized yard, for sure choose at least one oak. It’s the super-sized-quality bird feeder. Then, given acreage, fill in with a mix of bird-friendly deciduous and coniferous/other evergreen trees.
More than 25 species of birds and wildlife feed on the seeds of sweetgum (Liquidambar styraciflua), a tree with lovely autumn foliage and dramatic “gumballs.”
Consider: What do you most enjoy about trees? If you love autumn color, choose a deciduous tree recognized for its foliage. If you object to falling leaves, focus on evergreen trees.
To make your final choices, consult this chapter’s lists of oaks, other deciduous, and evergreen trees. And remember that for mini yards, peruse the list of micro choices.
With these generalities in mind, to help you make your final choices, let’s zero in on deciduous trees. Then we’ll turn our attention to coniferous and other evergreen trees.
Deciduous trees are those that lose their leaves in winter. Come spring, when they again leaf out, deciduous trees also bloom. The blossoms may be showy or so inconspicuous that you miss them entirely. Resulting seeds may also be plentiful or nearly unnoticeable. Both features, flowers and seeds, have a certain effect on a deciduous tree’s value to birds. Mostly, though, the value of trees in birdscaping is all about bugs.
Aside from birdscaping, from a homeowner/landscaper perspective, deciduous tree choice is typically based on the tree’s growth pattern, shape, and size; leaf shape and size; blossoms, fruits, or cones; and/or fall foliage. Or folks may nix certain trees for some of the same reasons—too slow-growing, too susceptible to wind damage, too irregularly shaped, leaves too large, too few showy blossoms, too many cones, too little autumn splendor.
For attracting birds, oak trees rank so high—far and above any other tree species, deciduous or evergreen—that they merit their own section here among deciduous trees. And there’s good reason: Virtually all kinds of oaks—ones native to your area—host a higher number of insect species than any other native tree.
About 25 years ago, I remember posting a query to a listserv to which hundreds of bird-ers subscribed. My question was simple and straightforward: In what kind of tree or shrub do you typically find the most birds? The overwhelming response was unwavering: oak. Not only did the majority of responders name oak as their first target site for seeing birds, but second-place targets were so scattered that responders had no clear second choice. At the time, I don’t think any of us understood exactly why, and there was no published data to explain. We just knew birds foraged in oaks. Often. And regularly.
Acorn at the ready, a male Red-bellied Woodpecker prepares to cache his treasure, bracing for leaner times. Many bird species depend on oak mast for winter nutrition.
Red Oak OR
White Oak?
The Quercus family includes two groups of oaks, designated as red oaks and white oaks. To compound the confusion, the red oak group is sometimes referred to as the black oak group. Go figure. But the real concern for birdscaping is obvious: Does it matter which you plant? In terms of their respective support for bugs in all forms, probably not. But here are some general comparisons of the two:
Red oak leaves are pointed. Typically red oaks produce smaller, lighter acorns than do white oaks, but production occurs only every other year. In terms of nourishment, however, red oak acorns contain more protein, fat, and calories than white oak acorns. On the flip side, red oak acorns are also higher in fiber and tannins, and that makes them harder to digest. As a result, red oak acorns are generally less desirable to animals.
White oak leaves are rounded. Typically, white oaks produce fairly large, heavy acorns and do so every year. Although white oak acorns contain less protein, fat, and calories than do red oak acorns, because the white oak acorns are easier to digest, they tend to be consumed more regularly by wildlife than red oak acorns.
About the Lists
The tree lists in this chapter represent limited selections. Since the purpose of this book is to help readers narrow the hundreds of choices to the most suitable ones, the trees in this chapter’s lists are restricted by the following four criteria:
1. The selected trees are, according to the United States Department of Agriculture Plant Database (online at www.plants.usda.gov), native to states listed. Note, however, that while a plant may be native in your state, it may not be native to every part of your state and certainly not to every eco-region. The USDA Plant Database maps provide county-by-county details.
2. The selected trees are attractive to birds for multiple reasons, meeting their needs for food, shelter, and/or nesting.
3. The selected trees are easily grown, well behaved, and suitable for landscaping in various settings, as described.
4. The selected trees are more readily available than other, perhaps similar, natives.
5. The selected trees grow most successfully when planted in their respective designated hardiness zones. To find your zone, check online at http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/.
When making your choices, consider soil texture, moisture, slope, and exposure to light. Your planting zone and eco-region combined will determine suitable growing conditions in your yard.
Always plant according to mature plant size relative to available space. Estimated height and spread sizes shown here are for mature trees, meaning, of course, that full size could be 30 years or more down the road. For advice specific to your locale, consult your local arborist.
Our observations were recently confirmed by research published by Douglas Tallamy, which shows that a mature oak may host as many as 530 or so Lepidoptera insect species while, by comparison, an introduced Asian ginkgo tree (Ginkgo biloba) may host only three. If to feed the birds we must first feed the bugs, it’s fairly obvious why oaks carry such importance in developing superior birdscaping in your yard.
Almost all birds find something attractive about oaks, from Northern Cardinals to the 40-something wood warblers, from every woodpecker species to nuthatches. Blue Jays and Red-bellied Woodpeckers carry off and cache the acorns; Cedar Waxwings and orioles eat the buds; migrating warblers feast on insects attracted by oaks’ early blossoms; and virtually every songbird turns to oaks for the bugs to feed their babies. Once oaks have reached maturity, hawks find them suitable for nesting; and in the right location, Bald Eagles may raise their families in the extended, spreading arms of a massive old oak—although not likely in your yard!
About 70 species of oak are native to the US. Mostly, oaks are big trees—tall, wide, sturdy, and handsome. If you have a mid-sized or super-sized yard, you’ll find one or more oaks a dramatic addition to your landscape. Their spreading branches build a shady parklike yard and, located in the right spot, cast shade on your house. We’ve chosen 10 of the most landscape-friendly for your consideration.
