The onzième is one Paris neighborhood that’s undergone some serious changes in the last decade.
Home to the city’s major woodworking industry throughout the Middle Ages and into the Renaissance era, those ancient ateliers (workshops) have been reclaimed and turned into artists’ live-work spaces.
Once an affordable neighborhood, the 11th is officially bobo (bourgeois bohemian) ground zero, which means plenty of hipster restaurants, kid-friendly parks, upscale boulangeries, and spendy boutiques.
Some parts of the arrondissement are still a bit rough around the edges; you see this in the Oberkampf neighborhood, where bars, graffiti, and some of the city’s best vegetarian food options reign.
Neighborhood favorite
East Side Burgers
Vegetarian
60 blvd Voltaire
Cross street: Richard Lenoir
Métro: Saint-Ambroise
Tu-Th 12.00-18.00, F-Sa 12.00-20.00; Su-M closed. Closed most of August.
New York culture has invaded Paris, and nowhere is this more evident than at East Side Burgers, a “Brooklyn style” burger bar with the best meatless burgers in town.
Try the Popeye with—you guessed it—spinach (€5.95) or the Forestier, with mushrooms (€5.95). All burgers can be made with vegan cheese on request.
Vegan hot dogs (€3.60), quiches, cookies, and even vegan cheesecake available.
Frites or coleslaw are an extra €2.50, or you can get them as part of the daily lunch special, along with a drink (€9).
Downstairs dining room and a few seats on the terrace, or take your order for emporter (to-go). Credit cards accepted.
Neighborhood favorite
La Cucina di Terresa
Vegetarian restaurant at home
rue Voltaire/Private residence
Cross street: blvd Voltaire
Métro: rue des Boulets
Hours vary
lacucinaditerresa@gmail.com
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When you dine chez Terresa, you experience a truly unique culinary adventure. At her table d’hôte, you are more than just a client being served a delectable organic meal; you are her friends for the evening, and she prepares each plate with the same love and care that she would her nearest and dearest.
Each ingredient selected is exquisite—from the organic vegetables and artisan grains right down to the fleur de sel and freshly picked herbs and spices. You really taste the difference in Terresa’s cooking, which she has perfected into an art form. Vegan and gluten-free meals always available, and diners have the choice of dining at her home or having Terresa prepare a meal for you in the kitchen of your choosing. A not-to-be missed Parisian experience.
Menus vary according to season but might include an entrée of bruschetta with chard and roast garlic; a main plate of farinata (savory chickpea cake) with seasonal vegetables and Italian olive oil; a green tomato tart with fresh herbs; and almond blancmange with rhubarb and citrus.
Cash only. See also pg. 34, 44, 215.
Vegan Chinese & fusion fast food
92 blvd Beaumarchais
Cross street: rue Saint-Claude
01 48 06 43 84
Métro: Saint-Sébastian Froissart
M-Sa 12.00-15.00 and 19.00-22.30; Su closed. Closed most of August.
This amazing chain does so much for the local vegan community, including doling out generous free samples at Paris Vegan Day, VegFest Paris, and other veg festivals. They put the “Loving” in Loving Hut!
Entrées include spring rolls (€7), samosas (€6.50) and salads (€6.50-9.50).
Main plates are tasty and filling, especially the mushroom crêpe (€14.50) with side salad, and the vermicelli noodles with fake meat, vegetables, and deep-friend eggless egg-rolls (€15).
Desserts range from banana splits to cheesecakes.
No alcohol, but tea or coffee with soymilk, near-beer, and fruit juices are available.
Small épicerie inside where you can buy vegan pâté and mayonnaise, Vegusto cheeses, cook books, frozen croissants and vegan pain au chocolat.
Credit cards accepted.
Vegetarian fusion
20 rue de la Pierre Levée
Cross street: rue de la Fontaine au Roi
01 48 06 33 02
Métro: Goncourt or République
F 12.00-15.30, 19.00-23.00; Sa 11.00-23.00, Su 11.00-16.30
Vegetarians with food allergies adore this earthy, light-filled restaurant near Canal St. Martin. Big communal tables, a resident cat, and all-you-can-drink herb tea make for a home-away-from home feel, but it’s the wholesome food that keeps people coming back for more.
Giant Mediterranean mezze plates (€17.50) are always vegan and always filling, as are rich stews, and wholesome grains, soups and breads.
For a stuff-your-face feast, make a reservation for the €25 Sunday brunch buffet.
Dog-friendly. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous Cambodian restaurant
96 rue Saint-Maur
Cross street: Oberkampf
01 43 38 61 38
Métro: Rue Saint-Maur or Parmentier
M-F 12.00-15.30 and 19.30-23.30; Sa-Su closed
This is healthy Cambodian food, meaning no added oil, no gluten, and plenty of fresh ingredients.
Herbivores can choose among tofu or vegetable sandwiches (€6.90), soups, salads and main plates (€6.70) composed of noodles, seasonal vegetables, and fragrant herbs like lemongrass and tamarind, and snacks such as spring rolls and sticky rice with banana.
Daily menus (€8-13.10) with entrée, plat, and dessert are a possibility, and beer and a few vegan desserts are also on the menu.
Seating is extremely limited, but to-go orders are a popular option. Credit cards accepted.
Ave Maria
Omnivorous fusion
1 Rue Jacquard
Cross street: Parmentier
01 47 00 61 73
Métro: Parmentier
M-Su 19.00-01.30
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This festive little spot near the Oberkampf nightlife hub offers everyone who enters the chance to wash away worries with a tropical drink and huge portions of food inspired from the warmer spots on the planet. Vintage photos, piñatas, and colorful art hang from every spare inch inside the small dining room, which gets noisier as the evening progresses.
Main dishes range from €17-22 and include Voyage à Madras, eggplant stuffed with tomato, chickpeas, grains, caramelized onions, and Indian spices (vegans should ask for it sans fromage). The Empadao de Palmita is a huge wedge of savory pie served with a generous side salad.
Expect loud music, exotic cocktails that you can order by the pichet (small pitcher) or jumbo-sized litres, plus beer (€3-5), wine, and soft drinks.
The perfect spot to get revved up before a night out on the town. Terrace seating. Cash only.
Omnivorous healthy
33 rue de Charonne
Cross street: Ledru-Rollin
01 43 57 53 79
Métro: Ledru Rollin
M-Sa 12.00-15.00 and 18.30-22.30; Su closed.
Closed most of August
If you ever wondered how Parisians stay so slim, you’ll find the answer to that riddle here. It’s soup, soup, and more soup—filling and nourishing, yet light on calories. Six soothing varieties are prepared each morning at this friendly spot, using vegetables and fruits that are fresh and in season. Vegetarian possibilities run the gamut from crème of carrot with coconut milk to fresh peas with mint to lentil with Indian spices to “bloody Mary” gazpacho.
The daily lunch special (€10.40) includes a bowl of soup and bread, salad or dessert, and a glass of wine, coffee, or iced tea.
If you prefer to take your soup to-go, you can choose between small, medium, or large sizes (€3.70-5.90).
Credit cards accepted.
Culinary Messengers: Le Comptoir Japonais
Omnivorous Japanese restaurant
3 rue Ternaux
Cross street: Oberkampf
06 10 24 06 53
Métro: Parmentier
M-Su 11.00-21.00
An intimate restaurant serving deliciously modern takes on traditional Japanese cuisine.
Vegetarian plat du jour or vegan bento (€12.50) includes rice and perfectly cooked vegetables. The soupe du jour is €5.80 for two people.
Yummy vegan tofu cheesecake (€3.50) is made by master chef Valérie, who lived in Japan for 20 years and knows her way around both sweets and healthy Japanese food. A pleasant spot in a hip part of town.
Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous Vietnamese restaurant
49 rue Godefroy Cavaignac
Cross street: Ledru Rollin
01 44 93 00 08
Métro: Voltaire
M-Sa 11.30-17.00 and 17.30-22.30; Su closed
A hole-in-the-wall Vietnamese joint with friendly service and a small but tasty veg menu. It works best if you tell the woman behind the counter that you’re vegetarian, and let her serve you. It’s guaranteed to taste good, as the constant coming-and-going of to-go customers can attest.
Try the bo bun (€10) or rice with tofu and vegetables; the nem au légumes are tasty, too.
Vietnamese desserts, beer, and tea available.
Cash only.
La Tête dans la Cuisine
Omnivorous healthy
29 rue Jean-Pierre-Timbaud
Cross street: boulevard Richard Lenoir
01 43 55 04 20
Métro Oberkampf or Parmentier
M-Sa 10.00-16.00, Su closed
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Daily menus (€7-11) at this small, casual eatery allow you to choose among interesting salads, soups, quiches, and savory tarts.
The à la carte menu includes bagels (€6) and a variety of desserts, including tapioca with coconut milk.
Beer (€3) and wine (€3.50) and soft drinks available.
Kid-friendly. Credit cards accepted.
