Notes

CHAPTER 1

1. Ames, Glenn J. (2008), The Globe Encompassed: The Age of European Discovery, 1500–1700, Pearson, pp. 102–103.

2. Schnee, Heinrich (1908), Unsere Kolonien, Quelle & Meyer, pp. 37 and 54.

3. Van Boven, M. W. (2002), Towards A New Age of Partnership (TANAP): An Ambitious World Heritage Project, UNESCO Memory of the World– reg. form VOC Archives Appendix 2, p.14.

4. Ricklefs, M. C. (1991), A History of Modern Indonesia since c. 1300, 2nd edition, London: MacMillan, p. 110.

5. For the text of the charter granted by Queen Elizabeth I to the Honourable East India Company see http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Charter_Granted_by_Queen_Elizabeth_to_the_East_India_Company

6. Jourdain, J. (1905), The Journal of John Jourdain: 1608–1617, Describing His Experiences in Arabia, India, and the Malay Archipelago, Cambridge: Hakluyt Society.

7. Sainsbury, W. Noel, ed. (1878), Calendar of State Papers Colonial, East Indies, China and Japan 1622/1624, Vol 4, London.

8. Shorto, R. (2004), The Island at the Center of the World, Doubleday.

9. Schmidt, B. (2001), Innocence Abroad: The Dutch Imagination and the New World, 1570–1670, Cambridge Press.

10. Bates Brown, Harry and Jacob Osborn Ware (1958), Cotton, New York: McGraw-Hill.

11. Volti, Rudi (1999), “Cotton,” The Facts on File Encyclopedia of Science, Technology, and Society.

12. Tripathi, Rama Shankar (2003), History of Ancient India, New Delhi: Motilal Banarsidass Publishers Pvt. Ltd.

13. Backer, Patricia, “Technology in the Middle Ages,” History of Technology. Accessed June 12, 2011.

14. Berg, Maxine (2013), “Useful knowledge, ‘industrial enlightenment,’ and the place of India,” Journal of Global History, Vol. 8 issue 1, pp. 117–141.

15. Bell, Adrian R., Chris Brooks, and Paul Dryburgh (2007), The English Wool Market, c. 1230–1327, Cambridge Press.

16. Douglas, David Charles and Harry Rothwell (1995), English Historical Documents, 1189–1327, Psychology Press.

17. Cohn, Samuel K. (2002), “The Black Death: End of a paradigm” American Historical Review, Vol. 107 issue 3, pp. 703–737.

18. Dickerson, Oliver Morton (1951), The Navigation Acts and the American Revolution, University of Pennsylvania.

19. Epstein, Stephan R., “Craft guilds, apprenticeship, and technological change in preindustrial Europe,” Journal of Economic History, Sept 1998.

20. Behrendt, Stephen D., David Richardson, and David Eltis (1999), Records for 27,233 Voyages That Set Out to Obtain Slaves for the Americas, W. E. B. Du Bois Institute for African and African-American Research, Harvard.

21. Morgan, Kenneth (2000), Slavery, Atlantic Trade and the British Economy, 1660–1800, Cambridge University Press.

22. Bayly, C. A. (1988), “Indian society and the making of the British Empire,” in The New Cambridge History of India.

23. Chaudhuri, K. N. (1978), The Trading World of Asia and the English East India Company 1600–1760, Cambridge.

24. Espinasse, Francis (1874), Lancashire Worthie, London: Simpkin, Marshall & Co., p. 296.

25. Jones, Sam (Aug 27, 2013), “Follow the money: Investigators trace forgotten story of Britain’s slave trade,” The Guardian, online. http://www.theguardian.com/world/2013/aug/27/britain-slave-trade

26. Smith, Woodruff D. (2002), Consumption and the Making of Respectability, 1600–1800, New York: Routledge.

27. Lemire, Beverly (1991), Fashion’s Favourite: The Cotton Trade and the Consumer in Britain 1660–1800, New York: Oxford University Press.

28. Fisher, Peter (2012), The Calico Acts: Why Britain Turned Its Back On Cotton, University of Puget Sound.

29. Cooper, Brian (1983), Transformation of a Valley: The Derbyshire Derwent, London: Heinemann.

30. Oyangen, Knut (2014), “The cotton economy of the Old South,” in American Agriculture History Primer, Iowa State University.

31. Bruchey, Stuart, ed. (1967), Cotton & the Growth of The American Economy, 1790–1860, New York: Harcourt, Brace & World.

