Paris for vegetarians
Vegetarian Paris
Paris, France. Just whisper those two little words and a flash of vivid images spring to mind: The Eiffel Tower, boulangeries redolent with the yeasty aroma of warm baguettes, berets tilted at jaunty angles, sidewalk cafés. One of the last things anyone might think of when imagining the City of Light in all its glory is a café scene where meat and dairy are off the table, and in their place are flavorful, imaginative, locally grown, gorgeous foods. Well, such a thing does exist, though it is a relatively recent phenomenon.
Between 2012 and 2013, a half-dozen new veg restaurants opened their doors in Paris, and the trend is continuing on that upward swing, with several meat-free eateries launching in the French capital in 2014. Shifts are happening in the retail world, too, with more and more supermarkets carrying vegetarian specialty items including veggie burgers, non-dairy yogurts and milks, and other convenience foods. Supermarkets are also dedicating entire aisles to organic and gluten-free foods, hinting at a growing acceptance of “alternative” diets in a country with a very firm grip on its culinary traditions.
Each Parisian arrondissement has something to offer herbivores, from dairy-free ice-cream stands to meat-free burger bars. In this guide, you’ll discover not only great vegetarian dining possibilities, but creative ideas on how to enjoy Paris’s many attractions—museums, parks, monuments, shopping districts, architecture—while staying sated, hydrated, and entertained.
How To Use This Guide
This food, culture, and travel guide is not just for vegans and vegetarians, but also tourists with food sensitivities, environmentally conscious travelers, those interested in organic living, and globetrotters in search of a unique travel experience in what is, arguably, the world’s most beautiful and romantic city.
To help you on your way, we’ve included a language primer to arm you with the most common culinary terms you’ll encounter, and to encourage you to go local and impress the natives (“s’il vous plaît” and “merci” are très important and will take you very far).
Our Paris map introduces readers to the city’s arrondissements, the 20 unique districts that spiral out like a snail’s shell beginning at the Louvre (1st) and ending in eastern Paris (20th), home to the famous Père Lachaise cemetery and some of the city’s best music venues. The map also illustrates Rive Gauche and Rive Droite (left and right banks of the river Seine), and points out the major monuments and tourist sites for easy navigation.
Next, we introduce you to the wonderful vegan, vegetarian, and omnivorous restaurants, cafés, fast-food spots, boutiques, and other places that make the French capital such a welcoming place for herbivores. And in between, you’ll meet some authentic Parisians who share their top tips for travelers, including their favorite local markets, dining spots, watering holes, wine shops, and day-trip destinations.
An important reminder while reading this guide is that wherever you are in Paris, you’re rarely more than a 30-minute Métro ride to anywhere in the city, so you never have to feel resigned to eat frites and a salad at the corner brasserie. While this guide offers dining destinations in every arrondissement, you’ll notice some corners of Paris are more bountiful in terms of edible possibilities than others. But don’t forget the 30-minute rule and you’ll never go hungry or settle for a substandard meal.
Understanding French Dining Hours
In Paris, and throughout the rest of France, there are three kinds of dining hours: Standard, service continu, and le snack hours. Standard hours for lunch are 12.00-15.00. Evening meal hours are generally 19.00-22.00, and sometimes later. Breakfast isn’t really a “thing” here; generally it’s a grab-and-go croissant or a thimbleful of coffee at the corner café. Weekend brunch, however, is a recent phenomenon that’s beginning to catch fire, so if you’re hankering for a hearty morning meal, seek it out on Saturdays and Sundays beginning at about 11.00.
Some restaurants, however, offer all-day dining service known as service continu where you could order off the standard lunch menu at 16.00 or even 17.00 if you feel like it. Generally, brasseries and chain restaurants catering to tourists are the ones providing these off-hours opportunities. A third possibility is le snack: some cafés offer simple sandwiches or a very limited menu between standard meal times; look for an ardoise (chalkboard) advertising light bites that might include panini or salads.
If you’re traveling with children, keep in mind that booster seats and high chairs aren’t typically found in French restaurants. Infants are frequently left sleeping in their poussettes (strollers) while their parents eat, or, as is often the case, left at home.
