Berberis (Barberry) (Berberidaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous or evergreen, depending on variety
Height	Up to 3m but some varieties much less
Flowers	Variable – yellow, orange or red depending on variety; mainly April/May
Best position	Sun or semi-shade
Soil	Any except waterlogged

There are numerous varieties of Berberis: some are evergreen, others are deciduous; some are tall and sprawling, others are small and compact. What they all have in common, however, is their ability to attract bees – and their vicious thorns which clothe the branches. One of the best newcomers is the evergreen Berberis darwinii ‘Compacta’, which grows up to a metre high and has a very dense habit, making it ideal for the smaller garden. It is also ideal to use as a hedge, forming an almost impenetrable barrier. It has rich orange flowers followed by blue berries in the autumn, and small, glossy leaves which, when new, are tinged with red.

Spring/summer

Cotoneaster (Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous or evergreen, depending on variety
Height	Up to 4m, depending on variety
Flowers	White/pink; May/June
Best position	Any
Soil	Any

Cotoneasters are so ubiquitous in the British garden that you barely give them a second glance. But to bees they are one of the most attractive plants in the garden when they are in flower. There are numerous varieties but one of the most popular is Cotoneaster horizontalis. As its name implies, its normal growth is along the ground, but if you plant it against a wall you will appreciate its herringbone pattern of branches when the leaves fall in the autumn. It rarely grows more than a metre, but at the other end of the scale is Cotoneaster lacteus, which can grow up to 4m. C. lacteus is an evergreen with large, dark green leaves held on arching branches. It holds its fruit well into the winter and I have used some branches as decoration in the house at Christmas when I have not been able to get hold of holly.

Clematis (C. armandii, C. montana, C. x jackmanii and C. viticella)

(Ranunculaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Height	C. armandii – up to 5m C. montana – up to 9m C. x jackmanii – up to 4.5m C. viticella – up to 6m
Flowers	C. armandii – March to May C. montana – May C. x jackmanii – July to September C. viticella – July to September/October
Best position	Sun or partial shade
Soil	Well drained

Although clematis provide little in the way of nectar, they are valuable pollen producers with species in flower from March right through to October. The first to flower is C. armandii, an evergreen plant, with dark, leathery leaves and fragrant white flowers. Some people have reported it as being on the tender side, but I have had one on a north-facing wall, in quite a breezy situation, and have had to be fairly ruthless in pruning it back because it has grown so well. Be careful if you grow an early-flowering Viburnum or Daphne, though, because the fragrances can sometimes ‘clash’ with one another.

Next in the flowering calendar comes C. montana, of which there are dozens of varieties in varying colours, but the ‘original’ is white. It is a vigorous climber which needs a stout support, such as a pergola or wall, or better still, let it climb into a tree. This clematis needs no pruning, except to cut out dead or damaged growth after flowering.

Then there is C. x jackmanii. Again, there are numerous varieties to choose from, but perhaps the most popular is ‘Superba’, which has large, velvety, dark purple flowers. Because it is a late-flowering clematis pruning is required although this is straightforward enough – just cut back the stems to a pair of strong buds about 20cm above ground level in February or early March, before new growth starts to appear.

Finally we have the viticella group. These clematis are the ones to grow if you have trouble with clematis wilt (a fungus which enters the plant through a wound and quickly causes rapid wilting and can kill the plant). A lovely variety is C. viticella ‘Alba Luxurians’, which has white and green flowers with a hint of pale violet. Another, less intricately coloured, one is C. viticella ‘Etoile Violette’, which has velvety, deep purple flowers. As with other late-flowering clematis, pruning should be carried out in early spring by simply cutting back all the old growth to a pair of strong buds about 20cm above ground level.

Summer

Rosa (Rose) (Rosaceae)
(Rosa forrestiana (rosy crimson), R. macrophylla (clear pink), R. moyesii (dark pink), R. rugosa* (rose) (page 91) and R. rugosa alba* (white))
Good for	Pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	1.8m – 3m, depending on variety
Flowers	Single flush in June except those marked *, which are repeat flowering
Best position	Sun or partial shade, sheltered
Soil	Does best in fertile, well-drained but moisture-retentive soil, but can tolerate poorer, even clay, soil

According to a survey done for the television programme Gardener’s World the rose is the nation’s favourite flower. I suspect, however, that when most people think of a rose it is the quintessentially English double bloom that comes to mind and not the single blossom of the species rose. This is unfortunate, because it is the latter to which bees are most attracted. Some of the best ‘bee’ roses are listed above and, although they are not as flamboyant as the double varieties, they have a charm all of their own, and they produce beautifully coloured hips in the autumn.

Philadelphus (Mock orange)

(Hydrangeaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 4.5m depending on variety, but can be hard pruned
Flowers	White; June/July
Best position	Sun or partial shade
Soil	Moist but well drained

Mock orange has a distinct orange blossom fragrance (hence its common name) and is extremely attractive to bees. There are over 75 species and cultivars of Philadelphus, so there is bound to be one to suit your garden, but be sure to choose one that has single flowers. Philadelphus microphyllus is a fairly low-growing variety (about a metre) and has small, glossy leaves and, of course, single flowers. If you want a larger shrub then try Philadelphus ‘Beauclerk’: this will grow up to 2 metres with large single flowers which are a good 5cm in diameter.

Leptospermum scoparium (Manuka or tea tree)

(Myrtaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Half-hardy
Evergreen
Height	Up to 3m
Flowers	White; June to August
Best position	Full sun, sheltered
Soil	Fertile, well drained

This is the shrub, which grows wild in New Zealand, from which the renowned manuka honey comes from. Manuka honey commands a high premium because of its reported medicinal benefits, although all honey (especially heather honey) has valuable antiseptic properties. Although it has another common name of ‘tea tree’ this is not the shrub that tea tree oil comes from, which is Melaleuca alternifolia – a good example of where knowing the Latin name is of benefit.

Leptospermum will thrive in milder, warmer parts of the UK but elsewhere it needs some tender loving care, especially over the winter months when more than a couple of degrees of frost will sound a death knell. Despite the fact that it needs a little more looking after, it is well worth growing because bees love it.

