“When are they delivering the cake?”
“Calm down, Alex,” said Celia. “You’ve asked that fifty times and I’ve answered you each time, the cake is on its way. There, he’s walking in the back door now.”
“Has she always been like this?” asked the baker with a shake of his head.
“Yes!” chorused my mother and my brothers.
I glared at them. “Am I the only one who understands the significance of this occasion?”
“Yes, Alex,” drawled Keira, “you and you alone are the only one who can feel the tremendous amount of pressure of the day.”
“Keira, you realize that you could have been put on cleanup detail instead, right?”
“Pfft. As if.” She strolled off in her stilettos to perch prettily on a chair and munch on a cookie.
“I thought marriage was supposed to calm people down,” Elliott said in what he thought was a whisper.
“Ha!”
“What was that, Cam?”
“Nothing, dearest.”
I walked over to him and Elliott, and opened my mouth to say something, then burst into laughter and pinched each of them on the cheek.
“My husband and his partner in crime—when will you two ever change?”
They both rolled their eyes innocently.
“Pop, hand me the baby.”
Pop reluctantly handed his namesake over to me.
“Marco! Mama and Daddy have a big party today! Are you ready for it?”
He blinked his shining green eyes and grinned his toothless grin, and Cam came over to kiss the top of his son’s head. Elisabetta ran over in her sassy four-year-old style to reach up for a kiss from Uncle Cam as well.
“Okay, everybody. The doors open in 10 minutes. Where’s Nonna?”
“Right here.” Elliott dusted an invisible speck off the drawing that he had done in tribute. He hung the memorial picture on the wall where the inspiration for my cooking could best look out the window onto the streets she knew so well.
We stood silently for a moment.
“There, bella mia, like you said, when I opened a restaurant here, you would be here every night,” I whispered.
“All right then,” I said briskly. “Open the doors.”
And we opened the doors to the latest in the Nonna’s Family Kitchen chain, on main street in my hometown.
I have been fortunate enough to inherit many wonderful recipes from the best cook I have ever known: my own mother, Teresa Oliverio. I have shared the recipes she taught me with Alexandria in this book. Other wonderful cooks have shared recipes with me throughout the years, and I have approximated them for Alexandria as well. Also, I received permission to reprint several other recipes verbatim for Alexandria.
Sauce layer:
1 pound ground beef
1/2 pound ground pork (not sausage)
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
2 medium carrots, finely chopped
2 celery stalks, finely chopped
1 can (28 ounces) tomato sauce
1 can (14 ounces) chicken or beef broth
3 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh basil, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Cheese layer:
1 container (24 ounces) ricotta cheese (never cottage cheese!)
1/2 cup grated Romano or Parmesan cheese
About 1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Pasta layer:
1 package lasagne noodles, prepared according to package directions (for best results, use the “no-boil” type)
Mozzarella layer:
1 pound shredded mozzarella cheese
Extra Romano or Parmesan for sprinkling
1. To make the sauce layer: Brown the beef and pork in a large pot, then move to a separate dish.
2. Add the oil to the pot. Sauté the onion, garlic, carrots, and celery until soft and translucent.
3. Return the meat to the pot.
4. Add the tomato sauce, broth, parsley, basil, salt, and pepper. Bring to a low boil.
5. Reduce the heat and simmer for about 1 hour, or until the thickness is satisfactory, stirring occasionally.
6. When the sauce is done, preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
7. To make the cheese layer: In a large bowl, mix the ricotta, Romano, salt, and pepper.
8. To assemble: In a 9” x 13” pan, pour one layer of sauce.
9. Place one layer of pasta, then one layer of the cheese mixture, then one layer of mozzarella. Sprinkle on a bit of Romano.
10. Continue alternating layers until the pan is full. Make the last layer the mozzarella-Romano layer.
11. Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 45 minutes.
12. Remove the foil and bake for 10 to 15 minutes more. It should be bubbly on the sides and brown on top. This tastes better if you let it sit for a few minutes before you cut and serve.
