Roasted Heirloom Apples Filled with Pork Sausage

[SERVES 4]

A dozen Lady apples or 4 Gala apples

Coarse salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1 pound cotechino or other fresh, fatty, spicy Italian sausage, removed from its casing (check out dartagnan.com)

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

8 to 10 fresh sage leaves, torn in half if large

½ to ¾ bottle white wine

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

If you’re using Lady apples, scoop the core and seeds and a little bit of apple flesh out of each one using a teaspoon, making cups out of the apples, each with a substantial space for plenty of filling. If you’re using regular apples, cut them in half crosswise and then scoop the core from the center of each and remove the stems, forming 8 cups.

Season the prepared apples with salt and pepper and evenly divide the sausage meat among them, filling each one with enough sausage to make a small mound of meat. Season the sausage with additional salt and pepper and nestle the stuffed apples in an ovenproof skillet or roasting dish that holds them snugly in an even layer.

Scatter the butter over and in between the apples, and tuck the sage leaves among them. Pour enough wine into the skillet (or dish) to almost cover the apples. Roast in the oven until the apples can easily be pierced with a knife, about 1 hour.

 

Poulet Rôti

[SERVES 4]

1 tablespoon fennel seeds

1 tablespoon Herbes de Provence (here)

1 tablespoon coarse salt

One 3- to 4-pound chicken, patted dry with paper towels

Using a mortar and pestle, or in a coffee grinder, coarsely grind the fennel seeds, herbes de Provence, and salt. Evenly season the chicken with the mixture, inside and out, really massaging it into all of the crevices. Let the chicken sit for at least an hour at room temperature, or in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

When you are ready to cook the chicken, preheat the oven to 425°F, place the chicken in a skillet or a roasting dish—anything, really—and set it in the oven. Roast until the thigh registers 165°F on a meat thermometer, about 1 hour and 15 minutes. Let it rest for at least 10 minutes before carving and eating it. No need to truss, baste, anything. Just season and cook. End of story.

On Seasoning White Meats

Dried fennel pollen is one of my favorite herbs, but it’s hard to find in America and very expensive. Grinding fennel seeds with a bit of salt mimics it, and the mixture is terrific, not just on chicken, but on any white meat, including pork, fish, rabbit, and veal.