Hydrangea aspera ‘Macrophylla’ (page 9)

(Hydrangeaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Half-hardy – may need some protection in winter
Deciduous
Height	Up to 2m
Flowers	Purple/white; July/August
Best position	Sun or partial shade
Soil	Does best in fertile, well-drained but moisture-retentive neutral or slightly acid soil, but can tolerate poorer soil

Hydrangeas are popular garden plants, but not all hydrangeas are suitable for bees. The large ‘mop head’ varieties are sterile or semi-sterile and of no use to bees. It is the ‘lace cap’ varieties which are the ones to grow, and in particular I have singled out Hydrangea aspera ‘Macrophylla’. It is a handsome shrub with a mass of small, fertile flowers, surrounded by larger, sterile flowers. On a visit to Levens Hall in Cumbria towards the end of August, I was mesmerized by one such shrub positively alive with honeybees – a real treat for both gardener and bee-keeper.

Summer/autumn

Eucryphia x nymansensis ‘Nymansay’ (Leatherwood) (page 109) (Eucryphiaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Mostly hardy
Evergreen
Height	Up to 10m (4m in ten years)
Flowers	White, open cup-shaped, large flowers; August and September
Best position	Sheltered in full sun
Soil	Well drained, moisture retentive, fertile

This is an invaluable shrub for bees during late summer and early autumn – they flock to it like, well, bees to a honey pot! You do need space for this shrub because, given suitable conditions, it can grow up to ten metres and it seems a shame to prune or cut it back, with the inevitable loss of flowering material, just to keep it within bounds.

Calluna vulgaris (Ling heather) (page 93)

(Ericaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Evergreen
Height	45cm
Flowers	Varies; August to November, depending on variety
Best position	Sun
Soil	Acid

The name Calluna derives from the Greek kallunein, meaning to cleanse; so the name could come from the fact that heather twigs were used as brooms, or from the plant’s medicinal properties.

You can see purple cushions of ling heather clothing heaths and moorlands throughout Britain in August and September – it really is a sight to behold. For the garden, though, there are hundreds of cultivated varieties which are worth growing and which will attract no end of bees – here are but three: C. vulgaris ‘Anthony Davis’ has grey leaves and white flowers; ‘Joy Vanstone’ has gold leaves which turn bronze in autumn, and mauve-pink flowers; ‘Wickwar Flame’ has gold leaves which turn orange and then red, and lilac flowers. All hold the Award of Garden Merit from the Royal Horticultural Society.

It is ling heather which produces the ‘real’ heather honey.

Flowering times of selected shrubs and climbers

Figure 13 Flowering times of selected shrubs

Trees

Winter/spring

Corylus avellana (Hazel) (page 184) (Betulaceae)
Good for	Pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 10m
Flowers	Catkins appear before leaves; February to April
Best position	Sun or part shade
Soil	Moderately fertile, moist but well drained

The common hazel has yellow pollen-bearing catkins (sometimes known as lamb’s tails) from February to April, which are a valuable early source of pollen for bees. It also produces edible nuts in the autumn.

Technically the hazel is a tree, but it can be coppiced to produce straight branches which are used to make hurdles, beanpoles and stakes for hedge laying. Coppicing is where the plant is cut back to low stumps (or stools) every few years to promote the growth of straight stems. If the tree is coppiced it seldom grows higher than 6 metres.

Corylus avellana (hazel)

Spring

Salix caprea (Goat willow) (Salicaceae)
Good for	Pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	6–9m
Flowers	Catkins; March to April
Best position	Warm, sunny site
Soil	Moderately fertile, moist but well drained

Goat willow is a large shrub or small tree that bears catkins at the end of its branches in the early spring. It is the male form, with ovoid catkins rather like powder puffs, which is attractive to bees. The female form has narrower, longer catkins which are grey (the well-known ‘pussy willow’). In order to make sure you buy the correct form, wait until flowering time and then buy a containerized plant.

As well as being useful to bees the goat willow has also served man well – all willow bark contains salicin, from which aspirin was originally derived, and the stems are very flexible, making them ideal for use in basket making.

Aesculus hippocastanum (Horse chestnut)

(Hippocastanaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 24m!
Flowers	White with small yellow spots which turn pink; April/May
Best position	Full sun or partial shade
Soil	Any except waterlogged

This is also known as the conker tree. Conkers (or ‘cheesers’, ‘cheggies’ or ‘obblyonkers’, depending on where you live), beloved of schoolchildren throughout the country, are the seeds of the horse chestnut. (Is it me, or does it appear lately that fewer children are practising the age-old game of ‘conkers’? I was very proud to have a sixer at one stage in my conkering career.) Conkers form inside spiny green capsules after the candle-like blooms have been pollinated by bees.

Because of its size this really is not a tree for even an average-sized garden but I have included it in the gazetteer because it is such a beneficial plant to bees.

Crataegus monogyna (Hawthorn, quickthorn or may)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 6m
Flowers	White; late April, May
Best position	Full sun, partial shade
Soil	Any except waterlogged

Hawthorn must be one of the least fussy and most versatile trees that we have. It will grow in just about any location, including coastal and exposed areas, and, as well as making a beautifully shaped tree, it can be grown as a hedge. It is a joy to behold in spring when it is covered with white flowers, which, when pollinated, turn pink and produce abundant red berries in the autumn. Some cultivated varieties have pink or even red flowers, but beware of those varieties with double flowers; these are of no use to bees.

There is an old saying, ‘’Ne’er cast a clout till May be out’, which means that you should not go without your outdoor clothing until May is over. Some people regard this as being the month of May, but others think it refers to the flower of the may which is in blossom in mid– to late spring.

May blossom was also used to garland the May Queen (I cannot help but think it would be a bit too prickly) and it has been surmised that the old rhyme ‘Here we go gathering nuts in May’ is a corruption of ‘Here we go gathering knots of may’, meaning collecting bunches, or ‘knots’, of may blossom for the celebrations. Some people, however, deem it bad luck to actually bring may blossom into the house.

Whatever the tales surrounding it, hawthorn provides pollen and varying amounts of nectar for our bees and I, for one, look on it as the harbinger of summer.