2 or 3 small zucchini, peeled and sliced very thin
5 or 6 medium to large potatoes, peeled and sliced very thin
3 cups spaghetti sauce (preferably homemade)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 medium onion, diced
Grated cheese (Romano or Parmesan)
Seasoned bread crumbs
1. Place the zucchini and potato slices in separate bowls.
2. Pour just enough sauce in each bowl to coat the slices without drenching them (usually about 3/4 cup for zucchini and 1 cup for potatoes). Set aside the remaining sauce.
3. To assemble: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
4. Pour the oil in the bottom of a 9” x 13” pan to coat.
5. Layer in this order: potatoes, zucchini, sprinkle of onions, sprinkle of cheese, sprinkle of bread crumbs. Repeat until the potatoes and zucchini are gone.
6. Pour the reserved sauce over the top. Add a final dusting of the cheese.
7. Cover with aluminum foil. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, or until bubbly, then uncover and bake for about 15 minutes, or until the potatoes are done.
(in the style of Luisa Antonucci, Montichiari, Italy)
1/2 pound pancetta or bacon, cubed
1 medium onion, chopped
1 can (28 ounces) unseasoned tomato sauce
1 teaspoon (more if desired) red-pepper flakes
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pound pasta of your choice
1. In a large sauté pan, brown the pancetta until nearly crisp.
2. Add the onion to the pan and sauté until translucent.
3. Add the sauce, pepper flakes, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil.
4. Cover, reduce the heat, and simmer for about 45 minutes, stirring occasionally.
5. When the sauce is nearly done, prepare the pasta according to package directions.
6. Drain the pasta. Remove the sauce from the heat, and add the pasta to the pan.
2 boneless, skinless chicken breasts, butterflied and split into 4 pieces
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
All-purpose flour, for dredging
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup chicken stock
1/2 cup dry white wine
1/4 cup brined capers, rinsed
1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Season the chicken with salt and pepper. Dredge the chicken in flour and shake off the excess.
3. In a large skillet over medium-high heat, melt 2 tablespoons of the butter with 3 tablespoons of the oil. When they start to sizzle, add 2 pieces of chicken and cook for 3 minutes. When the chicken is browned, flip and cook the other side for 3 minutes. Remove and transfer to an ovenproof pan, being careful not to layer.
4. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the skillet, and repeat the cooking process with the remaining 2 pieces of chicken. Add to the pan with the other chicken. Place the pan in the oven to continue the cooking while you make sauce.
5. To the same large skillet, add the lemon juice, stock, wine, and capers. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring and scraping the brown bits from the bottom of the pan, until boiling.
6. Return the chicken to the sauce and simmer for about 5 minutes.
7. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter to the mixture to thicken.
8. May be served over pasta or with vegetables or mashed potatoes. Garnish with the parsley.
Meatballs:
1 small onion, grated
1/3 cup chopped fresh Italian parsley
1 large egg
1 teaspoon minced garlic
1 teaspoon salt
1 slice fresh white bread, crust trimmed, bread torn into small pieces
1/2 cup grated Parmesan plus extra for garnish
8 ounces ground beef
8 ounces ground pork
Freshly ground black pepper
Combine all of the ingredients and make very small meatballs. Brown the meatballs in a frying pan or in the oven at 350 degrees F. Drain and set aside.
Soup:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup minced onion
1 cup diced carrots (3 carrots)
3/4 cup diced celery (2 stalks)
10 cups chicken stock
1/2 cup dry white wine
1 cup acini di pepe pasta
12 ounces baby spinach, washed and trimmed
1. Heat the oil over medium-low heat in a large heavy-bottomed soup pot.
2. Add the onion, carrots, and celery and saute for 5 to 6 minutes, stirring occasionally, until softened.
3. Add the chicken stock and wine and bring to a boil.
4. Add the reserved meatballs and cook for about 1 minute.
5. Add the pasta and cook for 6 to 8 minutes, until the pasta is tender.
6. Stir in the spinach until just wilted. Serve with extra grated Parmesan cheese.
Roasted peppers (recipe below)
Assorted cold cuts (prosciutto, salamis, ham, cappicola)
Assorted cheeses (provolone, mozzarella, Colby, Cheddar)
Olives (green, black)
Jarred pickled cauliflower, or jarred “jardiniare”
Italian bread or rolls
1. Arrange the roasted peppers, meats, and cheeses on a platter.
2. Serve the olives and pickled vegetables in small bowls.
3. Serve with baskets of sliced bread or rolls.
Roasted Peppers
The best method for roasting peppers is on direct heat, either on
an outdoor grill or on a burner of a gas stove indoors. (Note: If
you have an electric stove, preheat the oven to 400 degrees F and
place the peppers on a cookie sheet; put them in the oven and
follow the remainder of the directions.)
