JALAPEÑO
Good cooking begins with great ingredients. This means not only purchasing the freshest vegetables, seafood, meats, and herbs, but also choosing the best types of oils, vinegars, dried chiles, and condiments. In terms of Mexican ingredients, the best are sold at Mexican markets and increasingly are found in the Mexican food aisles of American markets. If you are unsure where the nearest Mexican market is located, ask the owner of your favorite Mexican restaurant for the closest shopping source. All of the ingredients in this chapter can also be mail-ordered from www.mexgrocer.com.
But before proceeding, one of the essential items for Mexican cooking is not a food ingredient at all: It is an electric blender! The blender came to Mexico in the 1950s and was its own revolution. Pre-blender, everything from a simple guacamole to the complex moles had to be pulverized by using a lava rock shaped into a mortar, or a sloping lava stone called a molcajete. You can use a processor instead of a blender. However, the texture of your sauces will be grainier when made in a food processor, and will lack the beautiful, smooth texture that results when using an electric blender. For the best results, use the powerful electric blender made by Vitamix.
Chiles, corn, tomatoes, and chocolate are the four pillars of Mexican cooking. But of these, chiles are the key to the cuisine. Native to the Americas, they have been cultivated for at least a thousand years and were essential in the diets of the Olmecs, Toltecs, Mayans, and Aztecs. Within a hundred years following the arrival of Cortés, the Spanish spread chiles around the globe, transforming the cuisines of far-flung countries.
An understanding of chiles is impossible without The Great Chile Book by Mark Miller. This book is an essential resource. It has photographs of all the fresh and dried chiles pictured in their actual size, the spice level of each chile, and the recommended uses and substitutions. We follow Miller’s temperature scale, with 10 being the hottest and 1 being the mildest.
FRESH CHILES: Anaheim 2–3, poblano 3, jalapeño 5.5, serrano 7, habanero 10, Scotch bonnet 9–10
Anaheim and poblano chiles are mildly spicy and can be used interchangeably. They have about the same level of spice and are used for many dishes, such as the famous chiles rellenos. These are never eaten raw and are always given a preliminary charring. When dried, poblanos are called ancho chiles (except on the West Coast, where ancho chiles are called pasilla) and Anaheim chiles are called New Mexico chiles (chile seco del norte).
Jalapeño and serrano chiles are the two most commonly used fresh chiles in Mexican cooking. Jalapeño chiles vary in spice level, ranging from moderately spicy to mild as a bell pepper. Serranos are hotter, but these, too, vary in intensity. Test the chile by cutting off the stem and tasting the cut surface of the stem for hotness. Adjust the quantity to use accordingly.
JALAPEÑO
HABANERO
TO SEED OR NOT TO SEED: When using jalapeño and serrano chiles, never extract the seeds and ribs. Just adjust the hotness of the dish by mincing less of the chile. To mince, use an electric mini chopper. Larger fresh chiles such as poblanos are often seeded first, but there is no hard and fast rule of whether to seed these chiles.
THE PLASTIC BAG TECHNIQUE: Habanero and Scotch bonnet chiles are extremely spicy. When handling these, always protect your hands by placing them inside plastic baggies, or wear food-service plastic gloves. If substituting habanero or Scotch bonnets for serrano chiles: 1 habanero or Scotch bonnet chile = 4 serrano chiles.
HOW TO CHAR FRESH CHILES: All Mexican cooks char fresh chiles by placing them on a thin metal pan called a comal that is placed over the highest heat on a gas stovetop. Any heavy frying pan can be substituted for the comal. No oil is added to the pan. Or, gripping chiles with tongs, hold the chiles directly over a gas burner turned to high. This can prove frustrating, since the chiles are inclined to fall into or away from the gas flames, which necessitates constant repositioning. This problem can be solved by using a metal-screen cooling rack that is dedicated just to this function. When chiles char on one side, rotate the chiles, and continue charring until blackened on all sides. Don’t try to char the chiles on a gas grill or under the broiler. The heat won’t be sufficient to blacken the chiles.
TO WASH OR NOT TO WASH OFF THE CHAR? Never wash the chiles to remove the char. Once the chiles are charred on all sides, transfer the chiles to a bowl and cover with plastic wrap. After 5 minutes, rub off the charred bits using dry paper towels. Don’t wash the chiles, as this will wash most of the roasted flavor down the drain.