Oaks for Mid-Sized to Super-Sized Yards
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| Oaks | Quercus spp. | As genus, most effective deciduous tree species for feeding birds | As specified by species below |
| Northern white oak | Q. alba | Often to 80' tall, up to 80' spread; most widespread species of white oak group; moist, well-drained soil; deep taproot; attractive; commonly cultivated | Eastern US Zones 3–9 |
| Swamp white oak (see also Q. bicolor micro cultivar, below) | Q. bicolor | To 70' tall, 60' spread; tolerates wet, dry; needs acidic soil; easily transplanted since lacks taproot; commonly cultivated | Eastern US except GA and FL Zones 3–8 |
| Southern red oak | Q. falcata | To 90' tall, 50' spread; common in dry to sandy uplands; not commonly cultivated | Eastern US except MN, WI, IA, MI, and east of NY Zones 6–9 |
| Chinkapin oak (white oak group) (see also Q. muehlenbergii micro cultivar, below) | Q. muehlenbergii | 40–50' tall, 50–70' spread; deep taproot; tolerant of various soils and settings | Eastern US except NH and ME Zones 5–7 |
| Pin oak (red oak group) (see also Q. palustris micro cultivar, below) | Q. palustris | 50–70' tall, 40–60' spread; low maintenance; very commonly cultivated; choose other species to positively impact diversity | Eastern US except MN, LA, AL, FL, SC, VT, and NH Zones 4–8 |
| Willow oak (red oak group) | Q. phellos | 40–75' tall, 25–50' spread; tough tree adapted to urban conditions; commonly cultivated in yards and towns | Eastern US except MN, WI, IA, IN, WV, and east of NY Zones 5–9 |
| Northern red oak | Q. rubra | 50–75' tall, 50–75' spread; common, widespread; fast-growing, stately; commonly cultivated | Eastern US except FL Zones 4–8 |
| Shumard oak (red oak group) | Q. shumardii | 40–60' tall, 30–40' spread; fastgrowing, adaptable, drought resistant, withstands short-term flooding; uncommon in cultivation | Eastern half US except MN, WI, IA, and east of NY Zones 5–9 |
| Black oak (red oak group) | Q. velutina | 50–60' tall, 50–60' spread; common in well-drained, mesic to dry soils; uncommon in cultivation | Eastern US Zones 3–9 |
| Live oak (white oak group) | Q. virginiana | 40–80' tall; 60–100' spread; from upland open woods to low wetland edges, including salt-marsh edges; common in cultivation; can be evergreen in southernmost locations | Coastal states from NC through LA Zones 8–10 |
On the other hand, if yours is a mini yard, you’ll most likely want to choose oak cultivars that are narrow, columnar, or even dwarf. We’ve listed those, too, in the second table.
If you find a native oak species at your local nursery that tickles your fancy but isn’t listed here, do the homework before you make the purchase. Check the online USDA Plant Database to learn where the tree is native and what characteristics it has that may help you make an informed decision.
The following 10 native oak species, arranged alphabetically by scientific name, should be the springboard from which to begin your decision-making. Then update your yard map by penciling in the diameter(s) of your chosen tree(s) and identifying it/them by name.
As noted earlier, oaks are so important for bird habitat that, if you can plant only one tree, it should be some kind of oak. For smaller yards—or even for large yards in which you want a variety of oak species near the house—consider one of the following “micro” cultivars. These trees may reach significant height, but their spread is small. Thus, they will fit readily into narrow spaces common among suburban lots.
Oak Micro Cultivars for Mini Yards>
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| Swamp white oak ‘Bonnie and Mike’ (‘Beacon’) | Q. bicolor ‘Bonnie and Mike’ | 40' tall, 15' spread; tightly columnar; urban adaptable; dense green foliage, good fall yellow color | Cultivar Zones 3–8 |
| Chinkapin oak ‘Prairie Pioneer’ (white oak group) | Q. muehlenbergii ‘Prairie Pioneer’ | Dwarf, 24–28' tall, 16–24' spread; oval shape; in spring, covered in small yellow drooping flower spikes; extremely cold tolerant; grows best in rich, well-drained soil in full sun | Dwarf cultivar Zones 5–7 |
| Pin oak ‘Green Pillar’ (Pringreen) (red oak group) | Q. palustris ‘Pringreen’ | Over time can reach 50' tall, 12–15' spread; columnar tree with nearly vertical branches; ½" oval acorns; scarlet red foliage in fall | Variety Zones 4–8 |
If limited space or budget restricts you to a single tree, we’ve already suggested that you aim for oak. However, since no one wants a monoculture of oaks in the yard or neighborhood, let’s take a look at other really good deciduous insect hosts. The two deciduous tree species hosting the highest number of insects beyond oaks are black cherry (Prunus spp.) and willows (Salix spp.). These and other excellent bird-friendly trees are described here.
A migrant bird magnet with a delightful double whammy, wild black cherry opens in spring with its sweet, very early blossoms serving flocks of insects that must look like a royal feast to birds. I’ve had as many as eight warbler species simultaneously foraging through our fragrant wild black cherry branches. That alone makes the tree a top contender for a blue ribbon in my yard; but then in midsummer, when the tiny cherries ripen, the second wave of birds flocks in. From the comfort of my lawn chair, I can watch six species of woodpeckers along with jays, cardinals, orioles, waxwings, and finches snacking on dangling berries. Heavily laden branches seem to quiver with activity.
While a wild black cherry tree may not have the graceful elegance for a front-yard specimen, consider it for the back or side yards. And once a wild black cherry produces fruit and birds indulge in the delicacy, you can expect seedlings to sprout where birds have eliminated the seeds. While seedlings tend to come up along fences (because birds were perched there when they pooped), they are easily transplanted during early stages. Share the extras with your friends! Or sell them at the next neighborhood native plant sale.
A female House Finch feasts on midsummer berries in wild black cherry (Prunus serotina).
Willows are a virtual tie with black cherries when it comes to serving as an insect host. Unfortunately, while willows are fast-growing, they are also somewhat brittle, making them susceptible to splitting from ice or wind. Be warned too that willows most often found in landscapes are almost always nonnative—like weeping willow and white willow, both Asian. So the low blow is that the only truly native willow tree is black willow or the more rangy sand willow. But hooray! Other suitable native willow landscape choices come in the form of shrubs (see more about Salix shrubs in Chapter 6, page 129). These small-form willows work well as edging, especially in damp or wet areas.
So whether you choose a tree or a shrub, willows support so many insects that they’re virtual meccas for migrating wood warblers—and the wood warblers are hands-down the loveliest eye candy for any springtime bird-watcher. Almost all migrants, however, are looking for insects; so beyond warblers, count on also seeing the likes of thrushes, grosbeaks, and vireos. Of course, year-round resident birds like cardinals, chickadees, titmice, and wrens will feast as well. And you’ll thrill to the corollary: Because willows are highly attractive to bees, expect to find Summer Tanagers in the area, feasting on them!
Willows (Salix spp.) support several Lepidoptera species, thus satisfying many birds, like this male Yellow Warbler, a few caterpillars in his bill.
And, yes—there’s more: Since willows serve as host plants to numerous butterfly species, they support numerous caterpillars that, in turn, serve as top-notch protein sources for birds to feed their babies. That’s not to mention the butterflies in your yard, including red-spotted purple, viceroy, eastern tiger swallowtail, and mourning cloak, to name a few. An all-around winner!