1. Cook peppers (as many as fit on a grill or cookie sheet) until they are charred on all sides.
2. Remove from the heat source, then place them in a paper bag. Close the bag and let them steam for about 15 minutes.
3. Scrape the charred bits off the peppers. Then slice and remove the stem and seeds.
4. Cover the pepper slices with vegetable oil, salt, black pepper, and garlic salt to taste. Allow to marinate before serving. Best served cold.
Cookies:
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
12 eggs
1 cup sugar
Pinch of salt
1 cup shortening
Enough flour to make pliable dough
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Grease cookie sheets.
2. In a large bowl, mix together all of the ingredients to make a soft, pliable dough. Don’t overmix or cookies will be tough.
3. Slice small portions of dough and roll to create a coil about the width of your finger and 12” long.
4. Cut each coil in thirds and tie each third into a knot. Place on cookie sheets.
5. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, or until golden brown.
6. Cool before icing.
Icing:
1 pound confectioners’ sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Enough milk to make a medium-thick icing
Food colorings of choice (usually matching bridal colors)
1. In a medium bowl, mix all of the ingredients together.
2. Dip the cooled cookies one at a time into the icing to cover the tops.
3. Let dry in one layer.
4. When dry, layer the cookies between sheets of waxed paper in airtight containers. Makes about 5 dozen
2 eggs, separated
3 1/2 tablespoons sugar
Grated peel of 1/2 lemon or lime
11 ounces mascarpone cheese
Pinch of salt
5 tablespoons rum
1 cup very strong coffee
1 package (6 ounces) ladyfingers (or an amount that fits a 9” x 9” baking dish)
Cocoa powder
1. In a large bowl, whip the 2 egg yolks together with the sugar until creamy.
2. Add the lemon peel. Stir in the mascarpone.
3. In a separate bowl, beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until slightly creamy. Fold into the marscarpone mixture.
4. In a small bowl, mix the rum into the coffee.
5. To assemble: Place half the ladyfingers in one layer on the bottom of a 9” x 9” baking dish. Pour half of the rum mixture over the ladyfingers. Spread half of the mascarpone mixture over top.
6. Make a second layer of the remaining ladyfingers. Pour the remainder of the rum mixture over top. Spread the remainder of the mascarpone mixture.
7. Sift the cocoa over top to cover lightly.
8. Refrigerate for at least 1 or 2 hours before serving.
2 cans (16 ounces each) chickpeas or garbanzo beans, reserving 1/2 cup liquid
Juice of 2 lemons
3 tablespoons tahini
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons olive oil
1. Heat the chickpeas in a saucepan over medium heat until just bubbly. Drain, but save the liquid.
2. Combine the chickpeas and the remaining ingredients in a blender or food processor. Add the reserved chickpea cooking liquid. Blend until smooth. (If more moisture is needed, add the reserved 1/2 cup liquid from the chickpea cans.)
3. Add more lemon juice or olive oil to taste.
3/4 cup bulgur wheat
2 cups cold water
2 cups parsley, finely chopped
1 cup chopped scallions
1/4 cup mint, finely chopped
2 medium tomatoes, seeded and diced
1/4 cup olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon
1 to 2 teaspoons salt
Freshly ground black pepper to taste
1. Place the bulgur wheat in a small bowl and cover with the water. Let soak for about 1 hour. Drain excess water from the wheat.
2. In a large bowl, combine the wheat, parsley, scallions, mint, and tomatoes.
3. Add the oil, lemon juice, salt, and pepper and stir.
4. Chill and serve. Adjust the lemon juice and oil to taste.
1 medium to large eggplant
1/4 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup tahini
2 tablespoons sesame seeds
2 cloves garlic, minced
Salt to taste
1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil
1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Lightly grease a baking sheet.