DRIED CHILES
When fresh chiles are dried, their names change. For example, fresh poblano becomes dried ancho, and fresh jalapeño becomes dried chipotle. Size generally determines the spice level. Most dried chiles of the same size have about the same hotness. One exception is ancho chiles and their confusing name. In California, ancho chiles are packaged as pasilla chiles. But in Mexico, ancho chiles are dried poblano chiles, and pasilla chiles are a different chile altogether called chile negro.
The following dried chiles can all be used interchangeably: guajillo 2–4; mulato 2–4; ancho (dried poblano) 3–5; cascabel 4; chile negro (or pasilla) 3–5.
DON’T OBSESS ABOUT FINDING THE CORRECT TYPE OF CHILE: Chiles of the same size can usually be used interchangeably. But always check the hotness of chiles, both fresh and dried, by having a little taste test and adjusting the amount to be used accordingly.
TO SEED OR NOT TO SEED THE DRY CHILE BEFORE SUBMERGED IN LIQUID: Mexican cooks soften dried chiles by submerging them whole in boiling water or chicken broth. Then the softened chiles are stemmed and the seeds rinsed out. But some of the soft, pulpy interior of the chile can be lost this way. A better technique is to snip off the dry stem end and shake out the seeds. Then place the dried chiles in a saucepan or bowl and cover with boiling water or chicken broth. Keep the chiles submerged with a small plate or bowl. Soak for 30 minutes or until softened, (Note that the water or broth does not need to be kept at a simmer or boil. It gradually cools during the soaking process.)
Sometimes dried chiles are too wrinkled to cut them open and shake away the seeds. In that case, just remove the stem and seeds after submerging the chiles.
CHIPOTLE CHILE
TO TOAST OR NOT TO TOAST THE DRIED CHILES: Mexican cooks usually give the chiles a preliminary toasting in a hot skillet or pan (comal). But if they are toasted for a few seconds too long, the chiles will acquire a bitter taste and the recipe will be ruined. If you skip the preliminary toasting step, the chiles will still give the food a fantastic taste. So, a preliminary toasting of dried chiles is unnecessary.
OTHER CHILE PRODUCTS
CHIPOTLE CHILES IN ADOBO SAUCE: These are smoked jalapeños simmered in a spicy sauce and are typically sold in 4-ounce cans at every Mexican market and many American supermarkets. To use: Finely mince the chiles, including the seeds, and use along with the sauce. Transfer leftovers to a plastic container and refrigerate. Warning: These are extremely spicy.
CHILE POWDER, ANCHO AND CHIPOTLE: These are pure ground chiles, not spice mixes. If you can’t locate these products in your local market, they are always available in Mexican markets. You can also make your own by cutting the dried chiles into small pieces and powdering them in an electric spice grinder. Then package, label, and store with your other spices. One ancho chile equals about 2 tablespoons powder.
CHILE SAUCE: This is a general term covering many types of chile sauce, such as Cholula and Tabasco. Or, you can use sriracha, the Asian chili sauce. You can also substitute crushed red pepper, which is sold in the spice section of all markets. It’s what appears on the table at all pizza restaurants. This is very spicy, so use sparingly.
Other Ingredients
ACHIOTE PASTE: Mexico’s version of a curry paste, achiote paste was originally a Mayan blend of Mexican oregano, cumin, cloves, cinnamon, black pepper, allspice, garlic, and annatto seeds. The latter turns the mixture red. Now achiote paste is sold throughout Mexico and at Mexican markets in this country. It is generally packaged in 3.5-ounce boxes. When buying, always gently press the box to make sure the achiote paste is still soft. If it feels rock-hard, the paste has become stale. We think the best brand is Del Maya.
AVOCADO: This is one of the essential ingredients in Mexican cuisine. Everything depends on the quality of the avocado. Avoid Florida avocados, which have a 6 percent oil content. They don’t have the essential buttery taste. And avocados from Chile are picked too underripe. Buy avocados from California and Mexico. These are 30 percent oil, which gives them a wonderful rich mouthfeel and taste. Avocados are extremely sensitive to frost and thus are grown in a very narrow band around the world. There are dozens of varieties of avocado grown in Mexico, ranging from softball-size fruits to ones just slightly larger than your thumb. If you are unsure of the quality of the avocado, buy a couple extra in case the flesh is streaked with gray or brown. Choose avocados that have a slight give when gently pressed with your fingers. If not used that day, then store avocados in the refrigerator, and use them within a few days.
