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Corozal Town | Copper Bank | Sarteneja
Corozal Bay, or Chetumal Bay as it’s called on most maps, has tropically green and turquoise waters. It provides a beautiful waterside setting for Corozal Town and a number of villages along the north side of Corozal District. Tarpon, bonefish, permit, and other game fish are not hard to find. The drawback is that there are few natural beaches in Corozal District, although some hotels have trucked in sand to build human-assisted beach areas. Also, there’s no good snorkeling or diving locally, and the Belize Barrier Reef is several long hours away by boat. However, the Mexican border and the outskirts of the city of Chetumal are only 9 miles (14½ km) away. Chetumal, capital of Quintana Roo state, with a modern mall, big-box stores such as Walmart and Sam’s Warehouse, and air-conditioned multiplex movie theaters, provides a bustling counterpoint to small, easygoing Corozal.
At the border, the Commercial Free Zone (usually called the Corozal Free Zone, though that’s not its official name) promises duty-free goods and cheap gas. The reality is a little less appealing. Most of the duty-free items are cheap trinkets from China and Taiwan, and the gasoline, while one-third cheaper than in Belize, is more expensive than in Mexico. Plus, to sample the questionable enticements of the Free Zone, visitors have to formally exit Belize, paying exit taxes and fees totaling BZ$37.50 per person.
Casinos have sprung up on the Belize side of the border, at the edge of the Commercial Free Zone. There are three casinos: the Princess Casino, the larger Royal Princess Casino (both associated with the Princess Hotel & Casino in Belize City), and the largest of the three, the Las Vegas Casino. The Las Vegas casino has 54,000 square feet of gaming area, making it, according to management, the largest in Central America. In addition to more than 300 slot machines, plus blackjack, roulette, and poker, the casino has gaming areas designed to appeal to visitors from Asia, with Pai Gow, mah-jongg, and other games. There’s also a private club area for high rollers from Mexico and elsewhere. The casinos are busy on weekends, but the crowds thin out during the week.
Corozal Town
95 miles (153 km) north of Belize City.
Settled by refugees from the Yucatán during the 19th-century Caste Wars, Corozal is the last town before Río Hondo, the river separating Belize from Mexico. Though thoroughly ignored by today’s travelers, this friendly town is great for a few days of easy living. It’s hard not to fall into the laid-back lifestyle here—a sign at the entrance of a local grocery used to advertise “Strong rum, 55 Belize dollars a gallon.”
English is the official language in Corozal, but Spanish is just as common here. The town was largely rebuilt after Hurricane Janet nearly destroyed it in 1955. Many houses are clapboard, built on wooden piles, and other houses are simple concrete-block structures, though the growing clan of expats is putting up new houses that wouldn’t look out of place in Florida. One of the few remaining 19th-century colonial-era buildings is a portion of the old fort in the center of town, now the Corozal House of Culture.
Getting Here and Around
Corozal Town is the last stop on the Goldson Highway before the Mexico border. There’s frequent bus service from early morning to early evening on the Goldson Highway from Belize City. Maya Island Air and Tropic Air have a total of around 10 daily flights to San Pedro, Ambergris Caye (a couple of flights stop in Sarteneja on demand), but no other scheduled air service. A daily water taxi operated by San Pedro-Belize Express Water Taxi runs between Corozal Town and San Pedro with a stop on demand at Sarteneja.
Contacts
Maya Island Air. | 223/1140 | www.mayaislandair.com.
Tropic Air. | San Pedro Airstrip, | San Pedro | 226/2012 | www.tropicair.com.
Timing
Although from your base in Corozal Town you can make day trips to the ruins at Cerros and Lamanai, the main activity for visitors in Corozal is simply relaxing and hanging out.
Safety and Precautions
Corozal Town and the rural parts of the district are among the safer places in Belize, but crack cocaine has made its ugly appearance here (police seem oddly unable to find and close down the crack houses), which is one reason petty thefts are an issue.
ADO Bus Line.