Ethiopia
Omnivorous Ethiopian
89 rue du Chemin Vert
Cross street: rue Pétion
01 49 29 99 68
Métro: Voltaire or Père Lachaise T-Su 12.30-16.00, 19.00-
00.30; M closed
Service is warm and welcoming and the food is tasty at this longtime neighborhood favorite.
The vegetarian platter (€38 for two) is loaded with an assortment of veggies including spiced green beans, salad, lentils, and spinach. A la carte options (€5-8.50) exist too, in case you just want a heaping helping of spiced split peas instead of the full monty.
Desserts are limited to fruit salad (€6) and non-vegan ice creams.
Washed it all down with the gingery house cocktail (€5) or tropical fruit juice (€3).
Credit cards accepted.
Norbulinga
Omnivorous Tibetan restaurant
118 rue Amelot
Cross street: rue de Crussol
01 47 00 90 18
Métro: Oberkampf or Filles du Calvaire
M-Sa 12.00-14.00 and 19.00-23.00; Su closed
You’ll feel at home in this welcoming Nepalese/Tibetan restaurant, with its exposed stone walls and prominent photos of the Dalai Lama on display.
A fixed price menu (€19) is one of many possibilities. À la carte momo, noodle dishes, savory crepes, and soups are other possibilities.
Beer and wine served. Credit cards accepted.
Thank You, My Deer
Omnivorous gluten-free cafe
112 rue Saint-Maur
Cross street: rue Oberkampf
01 71 93 16 24
Métro: Parmentier or Rue Saint-Maur
Tu & F 10.00-18.00, W-Th 08.00-18.00, Sa-Su 12.00-18.00
www.thankyoumydeer.com
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Jana and Sonia, two twenty-something Slovakians who met at business school in Paris back in 2006, filled a neighborhood niche when they launched Thank You, My Deer in April 2013. Bright and cheerful, the tiny gluten-free café in the trendy Oberkampf neighborhood serves supercharged coffee, muffins (€3.50), cakes, salads (€9) and sandwiches (€7.50).
Homemade hummus, veg pâté, and super-trendy kale salad sometimes make an appearance on the menu.
Kid-friendly. Terrace seating. Dog-friendly. Credit cards accepted.
Like many Parisian neighborhoods, the 12th is a blend of old and new architecture, and young and old populations. Butting up to the famous Bastille landmark on one end, it hugs the Seine straight to the edge of the city, where it give way to the beautiful forest known as the bois de Vincennes.
Classical theater and opera lovers come to the 12th to catch live performances at the Bastille opera house, while film aficionados flock to the Cinématheque for films and colloid-oriented art exhibitions.
Whatever your reasons are for hitting the 12th, you’re never too far from a good vegetarian meal.
Neighborhood Favorite
The Gentle Gourmet Café
Vegan French
24 Boulevard de la Bastille
Cross street: rue Jules César
01 43 43 48 49
Métro: Bastille
M-Su 09.00-23.00
The Franco-American Brown-Pivain family made a big splash in 2009 when it launched Paris’s first-ever vegan B&B and founded the city’s biggest vegan celebration, Paris Vegan Day. In 2012, the B&B closed, but the brand still expanded with the Gentle Gourmet Café, where newcomers and repeat customers alike are enticed by warm-from-the-oven croissants, meat-free burgers, and tempting sweets based on traditional French recipes.
Raw lasagna with cashew cream (€14), savory pie with mushrooms and cabbage (€17) and seitan with fig reduction sauce and garlic polenta (€22) are some of the enticing possibilities.
Expect bi-lingual service (French-English) and delicious desserts like tarte tatin (€7) and raspberry tart (€7). The only thing missing here is a license to serve alcohol, but BYOB is welcomed. Kid-friendly. Terrace seating. Dog-friendly. Credit cards accepted
Omnivorous store
86 rue du Faubourg St. Antoine
Cross street: Ledru Rollin
Métro: Ledru Rollin
M-Sa 10.00-20.00; closed Sundays
This Dutch Target-like chain is a new arrival on the Paris shopping scene, and one of best spots in town to stock up on convenience foods like that hard-to-procure-in-Paris favorite, peanut butter. Dried fruit-and-nut blends, chocolate-covered pretzels, potato chips, and other health-food antitheses beckon from the shelves, as do incredible cheap household items like plates, napkins, and candles. Other outlets include Gare St. Lazare, Gare du Nord, and Les Halles.
Credit cards accepted.
La Ruche à Miel
Omnivorous Algerian restaurant/tea shop
19 rue d’Aligre
Cross street: rue Crozatier
01 43 41 27 10
Métro: Ledru-Rollin
Tu-Sa 9.00-19.00, Su 9.00-18.00; M closed
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This permanent cafe and tea shop in the heart of one of the liveliest market streets is an unexpected veg oasis. Stop in for delicious North African snacks, including m’semmen (vegan crepes stuffed with peppers and tomatoes; ask them to heat it up) and the crunchy semolina bread called kesra. Mint tea and sticky sweets (most made with honey, but ask to confirm) are other possibilities. Try the garlic-infused kesra (€1.50) for a memorable snack, or go for the vegetarian (actually vegan) couscous lunch for €10.90 (or €12 at dinner).
Terrace seats. Credit cards accepted.
Paya Thai
Omnivorous Thai
30 rue d’Aligre
Cross street: rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine
09 50 96 10 00
Métro: Ledru Rollin
Tu-Su 12.00-14.30 and 19.00-22.30; M closed
In the thick of the Marché d’Aligre is this friendly Thai restaurant with a good selection of veg dishes, including soups and curries.
The tom kha (€10.50) tastes of lemongrass and kaffir lime leaves—in other words, really good. Old standbys pad Thai with tofu (€12.50) and pad pak (fried vegetables with tofu) are well-prepared here. Portions are on the small side, but the flavors compensate.
Sticky rice with mango and coconut milk is a must for dessert.
Beer, wine and soft drinks available, plus coconut juice and other tropical drinks.
Credit cards accepted.
Rose Bakery Culture
Omnivorous French-English fusion
10 blvd de la Bastille (inside La Maison Rouge Fondation Antoine de Galbert)
Cross street: rue de Bercy
01 46 28 21 14
Métro: quai de la Rapée
W-Su 11.00-19.00; Th 11.00-21.00; M-Tu closed
This cute, casual spot inside the Maison Rouge contemporary art space is a dependable stop for mostly-organic sweet and savory snacks and more substantial lunch plates.
Soups, salads, risottos, and tarts are the Rose Bakery hallmarks, and that’s no different here, but the difference is the access to modern art, music, and other cultural events. The decor changes every three months, as do the Maison Rouge’s art exhibits, but one thing that remains constant is the quality of the food.
If you don’t want to make the two-block walk up the street to the Gentle Gourmet, you might feel OK about shelling out €17 for the vegan salad plate.
Kid-friendly. Credit cards accepted.
Also in the 3rd (pg.74) and 9th (pg.126).
L’Adelita
Omnivorous Mexican
73 rue Crozatier
Cross street: rue d’Aligre
01 46 28 79 68
Métro: Ledru Rollin or Faidherbe Chaligny
Tu-Sa 12.00-15.00 and 19.00-22.00; M 12.00-15.00; Su closed
Nopales, mushrooms, rice, beans, guacamole and salsa are used in many tasty combinations at this cheap and cheerful spot. Friendly service, and nice sidewalk tables for warm days.
Veg entrées (€5) cover the usual bases: guacamole, nachos, and quesadillas, while main plates (€3-8.50) include burritos, tacos, and campechanas, which are tortillas stuffed with cactus, spinach, tomatoes, onions, and corn.
Mexican beer, margaritas (€5) and other drinks available.
Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous pizza
23 Rue d’Aligre
Cross street: rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine
01 43 43 47 07
Métro: Ledru Rollin
Tu-Su 12.00-15.00 and 19.00-23.00; M closed
Just like its other three locations throughout Paris (in the 3rd, 10th and 18th), this Pink Flamingo branch offers organic pizzas that are easily veganized on request.
The Aphrodite pie already has hummus instead of tomato sauce, plus grilled eggplant (€13), and the Gandhi is topped with baba ganoush and spinach (€13).
Beer, wine and other drinks for to-go and eat-in orders. €1 discount for takeaway. Credit cards accepted.
Raimo
Omnivorous ice-cream parlor
59-61 blvd de Reuilly
Cross Street: rue de Picpus
01 43 43 70 17
Métro: Daumesnil
M-Su 11.00-22.00
Dairy-free sorbets (some are made with soymilk) hit the spot on hot summer days, and Raimo’s five Paris locations make it easy to get your fix. Try the Cacao (chocolate) flavor for an off-the-charts-delicious chocolately experience, or, for something a little less conventional, try the citron-basilic (lemon-basil) or noix de coco (coconut) flavors. €3 for a single scoop, or two scoops for €5.
