A rarely seen Mourning Warbler forages for bugs among the goldenrod leaves and blossoms (Solidago spp.), a habitat that perfectly suits this skulking warbler.
“If we could see the miracle of a single flower clearly, our whole life would change.”
—BUDDHA, sixth century BC
After selecting trees and shrubs suited to your space and budget, it’s time to add perennials for color, variety, depth, and texture—and to provide happy places for birds as well as bees and butterflies.
Among the plants we loosely call “flowers,” there are two kinds: annuals and perennials. Annuals live one year and die. Perennials die to the ground every winter but come back. In other words, they’re hardy. And the term for hardy plants that die back annually is “herbaceous.” So this chapter addresses recommended native herbaceous perennials—both the ones we traditionally call “flowers” and the ones we traditionally call “grasses,” which, of course, also bloom.
But don’t confuse “hardy” with “native.” Just because a plant returns year after year doesn’t mean it’s native. Vast numbers of introduced species remain hardy on foreign soil. In fact, some natives are not hardy. They don’t return by root. Instead, they reseed themselves. So a perennial is any plant—native or not—that survives the off-season and greens up (or grows up) when the new growing season begins.
But there’s more. Perennials are perennials only in their own eco-regions. Similar eco-regions, however, exist across the world. So a plant—native or not—that is hardy in Florida is probably not hardy in Minnesota; but it could be hardy in Morocco or India. Planted in the far north, a Florida perennial would likely freeze to death by mid-December and not green out the following spring. On the other hand, a perennial—native or not—growing in Minnesota will come up again next spring—in Minnesota. That same Minnesota perennial transplanted in Florida, however, will likely die of heat and exhaustion. Well, okay, maybe not exhaustion. In short, though, a perennial is not a perennial everywhere. It’s perennial in its native eco-region, no matter in what parts of the world that eco-region occurs. That’s why nonnative plants can get a foothold in our foreign soil and truly thrive.
Perennials typically hang on year after year because they also regenerate, albeit perhaps slowly. Perennials come up from root each spring, but they also reproduce in some manner. Some multiply themselves by seed; other spread by root, by suckering, or by rhizome. Unless something goes wrong, you shouldn’t have to replace perennials for a long time—maybe never. Of course, everything eventually dies; but with perennials, typically new plants will have come up to replace the old ones before the aged reach their lifetime’s end.
So, given that bit of background, you’re ready for Step 3.
Step 3: Choose native perennials—six each of three different species.
While trees are the anchor and shrubs the fill, herbaceous perennials add the color—and still more biodiversity. Generally perennials stay low, hang out in tight beds, and draw birds to their nectar and seeds as well as to the bugs they support. Choosing and planting a dozen and a half perennials may seem daunting, but we think you’ll find success with the easy-to-grow native perennials on our top-choice lists—native perennials that invite birds to your yard.
Maybe you’re an experienced, sophisticated gardener who has for years cultivated a lovely wash of color, with masses of, say, pinks, lavenders, and purples drifting across the yard or garden. On the other hand, maybe gardening isn’t your thing at all, but you’d like something snazzy in your yard—only you’re thinking snazzy birds. You can relax. No matter your level of gardening or landscaping expertise, we’ve got you covered.
Many native perennials fall into the category folks generally term “wildflowers.” Wildflower field guides, some more comprehensive than others, categorize literally hundreds of native plants. Translation: You have literally hundreds of native plants from which to choose to enhance your bird-friendly habitat. But some wildflowers are fairly unruly, maybe even exceptionally aggressive, sometimes rangy and ragged, and occasionally just plain noxious. Not all wildflowers are created equal, and certainly not all wildflowers are lovely in the yard—or attractive to birds.
On the other hand, a range of native perennials, carefully chosen, can provide blooms three seasons of the year. Your garden can host bright color in spring, summer, and fall. In my own garden, early spring begins with violets, red columbine, Indian pinks, golden Alexander, and crossvine blossoms. Ostrich ferns unfurl, trumpet honeysuckle blooms, and water iris sprout purple. Within a month, wild blue indigo, penstemon, wild petunias, butterfly weed, and aquatic milkweed feed bees and butterflies. By midsummer, liatris, monardas, coneflowers, coreopsis varieties, queen-of-the-prairie, agastache, rattlesnake master, mountain mints, lobelias, phloxes, and milkweeds make the garden crazy busy. In late summer into early fall, joe-pye weeds, washes of asters, goldenrod cultivars, late rudbeckias, and boneset host butterflies and migrating warblers. Each perennial has its bloom time, and planted in combination, you and your birds enjoy a nonstop array of color.
A Blue-gray Gnatcatcher forages in joe-pye weed (Eupatorium purpureum), a perennial favorite butterfly plant among native gardeners.
In winter, having left all the frost-killed perennials for seed and shelter, I watch from my window as winter sparrows, Mourning Doves, Dark-eyed Juncos, House Finches, American Goldfinches, Northern Cardinals, Carolina Chickadees, Tufted Titmice, and Carolina Wrens forage among the now-dead stalks, the seeds offering tasty treats for birds. What a reward for hosting all those native perennials in the four-season garden!
At the heart of the matter for you, of course, is how to find the right native perennials among the hundreds. That’s what this chapter is all about. The following 21 native selections, suitable for mid-sized and super-sized yards and gardens, offer a range of heights, colors, and habitat demands. Some perennials we’ve reserved for super-sized yards only, and we have recommendations for the mini yards and pots-and-patio gardens as well.
But first, here’s help in making sound choices for native herbaceous perennials for your yard or garden. We trust they’ll be snazzy!
Consider: Think in masses of perennials, not single plants. Setting out only one or two plants of a given perennial species creates a lost-in-the-crowd kind of habitat for birds. To be drawn to potential nectar and seed sources, for instance, birds zoom in to forage among ample quantities. In the extreme, think about how difficult it would be for a hummingbird to find a single flower hidden in the greenery. But give that hummer a wash of 15 plants, all abloom with dozens of nectar-bearing flowers, and you’ll see a regular busy visitor.
Consider: To reduce the risk of making big mistakes, let’s start small, only a half dozen each of three native perennial species. Later, when you and your birds have found joy in your chosen perennials, add to the array of blossoms as your space, budget, and time permit.
Consider: Which perennials grow in your planting zone? Given climate change, you may get by planting something that typically grows to your south, but the opposite is unlikely.
Fall-blooming New England asters (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) attract insects by the dozens, creating a popular buffet for birds.
Consider: Which perennials need full sun, part shade, or full shade? Where in your yard will plants get the right light? Some perennials will never bloom—or at best will bloom only poorly—without adequate sun. Other perennials need full shade in order to survive. Check before you choose—both for what the plants want and where they’ll find it in your space.
Consider: Which plants will grow well in your soil? Even plants native to your state and situated in a compatible planting zone may not find the right kind of soil, temperature range, or moisture content to be happy in your setting. Consult local nursery staff, horticulturalists, or your county extension agent if you’re unsure.
Consider: Will your perennial choices spread—either through rhizomes, self-seeding, or expanding clumps? Allow room for growth. You’ll get more birds with more plants.
The perennials recommended here are well-behaved plants that will grow happily in your yard or garden without causing you grief. Meanwhile, the birds, bees, and butterflies will reward you for your efforts. While some of the following are more for pollinators and insects than specifically for birds, you know the drill: To feed the birds, first feed the bugs. In a few cases, we’ve recommended a cultivar or two.
Finally, although some of the following would certainly work in very small yards, they need space for light and air. We’ve pulled out a list beginning on page 173 that makes specific recommendations for small spaces.
So here we go, with great choices for native perennials:
How I love asters! The fall garden is awash in shades of pink, purple, and lavender, all from the varied flowers of aromatic and New England asters. Over the years, they’ve multiplied, New England asters more readily than the aromatic asters. In our rich garden soil, the New England asters stand stately, sometimes up to my waist, always aflutter with a myriad of butterflies and tiny nectar-loving insects. More constrained, aromatic asters tend to stay in a neat, upright clump, spreading slowly outward. Given asters’ bloom time, the fall migrant birds are lively among them, too—not because of the nectar, but because of the bugs. It’s just a delightfully busy place!
Bushy aster, also called rice button aster, is shorter and, as the name says, more bushy than the other two listed here. They work well in smaller yards and more compact gardens.