32. Hernon, Ian (2006), Riot!: Civil Insurrection from Peterloo to the Present Day, Pluto Press.

33. Walmsley, Robert (1969), Peterloo: The Case Re-opened Manchester, University Press.

34. Bush, Michael (2005), The Casualties of Peterloo, Carnegie Publishing.

35. Hutchins, B. L. and A. Harrison (1911), A History of Factory Legislation, P. S. King & Son.

36. Greg, R.H. (1837), The Factory Question, Considered in Relation to Its Effects on the Health and Morals of Those Employed in Factories, J. Ridgway and Sons.

37. Wells, Karen (2008), “Invisible hands: Child labour and the state in colonial Zimbabwe, by Beverly Grier (a review),” The Journal of the History of Childhood and Youth.

38. Hay, Douglas (2007), Masters, Servants, and Magistrates in Britain and the Empire, 1562–1955 (Studies in Legal History), University of North Carolina Press.

39. Roosevelt, Franklin (1937), Public Papers and Addresses, Vol. VII, New York, Random House, p. 392.

40. U.S. child labor numbers. http://www.socialwelfarehistory.com/programs/child-labor/

41. Hindman, Hugh D. (2002), Child Labor: An American History, New York: Sharpe, M. E.

42. Mofford, Juliet H. ed. (1997), Child Labor in America History Compass.

CHAPTER 2

43. US apparel employment statistics. http://www.bls.gov/iag/tgs/iag315.htm

44. Canadian apparel jobs decline. http://www.statcan.gc.ca/daily-quotidien/050321/dq050321b-eng.htm

45. IFC Project details CSU Costa Rica. http://ifcext.ifc.org/ifcext/spiwebsite1.nsf/ProjectDisplay/DataConversion9233

46. Sara Lee plant closures, 1. http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1998–01–06/business/9801060323_1_yarn-and-textile-textile-plants-markets

47. Sara Lee plant closures, 2. http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1997–09–16/business/9709160325_1_sara-lee-john-bryan-textile-plants

48. Tursi, Frank (1994), Winston Salem: A History, John F. Blair.

49. “Hanes takeover re: Sheffield v. Consolidated Foods.” http://law.justia.com/cases/north-carolina/supreme-court/1981/91–0.html

50. Consolidated Foods Corp history. http://www.encyclopedia.chicagohistory.org/pages/2623.html

51. Dietz, James (1986), Economic History of Puerto Rico: Institutional Change and Capitalist Development, Princeton.

52. Maldonado, A. W. (1997), Teodoro Moscoso and Puerto Rico’s Operation Bootstrap, University Press of Florida.

53. Chomsky, Aviva (2008), Linked Labor Histories: New England, Colombia, and the Making of a Global Working Class, Duke University Press.

54. Lammert, de Jong and Dirk Kruijt, eds. (2005), Extended Statehood in the Caribbean: Paradoxes of Quasi Colonialism, Local Autonomy, and Extended Statehood in the USA, French, Dutch, and British Caribbean, Rosenberg Publishers.

55. Loeb, Lori Anne (1994), Consuming Angels: Advertising and Victorian Women, Oxford University Press.

56. Goffman, Erving (1979), Gender Advertisements, London: Macmillan.

57. Julian, Philippe and Diana Vreeland (1982), La Belle Époque, New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

58. Farrell-Beck, J. and J. Starr Johnson (1992), Remodeling and Renovating Clothes: 1870–1933, Fairchild Books.

59. U.S. census statistical abstract 1951. http://www2.census.gov/prod2/statcomp/documents/1951–02.pdf

60. Linn, Susan (2004), Consuming Kids: The Hostile Takeover of Childhood, New Press.

61. Kanner, Allen (2003), Psychology and Consumer Culture: The Struggle for a Good Life in a Materialistic World, American Psychological Association.

62. “Driving teen egos and buying through ‘branding,’” Monitor on Psychology, June, 2004, Vol. 35 no. 6, p. 60.