Credit cards accepted.
Marché d’Aligre
Street and covered market
place d’Aligre
Métro: Ledru Rollin
Tu-F 9.00-13.00 and 16.00-19.30; Sa 900-13.00 and 15.30-19.30; Su 9.00-13.30; M closed
This Tuesday-though-Sunday market melds the best of two worlds: Fleamarket goodies and food! The festive ambience draws crowds all year ’round, and thanks to several nearby youth hostels, the vibe is young and international. Stock up on organic tomatoes, tropical fruits, and secondhand treasures, and visit the permanent shops for staples like fresh tofu and rustic breads.
This oft-overlooked arrondissement is a study in contrasts: on the northern end, you’ve got modern-industrial urban renewal, with cinemas, shopping centers, and tall buildings in steel and glass; on the southern end, you’ve got Paris’s largest Asian community tucked amid 1970s towerblocks.
At the modern bibliothèque (library) Marguerite Durand, named in honor of the French feminist, you can browse an impressive collection of manuscripts, postcards, and works by celebrated women writers and artists, including Colette, Sarah Bernhardt and George Sand. At the nearby 14-screen MK2 cineplex, you can take in a movie and have a drink at the cinema’s bar afterward, then dance ’til dawn at Wanderlust or catch a musical performance at the Batobar, a floating nightlife spot right on the Seine.
Nearby museums include the small but interesting Museum of Sports, where you ogle wooden bicycles, watch short films, and buy beautiful vintage-reproduction posters at reasonable prices.
Neighborhood favorite
MOB
Vegan fast food restaurant
34 Quai d’Austerlitz
Cross street: pont Charles de Gaulle
01 42 77 51 05
Métro: Gare d’Austerlitz
M-Su 12.00-00.00
This Brooklyn-style burger bar moved from its original location in Paris’s trendy Northern Marais district to this bright, open space at Wanderlust, the city’s hottest arts and entertainment venue, which also happens to contain the city’s fashion and design school.
What a difference a change of place makes! The food got an upgrade along with a design makeover, and now, it’s nothing but delicious burgers (€4.00-8.50), perfectly cooked fries (€1.50-2.50), American-style hot-dogs (€8), delicious dairy-free cheesecakes (€5), and the oddly intriguing “corn soup with popcorn” (€5). Burgers are messy and tasty, and come with no-bun options for people watching their carb intake.
Credit cards accepted.
Vegan Asian restaurant & grocer
20 rue Nationale
Cross street: blvd Massena
01 45 82 99 54
Métro: Porte d’Ivry or Olympiades
M-Su 11.00-15.00 and 18.30-10.30
Sometimes, you just really need a steaming plate of perfectly cooked noodles with Chinese greens, which is when you want to make a detour toward Green Garden, smack in the heart of Paris’s Chinatown.
Gai lan (a sort of Chinese spinach) with noodles (€8.50) is savory and nourishing, while the faux-chicken brochettes over rice hit the spot when you crave something fake-meaty. Bo bun (€7), steamed dumplings (€4), and a variety of soups keep it interesting.
No alcohol, but they offer soymilk (€2.80), juices, tea, and no-alcohol spelt beer.
The restaurant also has a little épicerie section where you can buy frozen fake meats—ham, shrimp, crab—and other vegan goodies.
Credit cards accepted.
Exki (13th)
Omnivorous healthy
116 Avenue de France
Cross street: rue de Tolbiac
01 57 27 01 25
Métro: Bibliothèque François Mitterand
M 08.00-21.30, Tu-F 08.00-22.30, Sa 12.00-21.00, Su closed
This Belgian chain has several Paris locations, including this open, airy spot in the 13th.
Gluten-free options are labeled “SG” and vegetarian options are clearly marked “vege”; vegans will want to look out for (and steer clear of) words like fromage (cheese), miel (honey), chèvre (goat cheese), and yaourt (yogurt).
Hot mains (€3.40-7.95) include savory pies and plates full of seasoned grains or pasta with vegetables. Soups (€3.95) are almost always vegan and come with optional bread, croutons, or crackers. Salads (€1.50-5.70) are varied and flavorful, and there’s also a choice of two or three vegetarian sandwiches and focaccia breads.
Desserts, wine, soft drinks, and teas available.
Lunch formule (€8.50) includes a salad, sandwich, and drink.
Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous pizza
136 blvd Vincent Auriol
Cross street: rue Nationale
09 83 88 38 23
Métro: Nationale
Tu-Sa 12.00-14.30 and 19.00-22.30; Su-M closed
This pizza restaurant promises eco-friendly everything, from the organic flour and recycled to-go containers to the electric motorbikes used for deliveries.
Lunch menus from €13.90 to €19.90 include soup or salad, pizza and dessert. Several vegetarian pizzas, all of which can be veganized. Salads and soups are usually vegan.
Beer and organic bottled juices round out the drinks menu. Like this location, a sister location in the 15th also delivers hot pies to your door. Credit cards accepted
Nuba
Omnivorous fusion
36 Quai d’Austerlitz
Cross street: Pont Charles de Gaulle
01 76 77 34 85
Métro: Gare d’Austerlitz
Tu-Sa 12.00-15.00 and 19.00-23.00, Su 12.00-17.00, M closed
Part night-club, part meditation garden, part restaurant, this hip space juggles three chefs (French, Swedish and Japanese) who turn out interesting menus to please a variety of palates.
Vegan bento boxes (€15), inventive desserts like strawberry gazpacho (€7) or roasted pineapple tarte (€7) are some of the treats vegans have to look forward to.
Try to arrive before 20.00, when the crowds begin to descend. Credit cards accepted.
Thien-Heng
Omnivorous Vietnamese take-away
50 avenue d’Ivry
Cross Street: rue du Disque
01 45 82 92
Métro: Porte d’Ivry
M-Sa 08.30-19.00; Su closed
The main thing going at this tiny takeaway spot in front of Tang Frères supermarket is the banh-mi, a traditional and very tasty Vietnamese sandwich. Thien-Heng’s vegan version comes with tofu, grated carrot, cucumber, cilantro (coriander), and optional jalapeno peppers.
Sandwiches (€2.30) are seasoned with the tamari-like Maggi sauce, with mayonnaise as an option; remember to say “pas de mayonnaise, s’il vous plaît” to be sure your sandwich isn’t accidentally slathered with it. No possibility of eat in, but you can take your sandwich to the rooftop terrace plaza behind the restaurant and enjoy your tasty meal in the sun.
A sister shop a block away (58 rue de Choisy) serves the same sandwich, plus a few other vegan items, like samosas (€1) and seasoned rice balls. The service, however, isn’t nearly as friendly at this location.
Credit cards accepted.
Tang Frères
Asian supermarket
48 ave d’Ivry
Cross Street: blvd Massena
01 49 60 56 78
Métro: Porte d’Ivry
Tu-Sa 9.00-19.00; Su 9.00-13.00; M closed
The biggest of Paris’s Asian super-markets is a treasure-trove of vegetarian delights.
Stock up on snack foods like locally prepared banana chips, Vietnamese desserts, pickled salads, and seasoned tofu.
If you’re renting a short-term apartment with a kitchen, you’ll want to head for the frozen food aisles, where vegetable dumplings come in myriad varieties (€3.50-5.95) and pick up a box of of tropical, dairy-free ice-cream bars in flavors like coconut, durian, and taro (€3.95).
This is also a good spot to stock up on soymilk and canned juices like tamarind, guava, and aloe.
Outside, don’t miss the fruit-juice stand (only open in the summer months), where you can buy and sip young coconuts (€2.80), fresh tropical fruit blends (€3.00), and a few non-dairy ice-cream cones (€2.80 for two scoops). The vendors are nice and happy to answer your questions.
Warning: stinky meat/fish counter at the back of the store. Credit cards accepted.
Paris Store
Asian supermarket
44 ave d’Ivry
Cross Street: blvd Massena
01 44 06 88 18
Métro: Porte d’Ivry
T-Th 9.00-19.00, F-Sa 9.00-20.00, Su 9.00-13.00; M closed
Tucked into the ground floor of the funky Olimpiades shopping complex, Paris Store is a smaller version of Tang Frères, with an equally veg-friendly inventory.
Young coconuts (€1.95), plain and seasoned tofu, Vietnamese desserts, fresh Asian produce and tropical fruits, and lots of snack items available throughout the store.
On the sidewalk in front of the store, pop-up vendors sell everything from fresh herbs and homemade sweets to tourists’ trinkets and mobile phone cases.
Credit cards accepted.
If you’ve made the trek to the 14th, you’re probably headed toward something with Montparnasse in its title: Montparnasse train station, Montparnasse cemetery, or perhaps Montparnasse tower, for its 360-degree views over the Île-de-France landscape.
Also worth a visit are the Catacombs, full of the old bones of Paris’s long-dead, and the small, moving Musée Jean Moulin, dedicated to the liberation of Paris and the end of WWII.
