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103. USLEAP (Aug 2008), “Hanes signs contract: Workers win big victory in the Dominican Republic.” http://www.usleap.org/hanes-signs-contract-workers-win-big-victory-dominican-republic
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106. United States Department of Labor (April 1997), Apparel Industry Partnership Agreement. http://training.itcilo.it/actrav_cdrom1/english/global/guide/apparell.htm
107. Initial participating brands and labor/civil society groups were: Liz Claiborne, Phillips-Van Heusen, Warnaco, L.L. Bean, Patagonia, Nike, Nicole Miller, Tweeds, Karen Kane, Kathie Lee Gifford, UNITE, the AFL-CIO’s Retail, Wholesale, and Department Store Union, the National Consumers League, Lawyers Committee for Human Rights and the Interfaith Center on Corporate Responsibility. A short while later they would be joined by Reebok, consulting group Business for Social Responsibility and two additional NGOs: the International Labor Rights Fund and the Robert F. Kennedy Memorial Center for Human Rights.
108. Benjamin, Medea (April 1997), “No Sweat for Companies to Agree,” Los Angeles Times. http://articles.latimes.com/1997–04–17/local/me-49596_1_minimum-wage
109. Vietnam Labor Watch (March 1997), “Nike Labor Practices in Vietnam.” http://www.saigon.com/nike/reports/report1.html
110. President Bill Clinton’s White House statement re: Apparel Industry Partnership Agreement (April 1997). http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/WCPD-1997–04–21/html/WCPD-1997–04–21-Pg518–2.htm
111. Greenhouse, Steve (Nov 1997), “A deep split on policing of sweatshops,” The New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/1997/11/21/us/a-deep-split-on-policing-of-sweatshops.html
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113. Staff writer (June 7, 1996), “AAMA in deal with database service for tracking contractors’ compliance,” Women’s Wear Daily (WWD).
114. US House of Representatives (1999), “The role of business in the competitive garment industry: Hearing before the Subcommittee on Oversight and Investigations of the Committee on Education and the Workforce, House of Representatives,” 105th Congress, second session. Hearing held in Washington, DC September 25, 1998. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/007606975
115. Ramey, Joanna (28 Sept 1998), “AAMA tells Capitol Hill it will launch its own anti-sweatshop fight,” Women’s Wear Daily (WWD).
116. Vickery, Tim (April 2001), “Who’s watching the shop floor?” Christian Science Monitor. http://www.csmonitor.com/2001/0430/p11s1.html
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118. Developed by the German sociologist Robert Michels in his 1911 book, Political Parties, the iron law of oligarchy is a political theory that posits that all organizations, even those which appear democratic in nature, sooner or later come to be dominated by smaller groups of elites from within.
