What we think of today as the Global South, with its wonderful convergence of people from all over the world on the American South, has inspired a culinary movement in which ingredients, flavors, and cooking techniques from many different countries and cultures grace the southern table. It is impossible to eat in the South today and not encounter Latino, Vietnamese, Greek, Jewish, Caribbean, and other cultural imprints in the modern flavors that meld at the table seamlessly with southern food. From the “red-hot” tamales of the Mississippi Delta to Louisiana’s Cajun Vietnamese crawfish boiled with lemongrass and hot sauce, Global Southern cuisine is vibrant and effervescently evolving. Beans and peas lend themselves perfectly to these new interpretations that marry the classic southern culinary flavors with those from around the world. In this chapter, you’ll find some of the dishes born from this movement—some created by highly esteemed chefs and others by innovative cooks in their own kitchens. One thing is true: no matter the many flavors that come together in these bean and pea recipes, they all stay true to their southern roots.
I am a meat lover, but, given a choice, I’d eat these bean burgers over a beef burger any day! They’re perfectly seasoned with spices and their texture is just right—not too hard or too mushy—and holds up to all of my favorite toppings. There are a few things to keep in mind when creating the perfect bean burgers: First, they need to chill for a while before you cook them or they’ll fall apart. Second, they must be dredged in flour before they hit the oil in the pan to ensure that they form a golden crust. Finally, they must spend a bit of time in the oven after they’ve been seared in the oil so that they can cook through without burning; baking also helps them retain their shape. I prefer to cook my own beans for these burgers (see page 94), because canned beans can be too mushy. If you do use canned beans, gradually add more breadcrumbs until the mixture holds together.
MAKES 6–7 SERVINGS
FOR THE CHIPOTLE MAYO
1 cup mayonnaise
1 medium canned chipotle chile in adobo, finely minced
2 teaspoons adobo sauce from the canned chipotles
FOR THE BURGERS
1 cup chopped white onion
3 garlic cloves, chopped
4 cups cooked black beans, drained well, divided
1/2 cup chopped cilantro (leaves and tender stems)
1/2 cup bread crumbs
1 egg
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 teaspoon ancho chile powder
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup all-purpose flour (for dredging)
1/3–1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
6–7 kaiser or hamburger rolls, split lengthwise
6–7 Bibb lettuce leaves
1 large tomato, thinly sliced
Ketchup, to taste (optional)
To make the chipotle mayo, in a small bowl combine the mayonnaise, chipotle, and adobo sauce; stir to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and chill until ready to use (up to 4 days).
To make the burgers, line a large baking pan with parchment paper; set aside. Place the onion and garlic in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade; pulse 3 times at 5-second intervals or until finely chopped (stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed).
Add 3 cups of the beans and the cilantro, bread crumbs, egg, salt, cumin, coriander, chile powder, and pepper and pulse 6–8 times at 5-second intervals until the mixture is smooth (stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl as needed). Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl; stir in the remaining beans until well distributed.
Using a heaping 1/2 cup of the mixture each, form 3 1/2 × 1/2-inch patties and place them on the prepared pan. Chill the patties for at least 30 minutes (up to 2 hours).
Preheat the oven to 375°. Spray a large baking sheet with cooking spray (or oil lightly) and set aside.
Place the flour in a shallow baking pan and dredge the patties in the flour, removing any excess flour by patting them between your hands. Heat half of the oil in a 10-inch nonstick skillet set over medium-high heat and, working in batches (and adding the remaining oil as needed), cook the patties on both sides until golden, about 1 1/2–2 minutes per side (see Note); set them on the prepared sheet.
Bake for 15–20 minutes. Brush the rolls with the chipotle mayonnaise; dress with lettuce and tomato. Place a bean patty inside each roll and top with ketchup, if using.
NOTE * If the burgers are browning too quickly in the pan, reduce the heat to medium. It’s important to cook them just until they form a golden-brown crust; baking them will cook them through.