63. Underhill, Paco (2000), Why We Buy: The Science of Shopping, Simon & Schuster.

64. Lewis, David (2014), The Brain Sell: When Science Meets Shopping, Nicholas Brealey Publishing.

65. Khan, Humayun (2014), “How retailers manipulate sight, smell, and sound to trigger purchase behavior in consumers,” Shopify. http://www.shopify.com/blog/14193377-how-retailers-manipulate-sight-smell-and-sound-to-trigger-purchase-behavior-in-consumers

66. Nobel Prize press release (2004), Axel and Buck’s Nobel Prize in Physiology or Medicine. http://www.nobelprize.org/nobel_prizes/medicine/laureates/2004/press.html

67. Urwin, Rosamund (Sept 24, 2013), “Who’s got your brain? The science of shopping uncovered,” London Evening Standard online reference. http://www.standard.co.uk/lifestyle/london-life/whos-got-your-brain-the-science-of-shopping-uncovered-8835845.html

68. For a comprehensive overview of U.S. trade agreements see. https://www.ustr.gov/

69. Carroll, Katherine Blue (2003), Business as Usual? Economic Reform in Jordan, Lexington Books.

70. “Qualifying industrial zones in Jordan and Egypt,” CRS Report for Congress. http://www.au.af.mil/au/awc/awcgate/crs/rs22002.pdf

71. Jordanian Ministry of Labour report on status of migrant workers in the qualified industrial zones (2006). http://www.dol.gov/ilab/submissions/pdf/20091027c.pdf

72. Pettygrove, Margaret (2006), “Obstacles to Women’s political empowerment in Jordan: Family, Islam, and patriarchal gender roles,” Independent Study Project (ISP) Collection, Paper 358. http://digitalcollections.sit.edu/isp_collection/358

73. Greenhouse, Steven and Michael Barbaro (May 3, 2006), The New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/2006/05/03/business/worldbusiness/03clothing.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0

74. “International labor migration: A responsible role for business,” (Oct 2008). http://www.bsr.org/reports/BSR_LaborMigrationRoleforBusiness.pdf

75. See article “Human trafficking and abusive conditions at the Mediterranean garments factory,” (Sept 2008). http://www.globallabourrights.org/reports/human-trafficking-and-abusive-conditions-at-the-mediterranean-garments-factory-in-the-ad-dulayl-industrial-zone-in-jordan

76. See article: “Nygard, Dillard’s, J.C. Penney, Wal-Mart linked to human trafficking and abuse of young women in Jordan sweatshop,” (April 2010). http://www.globallabourrights.org/reports/dirty-clothes

77. Better Work Jordan (May 2010), “Garment industry 1st compliance synthesis report.” http://betterwork.org/jordan/wp-content/uploads/Better-Work-Jordan-1st-Compliance-Synthesis-Report.pdf

78. Government of Canada, Standing Committee on International Trade (Oct 2010) re: Canada-Jordan FTA. http://www.parl.gc.ca/HousePublications/Publication.aspx?DocId=4694895&Language=E&Mode=1

79. Halaby, Jamal (Sept 2011), “Rape case turns focus to Jordan’s factory problems,” AP/Business Week. http://www.businessweek.com/ap/financialnews/D9PJKTAO2.htm

80. Bustillo, Miguel (June 2011), “Sex abuse alleged at apparel maker,” Wall Street Journal. http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB10001424052702304887904576395832981860412

81. Ross, Janell (July 2011), “Major American brands silent on alleged rights abuses at overseas factories,” Huffington Post. http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/07/21/american-brands-abuses-factories-jordan-labor-conditions_n_903995.html

82. Institute for Global Labour and Human Rights (June 2011) report on allegations at Classic factory in Jordan. http://www.globallabourrights.org/reports/hanes-and-target-linked-to-sexual-abuse-classic-factory-in-jordan

83. Better Work Jordan (March 2011), “Garment industry, 2nd compliance synthesis report.” http://betterwork.com/global/wp-content/uploads/Better-Work-Jordan-2nd-Compliance-Synthesis-Report.pdf

84. Statement of the project advisory committee of Better Work Jordan on the release of the 2nd ILO compliance synthesis report on working conditions in Jordan’s garment sector (March 2011). http://betterwork.com/jordan/wp-content/uploads/Project-Advisory-Committee-Statement-2nd-Compliance-Synthesis-Report1.pdf

85. Better Work Jordan (Feb 2013), “Baseline report, worker perspectives from the factory and beyond.” http://betterwork.org/jordan/wp-content/uploads/Jordan-Baseline-Report.pdf page 36.