When you’ve had enough of the sights and are ready to tuck into something tasty, give one of these reliable spots a try.
Aquarius
Vegetarian fusion restaurant
40 rue de Gergovie
Cross street: rue Decrès
01 45 41 36 88
Métro: Pernety
M-Sa 12.00-14.15 and 19.00-23.00; Su closed
A pleasant, homey interior and a vegetarian menu to match? Indeed. Vegan choices are limited to two or so rotating plates influenced by Asian cuisines, but dairy-doers will be happy with the selection of options that take inspiration from the Mediterranean, the Americas, and other corners of the globe.
Lasagna, “meat” loaf, mushroom pie, and vegan pâté are some of the possibilities. Mid-day formule (€13) includes an entrée and main plate, or main plate and dessert. On the lighter end of the spectrum, there’s seaweed salad with smoked tofu (€8), and on the opposite end, there’s a mixed-grill plate (€19) loaded with fake meats—grain sausage, tofu sausage, seitan steak—and gravy.
Cheesecakes, fruit tarts, and chocolatey gâteau round out the dessert menu.
Credit cards accepted.
Vegetarian chocolate shop
57 Rue Daguerre
Cross street: rue Gassendi
01 42 18 49 02
Métro: Gaité or Raspail
W & F 12.00-19.00, Th 12.00-20.00, Sa 11.00-19.00, Su 11.00-14.00 and 16.00-19.00, M-Tu closed. Closed most of August.
There’s so much to love about this tiny chocolate boutique near Montparnasse cemetery.
First, there’s the thick cups of hot chocolate. WITH VEGAN CHANTILLY! (That’s whipped cream, for the Yanks.) Rich, decadent, and delicious, and worth a trip for this liquid experience alone.
Look for vegan Booja Booja chocolates, dairy-free spreads, raw and organic chocolates, and an endless array of gift ideas for your friends and family back home.
You’ll also find chocolate-tasting classes here (see pg. 46), and monthly tarot-and-hot cocoa meetups.
Laurence, the lovely proprietor, speaks English, so don’t be shy about asking questions.
Credit cards accepted.
Vegetarian & fish organic macrobiotic restaurant & health food shop
11 Rue Delambre
Cross street: blvd de Montparnasse
01 43 35 39 79
Métro: Vavin
M-F 12.00-15.00 and 17.00-22.30; Sa 12.00-15.00; Su closed
This is one of Paris’s oldest macrobiotic restaurants, and in some ways, it still feels trapped in a ’70s time warp, though in the best possible way. Communal wooden tables, hearty plates of faux meats, grains, and salads hit the spot, and reasonable prices are what to expect. Fish served, but the restaurant is mostly veg with plentiful vegan options.
Seitan and vegetables, cassoulet, and vegetable gratin (€10-12.50) are a few of the mains. Lighter plates include vegetable terrine, which comes with a gorgeous salad and bread.
You’ll also find muesli, fruit compotes, and other old-school sweets on the menu.
Unlike many macro restaurants in Paris, you’ll find wine on the menu here, as well as soy milk, fresh-pressed fruit and vegetable juices, tea, and coffee.
At the health food store attached to the restaurant you can pick up rice cakes, juices, and other snacks.
Credit cards accepted.
Paradis du Fruit
French healthy restaurant
21 blvd Edgar Quinet
Cross street: rue de Montparnasse
01 40 47 53 44
Métro: Edgar Quinet
M-Th 12.00-01.00, F-Sa 12.00-02.00, Su 12.00-01.00
This late-night chain restaurant offers “healthy” food in uniformly bright and cheerful dining rooms throughout the city.
The vegetarian options range from gazpacho (€7.90) and toasted sandwiches (€6.90) to tofu coconut curry (€12.90) and DIY composed plates (€12.50-16.50) that might include rice, green salad, steamed vegetables, French fries, guacamole, or toasted pita. All veg items are marked with a little green angel. Vegan options available on request.
To drink, look for juice drinks (€7), mojitos, piña coladas, and cosmopolitans (€10.90), bottled water, and wine by the glass or bottle.
Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous healthy
82 blvd du Montparnasse
Cross street: rue de Montparnasse
01 42 18 13 27
Métro: Montparnasse Bienvenue or Vavin
M-Th 09.00-22.00, F 08.00-23.00, Sa 09.00-23.00, Su 09.00-22.00
Like the other outlets scattered across Paris, this one, right in the shadow of Montparnasse tower, offers plenty of veg(an) and gluten-free options.
Soups (€3.95) are almost always vegan and come with optional bread, croutons, or crackers. Hot mains (€3.40-7.95) include savory pies and plates full of seasoned grains or pasta with vegetables. Salads (€1.50-5.70) are varied and flavorful, and there’s also a choice of two or three vegetarian sandwiches and focaccia breads. Lunch formule (€8.50) includes a salad, sandwich, and drink.
Desserts, wine, soft drinks, and teas available
Relaxed and comfortable ambience, and cleaner-than-average bathrooms. Credit cards accepted.
Like the neighboring 16th arrondissement, the 15th feels less commercial and more residential than many other Parisian neighborhoods. If you’ve found yourself here, you’ve probably come to see the sculptures at the Bourdelle museum, to wander the manicured lawns at Parc Citroën, or to take one of the popular Fat Tire Bicycle Tours.
Though the veg dining possibilities are more limited here, you definitely won’t go hungry—just make a beeline for one of these spots, or take a pleasant stroll to the neighboring 7th for more options.
Green Pizz (15th)
Omnivorous organic pizzeria
32 rue de Dantzig
Cross street: rue des Morillons
09 66 94 37 48
Métro: Porte de Versailles
Tu-Sa 12.00-14.30 and 19.00-22.30; Su-M closed. Also open Sundays in summer.
www.greenpizz.com
www.facebook.com/GreenPizz
This two-location pizza spot promises eco-friendly everything, from the organic flour and recycled to-go containers to the electric motorbikes used for deliveries.
Lunch menus from €13.90 to €19.90 include soup or salad, pizza and dessert. Look for several vegetarian pizzas (€11.50-15), all of which can be veganized. Salads (€4.80-€5) are veg-friendly, and soups (€4.80) are usually vegan.
Beer, wine, soda, and organic bottled juices round out the drinks menu.
Like this location, a sister location in the 13th also delivers hot pies to your door. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous supermarket
2 rue de Commerce
Cross street: ave de La Motte-Piquet
01 45 79 94 86
Métro: La Motte-Piquet
M-Sa 09.00-22.00, Su closed
When all else fails, there’s always Monoprix. Perched on the corner of busy shopping street rue de Commerce, the giant superstore chain has an upstairs supermarket where scads of prefab salads and sandwiches await. In the refrigerator section you’ll also find seasoned tofu, vegan burgers that can be eaten heated or straight out of the package, and an in-store boulangerie where you can pick up warm bread, tarts, and other sweets, and all kinds of spreads for your baguettes. Drinks, chocolate, and wine are a few more of the meat- and dairy-free things you’ll discover here. Credit cards accepted.
Fat Tire Bike Tours
Bicycle tours
Fat Tire Bike Tours, 24 rue Edgar Faure
Cross street: Allée Marguerite Yourcenar
01 56 58 10 54
In USA 866 614 6218 toll free
Métro Edgar Faure
www.paris.fattirebiketours.com
For visitors to the City of Light who aren’t intimidated by cobblestones and the occasional unexpected thunder shower, Fat Tire Bike and City Segway Tours offer several excellent possibilities for get ting well acquainted with Paris.
Friendly English-speaking guides take small groups out on cushy cruisers or two-wheel Segways and give a crash-course in local history, from the famous Tower to Napoleon’s Tomb and beyond.
Hint for oenophiles: Wine is a vital component of the night-tour itinerary!
This is the most exclusive district in Paris; a combination of upscale residential housing, chi-chi boutiques, and foreign embassies.
For such a sleepy arrondissement, there are a surprising number of museums, including the Palais de Tokyo, Musée Galliera, Musée Guimet, and Musée Marmottan-Monet.
The 16th is also the gateway to the verdant Bois de Boulogne, Paris’s version of Central Park, where you can rent boats and glide across a man-made lake, have a picnic, and enjoy a stroll through the forest.
Jour
Omnivorous healthy salad bar
40 avenue Kléber
Cross street: rue de Belloy
01 83 64 95 16
Métro: Kleber
M-Sa 11.45-16.30, Su closed
Not far from the Arc de Triomphe in Paris’s most upscale arrondissement sits Jour, one of the best salad bars in the city.
Select a salad base of greens—spinach, arugula (rocket), romaine—pasta, or grains (€2.80-4.80), then go to town choosing your toppings to make the custom salad of your lunchtime dreams. Artichokes, tofu, green beans, melon, corn, croutons, and other yummy choices abound (€.25-2.10).