ADO is the main bus line providing service between Cancún/Playa del Carmen and Chetumal. It also also has express service between Belize City and Cancún, with stops in Corozal, Orange Walk Town, Chetumal, and elsewhere. | ADO Bus Terminal, Av. Insurgentes and Av. Belice | Chetumal, Quintana Roo, Mexico | 800/009–9090 | www.ado.com.mx.
Exploring
Commercial Free Zone.
About 300 wholesale and retail companies are located in the Corozal Commercial Free Zone/Zona Libre Belice on the Belize side of the Belize-Mexico border. Visitors may find some bargains on clothing and household items imported from Asia, along with discounted gasoline and liquor, though the retail stores target Mexicans rather than U.S. or other international tourists. Three casinos also target the Mexican market, especially on weekends. Visitors going from Belize to the Free Zone must may the BZ$37.50 exit fee, which cuts into any savings on gas or merchandise, and pay duties on goods (especially liquor) brought back into Belize. | 1 Freedom Ave., Belize-Mexico Border | Corozal | 423/7010 | www.belizecorozalfreezone.com.
Corozal House of Culture.
The old Corozal Cultural Centre was completely renovated and reopened in 2012 as the Corozal House of Culture. Located in one of the oldest buildings in northern Belize (other than ancient Mayan structures), the House of Culture was built in 1886. It’s operated by the National Institute of History and Culture (NICH) as an art gallery, museum devoted to the history of Corozal Town and northern Belize, and visitor information center. NICH operates three other Culture museums in Belize City, Orange Walk Town, and Benque Viejo. | 1st Ave., near Corozal Bay | 422/0071 | www.nichbelize.org | Weekdays 8–5.
Corozal Town Hall.
The history of Corozal, including a graphic portrayal of the brutality of colonial rule on the indigenous people, is depicted in a strikingly beautiful mural by Manuel Villamor Reyes on the wall of the Corozal Town Hall. | 1st St. South | 422/2072 | Free | Weekdays 9–noon and 1–5.
Gabrielle Hoare Market.
This market on 6th Avenue has stalls selling a good selection of local fruits and vegetables. | 6th Ave. | Mon.–Sat. 6:30–5:30, Sun. 6:30–3.
Santa Rita.
Not far from Corozal are several Mayan sites. The closest, Santa Rita, is a short walk from the town’s center. It’s on a low hill across from the Coca-Cola plant at the north end of town. Only a few of its structures have been excavated, so it takes some imagination to picture this settlement, founded around 1500 BC, as one of the district’s major trading centers. The government of Belize in 2012 designated Santa Rita as an official “Wedding Gardens of Belize,” and there are plans for facilities for weddings. In December 2012, a reenactment of the wedding of Tzazil-Ha, a Mayan princess, and Gonzalo Guerrero, a Spanish conquistador, was held here. At this writing the Belize Institute of Archeology has plans to build a visitor center. | Santa Rita, near Corozal Hospital and Coca-Cola plant | Free.
Where to Eat
Fodor’s Choice | Corozo Blue’s.
PIZZA | A new addition to Corozal, this eatery in a pleasant stone building on the bay at the South End serves excellent wood-fired pizza, burgers, sandwiches, and ceviche, plus a few traditional Belizean dishes like rice and beans. By Corozal standards, prices are on the high side, but the atmosphere, bayside setting, and friendly staff make it well worth a visit. | Average main: BZ$25 | Goldson Hwy., South End | 422/0090 | corozoblues.com.
Miss June’s Kitchen.
ECLECTIC | The best breakfast in Corozal is served by Miss June at her home. There is seating for only about a dozen guests in an open-air patio. Everything is homemade, freshly prepared, and served by Miss June and her family. You can have a delicious breakfast of an omelette, peppery sausage, fried potatoes and freshly squeezed orange juice with whole wheat bread for about BZ$10. Lunch featuring conch and other local dishes is available, but breakfast is the stand-out. | Average main: BZ$12 | 3rd Street S | 422/2559 | Closed Sun. No dinner.