119. Hyland, James. (1995), Democratic Theory: The Philosophical Foundations, Manchester University Press n.d., p. 247.
120. Q1 2015 China salaries survey. http://www.gemini.com.hk/assets/doc/survey_china.pdf
121. Greenhouse, Steve and Clifford Stephanie (Sept 2013), “Fast and flawed inspections of factories abroad.” http://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/02/business/global/superficial-visits-and-trickery-undermine-foreign-factory-inspections.html?pagewanted=5&_r=2
122. Intertek press release (July 2008), “Wal-Mart global procurement enhances quality control in China.” http://www.intertek.com/news/2008/07–11-wal-mart/
124. Euromonitor International (March 2014), “Key highlights from Euro monitor’s Apparel and Footwear Research 2014.” http://go.euromonitor.com/rs/euromonitorinternational/images/key-highlights-apparel-footwear-2014.pdf
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127. He Huifeng (June 20, 2006), “HK-owned textiles factory in delta faces fines over pollution,” South China Morning Post. http://www.scmp.com/article/553479/hk-owned-textile-factory-delta-faces-fines-over-pollution
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129. For an in-depth understanding of the Better Cotton Initiative, see www.bettercotton.org
130. Natural Resources Defense Council, “Fiber selection: Understanding the impact of different fibers.” http://www.nrdc.org/international/cleanbydesign/files/CBD-Fiber-Selection-FS.pdf
131. The Guardian, H&M Zone Partner Zone, “Organic cotton demand still on the rise.” http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/hm-partner-zone/sustainable-cotton-on-the-rise
132. Better Cotton Initiative 2013 Harvest Report. http://bettercotton.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/BCI-Harvest-Report-2013_compressed2.pdf
133. US Department of Labor, “List of goods produced by child or forced labor.” http://www.dol.gov/ilab/reports/child-labor/list-of-goods/
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135. Uzbek-German Forum for Human Rights “Preliminary report on forced labor during Uzbekistan’s 2014 cotton harvest.” http://uzbekgermanforum.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Forced-Labor-During-Uzbekistans-2014-Cotton-Harvest.pdf
136. BBC Newsnight (Oct 2007), “Child labour and the High Street.” http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/newsnight/7068096.stm
137. US/Canadian retail industry letter to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers Association re: Uzbekistan cotton. http://www.retailcouncil.org/sites/default/files/advocacy/joint-association-letter-to-BGMEA-concerning-Uzbek-Cotton-MOU.pdf
138. Aulakh, Raveena (Oct 2013), “In Uzbekistan slave labour used to harvest cotton,” Toronto Star. http://www.thestar.com/news/world/clothesonyourback/2013/10/25/in_uzbekistan_slave_labour_used_to_harvest_cotton.html
139. Responsible Sourcing Network, “Cotton Sourcing Survey of Corporate Practices.” http://www.sourcingnetwork.org/storage/cotton-publications/cottonsourcingsnapshot-editedforprint.pdf
140. Cotton Campaign, companies active in Uzbekistan. http://www.cottoncampaign.org/frequently-asked-questions/
141. Cornell University Law School, “Corporations as legal personages.” http://www.law.cornell.edu/wex/corporations
142. World Wildlife Fund, “Common impacts of the shipping industry.” http://www.wwf.org.au/our_work/saving_the_natural_world/oceans_and_marine/marine_threats/commercial_shipping/impacts/
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144. Sustainable Shipping Initiative, “Our vision for a sustainable shipping industry.” http://ssi2040.org/what-we-do/vision-2040/
145. H&M 2014 Full Year Financial Report. http://about.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/cision/2015/01/1460341_en.pdf
146. Shen, Bin (2014), Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain: Lessons from H&M, Shanghai: Donghua University.
147. Lewis, Barbara, David Ljunggren and Jeffrey Jones (May 2010), “Canada’s oil sand battle with Europe.” http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/05/10/us-oil-sands-idUSBRE8490OL20120510
148. O Ecotextiles (Oct 2014), “Climate change and the textile industry.” https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/tag/polyester/
149. Chevron El Segundo Refinery, “What is in a barrel of oil?” http://elsegundo.chevron.com/home/abouttherefinery/whatwedo/what_is_in_a_barrel_of_oil.aspx
150. O Ecotextiles (Feb 2013), “Antimony in fabrics.” https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/tag/polyester/
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151. Text of speech by His Highness The Aga Khan (Dec 2003). http://www.akdn.org/speech/596/Opening-of-Alltex-EPZ-Limited-at-Athi-River
152. Recommendations of the WTO Task Force on Aid for Trade [WT/AFT/1], July 27, 2006.
153. Razzaue, Abdur and Abu Eusuf (2007), “Trade, development and poverty linkage: A case study of ready made garment industry in Bangladesh.” http://legacy.intracen.org/dbms/tirs/TIR_Publication_EK.Asp?DS=MONOGRAPHS&TY=F&CD=837&ID=39176
154. IDS Policy Briefing (March 2009), “Changing the Aid for Trade debate towards content.” http://www.ids.ac.uk/files/dmfile/InFocus61.pdf
155. Transparency International Corruption Rankings (2014). http://www.transparency.org/cpi2014/results
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