Lunch specials start at €7.90 for a plat, dessert and drink. Soups, wraps, and savory tarts are among the other veg options. Bread (€.50), chips and a variety of vegan salad dressings to choose from.
Juice, tea, and wine too. Terrace seating. Credit Cards accepted.
Omnivorous Asian fusion
25 rue de La Pompe
Cross street: rue de Passy
01 40 72 70 00
Métro: La Muette
M-Su 12.00-14.30 and 19.30-23.00w
Upscale décor, themed rooms, and a cozy patio conspire to create a certain ambience that makes eating here a true “experience.” While the Asian-inspired menu doesn’t exactly overflow with vegetarian options, Bon does offer a generous handful of plates that are expertly prepared and tasty.
Spicy tomato gazpacho (€14), warm leek vinaigrette ponzu (€12), lacquered eggplant with miso sauce (€17), vegetable spring rolls (€12), and noodles with vegetables (€15) are the veg menu highlights.
To drink, look for a good wine list tea, soft drinks and fruit juices.
Free wifi. Credit cards accepted.
Tokyo Eat at the Palais de Tokyo
Omnivorous fusion restaurant
13 Avenue Président Wilson
Cross street: ave d’Iéna
01 47 20 00 29
Métro: Iéna
M-Su 12.00-02.00
One of the highlights of this contemporary art museum is the attached restaurant. Open, airy, and bustling at peak meal times enhanced by a live DJ spinning records, the Tokyo Eat gives good service, tasty food, and a really nice selection of veg options.
Fresh carrot-ginger juice (€5), fruit smoothies (€6) and Japanese green teas are the stars of the drinks menu. For solid sustenance, there’s black rice risotto (€20), mushroom rigatoni (€14), chestnut soup with spiced-bread croutons (€8), and several expertly prepared seasonal vegetable dishes, including beet tartare (€11).
The museum gift shop makes a great post-dining stop.
Kid friendly. Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous Thai restaurant
11 rue de Magdebourg
Cross street: ave Kléber
01 45 53 02 77
Métro: Trocadero or Iéna
M-F 12.00-14.30 and 19.00-23.30, Sa 19.00-23.30, Su closed
Lots of veg possibilities abound at this long-established Thai restaurant near Trocadero with its amazing Eiffel Tower views.
All of the soups (€9.90) have a vegetarian version (the broth is made with mushrooms, coconut milk, and galangal), and the same goes for the curries, which can be made with or without tofu. Noodle dishes like pad Thai with tofu (€16.90) are filling and sizeable enough to be shared (though you may not want to). Lots of tofu dishes, like tofu with ginger, three-spice tofu, and garlic-ginger tofu, to be eaten with perfumed jasmine rice or sticky rice.
Friendly, helpful staff and full bar. Credit cards accepted.
Cojean (16th)
Omnivorous healthy
78 Avenue Kléber
Cross street: rue Boissière
01 47 04 73 80
Métro: Boissière
M-F 8.30-16.00, Sa-Su closed
Like most of the other Cojeans in Paris, here you’ll find toasted vegetable sandwiches (€4.90), lasagna (€8.90), vegan soups (€4.50-4.90), and salads galore (€2.90-5.90).
Look for organic juices, bubble tea, and dairy-free tapioca desserts (€2.90).
Cojean caters to the lunchtime office crowd, and both hours and ambience reflect that. Still a good spot for a light snack and something to drink.
Free wifi. Credit cards accepted.
The 17th arrondissement might very well be Paris’s most underrated in terms of tourism. On one hand, it’s understandable: Besides sharing a little slice of Arc de Triomphe glory (the southwest border of the 17th nuzzles right up to it) and a celebrated park (Monceau), the 17th doesn’t really possess the sexy cachet that the other districts have; but what it lacks in sexy caché it makes up for in Parisian authenticity. With a broad socio-economic spectrum you get a mixed community from every ethnic and religious background, and all the amenities that appeal to an eclectic community.
To get a good sense of what living in Paris is all about, park yourself at one of the cute hotels that dot the Batignolles neighborhood, then make the neighborhood your own while you’re here. Take your tea (or coffee) at the nearest brasserie/café in the morning, stroll through a perfectly coiffed 19th-century park, visit the local bibliothèque (library), take in a movie at an art-house cinema, poke your nose into quaint and quirky secondhand shops, sip a petite cup of wheatgrass juice from a stand at the organic Saturday farmers’ market, and take your evening meal at a pizzeria where fromage-free pies won’t garner any funny looks from your Italian waiter.
Joy in Food
Healthy vegetarian restaurant
2 rue Truffaut
Cross street: rue des Dames
01 43 87 96 79
Métro: Rome or Place Clichy
M-F 12.00-14.30, Sa-Su closed. Closed most of August
This family-run restaurant is only open for lunch on weekdays, and draws a faithful clientele who come for the homey, hearty, and generous cooked grain-and-vegetable plates, friendly service, and cozy atmosphere. The 90 percent vegan menu includes a generous selection of dairy-free desserts.
Entrées range in price between €5 for a salad to €7 for the vegan pâté or vegetable tarte. Plat du jour (€10) is filling, but try to save room for the apple crumble (€6).
The formule (€13) includes an entrée and plat, or plat and dessert—or if you’re really hungry, the €17 formule offers three courses.
Fruit juices (€3) and coffee (€2). Cash only.
My Kitch’n
Vegan and raw food cafe
Inside Marché des Batignolles indoor market, 24 rue Brochant
Cross street: rue Lemercier
06 16 15 44 74
Métro: Brochant
Tu-F 9.00-13.00 and 15.30-20.00, Sa 9.00-20.00, Su 9.00-14.00; M closed
www.mykitchn.fr
www.facebook.com/mykitchn.fr
Many Paris restaurants promise healthy, delicious food, but My Kitch’n really delivers. The homemade gluten- and soy-free burgers (€12.50) come with roasted potatoes and green garnish, and are one of the main reasons to make a detour to this fast-casual spot inside the Batignolles indoor market; the super-friendly service is another. Jennifer, the lovely English-speaking proprietor, is a fountain of knowledge and will happily explain her culinary philosophy, and share facts related to plant-based diets.
The daily soup (€4.50) might be carrot-ginger, and odds are good there’ll be raw carrot cake (€4.50) or maybe a tasty fig cake with lavender icing (€3.20). Amazingly delicious green smoothies (€4.50), potent and tasty Fairtrade Marley coffee (€2.50), and imaginative sweet and savory dishes.
A small seating area inside, and take-away options galore. Children welcome. Dog-friendly. Cash only. Second location opening Sept 2014.
Organic street market
34 boulevard des Batignolles (between rue des Batignolles and rue Boursault)
Métro: Rome or Place de Clichy
Saturdays 9.00-15.00
Small but sweet Saturday morning market with an interesting combination of food, household items, beauty products, and healthy foods that are all certified organic.
Look for vegan croissants, superfoods from Sol Semilla (see 10th), kale and wheatgrass shots from Madame Mustard, and booths selling skin creams scented with aromatic essential oils.
If you didn’t see what you’re looking for, odds are good you’ll find it across the street at Naturalia.
Note: This is the Saturday Marché Biologique (organic) des Batignolles, on the south-east corner of the 17th. A few blocks away north-west along rue Lemercier is the indoor Marché Couvert (covered) des Batignolles (p.33), which houses My Kitch’n and is open the same times.
Bio Prestige
Omnivorous organic health food store and cafe
92 boulevard Batignolles
Cross street: Rome
01 45 22 53 52
Métro: Villiers
M-Sa 09.00-22.00; Su closed
You’ll find more than just organic beauty products, vitamins, and pantry staples at this upscale (aka expensive) natural foods store.
Inside, you’ll discover an organic Italian traiteur, where you can load up on picnic foods including olives, marinated artichokes and grilled eggplant, pasta- and grain-based salads, and stuffed grape leaves. Eat inside at one of the few small tables, or take your goodies to go.
Credit cards accepted.
Omivorous Lebanese cafe/takeaway
Inside Marché des Batignolles indoor market, 96bis rue Lemercier
Cross street: 24 rue Brochant
06 01 06 06 06
Métro: Brochant
Tu-F 09.00-13.00 and 15.30-20.00, Sa 9.00-20.00, Su 9.00-14.00; M closed
Facebook Edgar Traiteur
With a few exceptions, nearly everything showcased inside the gleaming glass deli case is vegan.
Stuffed grape leaves (€1.20 for three), a dozen varieties of savory dips—artichoke, fig, garlic (€2.50 for 100 grams)—plus hummus and baba ganoush. The list of treats goes on and on and on, and Edgar, the amiable proprietor, will happily offer you samples. The olive selection is astounding, with 19 delicious varieties.
Tasty and affordable falafel sandwiches (€3.50), and the super-addictive little pastries stuffed with spinach and onion called fatayer (€1) are vegan and satisfying.
Eat in on the mezzanine or take your falafel to go and enjoy it at the modern Parc Martin Luther King or old-school Square Batignolles.
