www.urbanvegan.netV-Listers reveal their favorite Paris dining spots
Dynise Balcavage
Dynise, whose love affair with Paris began in high school, lives in Philadelphia, but visits the French capital regularly—twice as a as a special guest speaker at Paris Vegan Day. Her latest cookbook, Pies and Tarts with Heart, has already got mouths salivating from Canada to the Côte d’Azur.
My favorite veg table in Paris is Loving Hut (11th, pg. 145). Cities all over the world house their own Loving Huts; they border on being vegan clichés and vary in quality from “meh” to “oh là là!” Paris’s Loving Hut definitely falls into the latter category. I especially adore their potage au potiron (pumpkin soup) – so comforting on a chilly autumn evening. Ultra-creamy, made with a coconut base and fragrant, subtle spices, it warms you down to your soul. It tastes as if it came straight from grandma’s kitchen. In the event that you are missing the taste of dairy cheese, the Loving Hut’s vegan cheese board is frighteningly reminiscent of cow’s cheese, and is reasonably priced. And if you are craving a well-made breakfast café au lait, this is also the place to go. Both its decor and service are sunny and cheerful.
David Ivar aka Yaya Herman Dune/Black Yaya
Black Yaya is the latest musical incarnation of Paris-based musician David Ivar. He regularly tours the world playing stadium-size music festivals and intimate venues alike. His newest single Paint a Smile On Me was released on Partyfine records in late 2013.
I’m vegan and my favorite veg tables in Paris are:
Loving Hut (11th, pg. 145) Entirely vegan. Delicious and great service.
L’As Du Fallafel (4th, pg. 85) The best falafel In the world, Holy Land Included.
Chez Taéko Traiteur japonais at the Marché des Enfants Rouges (3rd, pg. 32) The agedashi tofu is the only vegan dish offered, but it so good that it’s worth it.
La Bricciola (14 rue Normandie, 3rd) The Marinara pizza is a great classic vegan option at this pizzeria with great service and awesome wine.
Flip Grater
Kiwi musician Flip spends half the year writing, performing, and eating (and drinking) in Paris, and the other half doing the same in her Antipodean hometown. Her latest book The Cookbook Tour: Europe--Adventures in Food and Music is available through Bateman Publishing.
On a payday I love Septime (80 rue de Charonne, 11th). It’s a wonderful fine Italian restaurant that does a vegetarian or vegan dégustation menu upon request—even without prior notice if you smile sweetly at the Italian waiters. Favourite dish: Braised white asparagus with crispy fried garlic flakes and coriander leaves.
On the cheaper end of the scale there’s Rouleau de Printemps (20th, pg. 210), my favourite Vietnamese spot. It has about six crammed-in tables and is always hot and busy but it has a full vegetarian menu and the food is truly good. Favourite dish: rice noodle salad with fresh mint, carrot, lettuce and coriander with sweet soy dressing, sour chilli sauce and a cold beer.
Carole Raphaelle Davis
Carole is an animal-rights activist, vegan and the author of The Diary of Jinky: Dog of a Hollywood Wife. She divides her time between LA and Nice, France, where she performs, writes and cooks.
L’Arpège (7th, pg. 106) is THE place to dine veggie in Paris. Finally--haute cuisine that’s ethical! Passard, the chef, is a genius. Being a French woman, I like dressing up and participating in the aesthetic scene to match the elegance of the food. I hope l’Arpège opens the door for vegan haute cuisine in every city in France. Dining out doesn’t get more refined than this. Passard lifts veganism to a level of high art in a uniquely French way and proves that French cuisine can be the best in the world without harming our friends, the animals.
Dan Mathews
Dan is more than just the Vice-President of People for the Ethical Treatement of Animals, he’s also a talented writer whose laugh-out-loud funny autobiography, Committed: A Rabble-Rouser’s Memoir, should be on every animal-lover’s reading list.
Good food in Paris means a lot to me as I usually enjoy it after a day or two in jail following an exciting PETA protest. Parisian jails don’t cater to vegans so when I’m set free I rush directly to Le Potager du Marais (3rd, pg. 70). The celery root bisque is magnifique, as is the seitan with mushroom-cognac sauce, even though I don’t usually like mushrooms.
This candlelit hotspot has special meaning because it is where John Galliano invited me to dinner to say that part of his rehab involved working with animals to learn empathy, and as part of his sobriety he started eating vegan. This former PETA target is now a friend. Now, instead of going to jail after disrupting a Galliano fur and leather show, the two of us talk animal rights over a gourmet vegan dinner.