Limes, chiles, ginger, and tomatillos add a lot of “high notes” to Mexican cuisine.
CHICKEN BROTH: While we prefer using homemade chicken stock, all the recipes in this book have been tested using low-sodium chicken broth. Good brands are Kitchen Basics, Swanson, and Imagine.
CHOCOLATE: The only chocolate used in this book is top-quality European or American bittersweet chocolate, such as Valrhona and Scharffen Berger. To use, chip away at the corners using a chef’s knife. We dislike Mexican chocolate, such as Ibarra and Abuelito brands, which are grainy and sugary.
CILANTRO: There is no middle ground for this essential herb: People either love it or hate it! What has a wonderful, floral, deep lingering flavor for me tastes “soapy” to others, including Julia Child, who hated the herb. Now scientists have linked the aversion for cilantro with specific genes involved with taste and smell. For those in the anti-cilantro camp, use it in dishes where it is cooked. The cilantro will have a milder flavor. Then try a little sprig of cilantro, raw. Keep trying and be brave. Reeducate those genes! To store, wrap the bunch of cilantro in dry paper towels, then place in a plastic bag and store in your crisper. Wash only what will be used right away. If chopping cilantro, use the whole plant, including all the stems. That is why our recipes call for both cilantro leaves and tender stems.
CINNAMON, MEXICAN: True cinnamon, which is what is used in Mexican cooking, is the papery inner bark of several different species of trees from Sri Lanka. It has hints of sweet, warm, soft citrus notes. American cinnamon is derived from the cassia tree in Vietnam and China. Its bark is coarser, thicker, harder, and has a slightly bitter taste. They can be used interchangeably. Look for jars labeled as Mexican cinnamon in Mexican markets. A good brand is La Morenita.
CITRUS ZEST AND JUICE: For grated citrus zest, use a Microplane, sold at all kitchenware shops. These are 1 by 8-inch thin, flat metal graters. Never buy packaged orange, lemon, or lime juice, which has an inferior taste. Always squeeze your own and use within 4 hours.
COCONUT MILK, UNSWEETENED: Always purchase a brand whose ingredients are just coconut and water. Stir the coconut milk before using. It should have the consistency of whipping cream. Trader Joe’s sells a product called Coconut Cream Extra Thick & Rich in 14-ounce cans. This is extremely thick. To use, dilute with an equal amount of cold water. Also appearing in markets are half-gallon containers of a product called coconut milk, which has the consistency of skim milk and lots of additives. Do not buy this product or low-fat coconut milk, which tastes terrible. The best brands: Chaokoh from Thailand and Thai Kitchens. Once opened, refrigerate for no longer than 5 days, or freeze.
CORN: Use fresh corn only at the height of the corn season. It should taste so sweet that the kernels can be eaten raw. Frozen and canned corn is not acceptable as a substitute.
CREMA: This is the Mexican version of sour cream or crème fraîche. It is tarter and thinner than sour cream. It’s used as a garnish or topping on many Mexican dishes. Sold in all Mexican markets and now in many American markets, it is easy to make. Take 1 cup whipping cream (pasteurized, not ultrapasteurized), and stir in 1 tablespoon fresh buttermilk. Transfer to a glass jar, cover loosely with the lid, and place in a warm area, such as above the refrigerator. Leave it for 18 to 24 hours or until it starts to thicken. Stir, tighten the lid, and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. Stir well before using. It should be pourable. This keeps for 2 weeks. (This recipe is from the Fine Dining website.) You may substitute sour cream or crème fraîche thinned with whipping cream for crema.
GINGERROOT: These pungent and spicy, knobby brown roots are sold in all supermarkets in the produce section. Buy firm, fresh ginger with smooth skin. Always peel the ginger by scraping off the skin using the edge of a spoon handle, the dull edge of a paring knife, or the ridge on a Chinese bamboo chopstick. Store uncut ginger in the refrigerator or at room temperature for up to 1 month. There is no substitute for fresh ginger. To use, cut the ginger crosswise in paper-thin slices, then mince in an electric mini chopper.