Spring/summer

Ilex aquifolium (Holly) (Aquifoliaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Evergreen
Height	Up to 20m
Flowers	Insignificant white flowers; May and June
Best position	Will grow in sun or shade
Soil	Moderately fertile, moist but well drained

Ilex aquifolium is the common holly, which is technically a tree but is usually found as a shrub. They do not mind being pruned so are ideal specimens to be shaped into topiary. There are dozens of different varieties, many of them variegated, all of which are either male or female, so if you want berries on your female plant you must be sure to have a male plant nearby for the bees to visit too. A favourite of mine is Ilex aquifolium ‘Silver Queen’ (which is a little confusing as it is a male plant), which has lovely dark green foliage with a cream edge. Very similar is I. aquifolium ‘Argentea Marginata’ (which is female) so I have both in my garden to guarantee some berries.

Sorbus aucuparia (Rowan or mountain ash)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Ultimately 12m
Flowers	White; May to June
Best position	Full sun or partial shade
Soil	Almost any type except waterlogged

The rowan is a very versatile tree, growing happily in cities as well as in the countryside and at high altitudes. It is reputed to have magical powers and can often be seen in churchyards to stop ghosts disturbing the living, and near homes and on farms to protect people and livestock from witches. On a more practical note, the berries are high in Vitamin C and, although bitter and all but inedible raw, when used in jam or jelly they make a traditional accompaniment to game dishes. Birds love the berries too and, of course, bees love the flowers.

Summer

Castanea sativa (Sweet chestnut or Spanish chestnut) (Fagaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 15m
Flowers	Catkins; late June/ July
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Free draining

This is not to be confused with horse chestnut, which is an entirely different species. This chestnut, which is thought to have been introduced into Britain by the Romans, is best known for its edible fruits, which can be roasted, used in confectionery, ground to make flour, and are the main ingredient of stuffing for the Christmas turkey!

The catkins contain the flowers of both sexes with the female flowers in the lower part and the male in the upper. Once pollinated the female flowers produce brown nuts which are protected by spiny outer cases, designed to deter squirrels.

Catalpa bignonioides (Indian bean tree) (page 87)

(Bignoniaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 15m
Flowers	White with yellow and purple flecks; July/August
Best position	Full sun, sheltered
Soil	Well drained/light, moist

Although not native to Britain, having been introduced from the United States in 1726, it has become a favourite in large gardens here, not least because of its large clusters of flowers. Once pollinated (by bees, naturally!), thin, green, bean-like pods (which turn brown) are formed, giving rise to part of its common name.

There is a much smaller variety, ‘Nana’, which reaches about 3.5 metres – much better for smaller gardens.

Tilia (Lime or linden)

(Tiliaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 35m, depending on type
Flowers	Pale yellow; July/August
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Any except waterlogged

First of all be sure not to grow Tilia petiolaris, T. oliveri or T. orbicularis – these are hazardous to bees.

Lime trees have had some bad press in recent years. The once ubiquitous street tree, the common lime (Tilia vulgaris), has fallen out of favour for several reasons: first, because of the honeydew secreted from aphids which feed on it and the subsequent mess; second, because it loses its leaves relatively early; third, because it suckers prodigiously, which means extra maintenance (and therefore cost); and fourth, its size. No wonder it is doomed.

There are other limes, however, which can be grown and which bees will flock to, the most obvious ones being the small-leaved lime (Tilia cordata) and the broad-leaved lime (T. platyphyllos). There is another, the Mongolian lime (T. mongolica), which is well worth growing: it is much smaller than many other limes, reaching a height of 15m, but only after 20 years or so.

The individual flowers of lime open at night and last for about a week; nectar is secreted mainly during the morning throughout the flowering time. In many European countries the flowers are collected and dried and used for making tea or a tisane.

Tetradium daniellii (Chinese bee tree or bee-bee tree) 

(Rutaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 15m
Flowers	Creamy white; August
Best position	Full sun or light, dappled shade
Soil	Well drained but moist

As you can guess from its common names, this tree is very attractive to bees! Its broad heads of flowers appear late in the season, providing a welcome source of food for our buzzy friends. Part of its Latin name commemorates a certain William Daniell who, in the 1860s, collected specimens of the tree in the Tientsin province of China.

Summer/autumn

Sophora japonica, syn. Styphnolobium japonicum (Japanese pagoda tree or Chinese scholars’ tree) (Fabaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	Up to 15m
Flowers	Panicles of creamy white flowers; August/September
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Light, well drained

Despite its name implying that the pagoda tree comes from Japan it is in fact native to China. It found its way to Japan and then, in 1753, to Britain. It makes a beautiful, fairly large tree, with a profusion of creamy white flowers held on panicles, which are extremely useful for bees as they appear late in the season.

Flowering times of selected trees

Figure 14 Flowering times of selected trees

Edible fruits

I have decided to create a separate list of edible fruits. They seemed a little out of place tucked in among the trees and shrubs and they are so dependent on the good auspices of our buzzy friends that I think they deserve a section of their own. This is by no means an exhaustive list; it is a selection of a few fruiting plants that you may want to grow in your own garden.

Spring

Ribes uva-crispa var. reclinatum (Gooseberry) (Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	1.5m
Flowers	Small, white; March/April
Best position	Sun or partial shade, sheltered
Soil	Does best in fertile, well-drained but moisture-retentive soil

Gooseberries are one of the first bush fruits to flower in the spring so some fruits are ready to be picked just when the elderflower comes into blossom. The blend of gooseberry and elderflower is really a marriage made in heaven, although I’m not sure how or when the two got together. Suffice it to say, if you have not tried this sublime combination, get hold of (or better still, make) some jam, fool or curd and I can guarantee you will not want to share it.

There are several varieties worth growing but perhaps the best-known is ‘Careless’, which was introduced in 1855 and is still popular. It is a ‘traditional’ variety bearing green fruit, but not all gooseberries are green: ‘Whinham’s Industry’ is a red-fruited variety, as is ‘Lancashire Lad’ (I had to include it!) which dates from 1824.

If there is a geographical area traditionally associated with gooseberries then it has to be Lancashire and Cheshire (just as rhubarb is associated with Yorkshire). During the 1860s gooseberry clubs sprang up in these areas and there was fierce competition for who could grow the finest, biggest berries.

Pruning gooseberries to keep them fruiting is fairly straightforward: during the dormant winter season cut out any dead or diseased stems and any crossing over the centre. The idea of the latter is to keep the centre of the bush open to light and air to minimize the risk of disease. If some of the branches are becoming too long, shorten them by about half, cutting back to a young shoot.