Hardy plants that self-seed, wild columbines, also called red columbines, are to my eye actually more salmon-colored. Found in the wild, they’ll be tucked among the ledges of a rocky hillside, so they thrive on neglect. But hummingbirds certainly don’t neglect them! Because columbines bloom really early, they garner attention from both the birds and me. After a drab winter, gotta love that bright spot of warm color! The hybrids in the nurseries—the purple, yellow, and multicolored varieties—hang neglected in my yard. I’ve watched hummingbirds zip by and maybe check them out, but the birds never linger and never return. I have to assume the hybrids are sterile. Go native if you want to feed the hummers.
Self-seeding wild columbine (Aquilegia canadensis), unlike its hybrids, produces nectar nearly irresistible to hummingbirds.
Black-eyed Susans (Rudbeckia hirta) attract insects to their nectar, but seeds are their biggest contribution to birds. American Goldfinches, however, often pluck the flower petals before seed heads fully mature.
Two genera of plants take on the common name “coneflower.” Be sure to read the labels before you hand over your cash.
Probably the most common and most easily grown of all the Rudbeckia coneflowers is black-eyed Susan. It self-seeds and multiplies by root, stretching out each season to expand the mass. Because they multiply readily, you may find someone who has extras to share, saving you another purchase. To put it simply, I’d never want to be without black-eyed Susans. American Goldfinches absolutely swarm the plants. In fact, they don’t even wait for the petals to fall—they eat petals, seed, and all! If anything remains, a few Carolina Chickadees and Tufted Titmice slip in for snacks, and Song Sparrows, House Finches, and Northern Cardinals will forage underneath for anything scattered or dropped. After the blooms are spent, black-eyed Susans’ little button seed heads add a note of texture to the garden, and I leave them until early spring when I clear debris for the new sprouts.
As an aside, brown-eyed Susan (Rudbeckia falgida) is very similar to black-eyed Susan and functions equally well providing seeds to birds.
Popular among gardeners everywhere, coneflowers boast many varieties, cultivars, and hybrids; but for birds, the most suitable is the standard eastern purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea).
Cutleaf coneflower, also called tall or gray-headed coneflower, stands tall—head-high! This Rudbeckia is named for its distinctive leaves. The flowers have a bird-magnet seed head; and finches, chickadees, and titmice cling to the heads lunching, swaying in the breeze. In rich soil, this coneflower may need support to prevent blow-down in strong winds.
The Rudbeckia orange coneflowers are widely cultivated, and cultivars are more readily available than the standard. Depending on the cultivar, however, the color may vary from pale yellow to deep orange. While I love the colors, in my garden at least, the plants are not as reliably hardy as other Rudbeckia and Echinacea coneflowers. And if I misread a label or choose one not accurately or completely labeled and end up with a hybrid, it’s often sterile. I’ve wasted my money, then, on a plant that won’t feed either the birds or the bees.
Another reliable Rudbeckia, sweet coneflower is the tallest among those listed here and is the only yellow one among the trio.
Among Echinacea species, eastern purple coneflower has become an all-time favorite among gardeners, both native and nonnative. And therein lies a problem. Because the plant is extraordinarily popular, numerous cultivars and hybrids have hit the nursery racks. Some are lovely; others are stunning. But be careful. Cultivars contain all the chemistry of the standard, but hybrids do not. Purchasing a hybrid will very likely put a plant in your garden that offers neither nectar nor seeds—probably your only reasons for purchasing coneflower. I know—one cluster is blooming in my garden right now. It’s a deep rose-purple. No bees stop to nectar. No butterflies stop to sip. No goldfinches stop to feed. Pretty but useless.
No matter the coneflower you choose, however, none of them tolerate wet feet and will rot in heavy clay soils.
The Coreopsis genus offers quite a nice range of natives. They bloom yellow—bright yellow! Most are 2 or 3 feet tall, although lanceleaf coreopsis may hover at only a foot tall, and tickseed coreopsis—synonymous with prairie tickseed, prairie coreopsis, and stiff coreopsis—can be just a few inches taller. By contrast, however, tall coreopsis, sometimes called tall tickseed, can tower to 8 feet. Many, like threadleaf coreopsis, or whorled coreopsis, have delicate, namesake threadlike leaves, adding an airy touch to wherever they grow. Greater tickseed gets its moniker from its 2-inch-diameter flowers, the largest of the coreopsis blooms.
Whether you want background or foreground plants, some species of coreopsis can likely fill the bill. If allowed, most will naturalize. All are attractive to birds and bugs, and birds find the seeds alluring. Since common names vary and even overlap, you will do well to verify choices by checking scientific names.
In addition to these “best-choice” coreopsis listings, your local nurseries may also carry “better choice” varieties as well as “good-choice” cultivars that will also serve you well. Again, however, you probably should verify that you’re not choosing a hybrid.
Be careful with goldenrods. Some are exceedingly aggressive and ill-behaved, their rhizomes spreading quickly and smothering everything in their paths. Some native species, however, are well behaved and merit a patch or two in the garden, ultimately offering a wash of gold across the autumn landscape. Because I have about an acre suitable for planting, I have both the aggressive kind—on the hillside behind the house—and two well-behaved varieties in my front garden. And, oh, what a joy it is to have goldenrods! The blossoms are absolutely covered with bugs in late August and through September, even into October.
One autumn day during migration, I counted 17 species of migrants, mostly warblers, feeding in the goldenrod. They weren’t eating flowers, nectar, or seed; they were gorging on bugs. A Mourning Warbler turned out to be a county record. How exciting, that patch of goldenrod! A month later, the goldenrod having gone to seed, the winter sparrows arrived: White-throated and White-crowned Sparrows, Vesper Sparrows, and Dark-eyed Juncos, as well as Savannah and Lincoln’s Sparrows, the latter two only passing through. Joining the sparrows, a few early Purple Finches and Pine Siskins fed among the foraging flocks. Isn’t it a thing of joy to be able to speak of those birds in terms of “flocks”!
Among the late blossoms and already developed seed heads of goldenrod (Solidago spp.), a Ruby-crowned Kinglet, having arrived to spend the winter, forages for bugs.
In the garden, consider showy goldenrod; wreath goldenrod, synonymous with blue stem goldenrod; or wrinkleleaf goldenrod ‘Fireworks’. More later about the aggressive species.
Just as my favorite bird is whichever one I’m watching at the moment, my favorite native perennial is whichever one the birds are feeding on at the moment. Hyssops fall into that category. They host bees top to bottom on their long, tall, flowering spikes. Then, when seeds form, they host birds. Cardinals look famously majestic in winter, clinging to the spike, plucking seed after seed. It’s win-win with these handsome plants.
Purple giant hyssop can reach 6 feet but, like all hyssops, the plant forms only a single spike. For instance, 10 of them could fit in 5 square feet—not that you’d necessarily plant them that way. Anise hyssop, staying closer to 4 feet tall, forms tidy upright clumps. Frequently, though, hyssops will retain their stature best if staked, especially if planted where winds and storms can push them down.
Close to the house, I have a growing cluster of short and sweet lavender-blooming anise hyssop. Paired with a patch of pink garden phlox, they make a delicate little flower bed only 6 by 5 feet, anchored in spring with wild columbine and in fall with aromatic asters.
Indian pink, also called woodland pinkroot, is a truly lovely plant and extraordinarily well behaved, with deep green leaves on straight stalks topped with long-blooming tubular flowers that are red on the outside and yellow inside. Everyone who visits my yard wants to know what it is. Hummingbirds don’t have to ask; they just swarm it. If it’s suitable in your area, get it—sooner than later.
Indian pinks (Spigelia marilandica) attract hummingbirds—and gardeners—with their lovely, long-lasting early-spring blossoms.
Indigos die back to the root every year, so it’s a bit of a surprise that the blue false indigo looks more like a shrub than a perennial. The flowers are pea-like but on spikes, and the seed pods, when ripened, pop open to reveal almost pea-sized seeds. The morsels attract Blue Jays, Northern Cardinals, Mourning Doves, and other seedeaters large enough to gulp seeds down. The pods cling well into winter. Wild white indigo, at least in my yard, blooms slightly later than the blue and is a more delicate-looking plant, its leaves more gray-green than those of blue false indigo. Deep roots on both white and blue make the plant highly drought-tolerant—but also nearly impossible to move. So plant it where you want it from the get-go. Bees visit both. At least six kinds of butterflies accept indigos as a host plant, and all delight in the nectar.
On a frosty early-December morning, a male Northern Cardinal finds breakfast among the giant hyssop seed heads (Agastache scrophulariifolia)—a clear illustration of the value of leaving frost-killed plants in the garden for winter forage and shelter.