Once fried, these crispy little appetizers resemble sombreros. They’re creamy inside and have just enough heat to make the palate tingle. I make these in large quantities—the recipe easily doubles and triples or quadruples—because they can be frozen after they’re assembled and go directly from freezer to fryer. I serve these with a vibrantly flavored avocado crema, store-bought salsa, and sour cream. They’re fun, very original, and absolutely adorable. Use canned refried beans, but be sure to process them to remove any lumps or they’ll cause the wontons to tear (my favorite brand is Ducal by GOYA, because they’re already smooth).
MAKES 4–6 SERVINGS
FOR THE AVOCADO CREMA
1 Hass avocado
1 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons lime juice, or to taste
3/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
FOR THE “SOMBREROS”
1 (12-ounce, 50-piece) package square wonton wrappers
3/4 cup canned refried black beans
2 small jalapeño peppers, cut into paper-thin rounds (seeded and deveined for less heat)
Paste made with 1/4 cup water plus 4 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Vegetable or peanut oil for frying
To make the avocado crema, combine the avocado, sour cream, lime juice, salt, and pepper in a medium bowl; using a fork or a small potato masher, mash it all well together until smooth. Cover with plastic wrap and chill it until ready to serve (you may prepare the crema one day ahead).
To make the sombreros, fit a large baking pan with a metal cooling rack and line two baking pans with parchment paper; set aside.
Spread out the wonton wrappers on a clean surface, keeping them covered with a clean towel as you work so that they don’t dry out. Working with two wonton wrappers at a time, place 1 teaspoon of the beans in the center of one and top with a few pieces of jalapeño. Using your index finger, apply some of the paste to the edges of the second wonton and place it on top of the wonton with the beans. Seal the wontons, making sure to press out any air bubbles as you do so (so the wontons don’t burst when cooked). Repeat until all of the wontons are filled (you should have 24–25 pieces), keeping them covered as you work.
Using a 2 1/2-inch round cookie cutter (with fluted edges, if possible), cut the filled wontons into rounds and place them on the prepared baking pans. Place them in the refrigerator for 20–30 minutes, keeping them covered with the towel (see Note).
In a large skillet with high sides, heat 2 inches of oil to 360° (or use a deep fryer according to the manufacturer’s directions); working in batches and using your hands, gently place the filled wontons in the oil. Fry them until golden, about 45 seconds to 1 minute, turning them over halfway through. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to the prepared rack to drain. Serve immediately with the crema.
NOTE * For best results, cook these soon after assembling them, or you can freeze them for up to 2 months. Freeze them in single layer; once solid, transfer to freezer-safe bags. Don’t thaw them before frying; add 10–15 extra seconds to the frying time.
Sweet, zesty vinaigrette adds a level of sumptuousness to humble white beans in this salad that is sure to blow your mind and surprise your palate. As unusual as it may appear, many cultures combine beans with sweet and sour sauces. You’ll even find sweetened beans cooked with chocolate in Central American desserts, and beans used to make delicate sweets in Asia. Here in the South, baked bean dishes enhanced with molasses or sorghum are quite common, and they’re often served alongside barbecue. I’ve transformed this idea into a salad that’s as elegant as it is exotic. You’ll have to trust me on this one: raisins and beans go very well together in this salad. Serve it as a bed for poached or grilled salmon.
MAKES 6–8 SERVINGS
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup golden raisins
1 (2-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and sliced in quarters
2 teaspoons finely chopped tarragon (optional)
1/4 cup unsulfured molasses
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound great northern white beans, cooked, rinsed, and drained
2 large garlic cloves, minced
2 cups seeded and finely chopped plum tomatoes (about 4–5 large)
1 (7-ounce) jar diced pimientos, drained
1/3 cup minced shallots
1/4 cup minced leeks (white and light green parts only)
3/4 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
Combine the vinegars and raisins in a small, nonreactive saucepan set over medium heat. Bring the mixture to a simmer and cook for 2–3 minutes. Remove the raisins with a slotted spoon and set them aside in a small bowl. Stir the ginger and tarragon (if using) into the vinegar. Bring the mixture to a simmer again over medium heat and cook for 1 minute; turn off the heat and let the vinegar mixture cool completely, about 20 minutes.