And remember: Leaving a tip is optional!
and getting around by métro, bus, car, and bike
There are many means of getting to la Ville Lumière from wherever you are in the world, including planes, trains, buses, and boats. Once you’re here, you’ll discover excellent public-transit options including the ride-share system called co-voiturage that allows you to share expenses, meet new people, and get where you need to go even when the country is in the throes of a pesky transportation grève (strike).
Charles De Gaulle International Airport
Most international flights land at Charles de Gaulle, which the French refer to as “Roissy.” To get to Paris from the airport, there are several options including the cheap (€9.50) RER B train. Leaving from Terminal 2, it takes about 30 minutes to get to Gare du Nord. (If your flight arrives at Terminal 1, there’s a free shuttle bus to Terminal 2.) Tickets can be purchased from kiosks in the station or from a vendor inside one of the station ticket booths.
Another option is Roissybus (€10), which circles each terminal every 15 minutes from 05:45-20.00, every 20 minutes between 20.00-22.00, and every 30 minutes between 22.00-23.00. Your bus will deposit you in central Paris behind the Opéra Garnier. The trip runs about 45-60 minutes. Tickets can be purchased on board.
Air France buses are big and cushy, and leave from Terminal 1 and 2 every 15 minutes from 05.45 to 23.00, with stops at Porte Maillot and Place de l’Étoile (the Arc de Triomphe). Tickets cost €16.10 and the trip takes about an hour. Going the opposite direction, buses also leave from Gare de Lyon and Montparnasse station. Tickets can be purchased on board the bus.
The least expensive option is Bus 350, which runs from the airport train station to Gare du Nord every 15 minutes Monday through Friday, and every half-hour on weekends. The trip takes about 45-60 minutes, and you can purchase tickets (€5.65) from the driver.
Arriving By Train
Paris‘s six main train stations each offer service to different regions in France and other countries. At Gare d’Austerlitz (in the 13th arrondissement) you can catch trains to southwest France, Spain, and Portugal; at Gare de l’Est (10th), you’ll be able to reach eastern France and Germany; trains departing Gare de Lyon (12th) head to southern and eastern France, Switzerland, and Italy; Gare Montparnasse(15th) serves Brittany and Bordeaux; Gare Saint-Lazare (9th) trains depart for Normandy; and trains from Gare du Nord (10th) leave for Belgium, Holland, Germany, and England.
At each station you’ll find both grande ligne TGV trains for long-distance trips and TER suburban lines for shorter trips. To scout ticket prices online, visit www.sncf.com. Don’t forget to composter (punch) your ticket in one of the yellow machines on the platform before you board the train. If you haven’t enough time, present yourself to a conductor as soon as you board the train so you aren’t charged a cheater’s fine.
Public Transportation
Paris has an extraordinary public transportation system. Métro lines link the entire city and close suburbs and run between 05:30-01.00 weekly, and until 02:15 Fridays and Saturdays. The same type of ticket you use for the Métro can be used for buses and trams. Tickets can be purchased from kiosks or human-staffed booths in the station, either as individual tickets or as a carnet, or bundle of 10 tickets. This is the less-expensive option; when purchased individually, each ticket costs €1.70, but when bought in lots of 10, the price drops to €1.37 each. The prices increase every year, but tickets never expire, so you can use the tickets you bought ten years ago on the train today if you’ve got them!
As long as you don’t exit the station, you can use a single Métro ticket to transfer as many times as needed to reach your final destination. Hold onto your ticket, though; inspections are relatively common and you could be ticketed for not having proof you paid. To transfer between buses or trams you must use a second ticket.
If you miss the last Métro, you can catch the Noctilien night bus (www.noctilien.fr), which runs 01:00-05:30 nightly. Buses depart from Châtelet, Montparnasse, and Gare du Nord, and travel the main thoroughfares within the city and into the suburbs. One bus per Noctilien line runs every hour. A Métro ticket also allows you to ride on the RER suburban trains within Paris city limits. To view Métro, bus, tramway, or RER itineraries, visit www.vianavigo.fr.
