Seasoned Salts
Use a ratio of 3 parts salt to 1 part spice or herbs. Coarsely grind together the salt and your favorite spices in a mortar with a pestle, or in a food processor. I often use a combination of fennel seeds and black pepper in the fall and switch to coriander and cumin seeds in the summer. No refrigeration necessary. Use to season meats, fish, and eggs.
Old Bread
Leftover bread still has promise in it. A day-old chunk of bread is perfect to soak in water and vinegar for the Heirloom Tomato Salad with Cucumbers and Bread (here). Leftover bread or fresh bread can be made into bread crumbs, which are essential to many of my favorite recipes, including Mussels Provençal (here), Meatballs (here), and Cassoulet (here). To make bread crumbs, remove the crust, tear the bread into small pieces, and pulse in a food processor to fine crumbs. Now the bread crumbs are ready for toasting or soaking, depending on the recipe. Bread crumbs don’t keep well, so it is best to make them as needed.
Béchamel
This makes a very dense béchamel, perfect for spreading on bread for “croques” (here), or for using in a mixture for a croquette. If you need a thinner, looser béchamel, such as for a cheese sauce, simply add more milk.
[MAKES ¾ CUP]
1½ tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
¾ cup whole milk
Coarse salt
Combine the butter, flour, and nutmeg in a heavy saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring with a wooden spoon, until barely browned, 3 to 4 minutes. Gradually stir in the milk and cook, stirring constantly until the mixture thickens and begins to pull away from the edges of the pan, 3 to 4 minutes; you are looking for a mixture that has the consistency of a thick pudding. It will stick to the spoon and should have some elasticity. Remove the béchamel from the heat and season to taste with salt.
Tomato Sauce
This utterly simple tomato sauce is essential for Meatballs (here) and is also good to have on hand for simple pastas or to poach eggs in. I never made tomato sauce once during my three years in Reggio Emilia since it’s not part of the northern Italian repertoire. But when I got to Rome, the bucatini changed everything!
[MAKES 2 CUPS SAUCE]
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 sprig fresh basil
3 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
One 28-ounce can crushed tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
1½ teaspoons coarse salt
Pinch red chili flakes
Place the olive oil in a large saucepan over low heat. Add the basil and garlic and cook until just golden, about 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and their juices along with the salt and chili flakes. Let the sauce simmer over low heat until thick, about 45 minutes. Remove and discard the basil sprig before serving.
Healthy Household Cleaning Tips
CUTTING BOARDS
To deodorize and brighten wooden boards, cut a lemon in half and work it into the board with a handful of salt. Lemons and salt are a natural bleach and antiseptic.
STOVETOPS
Cooking and cleaning go hand in hand. Knowing that grease will remove grease will save you some time when the cooking is done. Rub out stubborn grease spatters with an oiled cloth. For more shine use a paste of baking soda and water for a nonabrasive cleaner.
COPPER POTS
As an apprentice I did my share of grunt work. In Kurashiki, Japan, I was responsible for washing and folding the kitchen towels at the end of each dinner service. In Reggio Emilia, Italy, I polished the copper pots among other things. To clean copper, make a paste out of equal parts lemon juice (or white vinegar), flour, and salt. Simply rub it all over your copper and rinse off the paste. Dry with a cotton towel and watch them shine immediately—works like a charm!
SILVER
I am an avid collector of old silver trays, cake stands, candy dishes, and teapots. I find mixing and matching different pieces delightful. To give your silver pieces a little sparkle, soak them in a nonreactive container lined with a small sheet of aluminum foil and filled with ¼ cup ammonia, 10 cups warm water, and a capful of soap. Rinse and dry the silver with a cotton towel.
KITCHEN FIRST AID: ALOE VERA
It’s wise to keep an aloe vera plant in or near your kitchen for its soothing and healing properties. In the event you cut or burn yourself, neither pleasant but both inevitable, cut a piece of aloe and place the cut side directly on your wound.