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Flores | Santa Elena | El Remate | North Shore, Lake Petén Itzá
Flores, a charming small town in Lake Petén Itzá connected to the mainland by a causeway, is the main point of interest beyond Tikal. Stay in a small inn or hotel, eat at lakeside bistros, and explore the cobblestone streets on foot. Santa Elena, at the entrance to Flores, is a bustling commercial center but is far less frequented by tourists. El Remate, a village on the shore of the lake, has a number of small, mostly budget or moderately priced, hotels and is a handy, low-key jumping-off point for Tikal if you don’t stay in the park.
Flores
133 miles (206 km) north of Río Dulce, 38 miles (61 km) northeast of Sayaxché.
The red-roof town of Flores, on an island surrounded by the waters of Lago Petén Itzá, is on the site of the ancient city of Tatyasal. This was the region’s last unconquered outpost of Mayan civilization, until finally falling to the Spanish in 1697. The conquerors destroyed the city’s huge pyramids.
Today the capital of the department of Petén is a pleasant place to explore, with its narrow streets lined with thick-walled buildings painted pink, blue, and purple. Flowering plants droop over balconies, and there’s a central square presided over by a colonial church. In recent years, many of the streets in Flores, especially those at the edge of the lake, have been repaired and resurfaced with cobblestones, making strolling around more pleasant.
Sadly, many of the hotels in Flores are also pedestrian, rarely rising above mediocrity. Flores is crying out for a truly special small inn, one that’s as charming as the town itself.
Connected to the mainland by a bridge and causeway—don’t be put off by the Burger King at the entrance to the causeway, or the new Mundo Maya International Mall shopping center there—Flores serves as a base for travelers to El Petén. It’s also the center of many nongovernmental organizations working for the preservation of the Mayan Biosphere, an endangered area covering nearly all of northern Petén. Flores is also one of the last remaining vestiges of the Itzá, the people who built Mexico’s monumental Chichén Itzá.
Where to Eat
Café Arqueológico Yaxha.
LATIN AMERICAN | This restaurant combines a cultural and educational experience with good food, and you can often get more information here about the region than from INGUAT. German architect Dieter Richter, who has worked on projects at Yaxha and Naranjo, started this café. You can browse a collection of books, photos, maps, and other information about the Mayan world while you enjoy a hamburguesa or a Mayan dish such as Pollo Xni Pec (chicken in a chili sauce served with rice and yucca). Most main dishes are Q50 to Q80. You can also book tours to Yaxha and elsewhere. | Average main: Q60 | Av. 15 de Septiembre | 502/5830–2060 | www.cafeyaxha.com.
FAMILY | Capitán Tortuga.
PIZZA | The large, cartoonlike Capitán Turtle sign may fool you into thinking this restaurant is just for kids, but the grilled meats, pizza, tacos and burritos, and other options make this one of Flores’ better choices for a meal with a view. The pinchos (grilled kebabs) are cooked on an open barbecue, sending enticing aromas throughout the restaurant. There’s a nice patio out back, which offers tremendous sunset views of the lake. | Average main: Q100 | Calle 30 de Junio and Callejón San Pedrito | 502/7867–5089 | www.capitantortuga.com.
Cool Beans/El Café Chilero.
CAFÉ | Sit in a leafy garden and sip a latte or lemonade at this cool coffeehouse. You can eat breakfast for under Q40, and light meals and beer are served the rest of the day. Free Wi-Fi. | Average main: Q60 | Calle 15 de Septiembre | 502/5571–9240 | Closed Tues.
Fodor’s Choice | Il Terrazo.
ITALIAN | Il Terrazo arguably is currently the best restaurant in Flores. Certainly the location is among the best in town. The restaurant, on a second floor terrace (as the name suggests), has wonderful views over the lake. The owners offer an eclectic mix of Italian and other dishes, and it’s also a good place for a drink. | Average main: Q80 | Calle Union | 502/7867–5479 | Closed Sun.
La Luna.