Co-Voiturage
Several ride-sharing organizaitons exist in France, but Co-Voiturage (www.covoiturage.fr) is the most popular. Sign up for free online, then get in touch with the driver offering up seats in his or her car. Recent fares include €23 to Brussels, €35 to Bordeaux, and €45 to London. Each driver’s profile includes details on such things as whether dogs or smoking is allowed in the vehicle, whether they’re chatty, or if they prefer to listen to music instead of your mediocre French. Drivers are also rated by previous passengers on their driving, timeliness, and friendliness.
Vélib’ (www.velib.paris.fr), a city-sponsored bicycle-hire service, allows anyone over the age of 14 to rent a bicycle from one of nearly 2,000 terminals throughout Paris and the close suburbs, and to conveniently drop your bike off at any station when you’re ready. Customers have the option to apply for a year’s subscription (€19-39, depending on the type of subscription) or a short-term abonnement. Make sure your bank or credit card has a microchip that meets EMV standards. Don’t have a card with a puce? Rent online and bypass that problem! A short-term subscription costs €1.70 for one day and €8 for seven days. This allows you to take the bicycle for free for the first half-hour, but costs €1 for the second half hour, €2 for the following half hour, and €4 for the third half hour. A deposit of €150 is pre-authorized from your card, but not withdrawn. When returning your bike to the terminal, ensure it is properly attached, and that the green “locked” light is indicated. Also keep all receipts, should you need to make any claims.
Autolib’
The newest public transportation system to hit Paris is the car-share program called Autolib’. Subscribing online (www.autolib.eu) for periods of a day, week, month, or year gives you access to a fleet of four-seat electric “Bluecars” stationed throughout Paris and the Île-de-France region. A valid driver’s license and international permit are required for non-EU drivers, and charges average €10 to €14 per hour. This option is best for short, one-way trips.
At Home in the City of Light
So you haven’t scored your Parisian pied-a-terre—yet. Until you find that perfect, permanent foothold here, you’ll need a temporary place to stay, right? Options abound, from camping grounds to rooms in private homes, to hostels and five-star hotels. Unlike London and some other major metropolises, Paris is an affordable hotel center, and generally, a couple can find a private room in a clean, comfy hotel for the same price you’d pay for two people at a hostel. Ever since the Gentle Gourmet B&B closed its doors (to focus on the vegan Gentle Gourmet café), there’s been a big void in the veg-friendly accommodations market, but here are a few options to kick start your search. Before settling on any one place, be sure to check TripAdvisor to avoid any unfortunate surprises.
TIP: In Paris zipcodes 75001 to 75020, the number of the arrondissement is indicated by the last two digits.
Air bnb
Rooms in private homes
Finding a private room in a vegetarian household is easy with Airbnb’s search filter. Just type “vegetarian” into the Keywords filter, and choose among dozens of possibilities in every neighwborhood and price range.
Accor Hotel Group
Hotel chain
From bare bones, dormitory-style (yet still private) rooms at rock-bottom prices to deluxe rooms with every variety of mod-con, you’ll find something to fit your budget within the Accor Hotel group. Rates begin at €39 at the two Paris locations of Formule 1 (Porte de Montmartre and Porte de Châtillon), which are intended for road travelers and found just off the Périphérique motorway that rings Paris. For something a bit more upscale, try a Mercure or Novotel. New under the Accor Hotel umbrella is Ibis (see below) and Ibis Styles.
Ibis
Hotel chain
The Ibis chain has expanded to include Ibis Styles—smart, business-style accommodations with free wifi and breakfast (BYOSM—Bring Your Own Soy Milk) included. Room rates begin at €61 at several locations throughout Paris, including Montmartre and République, and if you tick the boxes for the FI and Formule 1 hotels, you’ll find even more affordable rooms just outside the Périphérique.
Timhotel
Hotel chain
With several locations in Paris, this chain offers predictable comfort and style, free wifi, and tea/coffee makers in the rooms. Rates begin at around €70. Basic and clean.
Independent Accommodation
10th
Chambres de la Grande Porte
Vegetarian bed & breakfast
10 rue des Petites Ecuries
Cross street: rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis
06 63 42 35 32
Métro: Chateau d’Eau
www.chambresdelagrandeporte.fr
Rates at this vegetarian—yes, vegetarian!—B&B begin at €78 (low season rate). The hosts happily accommodate vegans, and dinner is also an option. The four guest rooms have showers, but toilets are shared. Also three apartments at the same location. The neighborhood is interesting, with lots of bars and proximity to veg-friendly restaurants, including Asian-vegetarian hotspot Végébowl (see pg. 117). English spoken.