Prunus domestica (Plum including greengages)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	2 – 4.5m, depending on rootstock
Flowers	Pink; March/April
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Well drained but moisture retentive

Usually when you ask someone to name some varieties of plum they say ‘Victoria’ and then grind to a halt. On one nursery website I found 75 different plums with wonderful names such as Warwickshire Drooper, Sanctus Hubertus and Guthrie’s Late Green. Some varieties start flowering as early as late March, while others still have not flowered some two to three weeks later. The blossom appears before the leaves and will last about a week. Although many plum varieties are self-fertile (which means you do not need another variety nearby to ensure pollination), the yield will improve considerably if bees work the flowers.

As with other fruiting trees you can decide how big you want your tree to grow by choosing an appropriate rootstock to which the fruiting top part has been grafted – for plums these range from semi-dwarfing to very vigorous, so any size of garden can accommodate a plum tree.

Malus domestica (Apple)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	1.2 – 4.5m, depending on the rootstock
Flowers	White/pale pink; April/May
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Moist, but well drained

Everyone can grow an apple tree in their garden, no matter how small or large it is. (Actually, I should say ‘two apple trees’, since they need to be cross-pollinated by another cultivar flowering at the same time to achieve a crop of fruit.) Even if your garden is very small this should not pose too much of a problem because you can even grow apple trees in containers. This is possible because the eventual size of the tree will depend on the rootstock to which the fruiting top part has been grafted. For example an M27 rootstock will produce a tree with a mature height of about 1.2m, whereas with an M25 rootstock you will get a tree up to 4.5m high.

Your tree does not necessarily have to be ‘tree-shaped’ either: you can train it into different shapes so that it can be grown against a wall, for example, or even by the side of a path so that you can step over it.

There are hundreds of varieties to choose from too. You can have eating or cooking apples, or ones that double up as both. Your local climate will dictate to a certain degree which varieties you can grow successfully so it is worth contacting a specialist nursery to ask for their advice.

Whatever tree you choose it will have to be pruned in order to get the best crop but that is a subject that is beyond the scope of this book – there are numerous texts which will give sound advice.

Pyrus communis (Pear)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	2 – 6m, depending on the rootstock
Flowers	White; April/May
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Moist, but well drained

Much of what I have said about apples also applies to pears: you need to decide how big a tree you want, what shape you want it to be, and if you want a pear for eating or cooking. I have two lovely varieties in my garden, a ‘Black Worcester’, which is a historic culinary variety dating back to 1575, and a dessert one called ‘Durondeau’, which originates from Belgium. You can even get varieties from which to make perry (a little like cider but made from pears). As with all other fruiting trees, pears need bees for pollination, so that in itself is a good enough reason to grow them.

Prunus avium (Sweet cherry)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	3 – 6m, depending on rootstock
Flowers	White; April/May
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Well drained but moisture retentive

Like other fruit trees there are numerous varieties of edible cherry which have been cultivated for increased size and sweetness and less disease. A couple of British-raised sweet varieties are ‘Penny’ and ‘Merton Premier’, which are just as cherries should taste; but beware – birds like them too so you will have to keep a good lookout and gather them as soon as they are ripe enough to eat. The most common acid cherry, which is suitable only for culinary use, is ‘Morello’, but there are others available, such as ‘Kentish Red’ and ‘Montmorency’. Be careful when you buy your tree to make sure which type it is otherwise you could end up with rather more tart-tasting fruit than you expected.

Ribes nigrum, R. rubrum (Blackcurrant, red and white currant

(Grossulariaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	1.2m
Flowers	Small, white, yellow or green flowers on drooping stems; April/May
Best position	Sun or partial shade, sheltered
Soil	Does best in fertile, well-drained but moisture-retentive soil

Currants are members of the same family as gooseberries (in fact the gooseberry has been crossed with a blackcurrant to produce the jostaberry (Ribes x culverwellii)) and so require the same sort of growing conditions.

There are three types of common currants, black, red and white, although the white currant is actually a variety of the redcurrant, Ribes rubrum, and not a separate species at all. All currants are ideal for use in pies, jams and puddings, especially the scrumptious dessert Summer Pudding, which makes the most of soft fruits and berries and is even better when served with a dollop of clotted cream!

One of the best blackcurrants is ‘Ben Connan’, an early-fruiting variety, which has really large berries and a lovely, rich flavour. A late cropper is Ben Sarek. Of the redcurrants, ‘Jonkheer van Tets’ is a good early variety, with ‘Rovada’ for a late crop. And of the few white currants available, ‘White Grape’ and ‘White Versailles’ are the best.

Although currants will bear fruit on older wood, the amount and quality will decline over the years. To ensure that new growth is available year-on-year, you should plant the bushes deeply so that new stems appear each year from below soil level. This way you can remove about a third of the oldest stems each year to ground level, and still have sufficient fruiting branches for the following season.

Spring/summer

Mespilus germanica (Medlar) (page 197) (Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	3 – 6m, depending on rootstock
Flowers	White, often touched with pink; May to June
Best position	Sun or partial shade, sheltered
Soil	Does best in fertile, well-drained but moisture-retentive soil, but can tolerate poorer soil

It is thought that the medlar originated in the eastern Mediterranean. What we do know is that the Romans cultivated them, and probably brought them to Britain.

The fruit is ready to pick in late October or early November when the stalk parts easily from the tree. At this stage they will still be hard so they must be allowed to soften before they can be eaten. This process is called ‘bletting’, and takes from two weeks to a month. The fruit is ready when the hard, cream-coloured flesh turns brown and mushy, but not rotten – it has been said that they are ‘ripened by their own corruption’. At this stage they can be eaten raw, but they can also be used in jellies, desserts and preserves.

A rather more descriptive name for medlar is ‘dog’s bottom’, a translation of the French cul de chien. Looking at the fruit from a particular angle, you can see why! (Chaucer, in The Reeve’s Tale, refers to them in an even more colourful way.)