Both spotted and sweet-scented joe-pye weeds, as well as some others that are native here, attract butterflies and other pollinators to their flat-head clusters of pinkish flowers (see photo at beginning of this chapter). Even though they die back to the ground, they grow to sometimes 7 feet tall, so they need room to reach out. I’ve planted mine too close to the path, so they overarch, and I have to duck or push the stems aside.
Aside from medicinal qualities, joe-pye weeds bring glamour to the garden and feed the bugs and butterflies. I’ve watched the Eastern Wood-pewee take up an observation perch near joe-pye weed, darting after bugs on the wing, feeding for 20 to 30 minutes at a time. On alternate days, the Eastern Phoebe takes up the same perch. Flycatchers know the drill!
The Liatris genus of plants likes it hot and dry. They’re prairie plants. Talk about a carefree garden plant! Just let ’em alone. All reach 4 feet tall or more, so in the open, they may need support. I stake mine, so the support is really unobtrusive.
Dense blazing star—synonymous with marsh blazing star, dense gayfeather, and just plain blazing star—stays shortest of the trio we’ve chosen here and also has the shortest spike of flowers. An even more compact and shorter cultivar is ‘Kobold’ blazing star, suitable for truly small spaces. Prairie blazing star and devil’s bite, also called just plain blazing star, offer a little color variation, the prairie being somewhat more rosy than purple. The blossoms of all three attract butterflies, other pollinators and insects, as well as hummingbirds. Sparrows and finches and other small seedeaters find the spikes great seed sources.
Like many other pollinators, this black female tiger swallowtail favors blazing star’s (Liatris pycnostachya) striking flower spike.
Since common names among these species are similar—even interchangeable in some cases—you’ll be wise to verify your choices using the scientific names.
Lobelias like it wet. Really wet. From an old, leaky, preformed fish pond filled with equal parts sand, peat, and rich loam, I’ve created a bog in my garden. While it requires my refilling the water about once a week, it hosts plants that otherwise would never grow here—including cardinal flower and great blue lobelia. Those aren’t the only two species in the bog, but they bloom simultaneously and make a lovely red-and-blue contrast together. Hummingbirds visit both, usually first the cardinal flower and then discovering the blue. That wet spot in your yard or garden that has left you bumfuzzled? Here’s your answer.
The compassion people have for the dramatically declining monarch butterfly populations has recently put milkweeds front and center on nursery stock shelves. Sometimes, though, folks turn sour on the campaign after a year or two of struggling with common milkweed. It comes up everywhere, spreading both by root and by seed. And then it becomes an annoyance. Three other choices, however, may let you plant milkweed without suffering from the too-big-and-too-much syndrome.
Butterfly weed is my first choice. It’s low-growing, does not spread, prefers hot and dry, and boasts lovely long-blooming bright-orange blossoms. What’s not to like? Well, okay, if you are really trying to attract monarchs, and if the monarchs really do find your butterfly weed, and if they lay their eggs on it and if the eggs hatch into caterpillars before the birds eat them, the caterpillars will eat every part of the butterfly weed except the stalks. But that’s why we’re planting it, right? Just plant lots of it! This year I added 18 more of them. And as a note of assurance, even when caterpillars eat butterfly weed to bare stalks, the plants will survive, returning next year to feed more caterpillars.
Swamp milkweed (Asclepias incarnata), more bush-like, smaller-leaved, and less aggressive than common milkweed (Asclepias syriaca), makes a well-behaved garden plant to host monarch butterflies.
A variety of wild bergamot (Monarda fistuloso), also called bee balm, is true to its name, attracting pollinators that are so happy to gorge on the nectar that they seem oblivious to everything else.
Any of the mountain mints will attract insects and pollinators, but to my mind, short-toothed mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum) is the mother of all pollinator plants. I count 10 insects in this little section. You?
A female Ruby-throated Hummingbird nectars on scarlet monarda (Monarda didyma).
Swamp milkweed is more bush-like and considerably better behaved than common milkweed. At least in my yard, it spreads only slowly and will actually die out if not protected from the spread of goldenrod.
Whorled milkweed is as short as butterfly weed, blooms white rather than pink or mauve, and attracts a wide array of butterflies. Its small stature makes it suitable for tidy borders.
People sometimes forget that milkweed, in addition to being the single host plant for monarchs, is a super nectar plant for all kinds of butterflies as well as other pollinators and bugs.
Called bee balm, bergamot, or monarda, these natives will score high in your garden with bees and hummingbirds, but butterflies can’t comfortably nectar on their heads-down blossoms. The name “bee balm” tells you how happy bees are to find a patch. Even with bunches of bees nectaring, I can work among the plants without them so much as noticing my presence. A balm, indeed!
My lavender-blossomed wild bergamot spreads slowly, so every year I edge the mass planting and give away the starts. They’re shallow-rooted and pull easily. Scarlet bee balm seems to regenerate best by seed, so I sometimes have to move plants that come up too close to the path or someplace where it will disappear in the depths of some other vegetation. They transplant readily, though, again because they’re shallow-rooted. Both monardas have been in my garden for at least 20 years without replacement. Got my money’s worth out of those six plants!
In my garden, mountain mints are the unequivocal number-one attractor of pollinators. While I have three different species, I’m suggesting only two here. Some can spread like crazy, so blunt mountain mint, also called short-toothed mountain mint, and slender mountain mint are the ones most bird gardeners prefer. While mints attract pollinators, the blunt mountain mint is also an insect repellent. Put crushed leaves in your pocket to ward off gnats and rub leaves on your pant legs to ward off ticks and chiggers. Then sit back and try—just dare to try—counting the number of insects roving across these fabulous pollinators. Yep, first feed the bugs to feed the birds!
Among the many species and cultivars of penstemon, beardtongue (or beard tongue), also called foxglove beardtongue, is the taller of the two we’ve listed. The plant gets its weird name because, of the five stamen in its white flower, one is sterile—and has a tuft of small hairs. Gray beardtongue is not as highly recommended for bugs and butterflies as other penstemons.
Longtime garden staples, phloxes host bees, butterflies, and birds, offering nectar to all. The most tried and true is garden phlox, more resistant to powdery mildew than most. By adding meadow phlox, also called wild sweetwilliam or spotted phlox, and smooth phlox to the mix, you can vary colors from white to pink to purple to rose.
The name rattlesnake master, sometimes called button snake-root (see photos on pages 36 and 39), scares some folks, but it comes from the plant’s former use as a treatment for snakebite. In spite of that unsettling history, it’s one fabulous plant, unlike any other in your yard or garden. A bit prickly, somewhat reminiscent of yucca, it’s big, showy, unusual, and a giant hit with pollinators, including butterflies and hummingbirds. The flycatchers perch and watch, not feeding on the plant but feeding on what’s feeding on the plant.
Rattlesnake master, however, is a prairie plant. After all, it grows where rattlesnakes roam. It does not like wet feet, preferring hot and dry. In springs when we have heavy rain, this plant suffers, and sometimes its top rots out. So look for a well-drained spot, skip the moisture-holding mulch, and give it room.
Rosemallows need space. Lots of space. And wet. I’ve tried on occasion to pamper them in my garden, but they need something wetter than I can offer. The height and spread of the two species suggested here make them incompatible in my garden, and I’m too selfish to plant them at the bottom of the hill in back of the house where I’ll not see them daily. But given their almost treelike stature, they do work amazingly well in large containers. Since saucered containers can be kept continuously wet, the growing conditions are perfect. It’s worth the try for this spectacular specimen and the butterflies it attracts!
I plant blue sage for hummingbirds. Period. Sometimes I have to grow it from seed if it’s hard to find in the nurseries, but pitching the seed on the ground and stirring it about will serve the purpose. It’s not finicky.
A hatch-year male Ruby-throated Hummingbird nectars on a September-blooming blue sage cultivar (Salvia azurea), fattening up for his journey south to winter in Costa Rica.
While vervain is not readily available in most nurseries, it should be. In Costa Rica, where their native vervain looks very much like ours, I’ve watched more hummingbirds nectaring on it than on any other plant. We have our own native vervain that’s equally attractive to our single species of hummingbird. It’s worth the care necessary to keep it tidy just to watch the hummers.
Standard common yarrow blooms white, but I have cultivars in yellow and shades of rose. They’re not the hottest item in the garden, but bugs do like them—especially tiny bugs—and they’re lovely accents. But they’re dry-weather plants and will root-rot if exposed to too much rain. Two years ago, after weeks of spring rains, I lost every one, some of which I’d had for 20 years or more. Bummer.
Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) serves up nectar for a Delaware skipper and other insects.
About the
Lists
The perennials listed here are, according to the United States Department of Agriculture Plant Database (online at www.plants.usda.gov), native to states as indicated. Note that while a perennial may be native in your state, it may not be native to every part of your state and certainly not to every eco-region. Consider soil texture, moisture, slope, and required sunlight. Your planting zone and eco-region combined will also help determine suitable growing conditions in your yard. Find your planting zone online at http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/.
The perennial plant lists in this chapter are not, nor are they intended to be, all-inclusive. Rather, the plants here were chosen because:
1. They are attractive to birds. Benefits noted in the table represent primary seasonal food sources for birds—insects, nectar, seed, and/or berries. Leaving frost-killed plants in the garden undisturbed until early spring offers winter forage and shelter, especially to ground-loving birds.
2. They are easily grown, well behaved, and suitable for landscaping in various settings, as described.
As has been the rule with earlier tables, we think of our recommended plants as falling along a sliding scale from “poor” to “good” to “better” to “best.” All plants in the following table for mid-sized and super-sized yards rank mostly either “better” or “best” for attracting birds to the yard, while the few cultivars included, by definition, rank as “good.” We do not include hybrids.
A final hint: Plant perennials according to the estimated height of mature plants, obviously placing taller plants toward the back of the garden or property, with shorter varieties tucked in toward the front.
An Array of Native Perennials
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COLOR AND BENEFIT(S) N = NECTAR I = INSECTS S = SEED B = BERRIES | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| Asters | Symphyotrichum spp. | Varied N I S |
Known for spectacular fall washes of lavender and purple; highly attractive to butterflies, birds | As specified below |
| Aromatic aster | S. oblongifolius | Blue, purple N I S |
1–3' tall, 1–3' spread; blooms Aug–Sept; tolerates drought, poor soils; full sun; tends to stand upright; plant in masses | NY west and south except MI, SC, GA, FL, and LA Zones 3–8 |
| Bushy American aster synonymous with rice button aster | S. dumosum synonymous with A. dumosum | Lavender N I S |
1–3' tall, can be sprawling; blooms Aug–Sept; tolerates variety of soils; full sun; most common on coastal plain; plant in masses | Coastal states and WV, TN, KY, IN, and IL Zones 4–8 |
| New England aster | S. novae-angliae | range from purple-rose to white N I S |
Up to 4' tall, 2–3' spread; blooms late summer into fall; easily grown; full sun; beautiful in masses; attracts butterflies and birds | Eastern US except FL Zones 4–8 |
| Columbine, red synonymous with wild columbine | Aquilegia canadensis | Salmon to red, yellow inside N I |
Up to 2' tall, 1–1.5' spread; full sun to part shade; tolerates drought, dry soil; showy bell-shaped flowers attract hummingbirds; self-seeds, well behaved | Eastern US except LA Zones 3–8 |
| Coneflowers | Echinacea spp. and Rudbeckia spp. | N I S |
Attractive to butterflies; avoid deadheading to provide seed for many finches, winter sparrows | As specified below |
| Black-eyed Susan | R. hirta | Yellow N I S |
2–3' tall, 1–2' spread; full sun; bright daisy-like flowers, 2–3" across, June–Sept; deer resistant; seeds favored by finches, winter sparrows | Eastern US Zones 3–7 |
| Cutleaf coneflower synonymous with tall coneflower or gray-headed coneflower | R. laciniata | Yellow N I S |
2–9' tall, usually 3–4' tall in cultivation, 1.5–3' spread; showy, drooping rays, green center; easily grown; full sun, well-drained soil; tolerant of heat, humidity, deer; naturalizes | Eastern US Zones 3–9 |
| Orange coneflower esp. cultivars ‘Goldsturm’ and ‘Viette’s Little Suzy’ | R. fulgida | Orange-yellow N I S |
2–3' tall, 2–2.5' spread; full sun; spreads slowly; late summer blossoms; cultivars more readily available than standard | Eastern US except ME, VT, NH, LA, IA, and MN Zones 3–8 |
| Purple coneflower, eastern | E. purpurea | Purple to pinkish purple N I S |
2–4' tall, 1.5–2' spread; blooms through summer; tolerates drought, clay, rocky shallow soil; full sun; popular, easily grown; daisy-like heads form seeds favored by birds | Eastern US except ME, NH, VT, MA, and MN Zones 3–8 |
| Sweet coneflower | R. subtomentosa | Yellow N I S |
3–5' tall, 1–2' spread; showy, fragrant flowers July–Oct; full sun to part shade but may need support in shade; well-drained loamy soil; good for borders, cottage and native gardens | WI, MI, IA, MO, IL, IN, KY, TN, NC, AR, LA, AL, NY, MA, and CT Zones 4–8 |
| Coreopsis | Coreopsis | Mostly delicate flowers with sometimes threadlike leaves | Generally easy to grow in variety of conditions | As specified below |
| Greater tickseed | C. major | Yellow N I S |
2–3' tall, 1–2' spread; blooms June–July; easily grown, full sun; tolerates drought, dry soil; attracts butterflies; best naturalized | Eastern US east of Mississippi River except ME, VT, NH, MA, CT, RI, and NJ Zones 5—9 |
| Lanceleaf coreopsis | C. lanceolata | Yellow N I S |
1–2' tall, 1–1.5' spread; erect stems; single daisylike blooms spring to early summer; tolerates drought, dry rocky soil; best naturalized | Eastern US Zones 4–9 |
| Tall coreopsis synonymous with tall tickseed | C. tripteris | Yellow N I S |
2–8' tall, 2–8' spread; blooms July–Sept; showy flowers, brown centers; full sun; thrives in poor soil with good drainage; good in rear borders; naturalizes | Eastern US except MN, ME, VT, NH, and NJ Zones 3–8 |
| Threadleaf coreopsis synonymous with whorled coreopsis | C. verticillata | Yellow N I S |
2.5–3' tall, 1.5–2' spread; flowers 2" across, June–Sept; shearing plants midsummer promotes fall bloom; can spread by rhizomes, also self-seeds; good for poor, dry soils | AR and east of Mississippi River except IN, PA, VT, NH, and ME Zones 3–9 |
| Tickseed coreopsis synonymous with prairie tickseed, prairie coreopsis, and stiff coreopsis | C. palmata | Yellow N I S |
1.5–2.5' tall, 1–1.5' spread; full sun; tolerates poor, dry soil; daisy-like 2" flowers, May–July; will naturalize; can be used in borders but must be kept in check to prevent spreading | Central US including MN, WI, MI, IN, IL, IA, MO, AR, LA, and MS Zones 3–8 |
| Goldenrods (possible choices listed here from among dozens) | Solidago spp. | Superior for birds seeking fall bugs; seeds for winter birds | Goldenrods wrongly blamed for hay fever, which is actually caused by plants like ragweed | Native species almost everywhere; consider size and behavior for personal location |
| Showy goldenrod | S. speciosa | Yellow N I S |
3' tall, 2–3' spread; red stems, erect; blooms July–Sept; most showy of all goldenrods; may need to divide every 2–3 years to control growth; not aggressive | Eastern US except ME and FL Zones 3–8 |
| Wreath goldenrod synonymous with blue stem goldenrod | S. caesia | Yellow N I S |
1–3' tall, 1.5–3' spread; purplish stems; blooms Aug–Sept; shade-tolerant, best in full sun; forms clumps, does not spread as fast as most other goldenrods; good for cottage and butterfly gardens | Eastern US except MN and IA Zones 4–8 |
| Wrinkleleaf goldenrod ‘Fireworks’ | S. rugosa ‘Fireworks’ | Yellow N I S |
Up to 3' tall, 2.5–3' spread; better behaved than most other goldenrods; lacy-flowered panicles resemble fireworks, Aug–Oct | Eastern US except IA and MN Zones 4–8 |
| Hyssops | Agastache spp. | Shades of blue, purple | Tall but slender plants; attractive to butterflies and birds; seeds attract fall and winter birds | As specified below |
| Purple giant hyssop | A. scrophulariifolia | Purple N I S |
3–6' tall, 2' spread; part shade, sun; flower spike up to 6" long, July–Aug | Eastern US except AR, LA, MS, AL, FL, and ME Zones 6–9 |
| Anise hyssop | A. foeniculum | Pale to deep blue-violet N I S |
2–4' tall, 1.5–3' spread; flower spike up to 6", June–Oct; sun to part shade, dry soil; grows in clumps; favored by pollinators; crushed leaves smell like anise | Limited to MN, IA, WI, MI, IL, KY, PA, NY, NJ, CT, and NH Zones 4–8 |
| Indian Pink synonymous with woodland pinkroot | Spigelia marilandica | Red, yellow inside N |
1–2' tall, 0.5–1.5' spread; clump-forming; part shade to full sun; easily grown in rich soil; good in front borders; esp. attractive to hummingbirds | South of and including MO, IL, IN, TN, WV, and MD Zones 5–9 |
| Indigo | Baptisia spp. | Attracts butterflies | Grows deep roots so should not be moved after established; becomes shrub-like after blooming | As specified below |
