A
Adidas, 8, 36, 48, 116, 184, 196
African Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA), 59–61, 143, 147
Aga Khan Fund for Economic Development (AKFED), 143–44
Aid for Trade (AfT), 89, 144–45, 154
Alliance for Bangladesh Worker Safety, 153, 170–73, 177
American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA), 77, 86, 95, 123
American Apparel Manufacturers Association (AAMA), 92–96
apparel and textile factories
quality inspections in, 99, 105
standard industry practices for, 100
work conditions in, 28, 73, 101
See also manufacturing facilities
apparel and textile industry, 15–16, 30, 77, 92–93, 141
labor practices in, 67, 75, 79, 85, 88, 90–91, 96
offshore sourcing of, 2, 31, 53, 70, 72, 76
social and environmental impacts of, 5, 67, 118, 160, 162
supply chains for, 52, 89, 206
Apparel Industry Partnership (AIP), 86, 90–94, 96
auditing firms, 67, 76, 91, 97–99, 101, 105, 110
auditing, of apparel industry
factory audits, 8, 65, 86, 96–97, 99, 101, 107, 109, 127–28
social compliance audits, 107, 174, 179–80
See also auditing firms; labor audits; monitoring, of apparel industry
Bangladesh Accord on Fire and Building Safety, 92, 153, 169–71, 173, 177, 198
Better Cotton Initiative, 8, 113–14, 116–21, 138
Business for Social Responsibility (BSR), 6, 68, 92, 134, 137, 171
Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI), 6, 86, 100
C
C9 by Champion brand, 50, 53–55, 57–58, 60–62, 66
chain of custody, in cotton production, 117, 129
Champion Athletics brand, 1, 34, 50, 53, 88
chemical management, and environment, 102, 116, 138
See also hazardous chemicals
child labor, in apparel industry, 9, 29, 72, 76, 80, 84, 88, 179
conditions of, 28, 76, 81, 85, 124
exploitation of, 81, 83, 85, 101, 121–22
See also forced labor
Clinton, President Bill, 83, 85, 88, 90–91, 93–94
codes of conduct, 6, 8, 83, 85, 91–92, 95, 100, 104, 125–26, 128, 206
Company Pledge Against Child and Adult Forced Labor in Uzbek Cotton, 123, 125–26, 128
Consolidated Foods Corporation of Chicago, 40–43
Corporacion Supermercados Unidos (CSU), 33–34
corporate social responsibility (CSR), 6, 8, 86, 107, 123, 164, 179
practices in apparel industry, 120, 125, 146, 174, 180, 184, 200
See also monitoring, of apparel industry
cultivation of, 3, 22, 114, 121
See also organic cotton
cotton origin declaration, 127
D
denim manufacturing, 203
Duties, import, 43–44, 59, 62, 82, 147, 149, 153
environment, in manufacturing degradation of, 125, 140, 199, 206
impacts on, 75, 114, 116, 118, 121, 128, 130, 158, 160, 162, 178
laws for, 6–7, 96, 100, 104, 154, 197
practices affecting, 8, 86, 103, 138, 179
sustainability of, 16, 137, 175, 183–84, 199
See also apparel and textile industry; manufacturing facilities
Ethical Trade Initiative (ETI), 6, 86, 100, 170
F
Factory Acts, 28
Fair Labor Association (FLA), 6, 85–86, 88, 92–93, 96–97, 100
Fair Wear Foundation, 100, 175, 181
fashion education, 158–60, 162–66
Fashion Industry Forum, 89–90, 94
Fashion Takes Action (FTA), 199–200
fertilizers, reduction of, 119
Firfirey, Yumnaa, 188
Fischbacher, Alastair, 133, 136
Fisher, Eileen, 181
forced labor, 72, 101, 109, 121–22, 124, 126, 128, 185
See also laborers, in apparel industry; migrant workers
G
Gap, The, 63, 78, 82, 96, 112, 116, 123
Gifford, Kathie Lee, 76, 83–84, 89, 92–93
greenhouse gases, reduction of, 136, 138
H
H&M stores, 52, 58, 66, 116, 137–40, 178, 184, 194
Hanes Corporation, 35–37, 39–45, 50–53, 55
Hanes brand, 1–2, 34, 37–38, 88
Hanes, James Gordon, Jr., 39
Hanes, Pleasant Henderson, 38–39
hazardous chemicals, and fabric production, 9, 185, 202, 205
See also chemical management
Hilderbrand, Kathryn, 189
human rights, in apparel industry, 6, 76
protections for, 72, 79, 82, 88, 104, 154
transparency in, 107, 109, 128
human trafficking, 67–68, 109, 180
I
Industrial Revolution, 13, 25, 29, 31, 151, 186
Institute for Global Labour and Human Rights, 68–69, 71