Mespilus germanica (medlar) (opposite)

Cydonia oblonga (Quince) 

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Deciduous
Height	2.5–6m, depending on rootstock
Flowers	Pink or white; May or early June
Best position	Sun, sheltered
Soil	Fertile, well drained but moisture retentive

The origin of the quince is a little uncertain but it is thought to have made its way to Britain from southern Europe. Indeed, the first records of its cultivation here date from 1275. It was very popular from the 16th to 18th centuries, especially as a herbal medicine, treating a whole range of maladies from sore throats and diarrhoea to inflammation. In 1653 Nicholas Culpeper the herbalist also advocated its use for those who were a little hirsutely challenged: made up into a plaster with wax ‘it brings hair to them that are bald, and keeps it from falling off’. Mmm – I am a little sceptical about that one.

Be that as it may, quince was also widely used in the kitchen, its fragrant flesh being added to fruit pies, preserved as jam or simply stewed. It fell out of favour for some time, however, but recently it seems to be making somewhat of a comeback and I have even seen fresh pear-shaped fruits on sale in a local supermarket. Quince can be eaten raw but it is hard and gritty and is much better left to soften or, better still, cooked.

Throughout continental Europe you will find variations of quince paste or jam – Membrilo in Spain, Cotignac in France, Marmelada in Portugal (from which our word for orange ‘jam’ is derived).

There are 11 varieties of quince listed in one nursery catalogue – but do not confuse them with Chaenomeles japonica, also known as quince, but grown for purely ornamental purposes.

Rubus idaeus (Raspberry)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Height	Up to 1.5m
Flowers	White; May to July, depending on variety
Best position	Sun, sheltered
Soil	Fertile, moisture retentive, slightly acidic

The raspberry is a perennial plant which generally produces biennial canes. This means that in its first year the cane simply grows; in its second year it produces flowers (pollinated by bees, of course!) and subsequent fruit. At any one time during the growing season the plant will have new, non-fruiting canes and second-year fruiting canes on the same plant. (There are exceptions to the rule, such as the variety ‘Autumn Bliss’, which carries fruit on the current season’s canes.) After the fruit has been harvested, the cane should be cut out at the base.

There are numerous varieties of raspberry available. Some flower early and therefore produce an early crop (for example, ‘Glen Moy’), others flower and fruit later (such as ‘Glen Prosen’, followed by ‘Glen Magna’). Some, like ‘Allgold’, have yellow fruit.

Raspberries need a lot of food to produce good fruit, so they should be given a slow-release, general fertilizer in spring followed by a good mulch of well-rotted organic matter. They should also be watered well in dry periods.

Rubus fruticosus (Blackberry) (page 25)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Height	Up to 1.8m
Flowers	White or pale pink; May/June, but can have an additional flush later
Best position	Sun, sheltered
Soil	Fertile, on the light side

When I hear the name blackberry I always think of blackberry and apple pie made from the bramble berries that my sister and I used to pick in the hedgerows in autumn – and of all the scratches that we ended up with while picking them! I still pick from the hedgerow, for tradition’s sake more than anything else because I have a cultivated variety of blackberry in the garden which yields much larger fruits, and is thornless to boot! The one I grow is ‘Oregon Thornless’ which, as well as producing a good crop of berries, is also quite decorative with its large, white blossom which the bees love, and its parsley-shaped leaves. It is also ideal for a smaller garden because it is fairly compact – some would say weak – but that’s fine.

Pruning is the same as for raspberries, so the general rule of thumb is that when the cane has fruited it should be cut out at ground level. Any new shoots that have not yet borne fruit should be tied to supporting wires to stop them flopping over.

Fragaria x ananassa (Strawberry) (page 21)

(Rosaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Hardy
Height	45cm
Flowers	White; May to August
Best position	Sun, sheltered
Soil	Fertile, on the light side

Strawberries are perhaps one of the best-loved of all soft fruits. Their taste is redolent of summer – and where would Wimbledon be without strawberries and cream?

There are many varieties to choose from: some produce fruits as early as June, others as late as September, but probably the best-known is ‘Cambridge Favourite’. It crops reliably under a wide range of growing conditions so it is not surprising that it has been given the Royal Horticultural Society’s Award of Garden Merit. Another variety that has been awarded this honour is ‘Alice’, which crops later than ‘Cambridge Favourite’.

Although you do not actually prune strawberries, they do produce runners during the growing season which bear young plantlets. If you do not want to propagate new plants then these should be cut off to conserve the original plant’s energy. If, however, you do want to renew your stock then pop the young plantlets into pots, still attached to the ‘mother’ plant, until they have formed roots of their own. You can then cut the runner and grow them on.

I like to grow some alpine strawberries, too. These are a different species from the ‘garden’ ones and go under the name of Fragaria vesca. The fruits are much smaller but, to my mind, tastier, and they keep flowering and cropping throughout the season – lovely for me and the bees! If I have enough fruits I like to make some jam, replacing some of the sugar with honey – it really is the finest strawberry jam I have ever tasted.

Flowering times of selected edible fruits

Figure 15 Flowering times of selected edible fruits

Herbs

Spring

Laurus nobilis (Bay) (Lauraceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Perennial evergreen tree
Height	Up to 8m
Flowers	Pale yellow; March to May
Best position	Warm, sunny site. Protect from cold, dry winter winds
Soil	Fertile, well drained

Bay is said to have originally come from Asia Minor but it grows extensively in Mediterranean regions. The Greeks and Romans saw bay as a symbol of wisdom and glory, and the laurel wreaths that were given to victorious statesmen and athletes were in fact wreaths of bay. It is thought to have been introduced into Britain in 1562.

Bay is best grown in fertile, well-drained soil in a sheltered, sunny position. It may need protection in winter in the form of a layer or two of horticultural fleece. It also makes an excellent container plant which can be moved into an unheated greenhouse or conservatory for the winter months.

Bay is an excellent subject for topiary (which is why I have included a ‘lollypop’ one in the Herb Garden Planting Plan) but if left to its own devices it can eventually reach 8m high with a spread of 3m.

The flowers may be insignificant and easily overlooked but they produce a lot of nectar which during the early part of the season is a boon to bees.

As with many herbs the leaves of the bay can be used in the kitchen and form an essential ingredient in a bouquet garni. But beware: Laurus nobilis is the only member of the laurel family whose leaves are edible.