Credit cards accepted.
Kloog Café
Omnivorous healthy bistro
63 rue Guy Moquet
Cross street: ave Saint-Ouen
Métro: Guy Môquet
01 42 29 59 18
M-W 11.00-13.30, W-Sa 18.30-21.00; Su 10.00-14.30 and 18.30-21.00
Its distinct pink façade makes this little organic restaurant easy to spot. Step into the teeny-tiny dining room with the bright green walls and you’ll discover an interesting variety of veg plates.
Run by a Franco-Norwegian couple, Kloog’s menu offers a similarly eclectic blend of flavors: eggplant sushi, Thai-style coconut milk soup, French-style tartines, and carrot cake might feature on the daily menu.
Evening formule (€25) includes an entrée, plat, and dessert. À la carte menu available. Kid-friendly. Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous Ethiopian restaurant
4 rue Sauffroy
Cross street: rue de Clichy
01 46 27 00 82
Métro: Brochant
M-Su 12.00-15.00 and 19.00-23.00
The best Ethiopian food in Paris can be found here, at this family-run restaurant where you always get a warm welcome.
A complimentary kir (white wine and cassis syrup) comes with the menu, which you won’t need, because there’s only one thing to order here: The vegetarian combo plate (€12.50).
Expect a giant, dairy- and egg-free platter full of spiced lentils, split peas, perfectly-cooked spinach, potato-and-green-bean mélange, salad, and mustard-spiced lentils.
Wine, coffee, Ethiopian beer, and a variety of non-vegan desserts served.
Try to come for the Friday and Saturday night coffee ceremony. Beginning at 22.45, the dining room fills with the smell of roasting coffee beans, and a pan is passed around so you can take a good whiff, along with a nibble of traditional spiced bread. A real dining experience.
Terrace seating. English spoken. Credit cards accepted.
Le Mont Liban
Omivorous Lebanese
42 blvd des Batignolles
Cross street: rue des Batignolles
01 45 22 35 01
Métro: Rome or Place de Clichy
M-Su 12.00-15.00, 19.00-23.00
Popular spot across from the Batignolles street market serves tasty Lebanese mezze plates and other dishes à la carte.
Moussaka (€6.50) pairs eggplant with chickpeas, onion, and a savory tomato sauce. The fatouche salad (€6) is seasoned sumac and features plenty of grilled pita. Moujadra (€5.50) is a filling mélange of lentils, rice, and slow-cooked onions, and if you’re feeling daring, you might try the tasty fava beans cooked in garlic, tomato, and olive oil (€6.50).
When all else fails, there’s always falafel (€7). Falafel sandwiches are sold next door at their other casual-dining location.
Mint tea, Lebanese beer and wines are also on the menu.
Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Omivorous Japanese cafe
Marché des Batignolles indoor market, 24 rue Brochant
Cross street: rue Lemercier
01 58 60 08 02
Métro: Brochant
Tu-F 09.00-13.00 and 15.30-20.00, Sa 9.00-20.00, Su 9.00-14.00; M closed
This Japanese cantine inside the covered market offers a nice selection of vegetarian options, including onigiri stuffed with miso or seaweed and vegetables (€1.50 each). Tempura vegetables (€3.00) might include sweet potato, onion, carrot, though the batter contains eggs.
For dessert, the homemade red bean cake with macha is a popular choice.
Friendly service and authentic Japanese flavor are the key components of this sweet little spot. Cash only.
Planet Thaï
Omnivorous Thai restaurant
28 rue Truffaut
Cross street: rue des Dames
01 45 22 45 12
Métro Rome or Place de Clichy
M-Sa 12.00-15.00 and 18.00-23.00, Su 18.00-23.00
A Frenchman, his Thai wife, and their daughter run this tiny, authentic, and deliciously veg-friendly little eatery behind the Mairie (town hall) in the Batignolles district.
Ask for the carte végétarienne (vegetarian menu), and select among such tasty dishes as seven-vegetable spring rolls (€6 for 3), eggplant in green-curry sauce (€12), mushroom soup with coconut milk and lemongrass (€8) and black mushroom ginger noodles (€12).
Beer and wine served. Service can be slow and portions are on the small side, but the food itself is high-quality and tasty. They deliver too! Ask for “livraison” (delivery), or try the eat-in daily menu for €12 (€8.50 for take-away).
Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous healthy restaurant & shop
5 & 9 Rue Saussier-Leroy
Cross street: rue Poncelet
01 47 64 19 68 restaurant
01 83 96 50 77 shop
Métro: Ternes
Restaurant M-F 10.00-18.00, Sa 10.00-17.00, Su closed.
Shop M-F 10.00-20.00, Sa 10.00-19.30, Su closed.
Just off the charming shopping street Poncelet sits this hidden gem, where a filling and delicious lunch can be eaten in or taken to go. The restaurant is 90 percent vegetarian. Expect savory tarts, gratins, and salads made with organic seasonal vegetables, with plenty of vegan options.
Brunch (€20) consists of coffee or tea, fresh-pressed juice, tarte or gratin du jour with two salads, pancakes or muffin, and optional yogurt with goji berries.
Next door sits l’Epicere Verte, a well-stocked natural foods store with skin-care products, fresh breads, household goods, and more.
Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
My Kitch’n 2
Vegan and raw food cafe
82 rue Lemercier
Cross street: rue Clairaut
06 16 15 44 74
Métro: Brochant
Open longer hours, planning Tu-Su 12.00-15.00, 19.00-22.00 to start (when the market is closed); M probably closed
www.mykitchn.fr
www.facebook.com/mykitchn.fr
STOP PRESS: As we go to print, a second branch of my Kitch’n is getting ready to open in September 2014 very close to the original (pg.184).
Montmartre is one of Paris’s most exciting neighborhoods. The “little village” ambience makes it ideal for strolling, from the foot of the fabled hill with its boutiques, cafés, and bars, straight up to the snow-white Sacré-Coeur basilica and its stupendous views over Paris.
A number of private museums—the Dali Museum, Musée d’Erotisme—as well as the charming Musée de Montmartre and its lovely gardens are perennial draws.
Events that take place here throughout the year, including October’s Fête des Vendanges de Montmartre (Montmartre Wine Festival) and June’s Fete de la Musique, bring out the crowds and add to the already-festive ambience.
Come spend the day exploring the cobbled streets and experiencing the Disney-esque vibe of Place du Tertre. At nightfall, take a seat on the steps of Sacré-Coeur and watch the street theater—jugglers, dancers, musicians—unfold before your eyes.
Toutofu: Atelier de Soja
Vegetarian Chinese café
25 rue Ordener
Cross street: rue Ernestine
Métro: Marcadet-Poissoniers
M-Tu 17.00-19.00; F-Su 11.00-19.00, W-Th closed
This tiny, family-run restaurant specializes in house-made tofu dishes cooked in traditional Chinese styles.
Menu items include mapo tofu in a spicy sauce (€7.80) served with rice and vegetables, or stir-fried tofu with vegetables (€7.80), but you might try the French influenced green lentil salad with smoked tofu (€4.20).
Fresh soy milk, intriguing soups, and vegan desserts are other possibilities.
A takeaway counter lets you pick up prepared salads and tofu to-go. Cash only.
Au Grain de Folie
Vegetarian French restaurant
24 Rue Lavieuville
Cross street: Trois Frères
01 42 58 15 57
Métro: Abbesses
M-Su 13.00-15.00, 19.00-23.00
On the tourist trail leading up to Montmartre, you’ll discover this tiny little vegetarian spot that’s been serving the neighborhood since 1981.
Whether you come for lunch or dinner, the formule is the same price—€13. Simple, generous composed plates of fresh vegetables—grated carrot, beet, cabbage, lettuce—share space with lentil salad, grains, and those überpopular open-faced sandwiches called tartines. Tarts, seitan stews, and other savory surprises are other possibilities. Gluten-free plates can be made on request.
The à la carte menu includes soup, vegan tzatziki, vegan pâté, and hummus (€.50 each).
Organic beer (€4.00-6.50), wines by the bottle or glass, and juices available.
Marie-Cecile, the friendly English-speaking proprietor, is sometimes the only one holding down the fort, so be patient if the service runs a bit slow. The location is ideal and the overall vibe is quintessential bohemian Paris. Snag one of the few outdoor seats if it’s a sunny day and enjoy the neighborhood views. Cash only.
Sweet Scoop
Bob’s Bake Shop
Vegetarian and fish American cafe
12 esplanade Nathalie Sarraute, opposite 39 rue Pajol
Cross street: blvd de la Chapelle
09 84 46 25 26
Métro: Marx Dormoy, La Chapelle
M-Su 08.00-16.00
www.bobsfoodetc.com
www.facebook.com/bobsfoodetc
In June 2014, the folks behind popular vegetarian spots Bob’s Juice Bar (10th) and Bob’s Kitchen (3rd) opened Bake Shop, a new spot not far from Gare du Nord at 22 bis rue Pajol.