HERBS: Fresh herbs have a far more intense bouquet than their dried siblings. Fresh herbs are available throughout the year at most supermarkets. In an emergency, substitute ½ teaspoon dried herb for 2 tablespoons chopped fresh herbs. For nearly all fresh herbs, separate the leaves from the stems, discard the stems, and then chop or mince the leaves. The exception is cilantro. For minced cilantro, the entire plant is used, including all the stems as well as the leaves.
HIBISCUS FLOWERS: These are reddish-brown dried flowers. Steeped in boiling water, the water becomes a beautiful red with sweet tropical tastes. Hibiscus tea bags are sold in all Asian markets under the name Roselle Tea and at all Mexican markets sold loose or packaged in small plastic bags.
JICAMA: Think of this as a giant round russet potato but with a white, crisp, slightly sweet interior. Covered in a brown skin that hides the white interior, jicama can weigh up to 50 pounds, with the vines growing to 20 feet or longer. Buy only jicama that feels rock hard. Using a sharp knife, cut away the brown skin. The white interior can be cut into various thicknesses, and it is always eaten raw. Trimmed and cut, jicama can be refrigerated for several days without discoloring. What remains of the whole jicama can be wrapped with plastic and also stored in the refrigerator. Discard after 1 week, as by then it will have converted its sugar into starch.
MILK, EVAPORATED AND CONDENSED: Evaporated milk has about 60 percent of the water removed via evaporation. It is then homogenized, fortified with vitamins and stabilizers, and sterilized. Evaporated milk has the same fluid nature as whole milk, but it is slightly darker, with a hint of caramelized flavor. Avoid skim and low-fat varieties. Sweetened condensed milk has had less processing than evaporated milk. It contains 40 to 45 percent more sugar, and it is pasteurized during the evaporation procedure. It is very thick, almost syrupy. Evaporated milk and condensed milk cannot be used interchangeably. We prefer Carnation brand for condensed milk.
OIL: “Flavorless cooking oil” means any tasteless oil that has a high smoking temperature. The best types are grape-seed oil, rice bran oil, and peanut oil. Canola oil, safflower oil, and corn oil are acceptable alternatives.
OREGANO, MEXICAN: Mexican oregano and Mediterranean oregano are from two entirely different plants. Mediterranean oregano is a member of the mint family, sometimes called wild marjoram. Mexican oregano is a relative of lemon verbena and is native to Mexico. It is similar in taste to Mediterranean oregano but with added notes of citrus and licorice. More aggressive in flavor, it is a perfect match for Mexican dishes.
OYSTER SAUCE: Also called oyster-flavored sauce, this gives dishes a rich taste without a hint of its seafood origins. It is used by innovative Mexican chefs for fusion Mexican dishes. There really is no substitute. It keeps for up to 6 months in the refrigerator. The best brands are Sa Cheng, Hop Sing Lung, and Lee Kum Kee, Old Brand.
PEPPERCORNS, TRICOLOR: Sold in the spice rack of every supermarket, these are a mix of black, white, pink, and green peppercorns. To use, grind in a spice grinder or in a pepper grinder.
PILONCILLO: This is Mexican raw sugar sold in a cone shape of varying sizes. You may see it labeled in America as panela sugar, though this term is not used in Mexico. It has a marvelous caramel-molasses flavor. It keeps indefinitely at room temperature. You may substitute dark brown sugar.
POMEGRANATE MOLASSES (OR SYRUP): This is a dark brown–colored liquid with a syrupy consistency and a wonderful sweet-tart, fruity taste. It’s great used on pancakes, in salad dressings, and to rub on fish about to come off the grill. It’s available at Middle Eastern markets, fine-food shops, and large supermarkets. There is no substitute.
PUMPKIN SEEDS, PEPITAS: One of the three earliest plants domesticated in the Western Hemisphere along with corn and common beans, called “The Three Sisters,” pepitas, or pumpkin seeds, are sold both whole and hulled. When sold whole, they are flat oval, white seeds. Do not buy these. Instead, buy pepitas hulled. Hulled pepitas look small, almost the size of a pine nut, and have a green tint. To use, toast them in a dry skillet over medium heat. When they begin to brown and start to pop, slide them immediately out of the pan and let cool to room temperature. They will keep for up to 6 months stored in a plastic resealable bag in the freezer.