| Blue false indigo | B. australis | Blue N I S |
3–4' tall, 3–4' spread; best in full sun; blooms May–June on spikes to 12"; inflated seed pods attractive; good as specimen or in small groups | Eastern US except MN, LA, MS, and FL Zones 3–9 |
| Wild white indigo | B. alba | White N I S |
2–4' tall, 3–4' spread; best in full sun; blooms Apr–May on spikes up to 12"; inflated seed pods attractive; good in borders, cottage gardens, as specimens | Eastern US except north of VA and east of OH Zones 5–8 |
| Joe-pye weeds | Eupatorium spp. | Pollinators heavily attracted to these plants | Fall bloomers | As specified below |
| Spotted joe-pye weed esp. cultivar ‘gateway’ | E. maculatum ‘Gateway’ | Dusky rosepink N I S (attractive, persist into winter) |
4–5' tall, 1–2' spread; full sun, medium to wet soil; low maintenance; good in rain gardens, moist soils; blooms July–Sept; esp. attractive to butterflies; ‘Gateway’ more compact than standard | Eastern US except AR, LA, MS, AL, FL, and SC and cultivars Zones 4–8 |
| Sweet-scented joe-pye weed | E. purpureum | Mauve pink N I S |
4–7' tall, 2–4' spread; erect; full sun to part shade, moist soil; low maintenance; blooms July–Sept, seed heads persist into winter; spectacular in masses; good in rear borders, cottage gardens, along water | Eastern US Zones 4–9 |
| Liatris | Liatris spp. | Purple N I S |
Common names gayfeather because of feathery flower heads, blazing star because of fluffy flowers on spikes; all tolerate heat, humidity, drought; none tolerate wet winter soils; attracts butterflies, other insects, and birds, including hummingbirds | As specified on next page |
| Dense blazing star synonymous with marsh blazing star, dense gayfeather, and blazing star | L. spicata | Red-purple, occasionally white N I S |
2–4' tall, 9"–1.5' spread; forms clumps; full sun; grasslike leaves with tall spike of flowers; blooms July–Aug on 6–12" spikes; good massed in borders | Eastern US except ME, VT, NH, and RI Zones 3–8 |
| Blazing star ‘Kobold’ | L. spicata ‘Kobold’ | Deep purple N I S |
1.5–2.5' tall; 6"–1' spread; small, compact cultivar of species above; remains upright; blooms July–Aug; attracts birds, hummingbirds, butterflies | Cultivar Zones 3–8 |
| Prairie blazing star | L. pycnostachya | Deep rose-purple N I S |
2–5' tall, 1–2' spread, tallest of species; easily grown in full sun, well-drained soils; forms clumps; blooms July–Aug top down on terminal spikes up to 20" long; may need support | Primarily west of Mississippi River and north of Ohio River Zones 3–9 |
| Blazing star synonymous with devil’s bite | L. scariosa | Reddish purple N I S |
2–4' tall, 1–2' spread; blooms Aug–Oct on spikes up to 18"; prefers dry, sandy, or rocky soil, full sun; adds vertical accent to cottage gardens, good in borders | Eastern US except VT, TN, FL, and MS Zones 3–8 |
| Lobelias | Lobelia spp. | Attract hummingbirds and butterflies | Moist soils, constant moisture, even standing water | As specified below |
| Cardinal flower | L. cardinalis | Red N I |
2–4' tall, 1–2' spread, erect; short-lived; thrives in standing water or average soil; blooms July–Aug, showy red flowers on spikes; attractive to hummingbirds | Eastern US Zones 3–9 |
| Great blue lobelia synonymous with blue cardinal flower | L. siphilitica | Blue N I |
2–3' tall, 1–1.5' spread, erect; likes moist soil; tolerates full sun in north but likes part shade in heat; blooms July–Sept; good color for late perennial garden; effective along water | Eastern US except FL Zones 4–9 |
| Rosemallows, (over 40 species; 2 suggestions here) | Hibiscus spp. | White, pink, or various shades of red | Moist, wet conditions produce most blooms; showy | As specified below |
| Crimsoneyed rosemallow | H. moscheutos | Deep burgundy red N I |
3–7' tall, 2–3' spread; moist to wet soil, full sun; showy flowers July–Sept to 8" wide; can be grown in large containers | Eastern US except NH, VT, ME, and AR Zones 5–9 |
| Rosemallow | H. lasiocarpos | White or rose with magenta i |
3–7' tall, 2–3' spread; average medium to wet soil, full sun; tolerates heat and humidity but needs moisture; blooms July–Oct; attracts butterflies | Southern US Zones 5–9 |
| Milkweeds | Asclepias spp. | varied N I |
All milkweeds serve as larval host plants for monarch butterflies | As specified below |
| Butterfly weed | A. tuberosa | orange N I |
2–3' tall clumps, 1–1.5' spread; full sun; low maintenance, drought tolerant; showy blooms June–Aug; attracts hummingbirds and butterflies; deeply rooted so best center in place once established | Eastern US Zones 3–9 |
| Swamp milkweed | A. incarnata | White, pink to mauve N I |
3–4' tall, 2–3' spread; full sun, best in moist soil; deep taproot; showy, fragrant flowers July–Aug; good in sunny borders, low spots, butterfly gardens | Eastern US except MS Zones 3–6 |
| Whorled milkweed | A. verticillata | White N I |
1–2.5' tall, 1–2' spread; easily grown full sun to part shade in well-drained soil; blooms June–sept; attracts butterflies, other pollinators, hummingbirds; good in borders, butterfly gardens | Eastern Us except ME and NH Zones 4–9 |
| Mountain mints | Pycnanthemum spp. | Mountain mints esp. attractive to pollinators and, by extension, birds; in spite of name, not alpine; underlying silver bracts give impression of being dusted by snow | As specified below | |
| Blunt mountain mint synonymous with short-toothed mountain mint | P. muticum | Pink N I |
1–3' tall, 1–3' spread; easily grown, full sun to part shade; drought tolerant, vigorous grower; if naturalization undesirable, prune with spade; showy pink flowers July–sept; good in borders, cottage and butterfly gardens | As specified below |
| Slender mountain mint | P. tenuifolium | White N I |
2–3' tall, 2–3' spread; full sun to part shade, well-drained soil; sometimes aggressive grower; tolerates drought, clay soil, erosion; blooms July–sept; good in herb gardens, naturalized areas, borders (if contained) | Eastern US except FL Zones 3–8 |
| Monardas | Monarda spp. | varied N I S |
Esp. attractive to butterflies and hummingbirds, also finches and winter sparrows that enjoy seeds; susceptible to powdery mildew; M. didyma cultivars need more moisture than do M. fistulosa cultivars | As specified below |
| Scarlet bee balm | M. didyma | red N I s |
Up to 3' tall, 2–3' spread; full sun to part shade in moisture-retentive soil; showy red flowers July–Aug; good in border fronts, bird and butterfly gardens | Eastern US except FL, AL, Ms, LA, and AR Zones 4–9 |
| Wild bergamot | M. fistulosa | Lavender, pink, or white | 2–4' tall, 2–3' spread; full sun to part shade, well-drained soil; tolerates drought, clay soil; showy fragrant flowers July–Sept; tends to self-seed; not as colorful as bee balms | US except FL and CA Zones 3–9 |
| Penstemons (multiple species and cultivars available; 2 suggestions here) | Penstemon spp. | Varied | Most species and cultivars attract both butterflies and hummingbirds | As specified below |
| Beard tongue synonymous with foxglove beardtongue | P. digitalis | White N I |
3–5' tall, 1.5–2' spread; full sun, well-drained soil; tolerates drought, clay soil; showy flowers Apr–June; mass in sunny borders, native plant and naturalized gardens | Eastern US except FL Zones 3–8 |
| Gray beard tongue | P. canescens | Pale to dark violet N I |
1–3' tall, 1–1.5' spread; full sun, well-drained soil; easily grown; showy flowers May–June; good for sunny areas, rock gardens | IL, IN, OH, PA, VT, MD, VA, WV, TN, KY, NC, SC, GA, and AL Zones 5–8 |
| Phloxes (many species and cultivars; 3 suggestions here) |
Phlox spp. | Varied | Most attract hummingbirds, butterflies, and other pollinators; some susceptible to powdery mildew | As specified below |
| Garden phlox esp. cultivar ‘David’ | P. paniculata ‘David’ | White N I |
2–4' tall, 2–3' spread; staple of perennial borders; resists powdery mildew better than most; blooms July–Sept, longer bloom period that most phlox; other cultivars in alternate colors | Cultivar; eastern US except FL Zones 3–8 |
| Meadow phlox synonymous with wild sweetwilliam and spotted phlox | P. maculata | Pinkish purple N I |
2–3' tall, 1–2' spread; prefers organically rich, moist soil, full sun; blooms Aug–Oct; attracts butterflies and birds, including hummingbirds | Eastern US except WI, AR, LA, FL, NH, CT, and RI Zones 3–8 |
| Smooth phlox | P. glaberrima | Reddish purple, pink, or white N I |
2–4' tall, 2–2.5' spread; prefers moderately fertile, well-drained soil, full sun; blooms on panicles up to 12" tall, Apr–May, one of few tall phloxes to bloom early | Eastern US except MI and east of OH and north of VA Zones 3–8 |
| Rattlesnake master synonymous with button snake-root | Eryngium yuccifolium | Greenish white N I S |