International Labor Organization (ILO), 68, 72–73, 117, 123, 137, 154–55
Better Work program, 61, 69, 71, 154, 170
Convention 138 on Minimum Age, 79
International Program for the Elimination of Child Labor (IPEC), 89
J
Joe Fresh label, 106, 114, 124, 146, 167
Jordan, apparel industry in, 61–62, 66–67, 146–49
foreign workers in, 63–65, 110
K
L
labor audits, 62, 65–67, 71, 75, 78–79, 96–100, 102, 157
See also auditing, of apparel industry
laborers, in apparel industry
abuses of, 67, 70, 73, 85, 124
health and safety of, 28, 72, 88, 102, 104, 154, 179
offshore/outsourcing of, 36, 82–83
rights of, 6, 76, 85, 107, 154
wages and working hours of, 102, 138
Lafrenz, Lu Ann, 158–59, 161, 163
Levi Strauss, 82–83, 112, 162, 196
Li & Fung trading firm, 34, 53–55, 57, 62–63, 66
M
manufacturing facilities, 118, 204
as ethical/sustainable, 75, 189, 195, 201
as offshore/outsourced, 4, 128
practices in, 3–4, 9–10, 36–37, 66, 81, 94, 128, 201
sites of, 1, 42, 58, 62, 148, 193–94
See also apparel and textile factories
Maquila Solidarity Network (MSN), 87, 167, 169, 171, 200
margins, on apparel, 55–57, 59
See also profits, on apparel
migrant workers, 72, 109, 179, 185
See also foreign laborers
monitoring, of apparel industry, 87, 91–92, 96, 98–99, 118, 155
See also auditing, of apparel industry
N
National Consumers League (NCL), 90, 92
National Labor Committee (NLC), 68, 70, 82–84, 92
Nike, 8, 52, 90–92, 96, 112, 118, 196
North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA), 9, 15, 35, 37, 42, 44, 60, 78, 83, 144–45
O
environmental impact of, 116
P
Pacific Resources Export Limited (PREL), 14–15, 34, 37, 54, 57, 77–79
pesticides, reduction of, 119
Peterloo Massacre (St. Peter’s Field rally), 27–28
petroleum-based plastic polymers and environmental degradation, 141
pollution. See chemical management; hazardous chemicals; water pollution
private label brands
offshore manufacturing of, 94
tax-free repatriation of, 43
Q
Qualifying Industrial Zones (QIZ), 60, 62–63, 65, 69
R
Rana Plaza factory collapse, 7, 101, 106, 144, 150, 152–53, 167, 169, 195, 200, 205–6
Reich, Robert B., 84, 88–89, 93
Responsible Sourcing Network, 8, 123–27, 132, 179
Rinaldi, Francesca Romana, 164–65
S
Sara Lee Branded Apparel, 34, 51, 143
Sara Lee Corporation, 1–2, 34–36, 44, 50, 54, 94
Project 2000 plan, 94
sexual abuse, of workers, 67, 69, 71–72
See also laborers, in apparel industry
Shareholder Association for Research and Education (SHARE), 167–69
shipping industry, global, 133–36, 139
slow-fashion movement, 166
Social Accountability International (SAI), 6, 92, 184
SA8000 social practices certification standard, 86, 100, 183
Spectrum factory collapse, 169
Supplier Ethical Data Exchange (SEDEX), 6, 86, 100, 179–80
supply chains, 50–51, 77, 97, 131
accountability of, 87, 107, 109
as sustainable, 174
as transparent, 8, 76, 87, 113, 118, 124, 129, 132, 134
Sustainable Shipping Initiative (SSI), 133–36, 139
Sustainable Trade Initiative, 113–14, 116, 118–19
sweatshops, 76–77, 84–85, 88–90, 93–94, 159
T
Tabi International, 58, 111–13
Target stores, 37, 44, 53–55, 57, 68, 112
textile dye mill and wastewater dumping, 112
See also wastewater
textile manufacturing.
See manufacturing facilities
textile wet processing sector, 138, 178
Trans-Pacific Partnership trade agreement, 44, 147
U
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
Smart Way program, 140
U.S.-Israel Free Trade Agreement, 60
V
W
Wal-Mart stores and foreign-made goods, 9, 14, 54, 82, 84
inspection programs of, 96, 105
International Merchandising Division, 14
zero-tolerance policies of, 79, 82–83
wastewater
workers, in apparel industry.
See laborers, in apparel industry
International Finance Corporation (IFC), 34, 69
World Trade Organization (WTO), 83, 146
World Wildlife Fund (WWF), 117, 131, 133
Worldwide Responsible Accredited Production (WRAP) (formerly Responsible Apparel Production Program (RAPP), 6, 67, 86, 88, 94–97, 100