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Welcome to Belize City

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By Lan Sluder

Belize City is more of a town than a city—few of the ramshackle buildings here are taller than a palm tree, and the official population within the city limits is barely over 50,000, though the metro population is near 90,000. Not far beyond the city center, streets give way to two-lane country roads where animals outnumber people. Any dining room downtown could leave the impression that everybody knows everybody else in this town, and certainly among the elite who can afford to dine out, that’s probably true.

On a map Belize City appears to be an ideal base for exploring the central part of the country—it’s two hours or less by car to San Ignacio, Corozal Town, Dangriga, and even less to Altun Ha, Belmopan, and the Belize Zoo. However, many old Belize hands will advise you to get out of Belize City as quickly as you can. They point to the high crime rate and to drugs and gang activity. They also note the relative lack of attractions in Belize City. There are no good beaches in or near the city, except for one man-made beach at the Old Belize facility west of town, built to attract cruise-ship visitors. Although you can sometimes spot manatees and porpoises in the harbor, and birding around the city is surprisingly good, this is not the wild rain forest visitors come to see.

All of that is true enough, and certainly any visitor to Belize City should take the usual precautions for travel in an impoverished urban area, which includes always taking a cab at night (and in rough parts of the city anytime), but Belize City does have an energy and excitement to it. There are good restaurants, including the best Chinese and Indian food in the country, a vibrant arts community, and, outside some of the rougher parts of town on the South Side, nice residential areas and a number of pleasant hotels and B&Bs. Belize City offers the most varied shopping in the country, and it’s the only place to find sizeable supermarkets, department stores, and the Belizean version of big box stores. There is always some little treasure to be discovered in a shop with mostly junk. All in all, it’s far more interesting than any modern mall.

Belize City also has an easygoing sociability. People meet on the street, talk, joke, laugh, and debate. Despite the Belize City streetscape’s sometimes sketchy appearance, people in the shops and on the street tend to be friendly, polite, and helpful.

If you haven’t spent time in Belize City, you simply won’t understand Belize. Belize City is the commercial, social, sports, and cultural hub of the country. It’s even the political hub, despite the fact that the capital, Belmopan, is an hour west. The current prime minister, Dean Barrow, a lawyer who came to power in 2008, former prime ministers including Said Musa, many of the other ministers, and nearly all of the country’s movers and shakers live in or near Belize City.

One longtime Belize resident says that despite its problems she enjoys making day trips to the city and always encourages visitors to spend some time there: “Being a landlubber, I enjoy the boats, seabirds, and smell of the salt air, and of course the Swing Bridge, watching the fishermen on fishing boats sell their fish, and seeing what fish and sea creatures are for sale in the market. When I first came here I was amazed at the fish and meat stalls, at how they were out in the open, and weren’t refrigerated like back home. I think it’s good for tourists to see that there are other ways of living than what they are used to. Isn’t that the point of traveling?”

Still—and we can’t overemphasize this—you do have to be careful, as crime is not limited just to certain areas: When you’re in Belize City, bring your street smarts and exercise caution at all times.

Top Reasons to Go

Great Photo Ops. Belize City is highly photogenic, full of interesting faces, streets full of color, and charming old colonial houses. In short, Belize City has character.

Colonial Architecture. Belize City rewards the intrepid traveler with a surprising number of interesting sights and memorable places, among them the everyday colonial-era buildings in the Fort George and Southern Foreshore sections, where people still live and work. For the most part, buildings are wood, with tin or zinc roofs. Many are in need of a bit of repair, but they still ooze Caribbean port-of-call atmosphere.

Because You Have To. As a visitor to Belize, you’ll almost certainly have to spend a little time in Belize City, whether you like it or not. The international airport is in Ladyville, at the northern edge of the metropolitan area. Belize City is the transportation hub of the country, and most flights, buses, and car rentals originate here. If you’re arriving late or leaving early, you’ll have to overnight in or near the city. Make the best of it. Take care, but explore and enjoy the city.

Getting Oriented

If you’re prepared to go beyond a cursory excursion, Belize City will repay your curiosity. There’s an infectious sociability on streets like Albert and Queen, the main shopping strips. The finest British colonial houses—graceful white buildings with wraparound verandas, painted shutters, and fussy Victorian woodwork—are in the Fort George area, near the Radisson Fort George, the most pleasant part of the city for a stroll.

Fort George. The “colonial” section of Belize City is notable for its grand, if sometimes dilapidated, old 19th- and early-20th-century homes and buildings.