ECLECTIC | With its homemade paper lamp shades illuminating lovely blue walls, La Luna inspires romance on any moonlit night. But you can just as easily fall in love with what we think is the most creative restaurant in town when you stop in for a delicious lunch or dinner. Choose from inventive dishes, including wonderful vegetarian options like the stuffed squash in white sauce. The fish dishes are always good. Many people drop by for a drink at the bar. All it lacks is a view of the lake. | Average main: Q120 | Calle 30 de Junio, corner Calle 10 de Noviembre | 502/7926–3346.
Pizzeria Picasso.
PIZZA | If you find yourself returning to Pizzeria Picasso, it’s because the brick-oven pizza is hot and delicious. The decor, featuring a print of Picasso’s Guernica, is another draw. If you’re not in the mood for pizza, there is a variety of pastas as well. Save room for cheesecake or tiramisu and a cup of steaming cappuccino. | Average main: Q80 | Calle 15 de Septiembre at Calle Centroamérica | 502/7926–0673 | Closed Mon.
Where to Stay
Hotel Petén.
HOTEL | An arabesque plunge pool graces the central courtyard of this classic lodging, believed to be the oldest hotel in Flores (of course this means only a little more than 50 years, when Flores became a visitor destination due to Tikal). Taking a dip to escape the midday heat is a treat not to be missed. The same owners also operate two other hotels in area, one in Flores and one in Santa Elena. Pros: classic hotel with great views of the lake from some balcony rooms. Cons: four flights of stairs to get to top-floor rooms. | Rooms from: Q407 | Calle 30 de Junio, off Calle Centroamerica | 502/2366–2841 | reservaciones@hotelesdepeten.com | www.hotelesdepeten.com | 21 rooms | No meals.
La Casona de la Isla.
HOTEL | La Casona de la Isla is a lakeside hotel in Flores, one of the top hotels on an island without many great hotels, and it has comfortable but unremarkable rooms with air-conditioning, Wi-Fi, and cable TV. The hotel is old enough to have gotten a spot with nice lake views, and there’s a pool. Deals are sometimes offered off-season, as low as Q300 double including breakfast. Pros: modern conveniences like a/c, cable, and Wi-Fi; lake views from some rooms, especially on upper floors; swimming pool; friendly staff. Cons: don’t expect real luxury (here or anywhere in Flores). | Rooms from: Q460 | Calle 30 de Junio | 502/2366–2841 | 26 rooms | Some meals.
Nightlife
Flores has a number of bars and restaurants where you can enjoy drinks with a view, although on weekdays the town tends to close up early. Il Terrazo, an excellent restaurant, has a second-level bar with good drinks and with equally fine views of the lake. Flores nightlife gets more active on weekends, and locals tends to hang out at the cantinas on the Playa Sur area near the Gran Hotel de la Isla.
Il Terrazo.
The thatch-roof second-floor terrace with beautiful lake views is a good place to have a drink in the evening, with soft music from the sound system playing in the background. Come early for the happy hour. | Calle Unión | 502/7867–5479.
La Luna.
For an evening drink, the artsy La Luna has a pleasant atmosphere, but there is no lake view. | Calle 30 de Junio | 502/7926–3346.
Sports and the Outdoors
Boating
Boat trips on Lake Petén Itzá can be arranged through most hotels in Flores or by haggling with boat owners who congregate behind the Hotel Santana. Tours (Q80–Q160) often include a stop at Paraíso Escondido, a small mainland park northwest of Flores.
Santa Elena
¼ mile (½ km) south of Flores.
Although it lacks the charms of neighboring Flores, gritty Santa Elena is pretty much unavoidable. Most services that you’ll need for your trip to El Petén, from currency exchange to gas stations, are offered here. Mundo Maya International Mall, a new shopping center near the causeway to Flores, has a large grocery store and other shops. There are also more upscale hotels here than in Flores. Most are focused on tour groups and business people.