QUESO FRESCO: Traditionally, this “fresh cheese” is made from raw cow’s milk or a combination of cow’s and goat’s milks. It is salty and crumbly and is very similar to soft goat cheese or low-salt feta, both of which can be used as a substitute. In Mexico, this cheese is made fresh every day. The store-bought variety will keep, refrigerated, for 2 weeks.
SESAME SEEDS, WHITE: Buy white sesame seeds sold in the spice section of every American supermarket. Avoid brown or toasted sesame seeds, which are inferior in flavor.
SOY SAUCE: “Thin” or “light” soy sauce is a mildly salty liquid made from soybeans, roasted wheat, yeast, and salt. This is not to be confused with low-sodium soy sauce, which is an inferior-tasting product. The best brands are Pearl River Bridge Golden Label Superior, Koon Chun thin soy sauce, or Kikkoman regular soy sauce. “Dark” or “mushroom” soy sauce is thick enough to coat the neck of the bottle and is far more flavorful than “thin” soy. It is used to darken sauces. The best brand is Pearl River Bridge mushroom soy.
SPICES: Referring to any part of the dried plant except the leaves, this category includes roots (ginger, turmeric, wasabi), bark (cinnamon), berries (allspice), seeds (coriander), seedpods (cardamom), and dried flower buds (cloves). The most common spices used in Mexican cooking are cinnamon, cumin, coriander, and peppercorns. Grind the spices in an electric spice grinder. The spice will have a more intensely fresh flavor than the pre-ground spices sold in the supermarket spice section.
TEQUILA: This is a distilled drink made from the blue agave plant near Guadalajara and the highlands of the western state of Jalisco. To learn more, here.
TOMATILLOS: Pale green, very firm, and about the size and shape of a lime, these are one of the basic building blocks of Mexican cuisine. Slightly sour, with hints of apple, they are used in many green salsas and sauces. Tomatillos, like the tomato, belong to the nightshade family. Look for tomatillos whose papery husk is tightly clinging. The tomatillos should be very firm and the surface of it under the husk will feel slightly sticky. Don’t try to wash off the stickiness. Often a part of the tomatillo exterior will have a purplish coloration. This is fine, but do not buy any tomatillos that are even the slightest bit soft. Prior to use, the paper husk is always removed. Then for most recipes the tomatillos are given a browning in a very hot, dry skillet. Cook until there are a few brown spots here and there and the tomatillo is heated through, about 2 minutes. (You are not trying to blacken the exterior like charring a pepper.) Extra tomatillos can be stored in a paper bag and refrigerated for up to 1 month.
TOMATOES: Native to the Americas and spread throughout the world by the Spanish, the tomato is an essential ingredient in Mexican cooking. Any dish using tomatoes will either triumph or sink to a wretched level based on the quality of the tomatoes. Use only vine-ripened tomatoes, which are available from May through October. Avoid all canned or boxed tomatoes when possible.
TORTILLAS, CORN AND FLOUR: These are essential to Mexican cuisine. Used as a wrap to hold cooked foods, or fried into chips, or powdered for mole sauces, good-quality corn and flour tortillas are available at many American markets. Flour tortillas are used mostly in northern Mexico, which is the wheat-growing area, while corn tortillas are used in the central and southern parts of the country. When buying, select the thinnest tortillas. Gently bend each package. The tortillas that bend the easiest are the freshest. To warm in the microwave, wrap 8 tortillas in a damp paper towel. Microwave on High power for 60 seconds. To warm in the oven, wrap 10 tortillas in a damp paper towel, then wrap in aluminum foil, and heat in a 325°F oven for 20 minutes. To warm on the grill or gas stovetop, place the tortillas over direct fire for a few seconds on each side. (If you have an electric stove, use a dry frying pan over medium heat.) To keep warm, wrap tortillas in a warm, damp napkin and place in a basket or a terra-cotta tortilla warmer.
VANILLA BEAN PASTE: Sold in small jars at gourmet markets, this is a thick vanilla syrup with little specks of vanilla bean particles suspended throughout. In recipes using vanilla extract, substitute an equal amount of vanilla bean paste. The flavor will be superior.
WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE: This is used a lot by Mexican cooks. As a good substitute, replace it with an equal amount of thin soy sauce or oyster sauce.