Marine Parade Harbor Front. Along the water near the Princess Hotel & Casino and BTL Park, there is more open, public space than there are buildings, making this a pleasant escape from the bustle of the city center.

The Commercial District. On the South Side, mainly on Albert and Regent streets, this is the commercial center of the city. Be advised, however, that it is also near some of the worst slums in Belize.

King’s Park. Upscale residences line the streets near Princess Margaret Drive, about 2 miles (3 km) north of the city center.

The Northern Suburbs. Along the Philip Goldson Highway (formerly the Northern Highway) between the city center and the international airport, this is the fastest-growing part of the metropolitan area, with middle-class residential sections such as Buttonwood Bay and Belama, some of the city’s stores and supermarkets, and several hotels and B&Bs.

The Western Suburbs. A few tourist attractions have popped up here, such as the Old Belize complex. This multiuse commercial and residential area along the George Price Highway (until late 2012 called the Western Highway), beginning at “Boot Hill” on Cemetery Road at the intersection of Central American Boulevard, is also on the way to the Belize Zoo, Belmopan, and Cayo.

Planning

When to Go

As with the rest of Belize, the most pleasant time to visit Belize City is in the winter and early spring, December to March or April, when it’s cooler and drier—similar to South Florida at that same time of year. The average high temperature in Belize City is 86.2°F, and the average low is 72.6°F. The coolest month is January, and the hottest is May. Hotel rates drop in the off-season, typically from just after Easter to U.S. Thanksgiving. September, a month marked by St. George’s Caye Day (September 10) and Belize Independence Day (September 21), sees celebrations and parties; many expatriated Belizeans return home then for a visit to see family and friends. However, September is also peak time for tropical storms and hurricanes in the western Caribbean. September and October are the slowest months for tourism in Belize, and some hotels and restaurants close during this time for maintenance or to allow owners to take their own vacations.

Getting Here and Around

Air Travel

Philip S. W. Goldson International Airport (BZE) is near Ladyville, 9 miles (14 km) north of the city. The international airport is served from U.S. gateways by American (some American flights from Miami operate as a codeshare with British Air), United, Delta, TACA, and US Airways. Tropic Air has flights between the international airport and Flores, Guatemala, gateway to Tikal, and on to Guatemala City.

In addition to international flights, a domestic terminal at the international airport has flights on Maya Island Air and Tropic Air to Ambergris Caye and Caye Caulker and the coastal towns of Dangriga, Placencia, and Punta Gorda. Tropic Air also has flights from the international airport to Maya Flats airstrip near San Ignacio and to Belmopan. A Maya Island flight goes to Savannah airstrip at Independence across the lagoon from Placencia.

The Belize City municipal airport, on the seafront about 1 mile (2 km) north of the city center, has domestic flights only; Maya Island Air and Tropic Air serve most of the same domestic destinations from here as from the international airport. Fares from the municipal airport are about 10% to 40% cheaper, depending on the destination, than similar flights departing from the international airport.

Bus Travel

To and from Belize City

Belize City is the hub of the country’s fairly extensive bus network, so there’s service to most regions of Belize and limited service by foreign bus companies to Mexico and Guatemala. The main bus terminal on West Collet Canal Street in Belize City—still locally referred to as Novelo’s, though the Novelo’s bus company is no more—is used by most regional companies on the George Price Highway routes, the Goldson Highway routes, and the Hummingbird and Southern highways routes. Many of these are small, owner-operated bus lines.TIP Take a cab to or from the Belize City bus terminal, as it is not in a safe area.

From Belize City. Service on the main routes north, west, and south is frequent and inexpensive. Most of the buses are old Bluebird school buses from the U.S., with cramped seating and no air-conditioning.

The fare from Belize City to San Ignacio is BZ$7, and to Corozal Town BZ$9; express buses, when available, are BZ$2 or BZ$3 more.

For those going to Flores, Guatemala, or Chetumal, Mexico, three Guatemalan bus lines, Fuente del Norte, Linea Dorada, and San Juan, have daily service from the Marine Terminal near the Swing Bridge. Rates from Belize City to Flores are around BZ$50–BZ$60. Fuente del Norte and Linea Dorada generally have the best equipment and service.