Rosmarinus officinalis (Rosemary)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Hardy evergreen shrub
Height	Up to 1m
Flowers	Pale blue; March to May
Best position	Sunny with shelter from cold winds
Soil	Well drained

Rosemary is native to scrubby, coastal regions of the Mediterranean – its Latin name, Rosmarinus, means ‘dew of the sea’. It also grows abundantly inland: during the 16th century, the French gardener Olivier de Serres noted that in Provence rosemary was so abundant that its woody stems were used as fuel in bread ovens. Rosemary is a symbol of fidelity and remembrance, and is beloved by bees – Sir Thomas More (1478–1535) wrote: ‘As for Rosemarine [sic], I let it run all over my garden walls, not only because my bees love it, but because ’tis the herb sacred to remembrance, and, therefore, to friendship.’

Being a Mediterranean herb it enjoys a warm, sunny position. Although it is hardy and can withstand temperatures down to –10°C and lower in a sheltered position, the one thing it really hates is wet feet. Give it well-drained, verging on poor, soil.

The famous Narbonne honey from the Aude département of south-western France is rosemary honey, traditionally harvested from the hives on Midsummer’s Day, 24 June. It is a very light-coloured honey, and infused with the scent of rosemary. It is also very expensive, even in France.

Spring/summer

Allium schoenoprasum (Chives) (Alliaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Hardy perennial
Height	30cm
Flowers	Purple/pink; May to September
Best position	Preferably sunny but dappled shade is tolerated
Soil	Rich, moist

This herb is a member of the onion family and can be found growing wild in Europe, Asia and North America. Although they have been gathered from the wild since antiquity it seems probable that they were not cultivated until the Middle Ages.

Chives like rich, moist soil which must not be allowed to dry out during the growing season. They love a warm, sunny position, but will tolerate dappled shade. They can also be grown in a container, but should be divided in the autumn if the pot gets overcrowded.

The pink ‘drumstick’ flowers, beloved by bees, are edible, and look – and taste – good divided into florets in a summer salad.

Summer

Foeniculum vulgare (Fennel) (Apiaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Hardy perennial (but often grown as an annual)
Height	Up to 2m
Flowers	Yellow; June to August
Best position	Sun
Soil	Fertile, moist but well drained

From a cook’s point of view the main reason for growing fennel is for its leaves. This is true of Foeniculum vulgare but there is another fennel, Foeniculum vulgare var. dulce (Florence fennel) which is primarily grown for its bulbous root.

From a bee’s point of view it is the flowers that are of interest, although you will find that it is often overrun with more short-tongued insects seeking out its liquorice-flavoured nectar and bees will look elsewhere. If you do let it flower be sure not to grow it near Anethum graveolens (dill) as they will hybridize and their offspring are of no value either as herbs or ornamentals.

Folklore has it that if you hang a bunch of fennel above your door on Midsummer’s Eve then you will be protected from enchantment and witches.

Fennel likes moist, fertile soil and a sunny position. It looks magnificent if grown in a herbaceous border, where its feathery leaves make a superb foil for more robust specimens.

Lavandula (Lavender) (page 88)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Hardy evergreen shrub
Height	Up to 90cm, depending on type
Flowers	Purple; June to August
Best position	Sunny
Soil	Well drained

Lavender is native to dry, rocky regions of the Mediterranean. Its name comes from the Latin lavare, meaning ‘to wash’, and Romans used lavender to scent their bath water. It is thought that it was indeed the Romans who brought lavender to our shores, although the first reference to it appears in 1265 when it is recorded in a manuscript of that date. Although there are many species of lavender the hardiest are Lavandula angustifolia and Lavandula x intermedia, which can withstand temperatures down to –10°C and lower provided they are not exposed to cold winds and they do not have wet feet.

Bees love lavender. Nectar is produced freely and is readily accessible by all bees since the corolla tube of the flower is, on average, 6mm deep – well within the reach of even honeybees. Where bees feed exclusively on lavender the honey will be quite dark and when it granulates it has a very fine grain, almost as smooth as butter. Lavender used to be grown in England on quite a large scale to supply perfume houses with oil, but the number of lavender fields declined as synthetic essences took over. Over recent years, however, there has been a renewed interest in natural oils and lavender fields can now be found in areas such as Cheshire, the Cotswolds, Kent, Norfolk and Yorkshire. Perhaps it will not be long before there is English lavender honey for sale too.

Melissa officinalis (Lemon balm)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Hardy perennial
Height	30cm
Flowers	Cream; June to August
Best position	Preferably sunny but dappled shade is tolerated
Soil	Moisture retentive – but not waterlogged

Lemon balm is native to southern Europe and has been cultivated for over two thousand years: it was brought to Britain by the Romans. Melissa is the Greek word for honeybee and the herb has long been associated with bee-keeping. Not only is it a rich source of nectar, but Virgil (70–19 BC) notes that balm induces swarming, and in the 16th century the herbalist John Gerard wrote that: ‘The hives of bees being rubbed with the leaves of balm causeth the bees to keep together and causeth others to come with them. When they are strayed away, they do find their way home by it.’

Lemon balm is not as fussy as some herbs and will grow in both sun and dappled shade. It prefers moisture-retentive soil but will not tolerate permanently wet feet.

Origanum vulgare (Wild marjoram or oregano) (page 25)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Hardy perennial
Height	Up to 45cm
Flowers	Pale mauve; June to August
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Well drained

There are several species of Origanum, which often causes confusion since the common name is sometimes oregano and sometimes marjoram. The ‘wild’ one is Origanum vulgare but you may also find Origanum marjorana (sweet marjoram), which is less hardy and has white flowers, and Origanum onites (pot marjoram), which has pink/purple flowers. All species of Origanum appear to originate from the Mediterranean but nowadays many species can be found growing wild in various places, including the chalk downs of Britain. Like most herbs, they all need a sunny site with well-drained soil.

Origanum vulgare is one of the best herbs to grow for bees. The sugar content of the nectar is one of the highest among all plants and the resulting honey is of top quality.

Mentha spicata (Garden mint) (page 68)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Hardy perennial
Height	Up to 60cm
Flowers	Purple/mauve; June to August
Best position	Sunny or light shade
Soil	Fertile, moist

There are numerous species and varieties of mint but the most common garden mint to be found in Britain is spearmint (Mentha spicata), although the named variety Mentha spicata ‘Tashkent’ has the best flavour. It is native to Mediterranean regions and was probably introduced to Britain by the Romans. In classical times mint was rubbed over tables before a banquet so that, as Pliny noted, the scent would ‘stir up … a greedy desire for meat’.