“There are homemade bagels, American pastries such as pies and cookies, high end coffee and vegan smoothies,” says Bob’s owner, Marc Grossman. Unlike Bob’s Juice Bar and Bob’s Kitchen, Bake Shop is not vegetarian, but rather pescatarian (vegetarian + fish). There are however many vegan and vegetarian items as well as gluten-free and dairy-free pastries.”
Omnivorous Asian restaurant
20 rue Yvonne le Tac
Cross street: rue des Martyrs
01 42 54 44 24
Métro: Abbesses
M-Sa 12.00-22.00; Su closed
A stone’s throw from the charming Place des Abbesses and its much-photographed Art Nouveau Métro station is this hole-in-the-wall southeast Asian place that makes a mean bo bun (€8.50), with crispy spring rolls atop rice noodles and just the right amount of sauce and vegetables.
Lim, the on-site owner, has seen demand for vegetarian items grow and is working to develop the veg menu. Other veg dishes are well priced and balanced in flavor, including the sautéed noodles with vegetables (€8.90) and the steamed rice with vegetables (€7.90).
You can also pop in for a simple snack like fried nem (eggless egg rolls), which come three to an order and are served with lettuce leaves and a dipping sauce for the rockbottom price of €3.20. Fresh spring rolls with noodles and vegetable are €3.20 each, and vegetable samosas are €2.30 each.
Cambodian beer (€3.60), juice, wine, and sparkling water will help keep thirst at bay.
Terrace seating. Dog-friendly. Credit cards accepted.
Gang Seng
Ominvorous Tibetan
40 rue Lepic
Cross street: rue des Abbesses
01 46 06 71 91
Métro: Blanche or Abbesses
Tu 19.00-23.00; W-Su 12.00-14.00 and 19.00-23.00; M closed
Friendly service and authentic Tibetan flavor in each plate is what you can expect at Gang Seng.
Take a seat in the tiny upstairs dining room or out on the sidewalk terrace, order a beer (€3.50-4.50), then a starter of steamed Tibetan bread (€2.50), momo (€5), or vegetable noodle soup (€9).
Mains include noodles with black mushoorm (€12), tofu with vegetables, or Tibetan fried noodles (€12).
Wine by the bottle or glass, tea, and other drinks available.
Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous fusion cafe
64 rue Lamarck
Cross street rue Coulaincourt
01 46 06 54 40
Métro: Lamarck-Coulaincourt
Tu-Sa 10.00-24.00 (last orders 23.00), Su brunch 10.00-16.00 (except school holidays, see Facebook), M closed
www.hope-café.com
Facebook Hope café
An eclectic, organic cafe on the quiet, less touristy north side of Montmartre with a menu that covers every possible food craving you might have, from sushi to vegan burgers. The owners are French but have done a lot of traveling and wanted their restaurant to reflect the culinary diversity of their experiences.
Soymilk smoothies (€4/5/7) can be made with or without maca and guarana. Fresh juices (€4/5/7) are made with your choice of seasonal vegetables and fruits. They even offer mojitos with organic rhum (€8.50).
Entrées include salads (€7), soups (€7) like coconut-curry lentil, and nems (€6) with vegetables. Vegan burgers (€15), maki (€13) and vegetable tart (€12) are other possibilities.
The vibe is friendly and welcoming, and very laid-back in a California beach town kind of way. A great spot to spend a Sunday morning relaxing, eating, and enjoying Paris café culture.
Kid-friendly. Terrace seating. Dog-friendly. Credit cards accepted.
Moulin Rouge
French omnivorous
82 blvd de Clichy
Cross street: rue Lepic
01 53 09 82 82
Métro: Blanche
it’s the last place you’d expect to find a plant-based meal, but the celebrated cabaret wants your business! With both vegan (végétalien)and vegetarian (végétarien) options, no one has to be left out of the cancan party. Besides a seat at the world-famous show (the current production is “Féerie”), the dinner-show menu (€185) includes a demi-bottle of Champagne or wine, plus three courses including tartare de légumes, soup, and salad as a starter; vegetable fricassée for your main course; and three different seasonal sorbets for dessert. Vegetarian option includes dairy and eggs.
Everyone from Elton John to Salvador Dali and Elvis Presley have taken in a show here, and now vegans can too. Whoopee!
Credit cards accepted.
Omivorous healthy
31 rue Lepic
Cross street: rue des Abbesses
01 46 06 79 98
Métro: Blanche or Abbesses
M-Su 08.00-22.00
One of the Belgian chain’s newest locations is in prime tourist territory, much to the joy of visiting vegetarians.
Non-meat items like the veg pot au feu with quinoa and harissa (€9.50) are plentiful and clearly marked, and most dishes come with the trademark pain (bread) served with a variety of jams and spreads. Tartines (open-faced sandwiches) change regularly; a daily special might be avocado with green beans and hummus (€9.60) with a side salad. Soups (€4.90-6.90) are often vegan and always vegetarian.
Salads are filling, if a little on the expensive side. The Detox salad with quinoa and vegetables will set you back €11.70, and the artichoke with arugula costs €13.60.
Organic wine served, as well as juice, coffee, and tea.
Kid-friendly. Terrace seating. Free wifi. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous organic
33 rue Lamarck
Cross street: Coulaincourt
01 71 37 99 95
Métro: Lamarck-Coulaincourt
Tu, Th-F 08.30-19.00; W 9.00-19.00; Sa-Su 10.00-19.00; M closed. Closed August
The photo of Soul Kitchen’s daily chalkboard menu is uploaded to their website each day, but it doesn’t tell you about the homemade granola with soymilk or the daily scones, muffins, and madeleines.
Order your daily special (€12.50) at the counter and one of the nice staff will deliver it to your indoor table or seat outside in the sun. Salads are fresh and full of greens, seeds, and seasonal vegetables.
Not everything can be veganized, but ask anyway. The Tijuana Stop bowl is loaded with salsa, guacamole, brown rice, and greens, with optional crème fraiche. The Acapulco Wrap features grilled veggies in a grilled tortilla and chipotle sauce—a rare delicacy in this corner of the world.
Drinks include grapefruit juice (€3.50), iced coffee (€3.50), and wine by the glass or bottle. They charge an “alternative milk” tax of €.50, but it isn’t just limited to soy, rice, and hazelnut milk; the goat milk gets it, too.
Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
The 19th arrondissement straddles the Canal de l’Ourcq and is home to some of the city’s most exciting music and entertainment venues. A blend of contemporary and centuries-old architecture and an intriguing mélange of cultures and cuisines—Jewish, Chinese, Arab, and African—you can’t help but have a great time exploring its side streets.
Beginning in late July, Paris Plages sets up its northern outpost along the canal, and the area takes on a carnivaleseque air. The rest of the year, the banks of the canal still bustle with lively pétanque games, cyclists, promeneurs, and picnics.
Further out toward the périphérique sits the Parc de la Villette, with its museums, concert halls, children’s play zones, and grassy areas for lounging.
Neighborhood favorite
Café Zoïde
Vegetarian family café
92 bis Quai de la Loire
Cross street: rue de Crimée
01 42 38 26 37
Métro: Laumière
W-Su 10.00-18.00; M-Tu closed
This 100-percent veg “kids’ café” is run by a non-profit association that welcomes kids, families, and childless people alike to come in and enjoy a cheap, filling meal and have some fun.
Plat du jour (€6, or €5 for association members) is a generous portion of grains and vegetables, usually vegan, and when not, there’s always a vegan option. Snacks—crêpes, cake, ice cream—are €2.
Juice, tea, or coffee can be had for €1.50.
A great place to come with young kids, who’ll find entertainment with games, workshops, theater, and other activities in the upstairs playroom. Programs for teens and parents are on the menu too.
Cash only.
Vegetarian tofu shop
141 rue de Crimée
Cross street: ave Juan Jaurès
01 42 00 59 92
Métro: Laumière or Ourcq
M-Su 10.00-18.00
The tofu—soft, firm, fried, and five-flavors varieties—are made fresh daily at this family-run hole-in-the-wall.
Tofu is the cheapest and possibly the highest quality in town, with big bricks selling for €1.40 and the fried and flavored varieties ranging from €3.40-7 per kilo. Try the thin little cinq parfums squares; they make a great snack!
Cash only.
Café Antipode
Omnivorous café
55 quai de la Seine
Cross street: rue de Crimée
01 42 03 39 07
Métro: Riquet
M-F 12-00-14.30 and 19.00-23.00; Sa-Su 12.00-16.00 and 19.00-23.00. Bar till 02.00.
Moored along the scenic Canal de l’Ourcq is this all-in-one organic café/theater/music venue.
During the day, you can sit on the deck and enjoy a soup and salad combination, and wash it down with a cold beer, glass of wine, or any one of their 25 different fair trade, artisanal, or organic teas.
