Ode to Barbecue

We are lost again in the middle of redneck nowhere,

                which is a hundred times scarier

than any other nowhere because everyone has guns.

                Let me emphasize that plural—rifles,

double-barreled shotguns, .22 semiautomatics,

                12-gauge pumps, .357 magnums. And for what?

Barbecue. A friend of a friend's student's cousin's

                aunt's husband was a cook in the army

for 30 years, and he has retired to rural Georgia

                with the sole aim in his artistic soul of creating

the best barbecued ribs in the universe and, according

                to rumor, he has succeeded, which is not surprising

because this is a part of the world where the artistic soul

                rises up like a phoenix from the pit of rattlesnake

churches and born-again retribution, where Charlie Lucas

                the Tin Man creates dinosaurs, colossi of rusted

steel bands and garbage can mamas with radiator torsos,

                electric-coil hearts, fingers of screws. Here W. C. Rice's

Cross Garden grows out of the southern red clay with rusted

                Buicks shouting, “The Devil Will Put Your Soul

in Hell Burn It Forever” and “No Water in Hell,” and I think

                of Chet Baker singing “Let's Get Lost,” and I know

what he means, because more and more I know

                where I am, and I don't like the feeling,

and Chet knew about Hell and maybe about being saved,

                something much talked about in the Deep South,

being saved and being lost because we are all sinners,

                amen, we bear Adam's stain, and the only way

to heaven is to be washed in the blood of the Lamb,

                which is kind of what happens when out of the South

Georgia woods we see a little shack with smoke

                pouring from the chimney though it's August

and steamier than a mild day in Hell; we sit at a picnic table

                and a broad-bellied man sets down plates of ribs,

a small mountain of red meat, so different from Paris

                where for my birthday my husband took me

to an elegant place where we ate tiny ribs washed down

                with a sublime St.-Josèphe. Oh, don't get me wrong,

they were good, but the whole time I was out of sorts,

                squirming on my perfect chair, disgruntled,

because I wanted to be at Tiny Register's, Kojack's,

                J. B.'s, I wanted ribs all right but big juicy ribs dripping

with sauce, the secret recipe handed down from grandmother

                to father to son, sauce that could take the paint off a Buick,

a hot, sin-lacerating concoction of tomatoes, jalapeños

                and sugar, washed down with iced tea, Coca-Cola, beer,

because there's no water in Hell, and Hell is hot, oh yeah.