Another mint which you will find readily available in garden centres, that is every bit as good as Mentha spicata, is Mentha suaveolens (apple mint). This too is hardy but it has larger, hairier, softer green leaves and can grow up to 20cm taller.

All types of mint are invasive, so grow it either in a container or in a bed of its own. Although it prefers a sunny site it will grow in light shade as long as it has fairly fertile, moist soil.

Thymus vulgaris (Common or garden thyme)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Hardy, evergreen perennial
Height	Up to 45cm
Flowers	Pale pink; June to August
Best position	Warm and sunny, sheltered
Soil	Well drained

According to the Royal Horticultural Society there are about 350 species of thyme, including some which grow wild in Britain. Three that are widely grown are garden or common thyme (Thymus vulgaris), lemon thyme (Thymus x citriodorus) and broad-leaved thyme (Thymus pulegioides). They are native to rocky sites and dry, usually chalky, grasslands of Europe, western Asia and North Africa.

Thyme likes a warm, sunny site with well-drained soil and it hates wet feet, particularly during the winter.

Lemon thyme adds a subtle hint of citrus in many dishes and I have even found a recipe for honey and lemon thyme ice cream.

Satureja montana, Satureja hortensis (Winter savory, summer savory)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Hardy, semi-evergreen perennial; annual
Height	30cm
Flowers	White with pink-mauve tinge; June to August
Best position	Full sun
Soil	Poor, well drained

There are basically two types of savory – Satureja montana, winter savory, and Satureja hortensis, summer savory. Both bear small white flowers during the summer and both are attractive to bees. The difference between them is that the winter savory is a perennial and can be kept over winter, whereas summer savory is an annual and must be resown each year. For this reason, I tend to grow only the winter savory.

Savory comes from the Mediterranean regions where it grows in stony or sandy fields or along the roadside, which gives a foolproof pointer to the sort of conditions it likes.

Savory is best grown in full sun and winter savory, being a semi-evergreen perennial, will hold a good deal of foliage over the winter.

Summer/autumn

Hyssopus officinalis (Hyssop) (page 67) (Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Hardy, semi-evergreen perennial
Height	80cm
Flowers	Blue, pink or white, depending on variety; June to September
Best position	Sunny
Soil	Well drained

Hyssop is native to southern Europe, the Near East and southern Russia. Its use goes back to antiquity when it was used more as a medicinal or purifying herb than a culinary one. Hyssop could always be found in monastery gardens where it was grown as a ‘cure-all’ for diverse complaints from acne to worms. Indeed, Gerard, in his herbal of 1597, left hyssop ‘altogether without description, as being a plant so well knowne that it needeth none’. The same is not true today since it figures only rarely in modern recipes.

Hyssop is a sun worshipper and must have well-drained soil. It makes an ideal low hedge: trim back the flowers (you can get blue, pink or white flowered varieties) in autumn to keep them in shape. It also makes a perfect container plant.

Salvia officinalis (Sage)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Hardy, evergreen perennial
Height	Up to 60cm
Flowers	Mauve-blue; June to September
Best position	Warm and sunny
Soil	Well drained – not acid

The genus Salvia contains a vast number of species (more than 700) including the tender Salvia splendens often used as summer bedding. We are concerned with the herb sage, which has always been highly prized, not only in the kitchen but also as a medicine – its name is testament to this: the Genus name ‘Salvia’ is said to be derived from the Latin salvere, meaning to save or heal, and the species name ‘officinalis’ comes from the Latin word opificina, meaning a herb store or pharmacy.

An Arabic proverb asks: ‘How can a man die who has sage in his garden?’ And the Chinese valued sage so highly as a medicinal herb that in the heyday of the tea trade with the Dutch, when tea commanded a premium price, one pound (weight) of dried sage leaves would be traded for three pounds of tea.

Salvia officinalis (known as common, garden or broad-leaved sage) is the best-known sage for culinary use, with pale grey-green, velvety leaves. However, there are other varieties, notably Gold Sage (Salvia officinalis ‘Icterina’) or Purple Sage (Salvia officinalis ‘Purpurascens’ group) with colourful leaves, which are just as good for bees as the common sage. Sage requires a sunny position with well-drained soil. Although it is a Mediterranean plant, it will survive British winters without protection, as long as its feet are not wet.

Flowering times of selected herbs

Figure 16 Flowering times of selected herbs

Wild flowers

Spring/summer

Tussilago farfara (Coltsfoot) (Asteraceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Perennial
Height	Up to 10cm
Flowers	Yellow; February to April

Coltsfoot is one of the first wild species to flower in the spring, appearing at about the same time as crocuses. Some shoots develop flowers, the seeds of which are topped with a tuft of silky ‘hairs’ which are often used by goldfinches to line their nests. Other shoots develop leaves which appear after the flower stems have died down in May. Coltsfoot can be invasive, but it is such a good early bee plant that it is worth putting up with its rampant nature.

Lamium purpureum/L. album (Red/white dead nettle) (page 211)

(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Annual
Height	Up to 45cm
Flowers	Dark pink-purple/white; February/March to October, sometimes later

This is not a true nettle but its leaves are enough like one to make people wary. Although there are many attractive cultivated varieties which deserve a place in the garden, the ‘original’ version is thought of as a pernicious weed.

Taraxacum officinale (Dandelion)

(Asteraceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Perennial
Height	5–30cm
Flowers	Yellow; March to October

Lamium album (white deadnettle)

This yellow, daisy-like flower takes its common name, dandelion, from the French dents de lion, meaning lion’s teeth, which refers to the shape of the leaf. Despite being reviled as a weed by gardeners it is one of the best ‘bee plants’, giving up both pollen and nectar. It can be kept in check by constant deadheading.

Ornithogalum pyrenaicum (Bath asparagus)

(Liliaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Bulb
Height	Up to 80cm
Flowers	Greenish-white flowers on spikes; April to June

The common name of this plant gives us a clue to where it is naturally found, and also to its use. It has a limited distribution in Britain, being found mostly in the Avon valley around Bath, although it is widespread throughout Europe. One reason that has been put forward for its localized occurrence is that the Romans brought it with them as a food crop when they occupied areas in and around Bath. It can be eaten like asparagus before the flower spikes open. Although it is scarce in the wild, bulbs can be bought from reputable suppliers.