When the vinegar is cool to the touch, strain it into a medium bowl; discard the ginger and the tarragon. Add the molasses and stir until completely dissolved; add the salt and pepper. Slowly whisk in the olive oil and set aside.
In a large bowl, combine the beans, garlic, tomatoes, pimientos, shallots, leeks, and parsley. Pour the vinaigrette over the salad and stir well; add the reserved raisins and stir again. Chill the salad for at least 2 hours (and up to 24) before serving.
Summertime in the South spells an abundance of peas and tomatoes and, not surprisingly, what grows at the same time also cooks together well. I came across this rich and comforting dish in the extraordinary book Matzoh Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales of the Jewish South, written by my friend Marcie Cohen-Ferris. Marcie, who is a food historian and author, got this recipe from Miriam Cohen, a member of the Congregation Or VeShalom in Atlanta, where the Sephardic community holds a food festival every December. Marcie says that this dish is traditionally served with a Sephardic rice-and-tomato dish called pink rice, which is reminiscent of the red rice eaten in the Low Country (Marcie’s son calls it “Jewish soul food”). Here is an example of how Jewish and southern culinary traditions are threaded together to form a wonderful tapestry of flavors that celebrates both cultures.
MAKES 6–8 SIDE-DISH SERVINGS
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 large onion, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 medium tomato, chopped
1/2 teaspoon thyme
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 boxes (10 ounces each) frozen black-eyed peas or fresh black-eyed peas (add more water if necessary)
1 1/2 cups water (or more if using fresh peas)
In a large, heavy saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook, stirring often, until tender, about 4 minutes. Add the tomato, thyme, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring often, until the tomato starts to soften, about 2 minutes. Stir in the black-eyed peas and water; bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer until the peas are tender, about 30 minutes. Taste and correct the seasoning, if necessary. Serve the peas hot or warm.
From Matzoh Ball Gumbo: Culinary Tales of the Jewish South, by Marcie Cohen Ferris. © 2005 Marcie Cohen Ferris. Used by permission of the University of North Carolina Press.
I was inspired to make this New Southern–Latino twist on a dish made with crabmeat that I first tried at e2 emeril’s eatery, Emeril Lagasse’s restaurant in Charlotte, North Carolina. Here, crispy, fried green tomatoes sit atop a bed of pea salsa, and between the layers of tomatoes hides a sweet remoulade made with imitation crabmeat. I love this kind of crabmeat in this recipe because its sweet flavor interplays seamlessly with those of the other ingredients. The imitation crab is made with pollock, a fish that has been shaped and cured to resemble crab or lobster meat—because the poor thing is so ugly that we wouldn’t eat it otherwise—but you can use shrimp, crabmeat, or lobster if you prefer. Each bite features a touch of acidity and a kiss of sweetness, creating an irresistible agro dolce (or sweet-and-sour) combo that works each and every time. It’s refreshing, visually stunning, and absolutely succulent.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
FOR THE SALSA
1 pound crowder peas or black-eyed peas, cooked, drained, and chilled
1/4 cup finely chopped Vidalia onion
2 tablespoons finely chopped red bell pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley (leaves and tender stems)
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon stone-ground mustard
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
FOR THE CRAB
6 ounces imitation crabmeat, shredded
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup finely ground yellow cornmeal
2 large green tomatoes, cut into eight 1/2-inch-thick slices
Vegetable oil for frying
To make the salsa, in a medium bowl, combine the peas, onions, bell pepper, parsley, lemon juice, oil, mustard, cumin, salt, and pepper; set aside.