86. Better Work Jordan (March 2013), “Addressing sexual harassment in Jordan’s garment industry.” http://betterwork.org/jordan/wp-content/uploads/ILO-1402-SHP-training-Case-Study-WEB.pdf

CHAPTER 3

87. Tuckman, Jo (Aug 2007), “Distressed denim trends cost Mexican farmers the earth,” The Guardian. http://www.theguardian.com/environment/2007/aug/17/waste.pollution

88. Maquila Solidarity Network (2003), “Tehuacán: Blue jeans, blue waters & worker’s rights.” http://en.maquilasolidarity.org/sites/maquilasolidarity.org/files/MSN-Tehuacan-ENG-2003.pdf

89. ILO Conventions, Canada’s ratification status. http://www.ilo.org/dyn/normlex/en/f?p=1000:11200:0::NO:11200:P11200_COUNTRY_ID:102582

90. Wohn, Alice (2001), “Towards GATT integration,” University of Pennsylvania. https://www.law.upenn.edu/journals/jil/articles/volume22/issue2/Wohn22U.Pa.J.Int%27lEcon.L.375%282001%29.pdf

91. Saipan (1993). http://www.nytimes.com/1993/07/18/world/made-usa-hard-labor-pacific-island-special-report-saipan-sweatshops-are-no.html

92. Saipan (1992). http://articles.latimes.com/1992–02–12/news/mn-1585_1_labor-laws

93. NBC dateline (Dec 1992), “Where are Wal-Mart’s ‘Made in the USA’ clothes really made?” http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:xFrHOmamzwEJ:archives.nbclearn.com/portal/site/k-12/flatview%3Fcuecard%3D46414+&cd=3&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=ca

94. Hayes, Thomas (Dec 1992), “Wal-Mart disputes report on labor,” The New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/1992/12/24/business/wal-mart-disputes-report-on-labor.html

95. Bobrowsky, David (1999), Creating A Global Public Policy Network in the Apparel Industry: The Apparel Industry Partnership, Bobrowsky.

96. US Department of Justice (April 2000), “Response to Apparel Industry Partnership.” http://www.justice.gov/atr/public/busreview/4513.htm

97. Strom, Stephanie (June 1996), “A sweetheart becomes suspect: Looking behind those Kathie Lee labels,” The New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/1996/06/27/business/a-sweetheart-becomes-suspect-looking-behind-those-kathie-lee-labels.html

98. Borg, Gary (May 1996), “Child sweatshop worker tells of beatings,” Chicago Tribune. http://articles.chicagotribune.com/1996–05–30/news/9605300075_1_kathie-lee-gifford-charles-kernaghan-child-labor

99. Full text of “Child labor: Hearings before the Subcommittee on International Operations and Human Rights of the Committee on International Relations,” House of Representatives, 104th Congress, second session, June 11 and July 15, 1996. http://www.archive.org/stream/childlaborhearin00unit/childlaborhearin00unit_djvu.txt

100. Brandeis, Louis (Dec 1913), “What publicity can do,” Harper’s Weekly. http://www.law.louisville.edu/library/collections/brandeis/node/196

101. Ethical Trading Action Group (Sept 2003), “Transparency and disclosure: New regulatory tools to challenge sweatshop abuses.” http://en.maquilasolidarity.org/sites/maquilasolidarity.org/files/ETAGTransparencyandDisclosure.pdf

102. Haufler, Virginia (2013), “Public role, private sector: Industry self-regulation in a global economy,” Carnegie Endowment.

103. USLEAP (Aug 2008), “Hanes signs contract: Workers win big victory in the Dominican Republic.” http://www.usleap.org/hanes-signs-contract-workers-win-big-victory-dominican-republic

104. Los Angeles Times (Sept 1995), “Sweatshop workers.” http://articles.latimes.com/1995–09–01/local/me-41102_1_sweatshop-workers-elmonte-apparel-industry

105. White, George (June 1996), “Gifford to help Reich in war on sweatshops,” Los Angeles Times. http://articles.latimes.com/1996–06–01/business/fi-10685_1_gifford-s-signature-clothing

106. United States Department of Labor (April 1997), Apparel Industry Partnership Agreement. http://training.itcilo.it/actrav_cdrom1/english/global/guide/apparell.htm

107. Initial participating brands and labor/civil society groups were: Liz Claiborne, Phillips-Van Heusen, Warnaco, L.L. Bean, Patagonia, Nike, Nicole Miller, Tweeds, Karen Kane, Kathie Lee Gifford, UNITE, the AFL-CIO’s Retail, Wholesale, and Department Store Union, the National Consumers League, Lawyers Committee for Human Rights and the Interfaith Center on Corporate Responsibility. A short while later they would be joined by Reebok, consulting group Business for Social Responsibility and two additional NGOs: the International Labor Rights Fund and the Robert F. Kennedy Memorial Center for Human Rights.