Use caution, however, when siting willows. Because of their far-reaching root system, they can crawl their way into drain lines and clog them—never a good situation.
A trademark of early spring, flowering dogwood blossoms attract insects which, in turn, attract numerous birds, especially migrants. But the real attraction—and action—comes with the dogwood’s fall red berries. The lipid-rich berries ripen just in time for southbound migrants to fatten up on the calories.
One day in our yard, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks feeding on our flowering dogwood berries were joined in a breathtaking array by most of the thrush family: American Robin, Eastern Bluebird, Swainson’s Thrush, Gray-cheeked Thrush, Hermit Thrush—but, alas, no Veery. Seemed like the thrush family reunion! Woodpeckers, however, more than made up for the missing Veery. Downy, Hairy, Red-bellied, even the Pileated Woodpecker also came to feed, the Pileated’s weight pulling branches dangerously low. But I certainly didn’t mind! Nothing like a Woody Woodpecker–like critter hanging out among the thrushes. It was a crazy day in the yard that I’ll never forget—thanks to those flowering dogwood berries.
A female Pileated Woodpecker dangles at the end of flowering dogwood twigs (Cornus florida) to snatch the nutritiously rich berries.
Among the many maple species, boxelder earns buggy attention from birds. I have no idea how many species of warblers I’ve watched foraging among boxelder branches, but the short list includes Prothonotary, Black-throated Blue, and Yellow Warblers as well as American Redstarts, all of them gleaning little green caterpillars from among the leaves. When given a chance to join the fray, our Carolina Chickadees, Tufted Titmice, and Carolina Wrens take their more-than-fair share. I can’t argue with the fun I’ve had, although I’d likely not plant the boxelder in my front yard. It tends to be a bit leaning, usually multi-trunked, and wants moist soils. It’s most happy near water—stream, pond, or marshy spot—so it would work well if your yard abuts a retention pond or you enjoy the luxury of a waterfront lot.
A male Black-throated Blue Warbler pops up, bug in beak, while foraging in boxelder (Acer negundo).
Red maple and sugar maple rank high among homeowners for their lovely autumn foliage, but bugs and birds love them as well. In fact, because maples bloom very early, their blossoms are among the first to feed birds teetering on the edge of survival after winter food supplies have vanished. Since blossoms hold the plant embryo, they carry significant nutrition for starving birds. No sooner than the weather warms, however, maples burst with protein. According to Tallamy’s research, maples host 285 species of Lepidoptera insects. That means not only do maples host a dandy supply of caterpillars, but the moth and butterfly eggs hidden in the bark feed woodpeckers, nuthatches, and creepers. For your mini yard or even mid-sized yard, look to small cultivars of these handsome trees.
Functioning mostly as understory, red mulberry trees prefer some shade, but that doesn’t prevent birds from rushing to the early summer fruits. Our mulberry trees boast quite a list of fruit lovers: both Scarlet and Summer Tanagers, all of the thrush family, all of the woodpeckers, Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Blue Jays, Northern Cardinals, both Baltimore and Orchard Orioles, finches, Gray Catbirds, Northern Mockingbirds—what a list! They barely wait for the berries to ripen, so even though the fruits make great jams and jellies, I rarely manage to sneak more than a few sweet morsels for eating fresh. The birds take all!
LEAVING
Leaves
With deciduous trees comes the issue of autumn’s falling leaves. You’re center with the decision: To rake or not to rake.
Here’s the deal: In late summer, butterflies, skippers, and moths lay their eggs under leaves and in bark crevices. When leaves fall, Mother Nature intends them to stay on the ground, safely harboring next year’s butterfly crop. Raking up all the leaves means disrupting the nursery, destroying eggs and babies. By extension, it’s also destroying birds’ wintertime protein, a key to their very survival.
In spring, many songbirds also rely on leaves for a portion of their nest construction. You wouldn’t want them to come up short on the building materials list and be forced to build elsewhere, would you?
So in the fall, be nice. Leave some leaves. Rake them under the shrubs. Blow them against a back fence. Pile them in a corner. Do it for the butterflies. Do it for the birds.
Beware, however, there’s sometimes confusion between native red mulberry and the Asian white mulberry, an invasive plant common in urban areas. The confusion arises because both plants have red berries—and the two plants often hybridize. But our native so-called red mulberries, when fully ripe and juicy, are dark purple, almost black. Unfortunately, at our house, the birds rarely give the red mulberries time to fully ripen. They’re way too eager to lap ’em up!
Probably my single favorite native yard tree is southern bald cypress. No, I don’t live in a swamp; and it’s always a surprise to unknowing folks that bald cypress trees will thrive almost anywhere. They form beautiful pyramidal silhouettes, lovely in the landscape. Birds scour the feather-like deciduous leafy branches for insects in spring, so I’ve tallied Black-throated Green Warblers, Yellow-throated Warblers, Northern Parulas, Chestnut-sided Warblers, Yellow Warblers, Tennessee Warblers, Nashville Warblers, White-eyed Vireos—so many spring migrants feeding there. And because cypress trees have “shreddy” fibrous bark, Northern Cardinals in my yard almost always include strips of cypress bark in the foundations of their nests. Oh—and one other tidbit: One tree in particular has become a favorite daytime roost for the neighborhood Barred Owl. Gotta love any tree for that!
A bald cypress tree (Taxodium distichum) attracts a fall migrating Magnolia Warbler with its ample supply of bugs.
American basswood, also called American linden, hosts 150 species of insects, including caterpillars; so with this tree, you can count on butterflies in your yard! Furthermore, linden flowers hum with bees in late spring. I’m told the honey from these trees is downright gourmet! Even so, just knowing how our tanagers love bees and how 96 percent of songbirds feed their babies bugs, it’s hard to think of this tree as anything other than terrific. Nicely conically shaped, it’s relatively slow-growing so can nestle comfortably for years in mid-sized and perhaps even mini yards.
Fast growers, tulip trees form to a lovely shape. Unfortunately, that rapid growth pattern also makes them somewhat brittle. By the time they’re 50 years old, they’re susceptible to wind damage. Still, after watching Baltimore Orioles bury their faces in the blossoms to find spring’s first nectar, tracking Northern Cardinals and Blue Jays feasting on winter seed heads, and following Brown Creepers spiraling up the trunk, snacking on insect eggs—well, I still really love having tulip trees in the yard.
Tulip trees (Liriodendron tulipifera) serve up a year-round buffet: nectar in their tulip-shaped flowers in spring, seeds in late fall and winter, and, because they’re host trees for butterflies and moths, a ready supply of caterpillars during three seasons.