In a small bowl, combine the crab and the mayonnaise; set aside. Line a baking pan with parchment paper; set aside.
To prepare the tomatoes, in a shallow bowl, combine the egg and buttermilk. Place the flour and cornmeal in 2 separate shallow dishes. Working with one slice at a time, dredge the tomatoes in the flour, dip in the egg mixture to coat on both sides, and coat each side with the cornmeal. Place the tomatoes in the parchment-lined baking pan.
Fit a large baking pan with a metal cooling rack. In a large skillet with high sides heat 1/2 inch of oil to 360° (or use a deep fryer according to the manufacturer’s directions); working in two batches, using your fingers, carefully, place the tomato slices in the oil. Fry them on both sides until golden, about 2 minutes per side (use two forks to help turn them over). Using the two forks or a slotted spoon, transfer to the prepared rack to drain.
To plate, place 1/4 of the pea salsa onto four plates, making a bed for the tomatoes. Place a slice of fried tomato on top of the salsa and top with an eighth of the crab mixture; top with a second slice of tomato and top with another eighth of the crab. Serve immediately.
NOTE * Keep the crab and peas in the refrigerator until ready to use; they may be prepared up to 1 day ahead of time. The tomatoes must be fried shortly after they’re coated with cornmeal and should be consumed immediately after frying.
My friend and colleague Elizabeth Wiegand introduced me to yellow-eyed peas. These peas are similar to black-eyed peas, but their white bodies are dressed with a golden eye of a mustardlike hue that makes them look exotic. They’re sold at the many roadside farmers’ stands that carry peas in North Carolina during the summer. I usually buy mine dried by the bucketful at a stand on Highway 211 in the Sandhills—it’s hard to resist when they are so pretty to look at and so delicious to eat. You can order them online from many sources. Tasso is the specialty smoked pork butt (shoulder) of Louisiana, and it’s the perfect partner for peas and beans. Here, it provides the peas with plenty of meaty and smoky flavor. Sofrito is a Latin American flavor base made with onions and bell peppers. I serve this New Southern–Latino rendition over a mound of fluffy white rice, with a side of collard greens and accompanied by a good medium-bodied red wine.
MAKES 6–8 SERVINGS
1 pound yellow-eyed peas, soaked overnight
3/4 pound tasso or smoked ham hock
1 bay leaf
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup finely chopped yellow onion
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 cup diced tomatoes (may use canned)
1 (7-ounce) jar diced pimientos, drained
1/2 teaspoon thyme
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or more to taste (depending on how salty the ham is)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
Place the peas, tasso, and bay leaf in a 5- to 6-quart pot set over medium-high heat and cover with cold water by 2 inches. Bring to a boil; cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 60–75 minutes or until the peas are fork-tender. Remove the bay leaf and discard. Remove the tasso and set aside until cool enough to handle.
Heat the oil in a 10-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the onion and cook until softened, about 3–4 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 20 seconds. Add the tomatoes, pimientos, thyme, salt, and pepper, and continue cooking until thickened or about 3 minutes. Shred or chop the tasso.
Add the cooked vegetables to the pot of peas and bring to a simmer over medium heat. Add the tasso. Increase the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil; reduce the heat to medium and simmer for 15 minutes or until the liquid has reduced slightly. Stir in the parsley; taste and add more salt if needed, and serve.