4–5' tall, 2–3' spread; easily grown in full sun, well-drained soil; showy flowers June–Sept; attractive to pollinators; unusual-looking plant; good specimen, effective in broad borders, native gardens | Most of US Zones 3–8 |
| Sage | Salvia azurea | Blue N I |
3–4' tall, 2–4' spread; easily grown in variety of soils, full sun; drought tolerant, deer resistant; showy spikes of flowers July–Oct | Southeastern and south central US; but naturalized in most of the rest of eastern US, except east of OH and TN Zones 5–9 |
| Vervain | Verbena hastata | Purplish blue N I |
2–6' tall, 1–2.5' spread; full sun; forms colonies, slowly spreading by rhizomes and self-seeding; blooms July–Sept; attracts butterflies, hummingbirds | Eastern US Zones 3–8 |
| Yarrow | Achillea millefolium | White N I |
3' tall, 2–3' spread; feathery leaves; blooms in spring, seed heads remain through summer; forms colonies, best in wild areas; attractive to pollinators; cultivars in yellow and paprika, well-behaved for gardens | Eastern US Zones 3–9 |
Well, there you have it! Make your choices. If, however, you have a super-sized yard, we have more suggestions in the next table, eight more natives a bit too rambunctious for neat-and-tidy, but plants too good for bird habitat to ignore. Given space, then, include those eight among your possible choices as well.
Some native perennials have rambunctious habits. They’re tall, or they spread aggressively, or they’re rangy, or they flop over, or they’re just plain untidy and ill-mannered. Still, some are so fabulous for bird habitat that, if you have a super-sized yard, they deserve a close look.
In autumn, the sometimes chest-high white blossoms of boneset, very similar to thoroughwort, seem to host every pollinator and little bug on the planet. Surely an entomologist would find a little slice of heaven studying these visitors. I’m betting that’s exactly the way all the warblers and flycatchers feel when they study the visitors, too. What a buffet the birds enjoy! Blended with the bright yellow of goldenrod, boneset brightens the path edges. I don’t plant it—it readily plants itself—but I also don’t mow it down.
A fall migrating monarch nectars on boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum), verifying the plant’s worth to pollinators—and birds.
We’ve already talked about some well-behaved goldenrod species that work in the garden, but the one listed here may be a bit too vigorous for a tidy yard or garden. Still, given a patch you would otherwise be mowing, let the goldenrods take over and feed the fall migrating birds. If you continue to mow the border, you’ll readily contain the mass planting.
In spite of its name, New York ironweed has spread across more states than just its native. While crop farmers and cattle rangers fight to eliminate ironweed, the plant does serve butterflies well. Although I’m not recommending purchasing the plant (only limited well-behaved cultivars are on the horizon for purchase), if it does come up somewhere convenient, it’s worth keeping.
Again, I doubt you can purchase spotted jewelweed, also called touch-me-not, but learn to recognize the plant with its fairly specific growing conditions: wet shade, or at least moist shade. Since we quit mowing most areas, I’ve discovered spotted jewelweed in low spots at woods’ edge. Since then, the plant has spread into a nice-sized patch, and fall migrating hummingbirds have taken up position there to guard small sectors, fattening up before moving on. During fall migration, Ruby-throated Hummingbirds throughout the eastern US depend almost exclusively on spotted jewelweed for nectar.
The trio of milkweed plants listed above may require a tiny bit of care for their hardiness, but common milkweed will grow anywhere any time and spread readily by root. Given the dramatic decline in monarch butterfly populations and given that milkweed are the only host plant monarchs will use to lay their eggs, if you have room, add common milkweed.
Because some mountain mints spread rapidly and because they’re such fabulous pollinators, consider cultivating a few in big spaces. The birds will take advantage of the bursting buffet.
Okay, American pokeweed is a weed. The name says so. I’m betting you’ve yanked out your fair share. So have I. As fabulous as they are for their abundant black-purple berries, they tend to come up where we don’t want them. Given acreage, however, you may have a spot where you don’t object to their annual return—and they do come up every year from very deep roots.
When fall migrants come through, like Rose-breasted Grosbeaks, Gray Catbirds, and Swainson’s Thrushes and all their cousins, the berries will disappear like magic. And if any remain, leave it to the Northern Cardinals to finish them off. They rely on berries during molt to make their feathers red. Now who could turn down the opportunity to cultivate pokeweed knowing that?
To produce healthy, bright feather color, red-colored birds, like male Northern Cardinals, need an ample diet of lipids during molt, nutrition found in native berries like pokeweed (Phytolacca americana).
Oodles of native sunflowers dot the eastern US, but they’re mostly not the ones found in big-box stores or area nurseries. Instead, look for native sunflowers while armed with the scientific names. That’s your only chance of actually getting what you think you’re getting. Know, however, that many—but not all—native sunflowers tend to reach to the sky and then flop over. Some spread rapidly. Some readily reseed. All, however, provide essential seed for birds’ winter survival. That’s a fact worth knowing.
Eight Native Perennials Best Limited to Super-Sized Yards
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COLOR AND BENEFIT(S) N = NECTAR I=INSECTS S = SEED B = BERRIES | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| Boneset very similar to thoroughwort | Eupatorium perfoliatum E. serotinum | White N I |
3' tall, 3–4' spread; attracts pollinators; full sun to part shade; needs moisture; blooms in fall; all parts of plant toxic and bitter; best as border and in cottage and native gardens | Eastern US Zones 3–8 |
| Goldenrod, Canadian | Solidago canadensis | Yellow N I S |
4–5' tall, 4–5' spread; superior for birds seeking fall bugs; seeds for winter birds; blooms late summer; aggressive so best in wild areas, although not considered invasive; goldenrods wrongly blamed for hay fever, actually caused by plants like ragweed | Eastern US except FL, SC, GA, AL, and LA Zones 3–9 |
| Ironweed, New York (cultivars available) | Vernonia noveboracensis | Purple N I |
4–6' tall, 3–4' spread; prefers full sun and rich, moist, slightly acidic soils; beloved by butterflies and other insects; cultivars shorter | Eastern US except ME, NH, MS, LA, AR, MO, IA, MN, QI, MI, IL, and IN Zones 5–9 |
| Jewelweed, spotted synonymous with touch-me-not | Impatiens capensis | orange N |
2–3' tall on weak stems, 1.5–2.5' spread; technically an annual but reliably self-seeds; prime nectar source for fall migrating hummingbirds; damp shade, lowlands, bogs | Eastern US Zones 2–11 |
| Milkweed, common | Asclepias syriaca | Pink to mauve N I |
Up to 4' tall on stout stems, 9"–1' spread; rough, weedy; blooms June–Aug; drought tolerant; best in wild areas | Eastern US except FL Zones 3–9 |
| Mountain mints | Pycnanthemum spp. | Usually white | Esp. attractive to pollinators and thus birds; in spite of name, not alpine; underlying silver bracts give impression of being dusted by snow | As specified below |
| Hoary mountain mint | P. incanum | White, sometimes tinged in lavender N I |
2–3' tall, 3–4' spread; best in full sun, well-drained soil; vigorous growth, so prune rhizomes with spade in spring if undesired; showy flowers July–Sept; good in borders (if contained), naturalized areas | Eastern US except ME, LA, AR, MO, IA, MN, and WI Zones 4–8 |
| Virginia mountain mint | P. virginianum | White N I |
2–3' tall, 1–1.5' spread; full sun, well-drained soil; blooms July–Sept; tried and trouble-free in naturalized areas, contained borders | Eastern US except LA, FL, and SC Zones 3–7 |
| Pokeweed American | Phytolacca americana | White (blue-black berries) B |
4–10' tall, 2–3' spread; large-leafed, deep taproot; best in wild areas; all plant parts poisonous to humans; berries highly prized by fall migrants | Eastern US Zones 4–8 |
| Sunflower, rough (many sunflower species, cultivars; H. divaricatus one of shortest) | Helianthus divaricatus | Yellow N I s |
2–6' tall, 1–3' spread; showy blooms in part shade, July–Sept; divide every 2–3 years to control spread and maintain strong plants; tried and true, trouble-free | Cultivar Zones 3–8 |
Given space, then, here are additional native perennials for your consideration.