Adam Turner aka Beat Assailant
Twitter.com/beatassailant
Facebook.com//pages/Beat-Assailant/54837965443
Paris-based hip-hop artist Beat Assailant has been making dance-worthy, jazz-influenced music for more than a decade, and continues to dazzle audiences around the world with his energetic live performances. His fifth studio album City Never Sleeps was released in May 2014.
It was difficult for me to choose my favorite veggie spot in Paris and that’s proof that the City of Light has come a long way. When I first moved to Paris over 10 years ago, I had to cook almost all of my meals at home. Never in my wildest dreams did I think there would ever be a place like East Side Burgers (11th, pg. 141) in Paris. With a rotating menu that offers two different burger choices daily, fries to die for, vegan hot dogs, nuggets, and even vegan desserts, this 100-percent vegetarian fast food restaurant is a must visit! Everything’s great here, but I always order the “Forestier” burger with lettuce, mushroom-tofu steak, caramelized onions, and tomato. And don’t forget to order an extra side of fries. I think I already mentioned they’re to die for!
Ana Homayoun
Ana, a San Francisco-based educator, lifestyle coach, vegan, and author, began traveling regularly to Paris after college and returns for fun and inspiration. Her latest book, The Myth of The Perfect Girl: Helping Our Daughters Find Authentic Success and Happiness in School and Life, has been hailed by teen girls and moms alike.
When I am in Paris, I generally stay in an apartment in Le Marais. I spend the early morning hours writing at my kitchen table and then head over to Rose Bakery for lunch (3rd, pg. 74).
Though there are several locations throughout the city, I love the spot in the Marais the best. The interior is casual and unpretentious, and those who sit in the front room can watch the baked goods being created right before their eyes.
Although Rose Bakery isn’t strictly vegan, they offer quite a few vegan, gluten-free and organic options. I typically order the assorted salad plate of the day, and simply ask them to make sure to only include vegan salads on my plate (there are usually quite a few delicious choices). Sometimes, I also treat myself to the vegan soup option, and a pot of green tea.
They also have organic produce available for purchase, so in the summer I usually pick up a melon or some peaches for later in the day.
One of my favorite side notes: the tables are lined with butcher block paper, and more than once I’ve used the paper to start outlining a new writing idea that spontaneously came to me in the middle of lunch.
Mark loves the adventure of travel. He is the author of Bleating Hearts: The Hidden World of Animal Suffering and Striking at the Roots: A Practical Guide to Animal Activism. You’ll find him tweeting @markhawthorne.
If there’s one thing I appreciate while traveling it’s finding delicious vegan food, so I was delighted when my wife and I discovered the Gentle Gourmet Cafe (12th, pg. 152) near la Bastille. The atmosphere may be upscale, but the staff is friendly, efficient, and amiably bilingual. A cozy indoor/outdoor area makes for splendid sidewalk dining no matter what the weather. Couple this with the cafe’s extensive menu and you’ve got the perfect place to linger over breakfast, lunch, or dinner while watching the city go by. I’m particularly fond of the baguette brimming with vegan ham and cheese. Do save room for dessert—you will not be disappointed when you tuck into some of the most mouthwatering sweets Paris has to offer.
Navigating the Cornucopia of Dining Options
The café still rules the French dining scene, but there are other options. Seek out these dining possibilities when a veg restaurant isn’t an option.
Chinois (Chinese) Traiteurs
These Asian delicatessens are ubiquitous in big cities and bigger towns throughout France, and usually offer at least one or two cheap, filling, vegan options. Most all are set up the same way: long glass counter full of pre-cooked Asian plates, which are microwaved before serving. Look for nem aux legumes (vegetable spring rolls), nouilles aux legumes (noodles with vegetables), and stir-fried vegetables with rice. Desserts like perles de coco are more often than not vegan. Wine is also generally served here. Expect to be asked “Pour emporter?” which means “To go?” If you want to dine in, say “pour ici” (for here).
French Brasseries
This is the most typical kind of restaurant you’ll find in France, and for a long time, they were veritable wastelands for vegetarians and especially vegans. Today, you’ll always be able to find at least a salad, bread, and fries to make a meal out of, and sometimes they’ll surprise you by offering a pasta dish that’s vegan. Look for salade composée (where ingredients are arranged beautifully on a plate rather than mixed together), and if you don’t see one marked “vegetarian,” ask if they can make you one sans oeuf (without egg), sans fromage (without cheese), and sans viande (without meat). Creamy-looking salad dressings are often (surprisingly) dairy-free and made from emulsified mustard, oil, and vinegar, but to play it safe, you may want to ask for huile et vinaigre (oil and vinegar).