This creamy, sultry dip has just the right balance of tanginess and spice to please most palates. Hummus is a Middle Eastern spread that has become very trendy in the past decade, and it’s usually made with chickpeas, but purple hulls lend themselves perfectly to this unconventional treatment because they cook to a velvety consistency that makes them easy to purée. Tahini is sesame paste, with a consistency similar to peanut butter and you can find it in most grocery stores. Benne is the African word for sesame seeds, and they were introduced into the South during the African diaspora, when they were used in candies, cakes, bread, soups, and stews. Make this recipe whenever you find yourself with an abundance of peas during the summer months. It makes a great dip for crudités, and it’s also perfect substitute for mayonnaise on sandwiches. Serve it with toasted pita bread, chips, or crackers.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
3 large garlic cloves, chopped
1 pound cooked purple hull peas, drained
1/3 cup sesame seed paste (tahini)
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice, or to taste
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
Pinch cayenne pepper (optional)
In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, pulse the garlic for three (5-second) intervals. Add the purple hulls and tahini; pulse until smooth, about 10–12 (5-second) intervals, stopping to scrape down the sides of the bowl, if needed. Add the lemon juice, salt, and pepper and process until combined. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl; drizzle with the olive oil and sprinkle with cayenne pepper (if using).
NOTE * This dip will keep in the refrigerator, if well covered, for up to 5 days.
Nutty beans meet vibrant citrus and spicy chiles. Then they’re topped with sweet, plump shrimp, yielding a salad that features the colors of autumn. Speckled butter beans are among the most beautiful members of the lima bean family (Phaseolus lunatus). When dried, they are a purplish-brown color, mottled with pinkish spots. When cooked, they produce a dark pot likker, and although they lose their speckled appearance, they retain their beautiful color. It’s not as crazy to call this salad a ceviche as you may first think. The beans are cured in the same citrus and chile dressing used in traditional Peruvian ceviches, and in Latin America this qualifies as one. Ají amarillo peppers are found pickled, in jars or cans, in most Latin American stores. If you can’t find them, use fresh jalapeños instead. Shrimp are measured by how many are in one pound and the ideal shrimp for this recipe are large and plump. Not all shrimp turn pink when cooked (it depends on the variety); make sure you cook them well but take them off the grill when they begin to curl (a sign of doneness). For a vegetarian option, simply omit the shrimp.
MAKES 4 SERVINGS
FOR THE CEVICHE
1/2 pound speckled butter beans, cooked, drained, and chilled
1/2 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup chopped Vidalia onion
1/4 cup chopped cilantro (leaves and tender stems)
3 ají amarillo peppers, peeled, seeded, deveined, and chopped
1 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
24 shrimp (16–21 count)
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 large metal or bamboo skewers
To make the ceviche, in a medium bowl, combine the beans, lemon juice, onion, cilantro, ajíes, salt, and pepper; mix well and chill for at least 2 hours (up to overnight), stirring occasionally.
To prepare the shrimp, peel and devein them, leaving the tails intact. Place 6 shrimp on each skewer. In a small bowl, combine the garlic powder, cumin, salt, and pepper; sprinkle the mixture over the shrimp, making sure to coat them well. Heat an outdoor grill or indoor grill pan until very hot. Grill the shrimp for 3 minutes on the first side or until they’ve turned opaque; turn and grill for 3–4 more minutes or until cooked through. Transfer the bean ceviche to a large platter and top with the shrimp skewers.
This recipe reminds me of lazy days dining in the French Quarter of New Orleans, where French, Creole, and Cajun flavors embrace each other in dishes filled with spices. In this dish, each bite offers a hint of sweetness hidden among the bold flavors that pleasantly surprises the palate. Spicy, creamy, hearty, and buttery, beans prepared this way are the perfect topping for fluffy rice, and perhaps that’s why they’re often served this way. Lima beans are so maligned, and it’s too bad because they can truly be some of the most delectable legumes you will ever eat. I love their velvety texture, the way they melt in the mouth, and how they absorb seasonings as they cook. This recipe is an excellent dish for entertaining, so luxurious and elegant that you will be proud to serve it to your most esteemed guests.
MAKES 4–6 SERVINGS
1 pound dried white lima beans, cleaned of debris
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 cups chopped Vidalia onion
1 1/2 cups chopped red bell pepper
6 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
12 sprigs fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried
12 ounces andouille sausage (or Spanish chorizo), cut into bite-size pieces
1/2 pound green beans (such as Blue Lakes), trimmed and cut crosswise into thirds
1/2 cup chicken broth or water
1 1/2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
4–6 cups cooked long-grain white rice
Place the lima beans in a large bowl and cover them with cold water; soak overnight (or at least 6 hours).