A winter staple for supplying small nutritious seeds, especially to American Goldfinches, Purple Finches, House Finches, Pine Siskins, and Dark-eyed Juncos, sweetgum gets a bum rap because of the very seeds that feed the birds. The problem is that those tiny seeds are encased in a woody, spiky case, commonly called a gumball. Stepping on a freshly fallen gumball can be downright painful, and stepping on one along a slope can cause a slip, so it’s not the ideal tree for close to the house or in mini yards. But because the seed-laden balls cling to the branches, dangling throughout the winter and falling only in spring, the tree provides significant sustenance to winter birds. Besides, it’s fun to watch birds swinging from the fruits in order to feed!
Yellow-billed Cuckoos arrive late on breeding territories because they wait for the caterpillars to emerge, this one snagging a snack amid the branches of a sweetgum tree.
I would be remiss not to mention that sweetgum also hosts caterpillars and other insects. And I would be further remiss not to mention that nothing loves moth caterpillars more than Yellow-billed Cuckoos. In my yard, sweetgum is the magnet tree for these secretive birds.
Despite its similar name, blackgum is unrelated to sweetgum. Sometimes called black tupelo, blackgum’s claim to fame for birds is in its rich source of nectar and nutritious fruit. Bees love the nectar and—without intentionally sounding like a broken record—where there are bees, there are other insects, all of which feed the birds. The little berry-sized fruits are startlingly sour, thus providing yet another common name, sour gum, for the tree. Bet you can guess, though, what loves those little, fleshy, blue-black, oval-stoned fruits that hang usually three to a long, slender stem. American Robins likely top the list, as these late-autumn fruits are essential to their post-breeding diets.
Seed-eating birds will flock to catkins hanging from river birch branches throughout the winter. Finches—American Goldfinches, Purple Finches, House Finches, and Pine Siskins—as well as Northern Cardinals and some of the winter sparrows, including Dark-eyed Juncos, will all dangle from the catkins, foraging readily on the abundant buffet. Only in spring will seeds finally drop. That’s assuming, of course, the birds haven’t devoured them all!
If you live where old American sycamore trees trace waterways, you’ll have an abundance of potential nest sites among the tree cavities—a characteristic of mature sycamores. Against bright winter skies, the mottled white bark all but glistens, and that alone makes this tree special to me. The advantage for birds, though, (besides the cavities, of course) is that the tree serves up “sycamore balls,” the seed/fruit providing winter food. It’s a common wintertime sight to watch American Goldfinches clinging to the sycamore balls, feasting on what to us seems like an unappetizing mass of fuzz. Beyond seeds, however, sycamores provide additional tidbits. Year-round, I see woodpeckers scouring the sycamores regularly, pulling insects, eggs, and larvae from the bark. Nuthatches do their upside-down search for the same reason. And I’ve watched female Northern Cardinals pull strips of bark from small branches, most certainly to construct a nest’s foundation. Sycamores, however, are best suited for super-sized yards.
The following final two suggestions are also best suited for super-sized yards. They have the distinct benefit of colonizing, providing landscape benefits for landowners and foraging benefits for birds.
Most often found growing along roadsides and fencerows and in sparse woods or old fields, sassafras typically falls off the radar of landscapers, who miss the value of this shrub/tree for naturalized planting or screens. Center alone, a sassafras will spread by root suckers, forming an ever-widening colony with trees ultimately growing to 60 feet tall in attractive dense pyramidal forms. The late-summer dark blue berries, however, provide the quick-draw for birds.
Far less thorny than honey locust, black locust doesn’t really work well in a small residential landscape. Where there’s space for it, however, the tree is a boon for bees and other insects that visit its profuse, pendulous, grape-like clusters of creamy-white blossoms. A plethora of insects love the nectar, so you can bet birds follow the bugs. But would you believe, hummingbirds love the nectar almost as much as insects do! At least where I live, since the blossoms coincide with the hummers’ arrival, we enjoy the great birds-and-bugs combo. Young trees bloom readily, but the stately old trees also attract woodpeckers, gros-beaks, thrashers, thrushes, mockingbirds, catbirds, and orioles. In spring, when I tire of watching the cypress trees, I turn to the locusts. It’s never dull! However, a word of caution: Black locust can multiple readily by root suckers.
Black locust blossoms (Robinia pseudoacaci), with their abundant sweet nectar, attract insects and, therefore, feed the spring birds.
Here, then, in addition to the first-choice oaks, are details about the 14 additional deciduous tree species that birds love. They’re arranged loosely from best Lepidoptera bug hosts to lesser bug hosts—although all work exceedingly well in their respective native habitats. Plant as many species as you have room to plant! You’ll build a little bit of bird heaven—not to mention a big bit of bird-watcher’s heaven. Make your choice(s) and update your yard map accordingly.