Detailed in the preceding tables, the following native perennials are listed here to identify them as plants that work well in small spaces. Consider them for narrow borders next to a patio, in planter boxes or large containers, or as accents against small shrubs or evergreens. These selections are low maintenance, compact, and colorful. All attract butterflies, and what attracts butterflies will also attract birds. Several also produce seeds favored by finches and winter sparrows.
Native Perennials for Containers
| Columbine, red, synonymous with wild columbine | Aquilegia canadensis |
| Coneflower: Blackeyed Susan | Rudbeckia hirta |
| Coreopsis: Threadleaf coreopsis | Coreopsis verticillata, esp. ‘Zagreb’ |
| Hyssop: Agastache ‘Purple Haze’ | Agastache ‘Purple Haze’ |
| Indian pink, synonymous with woodland pinkroot | Spigelia marilandica |
| Liatris: Dense blazing star | Liatris spicata |
| Hibiscus: Crimsoneyed rosemallow | Hibiscus moscheutos |
| Milkweed: Butterfly weed | Asclepias tuberosa |
| Monarda: Scarlet bee balm | Monarda didyma |
| Phlox: Garden phlox | Phlox paniculata ‘David’ |
| Salvia: Blue sage | Salvia azurea |
Many of the compact coreopsis species and their cultivars work well in a pots-and-patio garden, like the ‘Zagreb’ cultivar of threadleaf coreopsis (Coreopsis verticillata) shown here.
Next, with trees, shrubs and tall understory plants, vines, and perennial “flowers” mapped out, look for landscape gaps or spots you envision needing some sort of accent. Perennial native ornamental grasses reach varying heights and form varying degrees of “droop.” A few, in fact, are glamorously upright, charmingly tall, providing much-needed height amid modestly sized perennials. A few offer contrasting colors of yellow, bronze, or pink, especially for winter interest. Some arch slightly, adding grace against otherwise vertical perennials or permanent structures. With varying heights and behaviors, then, native grasses can transform a yard or garden from ordinary into extraordinary.
What can native ornamental grasses add to a birdscape, you ask? The obvious benefit, of course, is seed—lots of tiny seeds for finches and winter sparrows, including migrants like Lincoln’s Sparrows, Vesper Sparrows, and Savannah Sparrows—depending, of course, on the overall surroundings. Sometimes Dark-eyed Juncos ride grass stems down, nearly to the ground, and stretch to reach the flimsy seed heads. Mostly, though, finches and winter sparrows forage on the ground below the arching stems, scratching up scattered seeds among the litter. Other birds, too, forage for fallen seed, including Northern Cardinals, Mourning Doves, Black-capped and Carolina Chickadees, and Tufted Titmice.
Because of their small bill structure, Dark-eyed Juncos, among other winter finches and sparrows, prefer the tiny seeds of grasses.
Grasses, however, add another resource for birds: nest sites. Ground nesters, especially during early spring attempts, will frequently nest under the arching grass stems, sometimes tucking nests into the edge of the clump, seeking the protection of the density there. Given that avian habit, if you plan to prune grasses annually, make certain to do so in late winter, well prior to any nesting attempts.
Because almost all songbirds use grasses in some part of their nests, many will check out any grass clump, break off suitably sized pieces, and weave them artfully into their abodes. Catching them in the act takes as much luck as winning the lottery, but if you do, you’ll watch an amazing check-this, test-that, and finally bite-this-off process. You have to wonder what thoughts go through their tiny brains as they check one grass blade after another. How do they make the choice of one over the other? We’ll never know.
Here are some ideas you may want to think about when making your final choice(s) for native ornamental grasses.
Consider: Adding grass clumps expands biodiversity. Because native grasses host a number of insects, especially grasshoppers, avian diets benefit from those insects. Perhaps nothing else in your yard or garden—trees, shrubs, vines, or perennials—hosts the insects that grasses host.
Consider: Native grasses produce seeds favored by birds, especially little birds. While occasionally birds ride flexible grass stems to the ground (always an amusing exercise to watch) and then forage among the seed heads there, more often birds simply forage on the ground around the grass clumps, gathering fallen seeds. Allow room for their foraging.
Snow and ice crystals bend the blades of a sizable clump of switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), forming numerous sheltered “coves” for birds and other wildlife seeking protection against predators and winter’s elements.
Consider: Overarching grass clumps provide nest sites for early-spring ground-level nesters. When little else offers shelter in early spring, native grasses fill the bill. Planted in an already semi-protected place, grass clumps can serve as year-round shelter and/or spring and summer nest sites. Take protection into account as you consider planting spots.
Let’s get going, then, with some possible native ornamental grasses to add assets to your birdscape.
A grass of the original tallgrass prairie, little bluestem serves a number of botanical purposes. Its deep roots make it drought tolerant and help control soil erosion. Masses of it, or at least a group of clumps, support prairie bugs and, therefore, feed yard birds like Song Sparrows, Northern Cardinals, and Eastern Bluebirds. While seed heads provide an important winter food source for finches and winter sparrows, choosing little bluestem as ornamental clumps throughout your cottage garden, along a walk, or as a border makes good ecological sense.
My goodness, bottlebrush grass is pretty stuff! Who wouldn’t love the 9- to 10-inch-long flower spikes edging a walk, bordering a garden, grouped in clumps as a backdrop for short perennials, or winding along the property line. Its specific epithet hystrix means “hedgehog,” a nod to the seed head’s seeming semblance to hedgehog quills. Well, okay, maybe some imagination there. Since the grass takes part shade and wants well-drained soil, this bunchgrass works well along woodland edges, delineating one part of the yard or garden from the other.
Grasses attract critters like katydids (shown here) and grasshoppers; and they, in turn, are favorite foods for many birds, including Eastern Bluebirds.
Like other prairie grasses, deeply rooted Indian grass serves well on banks for erosion control. While it’s slow to establish, you’ll love its upright stance—although it may flop over in rich, moist soils. In its preferred poor, dry soils, however, it retains a different profile from many other “weeping” grasses and their arching stems. Put Indian grass in the background, or blend it with perennials in a prairie sweep. Seed heads, attractive as winter interest in landscaping, also provide winter interest to birds—as a nutritious lunch. Horticulturalists recommend cutting the plant to the ground in late winter, before any new sprouts appear.
Perhaps the most popular of the native ornamentals, prairie dropseed grass gets its name from the tiny, round mature seeds that drop from their hulls in autumn. A finely textured, hairlike grass, it has showy, fragrant, pink- and brown-tinted cream-colored flowers that soar well above the grass blades themselves, sometimes topping at 3 feet tall. Probably the flower’s most interesting feature, however, is its aroma, described variously but most often as having a hint of coriander leaf. Foliage turns golden orange in fall, fading to bronze in winter. Little birds, those seedeaters of the winter world, forage on the ground beneath, picking fallen seeds from the litter.
Funny name, that sideoats grama grass. But this interesting plant gets its name honestly—because its oat-like seed spikes hang from only one side of its flowering stems. The bluish-gray leaf blades form dense clumps, so planting in masses makes the best show. In autumn, grasses turn golden brown, sometimes with tinges of red or orange—most likely depending on moisture and soil conditions. It’s one of the few ornamental grasses that also function satisfactorily as turf grass, mowed to 2 or 3 inches. Again, for birds, it’s all about the seed and any bugs the plant might hide.