Indian/Sri Lankan
You’ll find south Asian eateries throughout France, but these can be a little trickier for vegans since milk products are generally an integral part of the cuisine. Steer away from naan, which is often made with milk, and stick with other breads like chapatti or paratha. Dishes typically made without dairy include aloo gobi (potato and cauliflower curry) and benghan bartha (eggplant). South Indian and Sri Lankan restaurants generally offer good snacking opportunities, with treats like bonda (battered and fried potato balls), vada (savory donuts), and dosas (thin crepes). Fortunately, you’ll find Indians are likely bilingual in English, which makes choosing meat- and dairy-free meals easier.
Italian restaurants will become your go-to favorites for reliable sources of veg meals. Vegans can ask for your vegetarian pizza sans fromage, and pair it with an insalata mista (mixed-greens salad) and a pichet of Italian wine for a filling, tasty meal. Pasta dishes that are typically vegetarian include pasta aglio e olio (garlic and olive oil) or pomodoro (tomato and garlic). The odds are good that the lemon sorbet is vegan, too. To mimic the fatty richness of cheese, you might ask for “huile pimentée” to drizzle over your pie or pasta.
Japonais (Japanese)
Japanese restaurants are becoming increasingly popular throughout France, and offer some interesting dining possibilities for vegans. Generally, miso soup is made with dashi, a fish stock, but salad d’algue (seaweed salad), salad de choux (marinated cabbage salad) maki de concombre (cucumber rolls), and maki d’avocat (avocado rolls) are made without fish. Note that a recent phenomenon in French-made Japanese cuisine is the addition of cheese to sushi rolls. Really. French chains with vegetarian options include Sushi Shop and Planet Sushi.
Libanais (Lebanese)
These ubiquitous establishments usually have a fast-food vibe, and prices to match. At Lebanese restaurants, you’ll always have the possibility of eating falafel, or a vegetable plate (plat végétarien) that generally includes hummus, stuffed vine leaves, tabouli salad, and pita bread. Watch out for some of the olive-based spreads, which sometimes contain anchovy. Spinach pies are generally vegan. Ask!
North African (Moroccan, Tunisian, and Algerian)
Traditional couscous végétarien and tajine végétarien are easy-to-find options, and at North African bakeries, a delicious snack called m’semmen—a semolina crepe stuffed with tomatoes and peppers, with a spicy kick—is a tasty vegan option. Kesra, an unleavened semolina galette—is another tasty treat to try. Brik is a phyllo-style pastry sometimes served stuffed with vegetables.
Restaurant Chains
You’re starving, can’t find a map, and if you don’t eat tout de suite, your blood sugar will plummet to badmood-inducing levels. Stop, take a look around, and see if you can spot any one of these restaurant chains sprinkled throughout Paris that offer at least one or two substantial veg dishes.
Cojean
Salads, wheat grass juice, and other freshly prepared items served in a modern, fast-casual environment. Soups are vegan, and include crazy concoctions like wasabi-pea. More than a dozen locations throughout Paris, most clustered in the 8th arrondissement, but also near the organic Raspail market (in the 6th) and near the Louvre.
Indiana Café
This TexMex chain offers more than a dozen locations scattered throughout Paris in prime shopping/sightseeing hubs including Pigalle (near the Moulin Rouge), République, and Denfert-Rochereau (if you’re headed to the Catacombs). Unlike many chains, they’re open every day and offer service continu dining service. Look for the vegetarian section of the menu, and vegans should ask for anything that looks interesting to be made “sans fromage.” (“without cheese”)
Le Pain Quotidien
Choose among gorgeous salads, soups, and breads that form a filling, hearty meal. Vegetarian dishes marked with a (V), and most are already vegan or can be made vegan. Nice atmosphere, with communal tables and a rustic vibe.
Le Paradis du Fruit
A pleasant place to eat if you want something light and want to enjoy it while sitting in a chic, touristy environment. A few vegan options include quinoa and vegetables, gazpacho, and soymilk smoothies. Cocktails, beer and wine served, too. A dozen locations throughout Paris, including near the Champs Elysées, Les Halles, and Montparnasse.
You’ll always find a vegan soup of the day, served with delicious whole-meal bread (or more pedestrian white if you prefer), plus a variety of salads, sandwiches, and drinks that are suitable for vegans.
Starbucks
If you can’t live without your morning or afternoon pick-me-up, Starbucks offers soy lattes at around 40 locations throughout Paris, including rue de Rivoli (several locations), the Champs Elysées, Pigalle, and Gare Saint-Lazare.
Subway
There are more than 60 of these fast-food sandwich shops scattered throughout the French capital, and they’re easy to find if you follow the distinct scent of baking bread to the nearest green storefront. All outlets offer a vegan option with vegetables on Italian-style bread, and many offer a vegetarian “steak” that can be turned into a sandwich or a salad topping.