Patty’s Bistro.
LATIN AMERICAN | Patty’s Bistro (sometimes spelled Patti’s) serves some of the best food in town, the service is sprightly and friendly, the atmosphere is no-frills, and prices are low. For a local treat, try the hearty conch soup. | Average main: BZ$12 | 2nd St. N. | 402/0174 | Closed Sun.
Venke’s Kabob Corner.
INDIAN | For takeout curries and other Indian food at modest prices, Venke’s is the spot. It’s run by an Indian who formerly was a chef at the Las Vegas Casino in the Free Zone in Belize and at a leading Belize City Indian restaurant. As for atmosphere, Venke’s has none, but the delicious curries come in servings big enough for two, with rice and tortillas on the side. Also try the excellent chicken tikka masala. | Average main: BZ$15 | 5th Ave. South, across from Immigration office | 402/0536 | No credit cards.
Where to Stay
Fodor’s Choice | Almond Tree Hotel Resort.
RESORT | Directly on the bay just south of town, Almond Tree Hotel Resort raises the bar on Corozal Town lodging. In your air-conditioned room or suite, you’ll enjoy original artwork on the walls and high-thread count cotton sheets on the beds. The high ceilings are beamed, and floors are acid-stained concrete finished with beautiful colors. From the first-floor deck and second-floor balconies you have views of town and also the Cerros Maya site across the bay. There’s an attractive pool and a small sandy beach area. The choicest digs are the large suite with separate living room and panoramic views of the bay. The restaurant has limited hours and requires advance notice for dinner. No children under 12. Pros: nicest accommodations in town; attractively designed rooms; swimming pool; bayside setting with views. Cons: on the South End, a bit away from the main part of town; limited dining options at resort but good restaurants nearby. | Rooms from: BZ$185 | 425 Bayshore Dr., South End | 628/9224 | www.almondtreeresort.com | 5 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.
CasaBlanca by the Sea.
B&B/INN | In a quiet village, with views of Chetumal across Corozal Bay, this is a fine place to get away and catch up on your reading, but be aware that the location is off-the-beaten path, and there’s not much to do around the hotel. The best lodgings are the second-floor suites (BZ$300 plus tax) facing the bay. The first-floor restaurant serves Belizean and American food, and the waterside area with a palapa and a pier is perfect for sipping drinks by the bay. Pros: charming bayside setting; great place to get away; quiet and rarely busy. Cons: taxi or your own transportation required to visit town; no pool or real beach; bay swimming is only so-so. | Rooms from: BZ$155 | 8 miles (18 km) northeast of Corozal Town, next to customs office in Consejo Village | Consejo | From Corozal Town, take 4th Ave. North, which becomes unpaved Consejo Rd. Stay on Consejo Rd. 7 miles (10 km), through Consejo village. CasaBlanca is at end of road on bay, next to customs office | 423/1018 | www.casablancabelize.com | 7 rooms, 3 suites | No meals.
Copa Banana Guesthouse.
B&B/INN | This homelike inn, painted banana yellow, has five sunny suites with air-conditioning and cable TV carved out of two houses across the street from Corozal Bay. Guests share a common kitchen, dining room, and living room. A two-bedroom apartment also is available for monthly or longer rental. The owners run a real estate agency in Corozal. Bikes are complimentary, and guests can use a nearby swimming pool. Pros: handy to have kitchen privileges; tastefully decorated; close to bay. Cons: bike ride or long walk to heart of town. | Rooms from: BZ$120 | 409 Bay Shore Dr. | 422/0284 | www.copabanana.bz | 5 rooms, 1 apartment | No meals.
Corozal Bay Resort.