Getting Here and Around
Tuk-tuks—the motorized three-wheeled taxi rickshaws manufactured in Asia—ply the streets of Flores and, to a lesser degree, Santa Elena. Most trips are Q20 or less.
Timing
Santa Elena is a place to sleep in a decent hotel, get money from an ATM, and buy picnic supplies. There’s little to see in Santa Elena itself. At most, you’ll use it as a base for exploring other parts of El Petén, so how long you stay here depends on your exploration plans.
Safety and Precautions
Some gas stations in Santa Elena have guards armed with shotguns 24 hours a day, so that should tell you something. The better hotels are quite safe, however, and most visitors never experience any crime.
Where to Stay
Hotel La Casona del Lago.
HOTEL | Santa Elena’s spiffiest hotel sits on the lakeshore and has splendid views of Flores across the water, especially from the top-floor restaurant and bar. Rooms are bright and spacious, with large windows, tile floors, two double beds each, and a desk, and are arranged around three sides of the pool. While far from luxury level, this place tosses in amenities such as Wi-Fi. It’s under the same management as two hotels in Flores, so if you can’t get a room at one you may have other choices. Pros: short walk or tuk-tuk ride across causeway to Flores; views of Flores and the lake; pool; good hotel restaurant. Cons: rooms on street side can be noisy; gets a good deal of group business; expensive (for this part of Guatemala). | Rooms from: Q783 | Calle Litoral | 502/7952–8700 | www.hotelesdepeten.com | 33 rooms.
Petén Espléndido.
HOTEL | You’re not in Flores, but the views of that pretty island from your private balcony may be the next best thing to being there. The pool, surrounded by palm trees, is a good place to spend an afternoon sunbathing. Sit at one of the shaded tables on the terrace or in the attractive dining room and enjoy the especial del día (daily special). The hotel is popular among business travelers, who appreciate the fully equipped meeting center. It’s located within walking distance of the newish Mundo Maya International Mall. Pros: close to mall; perhaps has the only hotel elevator in the Petén; nice views of Flores; easy access by foot or tuk-tuk to Flores. Cons: smallish rooms; ready for updating; somewhat overpriced. | Rooms from: Q925 | 1 Calle, 5-01, Zona 1, near foot of causeway leading to Flores | 502/7926–0880 | www.petenesplendido.com | 62 rooms.
Villa Maya.
HOTEL | You could lie in bed and count the birds flying by your window at these modern villas at Lake Petenchel, east of Santa Elena, part of a small group of villa-type hotels around Guatemala. Some 50 species have been spotted in the area. If you’re more interested in wildlife, ask an attendant where to find the troop of spider monkeys that roams the grounds and the adjacent rain forest, or the local crocodile. All 56 rooms, in two-level bungalows spread out around the grounds, are tastefully decorated with colorful weavings and mahogany accents, and have terrific views. Vans shuttle you to and from Tikal. Pros: beautiful lake views; quiet and peaceful setting. Cons: not convenient to a selection of restaurants and shopping; bugs can be bothersome. | Rooms from: Q815 | 5 miles (8 km) east of Santa Elena, Laguna Petenchel | 502/7931–8350 hotel, 502/2223–5000 in Guatemala City | www.villasdeguatemala.com | 56 rooms in 10 villas | No meals.
Sports and the Outdoors
There are several caves in the hills behind Santa Elena with interesting stalactite and stalagmite formations and subterranean rivers. The easiest to visit is Actun Kan, just south of town.
FAMILY | Ixpanpajul Parque Natural.
Ixpanpajul Parque Natural is a private nature reserve sitting on a large stand of primary rain forest. Hiking the suspended bridges of the skyway will give you a bird’s-eye view of the indigenous flora and fauna that make the rain forest the most biodiverse ecosystem on the planet. The park also offers myriad adventure opportunities, from nighttime ATV tours to horseback rides to mountain-bike excursions. A three-hour Tarzán Canopy Tour (zip line) costs Q235 or US$30. There is camping, and rental cabanas are available. A restaurant has specials that average around Q70. | Km 468, Ruta a Santa Elena, 6 miles (10 km) south of Santa Elena between Santa Elena and Tikal Park | 502/2336–0576, 502/4062–9812 phone in park | www.ixpanpajul.com | Daily 7–6.