Lunch specials are cheap and filling: for €7, you can have a tartine, soup, and salad; for €10 you can have that and a tart for dessert.
Tartines on their own are €8, mostly vegetarian, and most can be veganized.
Chips and guacamole (€4), olive tapenade with spice bread (€4) and other tapas go well with the cocktails.
A great spot for a sun-splashed lunch. At night, the venue hosts theater, music, and magic performance for adults, with the occasional children’s event too. Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous Lebanese restaurant
105 rue de Meaux
Cross street: rue Cavendish
01 42 41 84 32
Métro: Laumière
M-Su 12.00-14.30 and 18.30-22.30
You’ll get a warm welcome from this family-run Lebanese restaurant on a quiet street just off the canal.
Many traditional favorites—eggplant caviar (€4), falafel (€4.50), fatouche salad with fresh vegetables tossed with grilled pita bread (€5)—are inherently vegan and, not coincidentally, inherently tasty. The assiette végétarienne (€9.50) gives you the chance to try a bit of everything.
Soft drinks, wine, and that potent licorice-flavored liquor, arak, feature on the drinks menu.
Credit cards accepted
Rosa Bonheur
Omnivorous café, pub, beer garden
Parc des Buttes Chaumont 2 allée de la Cascade
Cross street: rue de la Villette
01 42 00 00 45
Métro: Botzaris
W-Su 12.00-00.00, M-Tu closed
www.rosabonheur.fr
facebook.com/rosabonheurparis
This beloved gay hotspot inside the picturesque Buttes Chaumont park is the place to spend a sunny summer day eating and drinking at the outdoor tables, or dancing the steamy night away inside on a hot summer (or cold winter) night.
A Spanish tapas-style menu includes olive-fig tapenade or artichoke spread and bread (€5), organic salads and wraps (€5-7), and savory cakes (€2.50).
Drinks include fresh-squeezed lemonade and juices (€4.50-6.00), beer, wine, and tea (€3.50).
A place to relax, have fun, and have a nibble while you’re at it. Terrace seating. Free wifi. Credit cards accepted.
Omnivorous crêperie
41 bis quai de la Loire
Cross street: rue de Crimée
01 42 01 56 04
Métro: Laumière
M-Su 12.00-23.00
The big draw at this canalside café is the terrace seating where you can enjoy a hearty buckwheat crepe stuffed with the filling of your choice, and watch the activity on the canal.
Build your own crepe (€6.60-9.10) by adding your favorite veg ingredients: Potatoes, mushrooms, ratatouille, or even pineapple, and with or without eggs or cheese. (Make sure to say “sans fromage” if you’re vegan, just in case).
You can also pick something from the menu, including the market vegetable galette (€6.30), which is stuffed with seasonal vegetables. Veg soup (€5.50) and scads of salads (€8.50-10.10) ensure you won’t go hungry.
Kid-friendly. Terrace. Dog-friendly. Credit cards accepted.
Le Cent-Quatre
Public cultural centre
5 Rue Curial
Cross street: rue Riquet
01 53 35 50 00
Métro: Riquet
Tu-Su 11.00-19.00 plus evening shows, M closed
Never mind that it used to be the city morgue; today, the Cent-Quatre is one of Paris’s most interesting arts and entertainment venues. Come for the art exhibits, shops, and live performances spanning the spectrum from music to dance and theater. On weekends, the communal spaces fill with hip-hop dancers who put on a great show for anyone who passes.
These two cafés housed inside the center offer a couple of veg options each.
Café Caché
Tu-Th 9.00-19.30, F-Sa 9.00-22.00, Su 11.00-20.00, M closed
A black and white photo booth sits just outside this “hidden café”; inside, you’ll find lots of tasty beverages—wine, coffee, tea, mixed cocktails—a pleasant terrace, and a few veg options including salads, frites, and even a meatless croque monsieur.
Les Grandes Tables
Tu-F 12.00-19.00, Sa-Su 11.00-19.00, M closed
Soups, salads, pastas, and tarts are some of the things you’ll find on the daily menu at this indoor-outdoor café with, as its name suggests, very big tables. Friendly staff and prime views on the dancers practicing their enviable hip-hop moves.
There are several good reasons to venture out into Paris’s easternmost arrondissement, Père Lachaise cemetery being one of the best. The pretty old graveyard—the city’s largest—is the final resting place of everyone from Edith Piaf and Oscar Wilde to Jim Morrison and Gertrude Stein.
photo Roger C. Lakhan
You’ll also discover some popular music and entertainment venues here, including the Flèche d’Or, which has been converted from an old train station into a hot music spot where you can catch independent bands from around the world.
If you dare, the funky Porte de Montreuil flea market can be found out here, and is one of the best spots to rummage through piles of old clothes looking for that perfect wearable treasure.
Next to the market sits a cluster of Accor hotels with rooms offering predictable comfort and cleanliness for low prices.
Neighborhood favorite
Namo Bio
Vegetarian natural foods store
15 rue de la Reunion
Cross street: rue des Pyrénées
01 43 56 00 08
Métro: Buzenval or Maraichers
M-Sa 10.00-21.00, Su 9.00-12.45
This independent organic market is completely vegetarian and offers a good selection of readymade foods, plus breads, fake meats, bulk-bin items, non-dairy yogurts, and fresh produce (below).
Come in and stock up for a picnic in the park or a gourmet vegan dinner chez vous.
Credit cards accepted.
Omivorous Mediterranean
110 rue de Menilmontant
Cross street: rue des Pyrénées
01 47 97 04 59
Métro: Gambetta or Saint-Fargeau
M-Su 11.00-00.00
Friendly, super casual, and cheap, this little spot is the ideal stopover before a show at nearby music venues La Bellevilloise or La Maroquinerie (where there’s a vegan burger on the menu, FYI). Expect simple, middle-eastern inspired tapas like hummus (€4), Mediterranean salads (€7.50), eggplant caviar (€4) and plenty of bread to mop it all up with.
Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Mama Shelter
Omnivorous pizzeria
109 rue de Bagnolet
Cross street: rue des Pyrénées
01 43 48 45 45
Métro: Gambetta or Maraichers
M-Su 12.00-01.30
The city’s hippest hotel (pg.14) is attached to the city’s hippest pizzeria, and you’ll find them both out in the hinterlands of eastern Paris in an area that’s become a popular nightlife destination.
Most of the entrées, such as vegetable confit (€6) or gazpacho (€6), are already vegetarian, and all the pizzas can be veganized. The Vegetarian (€13) is already cheese-free; the Vesuviana (€15) comes with or without parmesan, and includes arugula, olives, artichokes, mushroom, and tomato.
Wines are all delicious (€6 by the glass, €24 by the bottle), and soft drinks and fizzy water are available for teetotalers.
Credit cards accepted.
Rouleau de Printemps
Omnivorous Vietnamese
42 rue de Tourtille
Cross street: rue de Belleville
01 46 36 98 95
Métro: Belleville
Su-Tu 11.30-15.00, 19.00-23.00; W closed
This cheap, tasty, and tiny canteen offers a good selection of vegetarian items (€1.90-7.00) including that global favorite, bo bun (€5.80-7.00), plus a super noodley won ton soup (€5.90), the eponymous spring rolls (€2.70), and decadent, greasy boulettes stuffed with black mushrooms and cabbage (€5).
Beer, wine, and the cheapest tea in town (€.30).
Expect communal tables, Parisian hipsters, and a wait on weekends.
Credit cards accepted
Omnivorous South Asian
3 rue du Jourdain
cross street: rue de Belleville
01 43 66 02 65
Métro: Jourdain
M-Sa 12.00-14.30 and 19.00-23.30, Su closed
Stellar service, kitschy décor, and balanced flavors dominate at this cozy spot not far from the must-visit Buttes Chaumont park.
Entrées include dal (€4.50), pakora (€4), and samosa (€4.50), and breads run the gamut from naan to chapatti. Veg biryani (€11) curried spinach or eggplant (€8/8.50), and pea-and-potato curry (€7) are tasty and filling.
For dessert, try the rose sorbet (€4).
Multi-course lunch and dinner menus available.
Full bar. Terrace seating. Credit cards accepted.
Wen Zhou
Omnivorous Chinese restaurant
24 rue de Belleville
Cross street: blvd de Belleville
01 46 36 56 33
Métro: Belleville
F-W 10.30-22.30; Th closed
The lengthy vegetarian menu is a welcome sight at this popular, no-frills Chinese restaurant in the thick of Belleville.
House-made fried dumplings (€5.90), hand-pulled noodle soup (€5.50), taro with sautéed greens (€6.90), and noodles with garlic and black vinegar (€5.90) are just a few of the standouts.
Tsing Tao beer, soft drinks, tea, and wine served, plus greasy red-bean sesame balls for dessert.
Can get noisy when crowded, but it’s always a good place to get stuffed on the cheap. Cash only.