RESORT | This casual bayside resort has value-priced thatch cabanas in pastel colors on Corozal Bay, with all the modern conveniences. The hotel’s sandy beach (with seawall) is courtesy of its owners, Doug and Maria Podzun, who trucked in tons of sand. There’s also a swimming pool and a fenced parking lot. The cabañas are air-conditioned, with a small fridge, Wi-Fi, and flat-screen TVs with cable. Breakfast plans are an extra BZ$20 per person. Pros: nice tropical feel to thatch cabanas; without A/C, price is a real value; breezy bayside setting. Cons: beach has seawall, no bar or restaurant (breakfast is available). | Rooms from: BZ$55 | Almond Dr., off Goldson Hwy. at South End, on bay | 422/2416 | www.corozalbay.biz | 10 cabanas | Multiple meal plans.
Hok’ol K’in Guest House.
HOTEL | Yucatec Maya for “coming of the rising sun,” Hok’ol K’in, founded by an American Peace Corps veteran and now operated by Belizeans, is a friendly small budget hotel on the Corozal bayfront. It has 10 basic but comfortable and very clean rooms with cable TV. Five have air-conditioning (small additional nightly charge), but even the rooms with only fans enjoy a nice breeze from the bay most of the time. Rare for Belize, some of the rooms are wheelchair-accessible. There’s also a two-bedroom apartment for longer-term rental. Free Wi-Fi is available in the restaurant. Pros: breezy bayfront location within walking distance of most shops and restaurants; friendly management; some handicap-accessible rooms. Cons: no-frills rooms. | Rooms from: BZ$104 | 89 4th Ave. | 422/3329 | www.corozal.net | 10 rooms and 1 2-bedroom apartment | No meals.
Hotel Mirador.
HOTEL | Breathless as you may be when climbing to the fifth-level terrace of this budget hotel—the highest point in Corozal Town—it’s worth it for the breathtaking the views of Corozal Bay and town. The owners also operate a furniture store in Corozal, and they’ve outfitted the tiled and plastered rooms with beds and furnishings from their store. A Chinese eatery called Romantic Restaurant (which, sadly, it is not) occupies part of the first floor. Pros: beautiful views from top-floor patio; good value in the heart of town. Cons: layout of stairs precludes bay views from many rooms; mediocre food at Chinese restaurant; not for those who have trouble with a lot of stairs. | Rooms from: BZ$76 | 4th Ave. and 2nd St. S | 422/0189 | www.mirador.bz | 24 rooms.
Las Palmas.
HOTEL | Totally renovated and rebuilt, this whole property is upmarket but still a good value. The three-story concrete hotel is right in the middle of town, inside a walled courtyard. The rooms, with whitewashed stucco walls, have comfortable beds, linens, and brightly colored bedspreads, and all have air-conditioning, TVs, and mini-refrigerators. Long-term rates available. Pros: handy central location in town; good value. Cons: not on the water; limited secure parking. | Rooms from: BZ$98 | 123 5th Ave. | 422/0196 | www.laspalmashotelbelize.com | 20 rooms.
Sea Breeze Hotel.
B&B/INN | Run by a Welshman who lived for years in Antigua, Guatemala, the Sea Breeze is a top budget choice in Corozal. The cool-green-and-white painted building, formerly a Catholic nunnery, is across the street from the bay, behind a concrete wall. Inside, you’ll find comfortable, no-frills guest rooms, and a well-stocked bar (for guests and friends of guests only). Breakfast is served, also for guests only. Pros: good value in a budget hotel; convivial owner; cheapest breakfasts in town. Cons: rooms are simple; those without A/C can be hot. | Rooms from: BZ$55 | 23 1st Ave. | 422/3051 | www.theseabreezehotel.com | 7 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Serenity Sands B&B.
