The Scene

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Planning

Updated by Jack Jewers

Queen Elizabeth hasn’t invited you this time? No matter. Staying at one of London’s grand dame hotels is the next best thing—some say better—to being a guest at the palace. Royally resplendent decor abounds and armies of extra-solicitous staff are stuck in the pampering mode—the Windsors should have it so good at such fabled landmarks as Claridge’s, the Goring, and the Dorchester. Happily, however, there is no dearth of options where friendliness outdistances luxe—London, thank goodness, has plenty of atmospheric places that won’t cost a king’s ransom.

During the past year, however, a vast new array of spectacular hotels has opened. Head to the Corinthia and you’d never know the recession has struck. But almost as if to launch a broad counterattack, the city’s mid-range hotel scene has at long last gotten its act together, and there is now a choice range of reasonably priced, high-quality hotels that regularly offer good deals and bargain rates.

Leaders in this field are places like the Hoxton—which even makes a handful of rooms available for £1 per night, if you’re lucky enough to snatch one. Several mid-range hotels have dropped their average prices in response to the choppy waters of the global economy, which has pulled some fantastic places, such as Hazlitt’s and Town Hall, back into the affordable category. And there’s a clutch of new, stylish and super-cheap hotels that are a real step forward for the city, with places like Stylotel making heads turn with its small-is-beautiful approach. The downside is that these places tend to be a little out of the way, but that’s often a price worth paying. Another newly attractive alternative are hotels in the Premier and Millennium chains, which offer sleek, modern rooms, lots of modern conveniences, and sales that frequently bring room prices well below £100 a night.

At the budget level, small and interesting bed-and-breakfasts such as the Parkwood and the Church Street Hotel stand out in a sea of battered and old-fashioned B&Bs. An alternative is the easyHotel chain, with its tiny, bright orange “pod” rooms. There’s also the more sophisticated (and more expensive) base2stay, which falls somewhere between budget and moderate. And if you’re willing to fend for yourself, the city has some great rental options, including the innovative One Fine Stay—a new service that lets you borrow gorgeous apartments from real Londoners, with an on-call concierge service to turn to should you need it.

But if you are interested in Luxury, London is just the place. Although the image we love to harbor about Olde London Towne may be fast fading in the light of today’s glittering city, when it comes time to rest your head, the old-fashioned clichés remain enticing. Who wouldn’t want their cream tea served by a frock-coated retainer while lounging in an overstuffed brocade armchair? Or to breakfast on coffee, toast, and croissants in a handmade bed in your powder-blue-and-white Syrie Maughamesque boudoir, as the Thames flows lazily past your French windows? Choose one of London’s heritage-rich hotels—Brown’s or Claridge’s supply perfect parlors; the Savoy has that river view—and these fantasies can, and always will, be fulfilled.

Planning

Lodging Strategy

Where should you stay? With hundreds of London hotels, it may seem like a daunting question. But it doesn’t have to be. The 130-plus selections here represent the best this city has to offer—from the most-for-your-money budget B&Bs to the sleekest designer hotels. Scan “Best Bets” on the following pages for top recommendations by price and experience. Or look through the reviews. To find one quickly, search by neighborhood, then alphabetically. Happy hunting!

Need a Reservation?

Yes. Hotel reservations are an absolute necessity when planning your trip to London, so book your room as far in advance as possible. The further in advance you can book, the better the deal you’re likely to get. Just watch out if you change your mind—cancellation fees can be hefty. On the other hand, it is possible to find some amazing last-minute deals at mid- to high-range places, but this is a real gamble as you could just as easily end up paying full rate. Fierce competition means properties undergo frequent improvements, so when booking inquire about any ongoing renovations that may interrupt your stay.

Checking In

Typical check-in and checkout times are 2 pm and noon, respectively. Many flights from North America arrive early in the morning, but having to wait six hours for a room after arriving jet-lagged at 8 am isn’t the ideal way to start a vacation. Alert the hotel of your early arrival; large hotels can often make special early check-in arrangements, but almost all will look after your luggage in the meantime. Be prepared to drop your bags and strike out for a few hours. On the plus side, this can effectively give you a whole extra day for sightseeing.

Hotel Quality

Note that rooms can vary considerably in a single hotel. If you don’t like the room you’re given, ask to see another. Be prepared for the fact that, while smoking is now banned in public, this doesn’t apply to hotel rooms—so be firm and ask to change if you’re given a smoking room and didn’t request one. Hotels often renovate room by room—you might find yourself allocated a dark, unrenovated room, whereas a bright, newly decorated room awaits just down the hall.

Breakfast

Some hotels include breakfast in the price of the room. It ranges from a gourmet spread to what is known as the “full English” (one fried egg, two sausage links, two thick slices of bacon, a grilled tomato, sautéed mushrooms, and toast). In most budget hotels and B&Bs, this is the only hot breakfast available. Most expensive hotels (and the most imaginative small ones) may also offer pancakes, French toast, waffles, and omelets. Luckily, virtually all accommodations also offer packaged cereals, muffins, yogurt, and fresh fruit, so when the sausage-and-bacon brigade begins to get you down, go continental.

Facilities

Keep in mind that some facilities come with the room rate while others cost extra. So, when pricing accommodations, always ask what’s included. Modern hotels usually have air-conditioning, but B&Bs and hotels in older buildings often do not, and it is generally not the norm in London. Wi-Fi is much more common than it was even a year or two ago, but don’t assume it’s free (large hotels in particular can charge outrageous fees). If you want a double room, specify whether you want a double bed or a twin (two single beds next to each other). All hotels listed here have private baths unless otherwise noted.

Prices

If you’re planning to visit in the fall, winter, or early spring, start monitoring bargain online prices a few months before your trip and book whenever you see a good rate. Chains such as Hilton, Premier, and Millennium are known for their low-season sales in which prices can be as little as half the normal rate.

The exchange rate between the pound and the dollar is also unpredictable, so if it’s looking good when you book, an advance payment deal could end up saving you a decent amount of money. TIP The Visit London Accommodation Booking Service (020/7932–2020 | www.visitlondon.com) offers a best-price guarantee.

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