El Remate
18½ miles (30 km) northeast of Flores.
A mellow little town on the eastern shore of Lago Petén Itzá, El Remate is known for its wood carvings, made by families that have dedicated themselves to this craft for generations. Just west of El Remate is the Biotopo Cerro Cahuí, and you can rent a canoe or kayak (around Q10 or US$1.20 an hour) at El Remate to explore the lake. Because it’s less than one hour from both Tikal and Yaxhá, El Remate makes a good base for exploring the area, and there are a growing number of small inns, hotels, and restaurants to choose from, many with views of the lake.
Exploring
Biotopo Cerro Cahuí.
With around 1,500 acres of rainforest, Biotopo Cerro Cahuí near El Remate is one of the most accessible wildlife reserves in El Petén. It protects a portion of a mountain that extends to the eastern edge of Lago Petén Itzá, so there are plenty of opportunities for hiking. Two well-maintained trails put you in proximity of birds like ocellated turkeys, toucans, and parrots. As for mammals, look up to spot the long-armed spider monkeys or down to see squat rodents called tepezcuintles. Tzu’unte, a 4-mile (6-km) trail, leads to two lookouts with views of nearby lakes. The upper lookout, Mirador Moreletii, is known by locals as Crocodile Hill, because from the other side of the lake it looks like the eye of a half-submerged crocodile. Los Ujuxtes, a 3-mile (5-km) trail, offers a panoramic view of three lakes. Both hikes begin at a ranger station, where English-speaking guides are sporadically available. Some robberies and attacks on tourists have taken place in the reserve, so ask locally in El Remate about safety conditions before you explore on your own. | West of El Remate | Q30 | Daily 7–5.
Getting Here and Around
El Remate, near the El Cruce or Ixlú crossroads, is about an hour by car from the Belize border and about a half hour from Flores.
Timing
Most visitors use El Remate as a base for visits to Tikal and other nearby Mayan sites, so the length of stay depends on how much time you want to spend seeing ruins.
Where to Stay
La Casa de Don David.
HOTEL | Don David Kuhn has lived in the area for 40 years and is a great source of Tikal travel tips, and his hotel near El Remate, while not the most deluxe in the area, offers a lot for the visitor. The hotel’s web site has a wealth of information on travel to Tikal and in the Petén. In fact, you can consider this little inn as the area’s semi-official tourist information center. Rooms are simple and clean, with private baths, and most have air-conditioning. La Casa has a second-floor, open-air restaurant with good home cooking and nice views of Lake Petén Itzá. One meal is included in the room rate - you can choose to have breakfast or dinner here. A fixed-price dinner is around Q55. The hotel offers good, well-priced tours to Tikal, Yaxhá, and other sites, along with horseback riding and boat rides on the lake. Free Wi-Fi. Pros: knowledgeable hosts; attractive grounds; good restaurant. Cons: not a lot of frills. | Rooms from: Q360 | On road to Biotopo Cerro Cahuí, near El Remate | 502/5306–2190, 502/5949–2164 | www.lacasadedondavid.com | 13 rooms | Some meals.
La Mansión del Pájaro Serpiente.
HOTEL | Perched on a hillside in El Remate, La Mansión del Pájaro Serpiente has some of the prettiest accommodations in El Petén. You have a choice of rooms in either standard or deluxe stone and thatch bungalows. Canopy beds grace the larger bedrooms, which are furnished in dark tropical woods and have big windows that let in lots of light. You can throw open the windows to catch the lake breezes, so sleeping is comfortable, although the deluxe rooms (around Q430) have air-conditioning. Up a hill is a swimming pool, and farther up you’ll find a covered terrace with several hammocks. The grounds are lovingly maintained, and there are even resident peafowl. The open-air restaurant serves local and international dishes. Pros: pretty little cabins set on a hillside; lake views (though it’s not directly on the lake); lovely grounds; swimming pool. Cons: not for visitors who can’t walk up and down steep hills. | Rooms from: Q345 | On main hwy. south of El Remate | 502/5967–9816 in English or Spanish | tikalnancy@hotmail.com | www.30minutesfromtikal.com | 11 rooms | No credit cards.