108. Benjamin, Medea (April 1997), “No Sweat for Companies to Agree,” Los Angeles Times. http://articles.latimes.com/1997–04–17/local/me-49596_1_minimum-wage

109. Vietnam Labor Watch (March 1997), “Nike Labor Practices in Vietnam.” http://www.saigon.com/nike/reports/report1.html

110. President Bill Clinton’s White House statement re: Apparel Industry Partnership Agreement (April 1997). http://www.gpo.gov/fdsys/pkg/WCPD-1997–04–21/html/WCPD-1997–04–21-Pg518–2.htm

111. Greenhouse, Steve (Nov 1997), “A deep split on policing of sweatshops,” The New York Times. http://www.nytimes.com/1997/11/21/us/a-deep-split-on-policing-of-sweatshops.html

112. Barrett, Joyce (March 29, 1996), “New anti-sweatshop bill will go to House in April,” Women’s Wear Daily (WWD).

113. Staff writer (June 7, 1996), “AAMA in deal with database service for tracking contractors’ compliance,” Women’s Wear Daily (WWD).

114. US House of Representatives (1999), “The role of business in the competitive garment industry: Hearing before the Subcommittee on Oversight and Investigations of the Committee on Education and the Workforce, House of Representatives,” 105th Congress, second session. Hearing held in Washington, DC September 25, 1998. http://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/007606975

115. Ramey, Joanna (28 Sept 1998), “AAMA tells Capitol Hill it will launch its own anti-sweatshop fight,” Women’s Wear Daily (WWD).

116. Vickery, Tim (April 2001), “Who’s watching the shop floor?” Christian Science Monitor. http://www.csmonitor.com/2001/0430/p11s1.html

117. O’Rourke, Dara (Sept 2000), “Monitoring the monitors: A critique of Pricewaterhouse Coopers (PwC) labor monitoring.” http://nature.berkeley.edu/orourke/PDF/pwc.pdf

118. Developed by the German sociologist Robert Michels in his 1911 book, Political Parties, the iron law of oligarchy is a political theory that posits that all organizations, even those which appear democratic in nature, sooner or later come to be dominated by smaller groups of elites from within.

119. Hyland, James. (1995), Democratic Theory: The Philosophical Foundations, Manchester University Press n.d., p. 247.

120. Q1 2015 China salaries survey. http://www.gemini.com.hk/assets/doc/survey_china.pdf

121. Greenhouse, Steve and Clifford Stephanie (Sept 2013), “Fast and flawed inspections of factories abroad.” http://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/02/business/global/superficial-visits-and-trickery-undermine-foreign-factory-inspections.html?pagewanted=5&_r=2

122. Intertek press release (July 2008), “Wal-Mart global procurement enhances quality control in China.” http://www.intertek.com/news/2008/07–11-wal-mart/

123. http://www.cbc.ca/news/world/joe-fresh-continuing-garment-business-in-bangladesh-in-year-after-tragedy-1.2606120

124. Euromonitor International (March 2014), “Key highlights from Euro monitor’s Apparel and Footwear Research 2014.” http://go.euromonitor.com/rs/euromonitorinternational/images/key-highlights-apparel-footwear-2014.pdf

125. Bush, George W. (July 2002), text of speech. http://edition.cnn.com/2002/ALLPOLITICS/07/09/bush.transcript/index.html

CHAPTER 4

126. Staff (June 16, 2006), “Factory denies pumping waste water into river,” South China Morning Post. http://www.scmp.com/article/552969/brief

127. He Huifeng (June 20, 2006), “HK-owned textiles factory in delta faces fines over pollution,” South China Morning Post. http://www.scmp.com/article/553479/hk-owned-textile-factory-delta-faces-fines-over-pollution

128. Spencer, Jane (Aug 2007), “China pays steep price as textile exports boom,” Wall Street Journal. http://www.wsj.com/articles/SB118580938555882301

129. For an in-depth understanding of the Better Cotton Initiative, see www.bettercotton.org

130. Natural Resources Defense Council, “Fiber selection: Understanding the impact of different fibers.” http://www.nrdc.org/international/cleanbydesign/files/CBD-Fiber-Selection-FS.pdf

131. The Guardian, H&M Zone Partner Zone, “Organic cotton demand still on the rise.” http://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/hm-partner-zone/sustainable-cotton-on-the-rise

132. Better Cotton Initiative 2013 Harvest Report. http://bettercotton.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/BCI-Harvest-Report-2013_compressed2.pdf