Drain and rinse the lima beans and place them in a 6-to 8-quart pot. Add enough cold water to cover the beans by 3 inches and bring to a boil over medium-high heat, skimming off the foam that rises to the top. Reduce the heat to medium and continue simmering the beans (replenishing the water with more boiling water, as needed, to keep them covered by 3 inches) for 45–60 minutes or until fork-tender. Drain and rinse the beans under cold running water and set aside.
In a 12-inch skillet with high sides (or in a large pot), heat the oil over medium-high heat. Add the onion and bell pepper, cooking until softened, about 3–4 minutes. Add the garlic and thyme, and cook for 20 seconds or until fragrant. Add the sausage and cook, stirring constantly, for 3–4 minutes or until the sausage begins to turn golden and has rendered its fat. Add the green beans and cook for 1 minute to set the color. Add the lima beans and broth and bring to a boil, making sure to scrape the bottom of the pan well to deglaze the pan. Add the salt and pepper; cover, reduce the heat to low, and cook for 15 minutes. If using fresh thyme, remove the sprigs now, and adjust the seasonings to your liking. Right before serving, stir in the butter, just until melted. Serve in bowls over the rice.
This smoky and savory salad is a great side dish to serve with barbecue. The creamy and lemony dressing coats every single ingredient, making each bite as delicious as the last. Green beans, potatoes, and bacon often go hand in hand in southern cuisine, and most often, you’ll find them served steaming hot from the pot. I adore potato salads in all their guises, so I came up with a way of combining the same elements and transforming them into this cold dish. Let’s face it, everything tastes better with bacon, and this salad is no exception. In order to enhance the smokiness of the bacon, I incorporate another favorite ingredient of mine, one that has become quite trendy in the last few years: smoked Spanish paprika. Also known as pimentón, it’s often paired with potatoes. I recommend adding the bacon just before you serve this salad so that it retains its crunch.
MAKES 8–10 SERVINGS
2 1/2 pounds new potatoes
1 pound green beans (such as Blue Lakes), trimmed
1 cup mayonnaise
Zest of 2 lemons
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice, or to taste
1/4 cup sour cream
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
1 teaspoon sweet, smoked Spanish paprika
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
1 pound thick-cut bacon slices
1/4 cup minced chives
Place the potatoes in a 6- to 8-quart pot or Dutch oven. Add enough cold water to cover the potatoes by 2–3 inches and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook until the potatoes are fork-tender, about 20–22 minutes, reducing the heat to medium if the water is boiling over. Remove the potatoes with a slotted spoon and set them in a bowl to cool for about 30 minutes, leaving the water in the pot and adding more water to fill it again.
Fill a large bowl with iced water. Bring the pot of water to a rolling boil and add the green beans; boil until tender, about 6 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge them into the iced water to stop the cooking; cool completely, drain again, and set aside.
Peel the potatoes, cut them into bite-size pieces, and place them in a large bowl. Cut the green beans crosswise into thirds and add them to the potatoes.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the mayonnaise, lemon zest, lemon juice, sour cream, salt, paprika, and pepper. Add the dressing to the vegetables and toss well to coat; cover with plastic wrap and chill for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 days.
About 30 minutes before serving, preheat the oven to 350° and line a large baking pan with parchment paper.
Place the bacon slices side by side on the pan and bake for 15–18 minutes or until crispy. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels to drain off the fat; when cool, chop it coarsely. Adjust the seasonings in the salad, if needed. Stir in the bacon and the chives.
NOTE * Cold food tastes blander to our palate than hot food, so always taste cold food before serving, as it will often need to be slightly reseasoned.