2. Place the eggplant on the baking sheet and poke holes all over the skin with a fork. Roast for 30 to 40 minutes, turning occasionally, until soft. Remove from the oven and cool.
3. Peel the skin off the eggplant, cut into cubes, and place in a food processor.
4. Add the lemon juice, tahini, sesame seeds, and garlic. Add the salt and oil and process until smooth. Refrigerate before serving.
3/4 cup light or dark brown sugar
1 teaspoon hickory-smoked sea salt
1 tablespoon paprika
1 tablespoon garlic powder
3 1/2 to 4 pounds meaty pork ribs (peel off membrane covering the bony side)
2 cups Barbecue Sauce (recipe to follow)
1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Line a baking pan with foil, allowing enough extra foil to extend over the sides of the pan.
2. Mix the sugar, salt, paprika, and garlic powder in a small bowl to make the rub.
3. Apply the rub liberally on all sides of the ribs.
4. Place the ribs in the baking pan, bringing the foil over the ribs to form a packet.
5. Bake for 2 to 2 1/2 hours, or until the meat begins to shrink from the bones.
6. Remove the pan from the oven. Change the oven setting from Bake to Broil.
7. Cut the ribs into serving portions and place on a broiler pan.
8. Brush the sauce on the ribs. Broil for 2 minutes, or until the sauce bubbles.
9. Turn the ribs, brush with the sauce, and broil for another 2 minutes.
2 cups ketchup
1 cup apple juice
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons heavy molasses
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
2 tablespoons dark brown sugar
2 tablespoons mustard
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1. Combine all the ingredients in a saucepan over high heat. Bring to a boil.
2. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, stirring occasionally, for 35 minutes, or until the sauce thickens.
1 cup cornmeal
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tablespoons sugar
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup shortening
1 egg
1 cup milk
1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Grease an 8” x 8” pan.
2. In a large bowl, mix all the ingredients with an electric mixer for 20 seconds on low. Beat on medium-high for 1 minute.
3. Pour into the pan. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes, or until a toothpick comes out dry when inserted.
3 cups flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 cup shortening
1 egg, beaten
1/3 cup cold water
1 teaspoon vinegar
1. In a large bowl, mix together the flour and salt.
2. Cut the shortening into the flour mixture.
3. In a small bowl, mix the egg, water, and vinegar.
4. Add the egg mixture to the flour mixture and knead lightly until the dough forms. Makes 2 double crusts.
(in the style of “Mammaw” Boor, Buckhannon, West Virginia)
Piecrust for 1 9” pie (use Best-Ever Piecrust or another recipe)
Filling:
1 cup brown sugar
4 heaping tablespoons all-purpose flour
2 egg yolks, lightly beaten
2 cups milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
2 tablespoons butter
Meringue:
2 large egg whites at room temperature
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 cup superfine sugar
1/4 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/8 teaspoon vinegar
1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.
2. Line a 9” pie pan with the piecrust. Trim the pastry to 1/2” beyond the edge of the plate and flute the edges.
3. Line the crust-filled pie pan with aluminum foil and fill with dried beans.
4. Bake for 15 minutes.
5. Remove the foil and beans and bake for 10 minutes more.
6. For the filling: In a double boiler over medium heat, whisk together the brown sugar, flour, egg yolks, milk, vanilla, and butter until smooth.
7. Cook over medium heat until thickened. Remove from the heat and pour into the prebaked pie shell.
8. For the meringue: In a clean glass or metal bowl, beat the egg whites on medium speed until foamy. Add the cream of tartar and beat until soft but definite peaks form.
9. Very gradually, beat in the sugar. Beat on high speed until the peaks are stiff and glossy, but not dry.
10. Add vanilla and vinegar.
11. Immediately spread the meringue over the hot pie filling, all the way to the edge of the pie.
12. Bake for about 20 minutes, or until the meringue has browned.
13. Chill completely before serving.
(reprinted with permission from Curries without Worries: An Introduction to Indian Cuisine by Sudha Koul [New York: Warner Books, 1993])
1/2 pound boneless pork, beef, or lamb cut into 2”x2”x1”pieces
6 tablespoons vinegar
2 large onions, sliced
2 tablespoons chopped fresh ginger
6 cloves garlic, chopped
1 cup chopped fresh coriander
4 dry hot peppers
1 tablespoon whole cumin seeds
2” cinnamon stick, coarsely crushed
6 tablespoons oil
1 tablespoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 hot green peppers
Salt to taste
1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
2 cups water
1. Marinate the meat in 2 tablespoons of the vinegar for 4 hours in the refrigerator.
2. Blend the onions, ginger, garlic, coriander, hot peppers, cumin, and cinnamon with the remaining 4 tablespoons vinegar to make a paste. You may have to add a tablespoon or two of water to facilitate the blending.