133. US Department of Labor, “List of goods produced by child or forced labor.” http://www.dol.gov/ilab/reports/child-labor/list-of-goods/

134. Cotton Campaign, “Review of the 2013 cotton harvest in Uzbekistan.” http://www.cottoncampaign.org/wp-content/uploads/2013/11/2013CottonHarvest_end_report.pdf

135. Uzbek-German Forum for Human Rights “Preliminary report on forced labor during Uzbekistan’s 2014 cotton harvest.” http://uzbekgermanforum.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/Forced-Labor-During-Uzbekistans-2014-Cotton-Harvest.pdf

136. BBC Newsnight (Oct 2007), “Child labour and the High Street.” http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/programmes/newsnight/7068096.stm

137. US/Canadian retail industry letter to Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers Association re: Uzbekistan cotton. http://www.retailcouncil.org/sites/default/files/advocacy/joint-association-letter-to-BGMEA-concerning-Uzbek-Cotton-MOU.pdf

138. Aulakh, Raveena (Oct 2013), “In Uzbekistan slave labour used to harvest cotton,” Toronto Star. http://www.thestar.com/news/world/clothesonyourback/2013/10/25/in_uzbekistan_slave_labour_used_to_harvest_cotton.html

139. Responsible Sourcing Network, “Cotton Sourcing Survey of Corporate Practices.” http://www.sourcingnetwork.org/storage/cotton-publications/cottonsourcingsnapshot-editedforprint.pdf

140. Cotton Campaign, companies active in Uzbekistan. http://www.cottoncampaign.org/frequently-asked-questions/

141. Cornell University Law School, “Corporations as legal personages.” http://www.law.cornell.edu/wex/corporations

142. World Wildlife Fund, “Common impacts of the shipping industry.” http://www.wwf.org.au/our_work/saving_the_natural_world/oceans_and_marine/marine_threats/commercial_shipping/impacts/

143. Sustainable Shipping Initiative, “Driving transformational change through the value chain.” http://ssi2040.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/SSI_SustainableShipper_final-041114.pdf

144. Sustainable Shipping Initiative, “Our vision for a sustainable shipping industry.” http://ssi2040.org/what-we-do/vision-2040/

145. H&M 2014 Full Year Financial Report. http://about.hm.com/content/dam/hm/about/documents/en/cision/2015/01/1460341_en.pdf

146. Shen, Bin (2014), Sustainable Fashion Supply Chain: Lessons from H&M, Shanghai: Donghua University.

147. Lewis, Barbara, David Ljunggren and Jeffrey Jones (May 2010), “Canada’s oil sand battle with Europe.” http://www.reuters.com/article/2012/05/10/us-oil-sands-idUSBRE8490OL20120510

148. O Ecotextiles (Oct 2014), “Climate change and the textile industry.” https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/tag/polyester/

149. Chevron El Segundo Refinery, “What is in a barrel of oil?” http://elsegundo.chevron.com/home/abouttherefinery/whatwedo/what_is_in_a_barrel_of_oil.aspx

150. O Ecotextiles (Feb 2013), “Antimony in fabrics.” https://oecotextiles.wordpress.com/tag/polyester/

CHAPTER 5

151. Text of speech by His Highness The Aga Khan (Dec 2003). http://www.akdn.org/speech/596/Opening-of-Alltex-EPZ-Limited-at-Athi-River

152. Recommendations of the WTO Task Force on Aid for Trade [WT/AFT/1], July 27, 2006.

153. Razzaue, Abdur and Abu Eusuf (2007), “Trade, development and poverty linkage: A case study of ready made garment industry in Bangladesh.” http://legacy.intracen.org/dbms/tirs/TIR_Publication_EK.Asp?DS=MONOGRAPHS&TY=F&CD=837&ID=39176

154. IDS Policy Briefing (March 2009), “Changing the Aid for Trade debate towards content.” http://www.ids.ac.uk/files/dmfile/InFocus61.pdf

155. Transparency International Corruption Rankings (2014). http://www.transparency.org/cpi2014/results

CHAPTER 6

156. McFarland, Janet (Jan 2015), “Responsible investment vehicles see demand surge,” Globe and Mail. http://www.theglobeandmail.com/report-on-business/economy/responsible-investment-vehicles-see-demand-surge/article22565321/

157. Pofeldt, Elaine (Oct 2003), “The Nurturer Eileen Fisher/Eileen Fisher Inc.,” Fortune Small Business. http://money.cnn.com/magazines/fsb/fsb_archive/2003/10/01/353434/