Deciduous Trees for Mid-Sized and Super-Sized Yards
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| Wild black cherry | Prunus serotina | 50–80' tall, 30–60' spread; well-drained soil; white blossoms in spring; berries in midsummer; commonly cultivated | Eastern US Zones 3–9 |
| Black willow (see also Salix shrubs and micro cultivar, below) | Salix nigra | Largest native willow, 30–60' tall, 30–60' spread; fast-growing; only willow suitable for lumber; rarely cultivated but easily rooted from cuttings; numerous cultivars; highly beneficial to pollinators; butterfly host plant | Eastern US Zones 4–9 |
| Dogwood | Cornus spp. | Attractive landscape trees; low-growing | As specified by species below |
| Flowering dogwood | C. florida | 15–30' tall, 15–30' spread; showy flowers, red fall foliage, berries; common in understory; prefers at least partial shade; commonly cultivated, with many cultivars | Eastern US except MN, WI, and IA Zones 5–9 |
| Alternate-leaf dogwood synonymous with pagoda dogwood | C. alternifolia | 15–20' tall, 20–30' spread; lacks showy flowers; moist to dry soils; commonly cultivated | Eastern US except LA Zones 3–7 |
| Maple (see also Acer micro cultivars, below) | Acer spp. | Popular specimen tree; also noted for fall color foliage | As specified by species below |
| Boxelder synonymous with ashleaf maple, three-leaf maple | A. negundo | 30–50' tall, 30–50' spread; common, mainly in moist soils, along streams and pond margins; tolerates drought, clay soil, and air pollution; commonly cultivated and naturalized | Eastern US Zones 2–10 |
| Red maple | A. rubrum | 50–70' tall, 50' spread; tolerates wide range of soils but prefers moist, slightly acidic; full sun; very cold-hardy; shallow, flat root system that can raise sidewalks or driveways if planted too close | Eastern US Zones 3–9 |
| Sugar maple | A. saccharum | 40–80' tall, 60' spread; easily grown in average soil; best in fertile soil, full sun; avoid compacted soil; intolerant of road salt and urban pollution; beautiful specimen tree | Eastern US except SC and FL Zones 3–8 |
| Red mulberry | Morus rubra | 35–50' tall, 35–40' spread; attractive understory; fruits early; occasionally cultivated outside native range; avoid similar white (Asian) mulberry | Eastern US except NH and ME Zones 4–8 |
| Southern bald cypress and variety pond cypress (see also T. distichum micro cultivars, below) | Taxodium distichum and T. distichum var. impricarium | 50–75' tall, 20–45' spread; grows most anywhere; attractive shape, ferny foliage | Eastern US except MN, IA, WI, and east of NY Zones 4–9 |
| American basswood synonymous with American linden | Tilia americana | 50–80' tall, 30–50' spread; easily grown in average conditions, sun or part shade; showy, fragrant flowers attract bees; handsome ornamental but intolerant of city conditions | Eastern US Zones 2–8 |
| Tulip tree synonymous with yellow poplar (see also L. tulipifera micro cultivars, below) | Liriodendron tulipifera | 60–90' tall but very old trees up to 200' tall, 30–50' spread; host plant for numerous butterflies; flowers provide early nectar; seed lasts the winter; many cultivars | Eastern US except MN, NH, and ME Zones 4–9 |
| Sweetgum (see also L. styraciflua micro cultivar, below) | Liquidambar styraciflua | 60–80' tall, 40–60' spread; prefers deep, fertile soils; avoid alkaline soils; intolerant of shade; birds fond of seeds (fruits dangling, woody ball of pointed capsules); widely cultivated as street tree | Eastern US except ME, NH, VT, MI, WI, MN, and IA Zones 5–8 |
| Blackgum synonymous with sour gum and black tupelo (see also N. sylvatica micro cultivar, below) | Nyssa sylvatica | 30–50' tall, 20–30' spread; tolerates wide variety of conditions, including standing water; need male and female to set fruit (½" berries on 1–5" stems, usually 3 or more per stem); heavy nectar-producer attracting insects and birds; deep taproot precludes transplanting; excellent ornamental yard tree, best in super-sized yards; commonly cultivated | Eastern US except MN and IA Zones 3–9 |
| River birch (see also B. nigra micro cultivar, below) | Betula nigra | 30–50' tall but can reach 90' tall, 40–60' spread; often multi-trunked, rounded crown; moist soil not required; commonly cultivated | Eastern US except ME Zones 4–9 |
| American sycamore | Platanus occidentalis | 75–100' tall, 75–100' spread; most massive tree east of Rockies; mottled bark peels to white; ball-like fruit; best suited for super-sized yards | Eastern US except MN Zones 4–9 |
| Sassafras | Sassafras albidum | 30–60' tall, 25–40' spread; aromatic; dark blue fruits on female plants in late summer; can form thickets, thus best for super-sized yards | Eastern US except MN Zones 4–9 |
| Black locust | Robinia pseudoacacia | 30–60' tall, begin as shrubby; can be invasive; blossoms hang in grape-like clusters; can form thickets as small trees; best for super-sized yards | Throughout US Zones 3–8 |
Since not everyone has ample square footage for standard-sized deciduous trees, and since not everyone wants to limit the landscape to a single deciduous tree, some options for smaller cultivars make viable alternatives. Even in super-sized yards with abundant space, sometimes a feature planting of a single micro cultivar or even a little grove of them might function well near the driveway or entryway or perhaps as a central focal point.
Here are nine bird-loving trees with 17 specific species, varieties, or cultivars, all well worth considering for multiple landscaping uses—especially, of course, providing the ultimate bird feeder. When you make your choices, update your yard map accordingly.
Deciduous Micro Cultivars for Mini Yards and Pots-and-Patio Gardens
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| Willow | Salix spp. | Generally prefer moist soils | As noted below |
| American pussy willow | S. discolor | Shrubby, 6–15' tall, 4–12' spread; average, medium to wet soil in full sun or part shade; tolerates drier soils than most willows; may be cut to ground every 3–5 years to maintain smaller size; good as hedge or in rain garden | Eastern US except TN, FL, SC, GA, AL, LA, and AR Zones 4–8 |
| Pink pussy willow | S. discolor ‘Rosea' | 15–20' tall; 12–15' spread; average water needs; full sun to part shade; pink flowers mid-spring | Cultivar Zones 4–8 |
| Purple willow | S. purpurea ‘Nana’ | 3–5' tall; 3–5' spread; full sun, medium to wet soil; tolerates clay soil; showy gray-white flowers attract butterflies; deer resistant; winter interest | Cultivar Zones 4–8 |
| Dogwood | Cornus spp. | As noted below | As noted below |
| Flowering dogwood | C. florida | 15–30' tall, 15–30' spread; showy flowers, red fall foliage, berries; common in understory; prefers at least partial shade; commonly cultivated, with many cultivars | Eastern US except MN, WI, and IA Zones 5–9 |
| ‘Red Pygmy’ | C. florida ‘Red Pygmy’ | 3–7' tall, 2–5' spread; easily grown in average, moist but well-drained soil; full sun to part shade; slow-growing; rose-red blossoms | Dwarf cultivar Zones 5–9 |
| Red maple | Acer rubrum | Popular specimen tree; also noted for fall foliage | As noted below |
| ‘Bowhall’ | A. rubrum ‘Bowhall’ | 40–50' tall, 15–25' spread; columnar; narrowest of red maples; urban, clay-soil and wet-soil tolerant | Cultivar Zones 3–9 |
| ‘Armstrong Gold’ | A. rubrum ‘Armstrong Gold’ | 40' tall, 12' spread; columnar, tightly upright branches; bright-gold fall foliage; perfect for narrow street planting | Cultivar Zones 3–9 |
| Sugar maple ‘Reba’ (‘Belle Tower’) | Acer saccharum ‘Reba’ | 45' tall, 18' spread; narrow oval shape; superior heat tolerance; yellow-orange fall foliage | Cultivar Zones 3–8 |