My friend Jill Warren Lucas is a fabulous writer and cook. One of her fields of expertise is canning, so I asked her to develop a special recipe for this book and she kindly created this great rendition of a southern favorite. Jill says that it’s best to make these zingy pickled green beans during the summer, when they are at their brightest green and very crisp; it’s also the time of year when they’re inexpensive and widely available at local farmers’ markets. She warns that unless the best beans are used, these won’t retain their beautiful or “magical snap.” Canning salt can be found in grocery stores and shops that carry canning supplies. Do not substitute any other type of salt. Jill says that the longer you wait to eat these beans, the tastier they’ll be. These are addictive, and in my house, they don’t last long.
MAKES 4 PINTS
2 pounds green beans
2 1/2 cups white vinegar
1 cup water
6 tablespoons canning salt (don’t use any other kind of salt)
4 large cloves garlic
4 large sprigs fresh dill
4 whole red chiles, such as chile de árbol
Sterilize four pint jars and soften four fresh lids in very hot water.
Rinse and dry the green beans, removing any that look bruised. Snap the base off of each bean and keep the delicate top, arranging them in separate piles of long and short ones. Beans that are about 4 1/4 inches tall will stand perfectly in a pint jar and allow enough head room for safe canning; shorter ones are ideal for filling in the gaps.
Bring the vinegar, water, and canning salt to a simmer in a medium pan. Stir until all of the salt is dissolved; keep warm on low heat.
Break the garlic cloves in half and place 2 halves at the bottom of each jar. Tear the dill sprigs in half. Holding a jar at an angle, lay one piece of dill and one chile along the inside. Fill with green beans, starting with the longer beans and filling in the gaps with the shorter ones. Before the jar is filled, place the other piece of dill on the other side of the jar. Repeat with the other jars. Keep pressing the remaining beans in into each jar. You want a snug fit to avoid floaters.
Pour the hot vinegar mixture over the beans to fill the jars, leaving about 1 inch of head space. Wipe the rims and apply the lids and rings, then process in a water bath for 10 minutes.
Remove the jars to a heatproof surface and cool completely before moving. Store them at room temperature for up to a year in a cool, dark place. Let the mixture to do its work for at least three weeks before eating.
Virginia Willis is one of the most accomplished southern chefs I know and the author of Bon Appetit Y’all. Her style of cooking brings together the foodways of the South with the flavors of France, where she lived while attending the La Varenne Cooking School under the tutelage of Anne Willan. Virginia is also a very dear friend of mine, and despite the distance that separates us, our love of food keeps us close. There is nothing we enjoy more than to cook for each other and sit around a family table to enjoy good food whenever we can. This is my adaptation of one of her recipes. She recommends using the best haricots verts that you can find for this recipe, but I find that young Blue Lake beans also work great. When we get together, we blend our cultures at the table. I love these green beans paired with a grilled salmon and creamy grits enhanced with roasted poblano pepper strips and good melting cheese.
MAKES 4–6 SERVINGS
1 tablespoon salt (plus more, to taste)
1 1/2 pounds haricots verts
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large clove garlic, minced
2 large plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
15 pitted Kalamata olives, cut in half
1 tablespoon minced parsley
2 tablespoons minced basil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Fill a large bowl with iced water; set aside. Fill a large pot with water and bring it to a boil over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the salt; allow the water to return to a boil. Add the beans and cook until al dente, about 3–4 minutes. Drain and immediately plunge them into the iced water to stop the cooking; cool completely, drain again, and set aside.
Heat the oil in the same pot over low heat. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add the haricot verts, tomatoes, olives, parsley, and basil; toss to combine. Add the vinegar and stir well. Season with salt and pepper and serve hot, at room temperature, or chilled.