3. When ready to cook, heat the oil in a 6-quart saucepan on high heat. Add the puree, and reduce heat to medium-high. Fry briskly for a couple of minutes.
4. Add the turmeric, black pepper, meat, and marinade. Fry well for 10 minutes, taking care not to burn the meat. Stir briskly and constantly.
5. Add the green peppers, salt, sugar, cloves, and water. Stir, cover, reduce heat to medium, and cook for about 45 minutes, until the gravy thickens and the meat is completely tender. Serve hot.
(reprinted with permission from Curries without Worries: An Introduction to Indian Cuisine by Sudha Koul [New York: Warner Books, 1993])
1 cup lentils
6 cups water
Salt to taste
3 ripe medium tomatoes, chopped
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons finely chopped ginger
4 tablespoons ghee (see recipe below)
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds
2 dry red hot peppers
1/2 cup chopped fresh coriander
1. In a large pot, bring all the ingredients, except the fresh coriander, to a boil on high heat. Reduce heat to low and cook until the dal is tender. This should take 20 to 30 minutes, depending on which type of lentils you use.
2. When the dal is done, sprinkle the coriander on top, stir, and serve hot.
Ghee
You can purchase prepared ghee or make it as follows:
Melt and simmer 1 pound of unsalted butter in a very heavy saucepan at the lowest possible heat until a clear, yellowish liquid forms on top and almost all the sediment from the butter has settled at the bottom. This should take about 15 minutes. Cool to room temperature.
Strain, and pour into a jar that can be covered tightly. Any foam floating on the top can be removed by straining. The main point is that when a clear yellowish liquid is formed from the butter, and some sediment has settled at the bottom, the ghee is ready. Any further simmering may cause the ghee to burn and turn into a brown liquid, which is not what you want. Can be kept for many months.
(reprinted with permission from Curries without Worries: An Introduction to Indian Cuisine by Sudha Koul [New York: Warner Books, 1993])
1 pound fresh green beans, cut into 1” pieces
Salt to taste
1/2 cup water
2 tablespoons oil
1/2 tablespoon mustard seeds
A few curry leaves
1/2 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
1 small onion, finely chopped
1/2 cup grated fresh coconut
1. Bring the beans, salt, and water to a boil in a medium saucepan on high heat. Cover, lower heat to medium, and cook for 10 minutes. Drain off the water and set the beans aside.
2. In a 4-quart saucepan, heat the oil on high. Add the mustard seeds, curry leaves, ginger, and onion. Fry for a couple of minutes. Add the beans and stir-fry for a minute. Add the grated coconut, stir, and remove from the heat. Serve hot.
Primanti
(This is in the style of the Primanti Bros. Restaurants of Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, and is only an approximation. To truly enjoy an authentic Primanti’s sandwich, visit one of the Primanti Bros. restaurants in the Steel City. Double Yoi!)
1 loaf good Italian bread, cut into wide slices
Cold cuts of choice (Genoa salami, cappicola, ham, etc.) or cooked Italian sausage or roast beef
Provolone cheese
Cooked french fries (hand-cut preferred, but frozen will do in a pinch)
Coleslaw (sweet and sour, not mayo based; see recipe below)
Tomato slices
Assemble on the bread in this order: meat, cheese, fries, slaw, and tomatoes.
Coleslaw
1 tablespoon white sugar
2 tablespoons brown sugar
1 teaspoon dried mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon celery seeds (not celery salt)
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/4 cup distilled white vinegar (not cider vinegar)
1 large bag cabbage slaw mix
In a large bowl, add all the ingredients except the cabbage mix. Stir well to combine, then stir in the cabbage mix.