B&B/INN | This upscale, eco-oriented B&B is hidden away off the Consejo Road north of Corozal Town, with four tastefully decorated rooms on the second floor with private balconies overlooking gardens, Belizean art, and locally made hardwood furniture. A common room downstairs has satellite TV, DVD player, a library, and Wi-Fi. The Canadian owners generate their own power, mostly with windpower, and they work hard at being ecologically sensitive. Although the B&B is not directly on the water, Serenity has a beach on the bay a few hundred feet away. Rates are a good value for the high quality you enjoy, from BZ$170 plus tax. Delicious full breakfasts, mostly organic, are included. For families, there’s a two-bedroom cottage (no air-conditioning) near the B&B. Pros: beautiful rooms; family-friendly; eco-oriented management. Cons: in an out-of-the-way location, best visited with a rental car; not directly on the water. | Rooms from: BZ$185 | Mile 3, Consejo Rd. | From Corozal Town, take 4th Ave. North, which becomes unpaved Consejo Rd. Stay on Consejo Rd. 3 miles (5 km). Turn right at Serenity Sands sign. Follow Serenity Rd. ¾ mile (1.2 km); turn at first right and follow this road turning left, then right until you reach Serenity Sands B&B | 669/2394 | www.serenitysands.com | 4 rooms and 1 2-bedroom house | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Tony’s Inn and Beach Resort.
HOTEL | One of the oldest hotels and restaurants in northern Belize, Tony’s Inn is still going strong, with spacious, newly refurbished rooms and a popular bayside restaurant and bar, all on beautifully landscaped grounds. For the most enjoyable stay, choose the upgraded deluxe rooms with newly refurbished baths, mahogany furnishings, comfortable beds, and new air-conditioning units. At the inn’s main restaurant, Y Not Grill & Bar (Tony spelled backward - get it?) in a breezy bayside site, fajitas (chicken, beef, shrimp, or combo) are the way to go. There are first-rate conch fritters, too. Pros: attractive renovated rooms; breezy bayside setting with landscaped grounds; excellent open-air restaurant; safe guarded parking. Cons: currently there is no swimming pool, but one is planned. | Rooms from: BZ$225 | South End | 422/2055 | www.tonysinn.com | 24 rooms | No meals.
Copper Bank
12 miles (20 km) southeast of Corozal Town.
Copper Bank is a tidy and small (population around 500) Mestizo fishing village on Corozal Bay. The village is something of a footnote to the nearby Mayan site, Cerros.
Getting Here and Around
One way to get here is by boat from Corozal, which costs around BZ$80–BZ$160 for up to four people. You can also drive from Corozal Town, crossing the New River on the hand-pulled ferry. To get to the ferry from Corozal, take the Northern Highway south toward Orange Walk Town (watch for ferry sign). Turn left and follow this unpaved road for 2½ miles (4 km) to the ferry landing. After crossing the river, drive on to a T-intersection and turn left for Copper Bank. The trip from Corozal Town to Copper Bank takes about a half hour, but longer after heavy rains, as the dirt road can become very bad. As you enter Copper Bank, watch for signs directing you to “Cerros Maya.”
Timing
Most visitors do only a day trip to see the Cerros ruins, although if you want a quiet, off-the-main-path place to finish writing that novel, you won’t find a better place than Cerros Beach Resort.
Exploring
Cerros.
Like the Tulum site in Mexico, Cerros (also referred to as Cerro Maya, or Mayan Hill in Spanish) is unusual in that it’s directly on the water. Unlike Tulum, however, there is no development around it, and at times you can have the place all to yourself. With a beautiful setting on a peninsula jutting into Corozal Bay, near the mouth of the New River, the late Pre-Classic center dates to 2000 BC and includes a ball court, several tombs, and a large temple. Altogether, there are some 170 structures, many just mounds of stone and earth, on 52 acres. Bring plenty of bug spray—mosquitoes can be fierce here. TIP The easiest way to get to Cerros is to charter a boat in Corozal Town, for a 15-minute ride across the bay. | 2½ miles (4 km) north of Copper Bank | Follow signs from the south end of Corozal Town and cross the New River on the Pueblo Nuevo hand-cranked ferry. At the T-intersection, go left to Copper Bank Village and follow signs west on unpaved roads to Cerros. | BZ$10 | Daily 8–5.
Where to Stay
Cerros Beach Resort.