Because it can reach up to 7 feet tall, switchgrass probably wouldn’t work well in mini yards, but potted in a deep container, it could certainly add interest on a patio. While a single clump could add an accent to a small garden, I cultivate a ragged row (who wants marching soldiers in the landscape?) that sets off an unmowed area from the rest. Every fall, during migration, I watch the little seedeaters forage on both the flexible stems and the surrounding ground. But it’s after the winter holidays, when I decorate a yard tree, that the real fun begins. By tying switchgrass seed heads to the tree branches, I can giggle at the Dark-eyed Juncos stretching to reach the farthest morsels. Carolina Chickadees, Carolina Wrens, and Tufted Titmice do their fair share of reaching, too.
In winter, when bugs have disappeared, small birds with small bills turn to small seeds for sustenance; so Carolina Wrens are always on the hunt for fresh, viable grass seeds.
Ornamental grasses drop seeds at their bases, providing great foraging for winter finches and sparrows, like this Song Sparrow, a switchgrass seed (Panicum virgatum) in its beak.
About the List
The native grasses listed in this chapter are, according to the United States Department of Agriculture Plant Database (online at www.plants.usda.gov), native to states as indicated. Note, however, that while a plant may be native in your state, it may not be native to every part of your state and certainly not to every eco-region. Before making final choices, consider soil texture, moisture, slope, and required sunlight. Your planting zone and eco-region combined will determine suitable growing conditions in your locale. To find your planting zone, check online at http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/.
The plant lists in this reference are nots, nor are they intended to be, all-inclusive. Rather, the plants here were chosen because:
1. They are attractive to birds because, in some way, they meet birds’ needs for food, shelter, and/or nesting.
2. They are easily grown, well behaved, and suitable for landscaping in various settings, as described.
Estimated height and spread sizes are shown for mature ornamental grasses. Generally, though, ornamental grasses should be cut to within 6 to 8 inches of the ground each spring prior to their greening.
Here, then, is the table detailing six native ornamental grasses for your consideration.
Add grass clumps to your yard map now, locating them appropriately and labeling them.
Native Ornamental Grasses for Any-Sized Yard
| COMMON NAME | SCIENTIFIC NAME | COMMENTS | NATIVE, PLANTING ZONES |
| Bluestem, little | Schizachyrium scoparium | 2–4' tall, 1.5–2' spread; full sun, dry to medium well-drained soil; performs well in poor soil; purplish-bronze seed heads; winter interest; tolerates drought, air pollution; low maintenance in sun-baked areas; attractive to insects, esp. grasshoppers, a primary late-summer food source for birds | Most of US Zones 3–9 |
| Bottlebrush grass | Elymus hystrix | 2.5–3' tall, 1–1.5' spread; upright; full sun to part shade; tolerates drought, variety of soils; easily grown; showy flowers on 9–10" heads, Sept–Oct; good in clumps, masses, naturalized in light shade; will self-seed in optimum conditions; seeds attract birds | Eastern US except FL, MS, and LA Zones 5–9 |
| Indian grass | Sorghastrum nutans | 3–5' tall, 1–2' spread; noted for upright form; full sun, dry to medium soil; easily grown; tolerates drought and air pollution; blooms Sept-Feb; good in masses or vertical accents; seeds attract birds | Eastern US Zones 4–9 |
| Prairie dropseed | Sporobolus heterolepis | 2–3' tall, 2–3' spread; full sun, dry to medium soil; easily grown; tolerates drought and air pollution; showy, fragrant flowers Aug–Sept; good winter interest; good as ground cover, in rain gardens, naturalized; does not freely self-seed; attracts birds | Eastern US except NH, VT, ME, MA,WV, TN, AL, MS, LA, and FL Zones 3–9 |
| Sideoats grama grass sometimes called just sideoats | Bouteloua curtipendula | 1.5–2.5' tall, 1.5–2' spread; full sun, dry to medium soil; tolerates drought, shallow rocky soil, air pollution; showy purplish flowers July–Aug; cut clumps to ground in late winter; may self-seed in optimum conditions; best in masses, rock gardens, slopes; seeds attract birds | Eastern US Zones 4–9 |
| Switchgrass | Panicum virgatum | 5–7' tall, 2–3' spread; full sun to part shade, variety of soils; tolerates drought, wet, air pollution; important component of tallgrass prairie; spreads slowly by rhizome; airy blooms and seed heads, July–Feb; good as accent, group, mass, screen and in perennial borders, water gardens; seeds attract birds | Eastern US Zones 5–9 |
Ferns and sedums are herbaceous perennials that are worth mentioning separately here—just in case you have the perfect spot begging for either or both of these plants. Ferns offer many of the same benefits as grass clumps—shelter and potential nest sites—but minus the seeds. Sedums, like ferns, form dandy hiding spots for all kinds of little ground-loving creatures—many of which make dandy meals for birds. Sedums also sport lovely little blossoms attractive to bugs. And guess what loves bugs! So maybe you have the perfect spot for a cluster of either or both of these plant species.
While the eastern US boasts a good many native ferns, most are strictly woodland plants. So unless you live in a densely shaded forest or have rich loamy soil against the north side of your house, ferns may seem completely out of reach. Not so.
In fact, ostrich ferns (Matteuccia struthiopteris) will grow in nearly full sun—as long as the temps don’t soar too high (preferably in Zones 3–7). In fact, in parts of the country, ostrich ferns are called “foundation ferns” due to their popularity as plants next to the house, concealing the structure’s foundation. In part or full shade, these lovely ferns add grace and delicacy to the yard or garden, and birds find shelter among a dense stand.
While ostrich ferns can reach heights of 5 or 6 feet, most tend to stay at 2 to 3 feet. Rabbits won’t bother them, and they tolerate clay soils. They do like moisture, but they don’t want wet feet. In winter, they die back to the ground, only to unfurl in “fiddleheads” in the spring. (See photo in Chapter 4, page 66.) By late summer, they tend to look a bit ratty, so removing or pruning the unlovely fronds tidies their appearance.
On the other hand, one of the easiest-to-grow ferns is the woodland Christmas fern (Polystichum acrostichoides), so named because it’s evergreen. Usually about 2 or 3 feet tall, it likes part shade and rich, well-drained but moist soil. Though Christmas fern tolerates less sunlight than does ostrich fern, it’s happy in a broader range of planting zones, Zones 2–9. In short, Christmas fern works well if planted in appropriate spots in the landscape—like along a shady area next to a wall, in masses along a north-facing slope to help hold eroding soil, or in native woodland gardens.
Like ferns, sedums in clusters provide cover for tiny critters that birds find tasty. While you’ll find a good many sedum varieties on nursery shelves, not all are native. One native in particular has attracted my attention, commonly called three-leaved stonecrop (Sedum turnatum). Because it functions as a ground cover in full sun and part shade, it’s a versatile, attractive, well-behaved addition to a trouble spot. Unlike ferns that do not bloom, this sedum produces a showy white starlike blossom in early spring.
Although, like most other native sedums, three-leaved stonecrop dies back in winter, it’s hardy in Zones 4–8. Rabbits and deer don’t like it, and it’s drought and air pollution tolerant. In short, this is a perfect plant for many situations and locations, especially in rock gardens and in pots-and-patio gardens, tucked into nooks and crannies for a touch of green that requires no further attention on your part. Stems are easily broken off if it spreads beyond where you want it, and those same stems will readily take root tucked into loose soil. Many plants for the price of one—if you’re not in a hurry.
Native three-leaved stonecrop (Sedum turnatum) works well among stones and fossils.
With this rather wide-ranging list of herbaceous perennials suitable for yards large and small, you’ll likely be limited only by time, space, and budget in offering a vast array of seeds, nectar, bugs, nest sites, and nest-building materials to lure birds to your habitat. While trees anchor and shrubs fill in, perennials add color—whether we’re talking about blossom color, seed-head color, or vegetative color. At the same time, perennials add a variety of food sources across all season. And since perennials are small, even if your space is also small, you can include a nice selection. Of course, the wider the diversity of plants, the wider the diversity of birds!
Isn’t the prospect exciting?
So update your map now, identifying and locating the perennials—flowers, grasses, and maybe ferns and sedums—that you plan to add.
That’s it: the last of the many kinds of native plants we’re recommending for landscaping. With anchor trees, filler shrubs and vines, an array of colorful perennial food sources, and a selection of grasses, you’re armed with enough choices to make a delightful birdscape in virtually any location.
What’s left? Water. On to Step 4. Your plan is almost finished!