TRAVELING IN WEST AFRICA CAN BE EMPOWERING FOR WOMEN—precisely because it is so difficult. You must utilize every available resource to make it through each day. When you finally find that market or village you are seeking, it is like unearthing rubies. “The real trick is learning when to say yes, and to not be afraid,” says Suzanne Kratzig, who lived here as a Peace Corps volunteer. “You might end up sleeping with a family in the middle of nowhere beneath the stars, but that’s great.” The warmth and hospitality of its people make Benin a particularly welcoming destination for female travelers. The following are some highlights:
• So many millions of men, women, and children were shackled and sold as slaves to the New World in the sixteenth century, that this part of West Africa became known as the “Slave Coast.” In Ouidah, ask around for Martine da Souza, who gives tours of their final days in the native land. After being sold in the market, the slaves-to-be were led around the Tree of Forgetfulness (so they wouldn’t miss Benin as much) and the Tree of Return (so their spirit would return here after they died) and finally to the shoreline, where they were dragged onto ships. La Porte du Non Retour, or the Gate of No Return, is now a deeply moving memorial to Africa’s lost sons and daughters.
• Some 65 percent of Beninese practice voodoo, a belief that natural forces like rain and wind have spiritual forces behind them. Practitioners build shrines out of small mounds of earth and offer their gods alcohol, flowers, food, and the blood of animals sacrificed in their honor. January 10 is National Voodoo Day, and a vibrant festival is held in Ouidah, where you can partake in dancing fueled by copious amounts of sodabe, a local palm liquor that will make you go blind if you’re not careful (or so the locals say). Look out for the Mami Wata worshippers, who dress in white and adorn themselves with baubles and beads. Mostly women, they are considered very powerful.
• For some relaxation, head out to Grand Popo, a beach surrounded by fishing villages about two hours from Cotonou. The Awalé Plage area is a bit more upscale, with European-style cafes and cabana bars; to camp out with Rastafarians, go to Coco Beach.
• Upon arrival to any Beninese town, visit the mayor’s office and ask for the local women’s group. With luck, a guide will take you to the town’s textile or craft cooperative, where you can buy directly from the artisans. Another great way to interact with Beninese women is to sit with them in the market, help collect water at the well, or join in the daily pounding of yams with a pestle and mortar. “Stay there until you lose your fear, until you are comfortable, until you realize there is no difference between there and here—that when any group of women gets together, they gossip about neighbors, children, men, life,” says Suzanne. “They’ll probably laugh at you, because Beninese laugh at everything, but they will appreciate your attempt to get to know their culture.”