The Mexican bus line ADO (www.ado.com.mx) runs daily express service between Cancún and Belize City, with stops at Playa del Carmen, Tulum, Corozal Town, and Orange Walk Town. The overnight service, departing from both Cancún and Belize City in the evening and arriving about eight hours later in the early morning, is handy for those flying into or out of Cancún, an option that usually offers lower fares than flying to and from the international airport near Belize City. Service is on modern Mercedes buses with air-conditioning, reclining seats, bathrooms, and videos. ADO also added Mérida–Belize City service. In Belize City, ADO uses the Novelo’s terminal on West Collet Canal.

Belize Bus and Travel Guide (belizebus.wordpress.com) is a good site for up-to-date information on bus and other travel in Belize.

Contacts
Belize City Main Bus Terminal (Locally called Novelo’s) | W. Collet Canal St.

Within Belize City. There is now limited bus service within Belize City on Lopez, Arrow Line, Haylock, Lemott, and other independent lines. Fares are BZ$1–BZ$2 depending on the route and the bus line. Again, many of the buses are old U.S. school buses, but some are modern mini-buses, and the Arrow Line buses are air-conditioned. Ask locally about routes and times, as there are few if any published schedules. Also, local nonexpress regional buses will stop and drop off most anywhere in or near the city on the standard route. For example, if you’re going from West Collet Canal terminal downtown to Brodie’s supermarket on the Goldson Highway just north of downtown, you can take a non-express bus going to Orange Walk Town or Corozal Town and be dropped off at or near Brodie’s.

Car Travel

To and from Belize City

There are only two highways to Belize City: the Philip Goldson Highway, which stretches to the Mexican border, 102 miles (165 km) away, and the George Price Highway, which runs 81 miles (131 km) to Guatemala. Both are paved and in fair to good condition. Signs guide you to nearby destinations such as the Belize Zoo.

In Belize City with a Car

Finding your way around the city itself can be confusing. With rare exceptions hotels in and near the city center offer mostly on-street parking, and you run the risk of a break-in if you leave the car overnight. Hotels in the suburbs north and west of the city usually have fenced or otherwise secured parking. Give your nerves a break and explore the city by taxi or on foot by day in safer sections like the Fort George area.

If you’re driving between western and northern Belize, say from Belmopan to Orange Walk Town, you can take the Burrell Boom bypass around Belize City. The bypass runs between the roundabout on the George Price Highway at Hattieville at Mile 15.5 and Mile 13 of the Philip Goldson Highway. The bypass, completely paved, is about 11½ miles (18½ km) in length; it saves you about 17 miles (28 km) and about a half hour of driving time.

If you are traveling by car from Belize City to one of the northern cayes, you won’t be able to take your vehicle, so you’ll need a safe place to park. Shorter term parking is also available at the international airport lot for BZ$18 a night.

Contacts
Edgar’s Mini Storage. If you need to park your vehicle safely for a few days while you’re at one of the northern cayes, one good choice is Edgar’s Mini Storage, about an hour from the airport. Bring your own lock and park your car or truck in a covered storage unit, or outside in a fenced lot. Rates vary depending on the size of the vehicle. Free transport to the international airport is provided. | 894 Vista del Mar, | Ladyville | 602/4513 | www.edgarsministorage.com.

Taxi Travel

Cabs cost BZ$7–BZ$10 for one person between any two points in the city, plus BZ$1 for each additional person. Outside the city, and from downtown to the suburbs, you’ll be charged by distance traveled. Traveling between the international airport and any point in the city (including the businesses and hotels along the Northern Highway) is BZ$50 (for the taxi, not per person). There are no meters, so be sure to agree on a price before you leave. Authorized taxis have green license plates. You can find taxis in the Market Square area near the Swing Bridge and at the Novelo’s bus terminal, or hotels will call them for you (preferred, since the hotel people know the dependable drivers). Otherwise, for pickup, call Cinderella Plaza Taxi Stand if you are in the downtown area or Belcan Taxi Stand if you are on the north end of the city.

Contacts
Belcan Taxi Stand. | 223/2916.
Cinderella Plaza Taxi Stand. | Freetown Rd., near Douglas Jones St. | 223/0371, 223/1612.

Water Travel

To and from Belize City

You can travel from Belize City on fast boats that hold up to 50 or 100 passengers to San Pedro (Ambergris Caye) and Caye Caulker. The boats also connect San Pedro and Caye Caulker. Caye Caulker Water Taxi boats (which also go to San Pedro) depart from the Marine Terminal at 10 North Front Street near the Swing Bridge; San Pedro Belize Express boats (which also go to Caulker) leave from the nearby Brown Sugar dock at 111 North Front Street near the Tourism Village; Water Jets International boats, also confusingly known as San Pedro Water Jets Express, leave from the Marine Terminal at 10 North Front Street.