Leucanthemum vulgare (Ox-eye daisy, moon daisy) (page 37)

(Asteraceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of	plant Perennial
Height	Up to 60cm
Flowers	White, daisy flowers; May to September

If you view this lovely plant in the half-light of a summer’s evening you can understand why one of its common names is moon daisy: the blooms really shine out like miniature moons. It can often be found on edges of fields and verges, especially where ground has been newly sown with conservation flora after civil engineering works and the like.

The garden perennial daisy, or Shasta daisy, Leucanthemum x superbum, is a related hybrid.

Borago officinalis (Borage or starflower) (page 24) 

(Boraginaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Annual
Height	30–60cm
Flowers	Blue; May to September

Originally a Mediterranean plant, borage can now be found naturalized across northern Europe. It is often found in the herb garden (the young leaves and flowers can be eaten and are traditionally part of a refreshing Pimm’s) and it is grown commercially for its oil. Its habit is a little unruly, however, and so it is ideal for a more relaxed or ‘wild’ planting scheme. Bees adore it.

Trifolium repens (White clover) (page 25)

(Fabaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Perennial
Height	10cm
Flowers	White (sometimes with a tinge of pink); May to October

The Latin name tells us a lot about this plant: trifolium means it has three leaves, and repens means creeping. Like many other wild flowers it does not find favour with the gardener, although it is often encouraged by farmers as it makes good grazing material. By far its greatest fan is the bee, however.

Summer

Salvia pratensis (Meadow clary)
(Lamiaceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Perennial
Height	50–80cm
Flowers	Violet blue; June, July

The name clary is thought to be an altered form of ‘clear eye’ from the time when apothecaries would soak the seeds in water to produce an eye bath to alleviate infections. As with other members of the sage family the flowers are a good source of nectar for bees. This wild Salvia would look good in any herbaceous border, so do not just use it in the ‘wild’ garden.

Onobrychis viciifolia (Sainfoin)

(Fabaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Perennial
Height	30–60cm
Flowers	Pink; June to August

Since its introduction to Britain in the 1650s, sainfoin, a member of the pea family, has been an important agricultural crop – it is cut for hay and the regrowth is used as grazing. It has also escaped into the wild and is recognized in many texts as a wild flower. Whatever its status it is beloved by bees – a good enough reason to grow it.

Daucus carota (Wild carrot)

(Apiaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Biennial
Height	30–60cm
Flowers	One purple or dark red flower at the centre of a mass of white umbels; June to August

Unlike the carrots we grow in the kitchen garden, the wild carrot has a thick, white, woody taproot but this does not matter because in the wild garden we are growing it for its flowers, which are beloved by bees. It has a common country name of ‘bird’s nest’ because as the head of seed develops it becomes concave, giving the whole structure a distinctive ‘nest’ appearance.

Phacelia tanacetifolia (page 101)

(Hydrophyllaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Annual
Height	Up to 1m
Flowers	Violet blue; June to August

Although not strictly a wild flower, it is often found in the wild as an escapee from field margins that have been set aside for beneficial insects or from game cover crops. It is often used as a green manure to enrich the soil, but in this case it is rarely allowed to flower since at this stage the stems become woody. The nectar-rich flowers open in sequence, giving a long flowering period – ideal for bees.

Summer/autumn

Melilotus officinalis (Melilot or sweet clover) (page 103) (Fabaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Biennial
Height	Up to 1.2m
Flowers	Yellow; June to September

Although one of its common names is sweet clover, it does not belong to the clover family at all: it is a member of the pea family and looks more like a vetch. It was once commonly grown as a fodder crop and it is said that Gruyère cheese partly owes its flavour to melilot, which grows freely in the Gruyère valley in Switzerland. When it is dried it smells like newly mown hay.

Reseda lutea (Wild mignonette)

(Resedaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Biennial/short-lived perennial
Height	75cm
Flowers	Pale yellow; June to September

Wild mignonette is related to weld (Reseda luteola), which has been used for millennia as a dye plant, and common mignonette (Reseda odorata), which is grown for its sweet scent. Arguably, wild mignonette’s only claim to fame is that it is loved by bees. Reason enough to grow it.

Echium vulgare (Viper’s bugloss) 

(Boraginaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Biennial
Height	30–90cm
Flowers	Blue-purple with pinkish buds; June to September/October

Do not be put off by its common name! The ‘viper’ part comes from the fact that 17th-century herbalists thought the speckled stems resembled snake’s skin, and ‘bugloss’ comes from the Greek for ‘ox tongue’, which is what the leaves look like. It is a striking plant which can grow up to a metre and would not look out of place in the herbaceous border.

Geranium pratense (Meadow cranesbill or meadow geranium

(Geraniaceae)
Good for	Nectar
Type of plant	Perennial
Height	Up to 1m
Flowers	Violet blue, sometimes white; June to September/October

The ‘cranesbill’ part of the name comes from the fact that after pollination the seed pods look like the bill of a crane. It really is a stunning plant and has given rise to many cultivated varieties, but the original would grace any herbaceous border.

Papaver rhoeas (Common, field or corn poppy) (page 101)

(Papaveraceae)
Good for	Pollen
Type of plant	Annual
Height	Up to 60cm
Flowers	Red; June to October

The poppy has long been held as symbol of new life, particularly in agrarian cultures, because of the seed’s ability to lie dormant in the earth for many years until the soil is once again cultivated. It was once a common sight in cornfields in Britain, but advances in herbicide technology have all but eradicated it from the crops. Poppies are slowly making a comeback, however, due to farming conservation and stewardship schemes.

In spite of their bright colour they are a useful source of pollen for our buzzy friends – they can detect the pollen because the centre of the flower is well within their visual spectrum. Although each flower only lasts one day, they are produced in large numbers.

Knautia arvensis (Field scabious)

(Dipsacaceae)
Good for	Nectar and pollen
Type of plant	Perennial
Height	Up to 1m
Flowers	Lilac blue; July to September

The flowers of this lovely plant look like miniature pincushions and are a beacon for bees. Its ‘cousin’, Knautia macedonica, with its dark crimson flowers, frequently finds its way into the cultivated garden, but to my mind the subtle colour of Knautia arvensis is every bit as good.

Flowering times of selected wild flowers

Figure 17 Flowering times of selected wild flowers