| Bald cypress | Taxodium distichum | Attractive landscape tree; tolerates many soil conditions | Eastern US except MN, IA, WI, and east of NY Zones 4–9 |
| ‘Lindsey’s Skyward’ | T. distichum ‘Skyward’ | Dwarf conifer, 25–30' tall, 5–10' spread, can be pruned to keep smaller; no roots or knees; highly resistant to ice-storm stress; copper fall foliage | Cultivar Zones 4–9 |
| ‘Falling Waters’ | T. distichum ‘Falling Waters’ | 8–15' tall, 8–10' spread; weeping; full sun, cold tolerant; bronze to rust fall foliage; use as specimen, edging; can be espaliered against or draped over walls | Cultivar Zones 4–9 |
| ‘Mickelson’ usually sold under ‘Shawnee Brave’ | T. distichum ‘Mickelson’ | 50–70' tall, 15–20' spread; narrow pyramid; denser foliage than other cypresses; performs well in concrete cut-outs | Cultivar Zones 4–9 |
| Tulip poplar | Liriodendron tulipifera | As noted below | Eastern US except MN, NH, and ME |
| ‘Little Volunteer’ | L. tulipifera ‘Little Volunteer’ | Only ⅓ size of original; 30–35' tall, 18–20' spread; compact pyramidal; prefers well-drained soil; moderate growth rate; all benefits of original, including tulip blossoms | Cultivar Zones 4–9 |
| ‘Arnold’ synonymous with ‘Fastigiatum’ | L. tulipifera ‘Arnold’ | 50' tall, 15' spread; columnar shape; prefers well-drained soils; flowers, butter-yellow fall foliage; fast-growing | Cultivar Zones 4–9 |
| ‘Ardis’ | L. tulipifera ‘Ardis’ | Compact, ⅓ size of original; 15' tall, 15' spread; excellent for compact landscapes; small leaf; pollution tolerant; golden-yellow fall foliage | Dwarf cultivar Zones 4–9 |
| Sweet gum ‘Slender Silhouette’ | Liquidambar styraciflua ‘Slender Silhouette’ | 34–50' tall, 4' spread; highly praised; produces very small fruits that fall in very small space; fast-growing | Variety Zones 5–8 |
| Blackgum ‘Tupelo Tower’ | Nyssa sylvatica ‘Tupelo Tower’ | 30–40' tall, 10–15' spread; columnar; low maintenance, slow-growing; prefers moist soil; gold, amber, scarlet fall foliage | Cultivar Zones 3–9 |
| River birch ‘Little King’ also sold as ‘Fox River’ | Betula nigra ‘Little King’ | 8–10' tall, 9–12' spread; multistemmed, shrub-like; extremely disease resistant; orangish to brownish bark, exfoliates to lighter brownish inner bark; good in rain garden | Cultivar Zones 4–9 |
Flowering dogwood trees (Cornus florida) display lovely early-spring blossoms attractive to insects and, therefore, to birds.
As a group, conifers (cone-bearers) and other evergreens rank close to being “must-haves” for great bird habitat. They provide better shelter than does any other vegetation for two obvious reasons. First, as a whole, evergreens are generally fairly dense. Second, of course, they keep that dense quality year-round. So especially for folks who live in mid-states and north where other trees go bare half the year, evergreens offer that essential shelter against the elements—in some cases, maybe the only shelter. While oak is still the single most important species to plant for birds, some sort of sheltering evergreen, if at all possible, should garner a spot in your birdscape.
In spite of the traditional emphasis on feeders and feed, or even natural foods like seeds, berries, nectar, and buds and blossoms to create attractive bird habitat, a yard without shelter will be a yard with few birds. And those few birds will only dash in to grab a bite and then rush off to someplace safe. Birds equate “safe” with “shelter”—be it from weather or predators. In short, building safe havens in your yard will not only draw birds in, but also help keep them alive. Planting evergreens is key.
Having said that, I should emphasize that some evergreens are better than others. Consider the quality use of space, for instance, if the evergreen you plant serves a dual purpose, providing not just shelter but also food. Many cone-bearing evergreens do that, but perhaps a more telling example is American holly.
In spring, tiny blossoms add sweetness to the air and draw insects. You know what happens then: Birds follow. While green berries form in early summer and seem to sit idle the remainder of the season and into fall, they finally turn red in early winter, adding a holiday air to the landscape. Only after a series of freeze-thaw cycles, however, do the berries soften enough for birds to flock in for dinner—often as late as early February. Birds that arrive to pluck the ripened red berries inevitably gulp them down whole, including American Robins, Northern Mockingbirds, Eastern Bluebirds, Gray Catbirds, Cedar and Bohemian Waxwings, Blue Jays, and all the woodpeckers.
An Eastern Bluebird forages on holly berries (Ilex opaca) after several freeze-thaw cycles soften the winter fruit.
Probably the most dramatic winter scene in my two holly trees is the day our robin regulars figure out the berries are suddenly perfect for their dining pleasure. “Our” few robins apparently send word out on the airwaves that it’s chow time. Within hours, up to 300 robins arrive to ravage the trees. In spite of the multitudes and their obvious gluttonous appetites, stripping the trees is a carefully systematic process. And it happens this way every year. They start at the top of the tree to the north and clear the tree of berries to about halfway down, then move to the second tree, again from the top down to the middle. Maybe berries near the top, collecting even the weakest of the winter sun’s rays, ripen ahead of the rest; but given that the birds take only three or four days to finish the buffet, I hardly see how that’s the case. A couple of cold winter days surely can’t make much difference in berry ripening.
Whatever the reason for their systematic work, they finally work their way down to the bottoms of both trees. The feast is at its end—or so it seems to me. But on the final day, they move to the ground, flipping leaves, scratching in the loose ground cover, picking up every berry—whole or part—that fell during their haste to gobble berries from tree twigs. And then they’re gone, surely sated, off to strip another tree in another yard on another day.
So hollies are wonderful evergreen choices for a bird-friendly habitat. When you consider holly choices, however, avoid the temptation to choose a cultivar that produces those bright little yellow berries—unless you’re buying one tree for you and another for the birds. Because birds and yellow-berried hollies didn’t evolve together, they apparently don’t recognize yellow berries as food. Be in the know!
Likely the second-best evergreen is eastern red cedar or one of its many cultivars, including some tidy shrub versions, dandy for small spaces or for masses in large areas. Red cedar is dense, slow-growing, tough, long-lived, nicely shaped, and carefree. A cluster creates the perfect wind-break. Then the final feature takes it over the top: It produces berries—actually tiny cones—that birds love. Watch Cedar and Bohemian Waxwings enjoy the “fruits” when winter puts the kibosh on other fruit. The berries also help Eastern Bluebirds survive the winter. Owls find the branches perfect for day roosts; numerous songbirds enjoy the nesting protection; everything gathers in cedar safe-ports in a storm. Tuck one or some into your habitat somewhere, even if only a couple of the smaller cultivars like ‘Gray Owl’ or ‘Royo’. (We’ll come back to eastern red cedar cultivars later, when we talk about shrubs.)
A Cedar Waxwing dines on namesake eastern red cedar cone-like berries (Juniperus virginiana) that serve as a favorite nutritious winter staple for many berry eaters.