RESORT | Cerros Beach Resort is an off-the-grid option for good food and simple lodging on Corozal Bay, near the Cerros ruins. Expat owners Bill and Jenny (Bill is the chef) offer expertly made local and American food. Don’t miss the ceviche. On Sundays, there’s often a beach barbecue. Guests typically come by boat from Consejo or Corozal Town. Except after heavy rains, you can also drive here from Corozal or Orange Walk. If you want to stay overnight, in-season four small solar-powered cabañas go for BZ$120 plus tax. Pros: low-key, crowd-free small resort on the bay; tasty food; good value. Cons: mosquitoes sometimes can be pesky. | Rooms from: BZ$131 | Cerros Beach Resort | Near Cerros Maya site on north side of Cerros peninsula; entering Copper Bank village, watch for signs to Cerros Beach Resort. The resort will arrange for a pickup by boat from Consejo or Corozal Town for parties of 5 or more. | 623/9763 | www.cerrosbeachresort.com | 4 cabanas | Restaurant closed Mon.
Copper Bank Inn.
HOTEL | If you want to get away from it all at modest cost, Copper Bank Inn, a white, two-story, 10,000-square-foot house with a small bar and restaurant, is a good choice. It’s the main lodging option in the village of Copper Bank. The guest rooms are pleasant, with mahogany furniture, wooden shutters, and white plaster walls. There’s a swimming pool and a small restaurant and bar. Pros: quiet get-away; swimming pool; low rates. Cons: off-the-beaten path. | Rooms from: BZ$64 | Copper Bank Village | 662/5281 | www.copperbankinn.com | 10 rooms.
Crimson Orchid B&B.
B&B/INN | An unexpected addition to Orchid Bay real estate development is this stylish three-level, nine-room B&B, which opened in late 2012. Located in the middle of the somewhat off-the-beaten-path development just beyond the hand-pulled ferry across Laguna Seca, the Crimson Orchid caters both to the handful of visitors who find themselves on the road to Sarteneja, and to prospective buyers at Orchid Bay. The air-conditioned rooms are attractively furnished, and there’s a great view of Chetumal Bay from the roof-top terrace. A full English breakfast is included (the owner originally is from England) in the rates. Pros: newest and nicest accommodations in the Cerros-Sarteneja area; reasonable prices; authentic English breakfast. Cons: unusual location in area that gets few tourists; no pool yet (one is planned). | Rooms from: BZ$218 | Pescadores Park,off Sarteneja Rd., at Orchid Bay development | 669/5076 | 9 rooms | Breakfast.
Sarteneja
40 miles (67 km) from Corozal Town.
The bay setting of the Mestizo and Creole community of Sarteneja makes it one of the most relaxed and appealing destinations in Belize. It’s also the largest fishing village in Belize. You can swim in the bay here, though in many places the bottom is gunky.
Lobster fishing and pineapple farming are the town’s two main industries, and Sarteneja is also a center for building wooden boats. Most residents speak Spanish as a first language, but many also speak English.
Visitors and real-estate buyers are beginning to discover Sarteneja, and while tourism services are still minimalist, several small guesthouses are now open, and there are a few places to get a simple, inexpensive bite to eat.
Getting Here and Around
Driving to Sarteneja from Corozal Town takes about 1½ hours via the New River ferry and a second, bay-side ferry across Laguna Seca. The road is unpaved and can be very muddy after heavy rains. You also can drive to Sarteneja from Orange Walk Town, a trip of about 40 miles (67 km) and 1½ hours. There are several Sarteneja Bus Line buses a day, except Sunday, from Belize City via Orange Walk Town. The trip from Belize City takes 3½ to 4 hours and costs BZ$10.
The daily water taxi between Corozal Town and San Pedro will drop you at Sarteneja on request. You also can hire a private boat in Corozal to take you and your party to Sarteneja.
Sarteneja has an airstrip, with flights on Tropic Air from San Pedro to Corozal Town stopping at Sarteneja on demand.
Contacts
Tropic Air. | San Pedro, Ambergris Caye, | San Pedro | 226/2012 | www.tropicair.com.
Timing
Once you visit Shipstern and take a splash in the sea, you’ve just about exhausted all there is to do in Sarteneja. So bring several good books and enjoy the slow-paced village life.