Hotel Mistral
Independent hotel
3 Rue Chaligny
Cross street: rue Diderot
01 46 28 10 20
Métro: Reuilly-Diderot
Rooms start at €59 at this cute little hotel on a calm street in eastern Paris. Walking distance to the Gentle Gourmet and other Bastille-area veg restaurants, and just five minutes from Gare de Lyon and the bustling Marché d’Aligre.
18th
Parisian Days
Private residence
on rue Caulaincourt
Cross street: Lamarck
Métro: Lamarck-Caulaincourt
www.parisiandays.com
paul@parisiandays.com
Rent a bright, airy studio apartment from Paul, your friendly, bilingual host. The Montmartre neighborhood is quintessentially Parisian (read: lined with cafes and beautiful old trees). Paul also offers local tours that include jaunts to off-the-beaten-path neighborhoods.
20th
Mama Shelter
Independent hotel
109 rue de Bagnolet
Cross street: rue des Pyrénées
01 43 48 48 48
Métro: Alexandre Dumas or Porte de Bagnolet
Rates begin at €79 at this chic, Philippe Starck-designed hotel on the edge of eastern Paris. The on-site pizza restaurant (pg.210) is vegan-friendly, and the neighborhood offers an interesting demographic mix of old and new. Indie music venue Flèche d’Or is just across the street.
Boulogne-Billancourt
Chez Emoke
Room in private house
21 quai Alphonse le Gallo
Cross street: rue Gallieni (see map 16th, p.179)
01 41 31 01 49
Métro: Pont de Sèvres
In a quiet, Seine-side neighborhood just over the Périphérique in southern Paris, a vivacious Hungarian expat offers simple, private accommodations in her bright, modern apartment. The price is right at €40/55 (single/double), breakfast included. Let her know if you’re vegan! Nature lovers will appreciate the easy access to the beautiful Parc de Saint-Cloud just across the river.
How-to tips from a short-term rental specialist
Vegans and vegetarians, more than any other category of traveler, can really benefit from a vacation apartment rental. The luxury of a kitchen allows you to take advantage of Paris’s amazing outdoor markets brimming with fresh produce, and to prepare meat-free meals at home. And having a refrigerator at your disposal means cold soymilk and muesli is always on the morning menu. So, where does one begin when looking for a rental?
Gail Boisclair is here to help. She’s the owner of PerfectlyParis (www.perfectlyparis.info, also free apps for iPhone and Android), a company offering short-term Paris apartment rentals, specialising in Montmartre and surrounding neighborhoods. Condé Nast Traveler has named her their Top Villa Rental Specialist for Paris every year since 2008. These are her top tips for veggie visitors seeking a home away from home in the City of Light.
#1 Paris is a year-round destination, so book early – start looking at least 6 months in advance for your best choice. Other than January through March, November, and early December, finding something at the last minute can be very difficult.
#2 Size-wise, Paris is a small city with a very efficient transit system, so location may not be as important as you think. Pick a flat you would look forward to going home to at the end of your day and make sure it is close to a métro station.
#3 Ask the owner or rental agency for a list of nearby grocery stores, outdoor markets, and boulangeries. Apartments have the advantage of kitchens, so consider proximity to food shops where you can buy fresh produce to prepare veg meals. Eating one or two meals at home is a great money-saver, too.
#4 Avoid scams! Do NOT book if you are asked to pay by Western Union, MoneyGram, etc.) and confirm in advance that the agency you are renting from is reputable. Do searches on the internet and in travel forums to find out what people have to say about the company.
#5 Learn what to do in an emergency. Ask for a local contact in case something goes wrong or you need help.
Keep in mind that renting an apartment is not for everyone. Apartments have their own personalities and quirks – the 100-year-old parquet floors may creak, and there won’t be a front desk or concierge at your disposal. If you are a traveler who relies on them, a hotel may be a better alternative for you (although it would not have the same charm and you would not feel that you are living like a Parisian!).