Given the vast array of choices for landscape conifers and evergreens, however, pine trees head the A-list in one very important aspect: They host an amazing array of Lepidoptera species. While according to Tallamy’s research, oaks support 534 butterfly and moth species, pines support an equally impressive 203 species, the highest among evergreens. Translation: Pines host oodles and bunches of caterpillars! If you’re a bird, that’s a yum-yum buffet, especially when you’re feeding a nest full of hungry babies. It’s also no wonder, then, when I’m watching for spring and fall migrants in the yard, I see lots of flitting about among the pines. Those long-distance fliers are gobbling up protein to fuel the rest of their journey. Ah, those little green caterpillars!
Pines trees, however, have another claim to fame. Among the myriads of birds attracted to pines, some actually eat pine seeds, those little nuggets buried deep within the cone. Most notable, of course, are Red Crossbills and White-winged Crossbills, northern birds with namesake bills especially adapted (crossed) to split open cones to reach the precious seeds inside. Finches, especially Pine Siskins and Purple Finches, as well as Pine Grosbeaks also forage among cones. Nuthatches, including the cute little southern Brown-headed Nuthatch, manage to eke out seeds, and Red-bellied Woodpeckers and Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers love ’em as well!
Beyond the caterpillar and cone interests, however, pines offer a good many other benefits to birds. Our Eastern Bluebirds build their nests almost entirely of pine straw because, simply, it’s readily at hand, and they’re opportunistic nesters. Hummingbirds often rely on pine sap to seal their nests, using it to glue everything in place. And during a snow, I find more species sheltering in the protection of pines than in anything else—well, maybe except eastern red cedar. But the pines grow on the east side of the garage, protected from winter’s worst northwesterly winds. That probably gives the pines an edge-up in the shelter-popularity scale.
A Pine Warbler forages for caterpillars in its namesake jack pine (Pinus banksiana), native in the bird’s summer breeding range.
On its northern breeding grounds, a Common Redpoll gleans seed from spruce cones (Picea spp.).
Still, all those little green caterpillars that I can’t see but birds find in abundance—well, they feed a ton of babies in our neighborhood. Gotta love pines!
Tallamy’s research supports the claim that spruce trees rank second among evergreens for hosting those little green caterpillars—156 species of them. Given the right location, white spruce serves well to attract Black-capped Chickadees, American Goldfinches, White-breasted and Red-breasted Nuthatches, Pine Siskins, Hoary and Common Redpolls, and both crossbills. Since lower branches stay strong as trees mature, these spruces also provide perfect protection for ground-loving feeders and roosters. Where else could secretive Fox Sparrows tuck in?
Because Atlantic white cedar is also a host plant for various insects, it’s another magnet for birds. Planted within the birds’ normal ranges, the tree will likely attract Pine Siskins, Ruffed Grouse, Slate-colored Juncos, Tree Sparrows, and both redpolls. As with northern white cedar, older trees draw Pileated Woodpeckers looking for carpenter ants. Between them, these two cedars provide super nesting habitat for a half-dozen warbler species, Golden-crowned Kinglets, Yellow-bellied Flycatchers, Winter Wrens, White-throated Sparrows, Swainson’s Thrushes, and, underneath in groves, Ovenbirds.
Berries on a sweetbay magnolia (Magnolia virginiana) attract an early-fall female Northern Cardinal, the rich lipids serving to brighten her new feathers.
Depending on how far north you live, sweetbay magnolia may be evergreen. Up to the 38th parallel, it’s at least semievergreen, but farther north it may lose its glossy leaves during the worst cold. I’m in love with these trees because they’re beautiful in the landscape: Sweet white blossoms follow with luscious berries, set amid glossy green, elongated, oval leaves. But oh my! Wait till you see the warblers foraging among the leaves, cardinals plucking the berries, and White-throated Sparrows tucking in among the foliage during winter snows. Hard to imagine anything better—unless it’s the flocks of Dark-eyed Juncos foraging under the low branches.
Hemlocks provide similar attributes. A few species find the tiny hemlock cones of interest, including Black-capped and Carolina Chickadees, Pine Siskins, American Goldfinches, Red Crossbills, and White-winged Crossbills. In the right habitat, Wild Turkeys and owls roost on mature hemlock branches. Black-throated Blue Warblers, Black-throated Green Warblers, Blackburnian Warblers, and Solitary Vireos nest in hemlocks growing in their northern breeding range. And Yellow-bellied Sapsuckers are famously attracted to hemlocks in northern ranges.
Evergreens for Mid-Sized and Super-Sized Yards
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| American holly (see also Ilex shrub cultivars, pages 125–26) | Ilex opaca | 15–30' tall, 10–20' spread; upright, branches to ground; fairly dense; male and female required for berry production; dozens of cultivars, but birds may not like cultivars’ berries | Eastern US except MN, WI, IA, MI, VT, NH, and ME Zones 5–9 |
| Eastern red cedar (see also Juniperus micro and shrub cultivars, below and page 131) | Juniperus virginiana | 30–60' tall, 8–25' spread; only native juniper commonly upright and columnar but many rounded and bushy; commonly cultivated, with many cultivars | All eastern US Zones 2–9 |
| Pines | Pinus spp. | Year-round shelter, cones for some bird species, sap often used by hummingbirds to seal nests | As specified by species below |
| Virginia pine | P. virginiana | 15–30' tall, 10–20' spread; easily grown; prefers clay or sandy loams and well-drained soil; spiny-scaled cones 3" long; common in dry uplands; uncommonly cultivated mainly within native range | Eastern US except MN, WI, MI, IA, AR, LA, FL, and east of NY Zones 4–8 |
| Jack pine synonymous with scrub pine | P. banksiana | 30–50' tall, 20–30' spread, smaller in East; usually crooked, leaning, gaunt; very short needles, curved cones; commonly cultivated | North of Ohio River except IA; all of Northeast except NJ, DE, and CT Zones 2–6 |
| Red pine | P. resinosa | 50–80' tall, 20–25' spread; common in dry woodlands, sandy soil, boreal forests; very commonly cultivated and naturalized | Coastal states from SC through ME and central, including MO, IL, IN, MI, WI, and MN Zones 2–5 |