Perfectly crispy and bright green Blue Lake beans start to make an appearance in early June, and although these are not considered southern beans, they are the most commonly found in grocery stores in the South. I love them cooked and buttered or drenched in vinaigrette. Platters of scantily dressed vegetables are a common sight on southern tables, particularly during the hot summer months, when they are in season. For the most part, cooks give summer vegetables an effortless treatment: tomatoes are simply sliced, corn is just boiled, and young green beans are cooked simply. Here, I quickly pickle them with a classic vinaigrette. If you grow your own beans or frequent farmers’ markets, choose the youngest possible green beans that snap when bent.
MAKES 6 SERVINGS
2 pounds green beans (such as Blue Lakes)
1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/4 cup minced shallots
1 garlic clove, minced
3/4 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Trim the stem side of the beans, leaving the tips intact. Bring 2 quarts of water to a boil in a large pot over high heat. Fill a bowl with iced water. Drop the beans into the pot and bring the water back to a boil; cook until al dente, about 6–8 minutes. Remove the beans with a slotted spoon and quickly transfer to the iced water; cool for 10 minutes. Drain the beans and set aside.
In a medium bowl, whisk together the vinegar, mustard, parsley, shallots, garlic, salt, and pepper. Slowly whisk in the oil in a thin stream until the dressing becomes creamy.
Toss the beans with the dressing and arrange them on a platter; spoon any remaining dressing over the beans and serve.
Few chefs have done more for contemporary southern cuisine than Ben and Karen Barker. Together, at Magnolia Grill, their legendary restaurant in Durham, North Carolina, they treated gourmands to a new style of southern food and soon after introduced it to the world. Their pioneering approach, which celebrated local produce and catapulted the region’s farm-to-fork movement, proved that southern cuisine was all grown-up and could be as elegant as any other prized cuisine. They used classic, seasonal southern ingredients in innovative and groundbreaking ways while mentoring a group of chefs that continue to change the way that new southern food is prepared today. I chose this recipe to close this chapter because although, sadly, Magnolia Grill has closed its doors after almost twenty years, the culinary revolution that the Barkers began continues.
MAKES APPROXIMATELY 1 DOZEN
FOR THE BUTTER BEAN PURÉE
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/4 cup sliced shallots
1 bay leaf, preferably fresh
8 ounces fresh or frozen butter beans
Approximately 1 3/4 cups vegetable or chicken stock (or enough to cover beans)
2 tablespoons roasted garlic purée (see Note)
Finely grated zest of 2 lemons
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup herbs of your choice, chopped (we like a mixture of marjoram, Italian parsley, and basil)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 baguette, sliced 1/2 inch thick on a slight bias
1/4 cup olive oil
Additional herbs for garnishing
To make the butter bean purée, heat the olive oil in a medium sauté pan. Add the sliced shallots and bay leaf. Sauté the shallots until soft. Add the butter beans and enough stock to just cover them. Bring to a simmer, reduce the heat, and cook until the beans are tender, adding a bit more stock if necessary. Cool completely over an ice bath. Remove the bay leaf.
Roughly purée the butter beans in a food processor, pulsing. Do not overprocess—they should retain a bit of texture. Add the roasted garlic purée, lemon zest, extra-virgin olive oil, herbs, salt, and pepper. Pulse to combine. Refrigerate if not using immediately. Bring to room temperature before assembling the crostini. This is best made shortly before using, as the color has a tendency to turn if prepared too far in advance.
To assemble the crostini, brush the baguette slices with the oil on both sides. Grill or toast the bread until golden brown. Slather it generously with butter bean purée and sprinkle with additional herbs.
NOTE * To make the roasted garlic purée, heat the oven to 350°. Toss the unpeeled cloves of 4 heads of garlic with olive oil, wrap them tightly in foil, and bake for 35–45 minutes or until the garlic is soft. Cool slightly, peel, and purée; cover with a film of olive oil and keep in the refrigerator until ready to use.
From Not Afraid of Flavor: Recipes from Magnolia Grill, by Ben and Karen Barker. © 2000 Ben and Karen Barker. Used by permission of the University of North Carolina Press.