From Belize City it’s a 45-minute ride to Caye Caulker and a 75-minute trip to San Pedro. Going between Caye Caulker and San Pedro takes about 30 minutes. One-way fares between Belize City and Caye Caulker are BZ$20–BZ$24. Between Belize City and San Pedro, fares are BZ$30–BZ$35.

Each service has boats departing every couple of hours during daylight hours. Current schedules and prices are on the operators’ websites, but are subject to frequent change.

The Tropic Ferry, a private service, picks you up at the international airport and transports you to a dock in Ladyville near the airport, and then on to your waterfront resort destination on Ambergris Caye. Fares are around BZ$170 per person one-way, and the whole trip takes about 90 minutes; advanced reservations required. There is no scheduled daily water-taxi service from Belize City to Placencia or other points south, nor to remote cayes. A weekly boat, Pride of Belize, stops at Dangriga enroute to Puerto Cortes, Honduras.

Emergencies

Karl Heusner Memorial, a public hospital, is the main medical center in the country. It offers generally competent and affordable care, though for serious injuries and illnesses many Belizeans who can afford it prefer to go to Miami or Houston or to Mexico or Guatemala. Belize Medical Associates and Belize Healthcare Partners are small private hospitals. Karl Heusner Memorial and Belize Medical Associates have 24-hour emergency rooms. Brodie’s Pharmacy, at Market Square and on the Northern Highway, is open daily (hours vary). Belize Medical Associates Pharmacy has a pharmacist on call 24 hours.

In an emergency, dial 911. In Belize City only, for ambulance and fire, dial 90.

Money Matters

U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere in Belize, but if you need to exchange another currency, you can do so at one of the five banks in Belize City: Heritage Bank, Atlantic Bank, Belize Bank, First Caribbean International Bank, and ScotiaBank. All banks in Belize City have ATMs (Belize Bank has the largest number of ATMs), and, except for ATMs of Heritage Bank, all now accept cards issued outside Belize. If your ATM card has a Visa, MasterCard, PLUS, or CIRRUS symbol, it will work in at least some Belize ATMs, and you can generally withdraw up to BZ$500 a day. You get your cash in Belize dollars only. Note that other banks you may see in Belize City are international—that is, offshore—banks that do not offer local banking services.

Tours

From Belize City you can take day trips to Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary to nearby islands, including Caulker and Ambergris cayes, either on your own or with a local tour operator. Your hotel can also arrange day trips. Keep in mind that most Belize City tour operators focus more on the cruise-ship market than on individual travelers. Some cruise-ship tour operators, while generally reputable, have no office and operate with a website and a cell phone, meeting customers at the Tourism Village.

Action Boys Belize focuses on land tours for the cruise ship market in Belize City. It offers zip-lining, cave tubing, Belize Zoo, Altun Ha, Baboon Sanctuary, and other trips. Combined zip-line and cave-tubing tours start at around BZ$170 per person. Cruise passengers are met at Tourism Village where the cruise tenders dock.

Belize Trips’ Katie Valk, a transplanted New Yorker, can organize a custom trip to almost any place in the country and also to Tikal in Guatemala. With her hotel connections she can even get you a room when everything seems booked. She’s also a warden for the U.S. Embassy.

Cave Tubing

Several Belize City–based tour operators, including Action Boys Belize and Discovery Expeditions, cater to the cruise-ship day-trippers with cave tubing trips for around BZ$120–BZ$140 per person. Cave tubing and zip-line combo tours are around BZ$180–$200 per person. These tours usually include lunch.

Mayan Ruins

Tour operators based in Belize City, including S&L Travel and Tours, Action Boys Belize, and Discovery Expeditions, which mostly cater to cruise ships, offer day trips by road, boat, or air to Lamanai (around BZ$200) and by road to Altun Ha (BZ$75–BZ$90), and also by road to Xunantunich and Cahal Pech near San Ignacio. The tours to San Ignacio (BZ$200 and up) may be combined with a stop at the Belize Zoo or cave tubing and zip-lining at Caves Branch. Discovery Expeditions, Action Boys Belize, and S&L Travel and Tours can arrange tours to Tikal starting at around BZ$700 per person.

Visitor Information

Belize Tourism Board. | 64 Regent St. | 227/2420, 800/624–0686 | www.travelbelize.org | Mon.–Thurs. 8–5, Fri. 8–4.

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