| Pitch pine | P. rigida | 40–60' tall, 20–30' spread; common, widespread in dry sandy or rocky soil; 2" cones; fairly commonly cultivated | Eastern US except FL, MS, AL, LA, AR, MO, IA, MI, and WI Zones 4–9 |
| White pine (see also P. strobus micro cultivars, below) | P. strobus | 50–80' tall, 20–40' spread; common, widespread in well-drained soils; very commonly cultivated, with many cultivars including dwarf and weeping forms; often in public parks | Eastern US except FL, MS, and LA Zones 3–8 |
| White spruce (see also Picea micro cultivar, below) | Picea glauca | 40–60' tall, 10–20' spread; smallest cones of spruces; common, widespread in muskegs, bogs; commonly cultivated, with several cultivars | MD, DE, NJ, and PA north through ME; also MI, WI, and MN Zones 2–6 |
| Atlantic white cedar synonymous with white cypress | Chamaecyparis thyoides | 30–50' tall, 30–40' spread; columnar, narrow, upright; dense crown; common in swamps, bogs, wet woodlands, along streams; rarely cultivated | All coastal states from ME through LA Zones 4–8 |
| Northern white cedar synonymous with American arborvitae (see also Thuja micro and shrub cultivars, below and pages 130–31) | Thuja occidentalis | 20–40' tall, 10–15' spread; native in swamps, along waterways; commonly cultivated as ornamental and hedge plant | Eastern US except FL, GA, AL, MS, LA, AR, and MO Zones 2–7 |
| Sweetbay magnolia synonymous with laurel magnolia | Magnolia virginiana | 10–35' tall, 10–35' spread; shrubby and deciduous north but treelike and evergreen south, 10–35' tall; aromatic; common in wet soils; commonly cultivated | Gulf and Atlantic coastal states except CT, RI, and ME Zones 5–10 |
| Hemlocks | Tsuga spp. | Short, flat needles and tiny cones; untrimmed branches to ground | As specified by species below |
| Eastern hemlock synonymous with Canadian hemlock | T. canadensis | 40–70' tall, 25–35' spread; common but local in rocky, wet swales; very commonly cultivated, including as compact shrubs, dwarfs, and large, graceful trees | Eastern US except FL, MS, LA, AR, IL, and IA Zones 3–7 |
| Carolina hemlock | T. caroliniana | 45–60' tall, 20–25' spread; uncommon and local on rocky slopes; commonly cultivated, with many cultivars available | OH, VA, NC, SC, GA, and TN Zones 6–7 |
So, in order of preference, depending on your location, here are my lucky 13 recommendations for conifers and other evergreens. When you make your choice(s), update your yard map accordingly.
A good many evergreen micro cultivars offer almost endless options for landscaping plans. From tall to creeping, from hefty to skinny, evergreen micros can even fill pots on patios or decks. Obviously the larger the tree, the more shelter it provides; but some is better than none. If everyone offered a little something, imagine how much more habitat birds would have. It’s a plan! And here are 10 micro cultivars to help you implement the plan—no matter the size of your yard or patio.
Remember to update your yard map, noting decisions about micros.
Evergreen Micro Cultivars for Mini Yards and Pots-and Patio Gardens
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| Eastern red cedar (see also Juniperus shrub cultivar, page 131) | Juniperus virginiana | Dense evergreen; birds love the berries (actually tiny cones) for winter survival | All eastern US Zones 2–9 |
| ‘Taylor’ | J. virginiana ‘Taylor’ | 14–20' tall, 3–4' spread; upright columnar shape; tolerant of wide range of soils in full sun; excellent drought resistance | All eastern US Zones 2–9 |
| ‘Burkii’ | J. virginiana ‘Burkii’ | 10–25' tall, 4–10' spread; can be pruned; tolerates wide range of soils in full sun; serves well as specimen or screen; best drought resistance of any conifer native to eastern US | All eastern US Zones 2–9 |
| ‘Blue Arrow’ | J. virginiana ‘Blue Arrow’ | 12–15' tall, 2' spread; perfect for narrow spots; groupings form nice hedge; easy to grow; tolerates seashore and roadside salt conditions; fall berries | All eastern US Zones 2–9 |
| White pine | Pinus strobus ‘Fastigiata’ | 30–40' tall, 7–10' spread; columnar, branches ascend upward; easily grown; wide range of soil conditions; full sun; good as specimen, small grouping, or as screen | Eastern US except FL, MS, and LA Zones 3–8 |
| White spruce ‘Dwarf Alberta’ | Picea glauca ‘Conica’ | 10–13' tall, 7–10' spread; cone-shaped dwarf to semidwarf, shrub-like, very dense; grows slowly at 2–4" per year; rarely produces cones; often trimmed as topiary tree when grown in containers | MD, DE, NJ, and PA north through ME; also MI, WI, and MN Zones 2–6 |
| Northern white cedar (see also Thuja shrub cultivars, pages 130–31) | Thuja occidentalis | Cultivars as described below | Eastern US except FL, GA, AL, MS, LA, AR, and MO Zones 2–7 |
| ‘Nigra’ | T. occidentalis ‘Nigra’ | 20' tall, 5–10' spread; retains good color year-round; good as hedge; can be pruned | Eastern US except FL, GA, AL, MS, LA, AR, and MO Zones 2–7 |
| ‘Lutea’ synonymous with ‘Peabody’ | T. occidentalis ‘Lutea’ | 25–30' tall, 12–15' spread; compact, grows about 1' per year; new growth bright cream-yellow, turns light gold, then green | Eastern US except FL, GA, AL, MS, LA, AR, and MO Zones 2–7 |
| ‘Emerald’ synonymous with ‘Emerald Green’ | T. occidentalis ‘Smaragd’ | 7–14' tall, 3–4' spread; semi-dwarf, dense growth; becoming most popular white cedar variety; ½" urn-shaped cones; makes good hedge, its most common use | Eastern US except FL, GA, AL, MS, LA, AR, and MO Zones 2–7 |
| ‘Mission’ synonymous with ‘Techny’ | T. occidentalis ‘Techny’ | 20–25' tall, 6–10' spread; compact, broad-based upright; long-standing traditional cultivar loved for year-round bright-green foliage | Eastern US except FL, GA, AL, MS, LA, AR, and MO Zones 2–7 |
| Hemlock ‘Fastigiata’ | Tsuga canadensis ‘Fastigiata’ | 5–6' tall, 2' spread over 10 years; multi-stemmed dwarf; likes more shade than sun; will not tolerate urban conditions or road salt; best in rural or suburban landscapes | Eastern US except FL, MS, LA, AR, IL, and IA Zones 3–7 |
So there you have it. Trees are more than decoration. They—like all landscape vegetation—serve a biological purpose (or should). Understanding that purpose not only helps landowners realize the importance of planting native trees, but also helps folks identify which of those native trees will best serve the biodiversity of any given yard and neighborhood, regardless of yard size. Here’s to your yard’s diversity!
That’s Step 1. Now, updated yard map in hand, you’re ready for Step 2.