Exploring
Shipstern Wildlife Reserve.
About 3½ miles (6 km) west of Sarteneja on the road to Orange Walk or Corozal is the Shipstern Wildlife Reserve. You pass the entrance and visitor center as you come into Sarteneja. The 31 square miles (81 square km) of tropical forest forming the reserve are, like the Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, a paradise for bird-watchers. Currently, Shipstern is owned and operated by a Swiss conservationist nongovernmental organization, but it is slated to become a Belize national park. More than 300 species of birds have been identified here. Look for egrets (there are 13 species), American coots, keel-billed toucans, flycatchers, warblers, and several species of parrots. Mammals are in healthy supply as well, including pumas, jaguars, and raccoons. The butterfly farm next to the visitor center is now a small education area, and butterflies are being repopulated. Nearby, a small museum at Mahogany Park focuses on the history and uses of this beautiful tropical hardwood. There is a botanical trail leading from the visitor center, with the names of many plants and trees identified on small signs. Admission, a visit to the butterfly center, and a one-hour guided tour of the botanical trail is BZ$10 per person. You can add a tour of the Mahogany Park for BZ$5. Other tours are available, including one to the lagoon at Xo-Pol to see crocodiles. Bring plenty of bug juice. For tour information, stop at the Shipstern visitor center. | Shipstern Wildlife Reserve, Chunox-Sarteneja Rd., near Sarteneja village | 621/8336 Sarteneja Tour Guide Association | BZ$10 | Daily 8–5.
Where to Eat
FAMILY | Liz Fast Food.
MEXICAN | Some of the tastiest and certainly the cheapest food in Sarteneja is at this little restaurant, hardly more than a glorified street stall. Liz Perez and her sister prepare and serve delicious, inexpensive tacos, salbutes, and garnaches for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. At lunch, locals stop by for spicy Buffalo chicken wings. It’s hard to spend more than BZ$5 here for a filling meal. | Average main: BZ$3 | Primitivo Aragon Ave., opposite the old church | No credit cards.
Ritchie’s Place.
SEAFOOD | This no-frills, family-run restaurant serves the freshest seafood in Sarteneja, from a whole fried snapper (BZ$15) to fish empanadas to conch and lobster in season. Owner Ritchie Cruz lives next door to his restaurant, which is just a few tables on a screened porch. Even a hungry family of four will find it difficult to spend more than BZ$50 for dinner unless you buy specials such as lobster. | Average main: BZ$10 | Ritchie’s Place, Front St., near public pier | 423/2031 | No credit cards.
Where to Stay
Candelie’s Sunset Cabañas.
B&B/INN | Our picks for the best, and best-value, lodging in Sarteneja are the two seaside cottages at Candelie’s. Named Wood Stork and Brown Pelican, the high-ceilinged cabins each have double beds, cable TV, and plenty of space. Wood Stork, closer to the water and with a large mural of the stork on the side, has newly upgraded air-conditioning. The cottages have screened porches to catch the breezes from the water. They are within walking distance of nearly everything in the village. Both are bargains, at BZ$120. Pros: spacious private cottages; lovely waterside location; good value; friendly manager. Cons: mattresses are a little thin. | Rooms from: BZ$120 | On waterfront at west end of village, N. Front St. | 423/2005 | candeliescabanas@yahoo.com | 2 cottages | No credit cards | No meals.
Fernando’s Seaside Guesthouse.
B&B/INN | Lounge on the second-floor veranda of this small waterfront guesthouse and watch the fishing boats anchored just a few hundred feet away. With three of the four rooms here costing just BZ$60 plus tax, relaxing is affordable. The best room is at the front of the hotel, with a window looking toward the sea, a king-size bed, and cable TV (BZ$80 plus tax). Pros: seaside location; water views from the second-floor porch. Cons: rooms at back lack a sea view and can be hot. | Rooms from: BZ$65 | North Front St. | 423/2085 | 4 rooms.
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