Sports and the Outdoors
FAMILY | Tikal Canopy Tour.
The fun folks at Tikal Canopy Tour have expeditions that take you to the true heart of the rain forest—not on ground level, but more than 100 feet up in the air. There are now two zip lines, one with nine and one with 10 platforms. On either canopy tour you may see monkeys and or other wildlife. Each zip line costs US$30 or Q235 per person. Prices include transport from El Remate or Tikal Park (from Flores or Santa Elena there’s an additional US$5 fee). Tikal Canopy Tour also offers hiking. | Near entrance gate to Tikal park, about 40 minutes by car from Flores | 502/7926–4270 | www.canopytikal.com | Q235.
Shopping
Although most souvenirs here are similar to those found elsewhere in Guatemala, the beautiful wood carvings are unique to El Petén. More than 70 families in this small town dedicate themselves to this craft. Their wares are on display on the side of the highway right before the turnoff for the Camino Real and La Lancha hotels on the road to Tikal, and also in small shops in El Remate.
North Shore, Lake Petén Itzá
8 miles (13 km) west of El Remate.
The small villages of San Pedro, San José, and San Andrés, on the northwest shore of Lake Petén Itzá, have beautiful views of the sparkling lake. Several upscale lodges and hotels have opened here, and the area is accessible via bus or car on an improved (but bumpy) dirt road from El Remate or Santa Elena, or in the clockwise direction from San Benito.
Where to Stay
Camino Real Tikal.
RESORT | To experience the natural beauty of the jungles surrounding Lago Petén Itzá without sacrificing international-style hotel creature comforts, you could head to the Camino Real Tikal. It’s possible to spend several days at this 72-room hotel between El Remate and the village of Jobompiche without exhausting the possibilities - kayaking, boating, hiking in a private reserve, swimming in the pool, lounging in the lakeside hammocks, and experiencing a traditional Mayan sauna. Tikal park is about 45 minutes away by car. A dozen three-story thatch-roof villas set high on the hillside hold the rooms, which have porches with views of the sparkling lake. At this writng there are rumors are that the Camino Real may build additional rooms, perhaps doubling the size of the hotel and renovating what’s there now, which is much-needed. Pros: largest international-style hotel in the Petén; beautiful setting. Cons: somewhat remote; rooms somewhat tired and dated; upgrading and renovations needed; lots of steps may pose problem for mobility-impaired guests. | Rooms from: Q1030 | 3 miles (5 km) west of El Remate, Lote 77, Parcelamiento Tayasal | San José | 17002 | 502/7926–0204, 502/2410–5299 reservations | www.caminorealtikal.com.gt | 72 rooms | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | La Lancha.
RESORT | Francis Ford Coppola’s Guatemalan lodging is done in exquisite taste, and it’s the only one with air-conditioning. Guatemalan and Balinese textiles and handmade furniture make rooms cozy. All the casitas glimpse Lake Petén Itzá, though the pricier, larger and more luxe “lake-view” units have the stunning, splurge-worthy views. The lake-view units, however, are many steps farther down the hillside. The restaurant serves delicious Guatemalan food, such as chilaquiles, beef tenderloin served with peppercorn sauce grilled on the open parilla, and the lake views from your table are incredible. A gift shop above the restaurant sells crafts at fairly reasonable prices. A split-level pool just below the restaurant lets you cool off if you don’t care to swim in the lake. You’re about an hour’s drive from Tikal. Pros: lovely lake views; excellent restaurant; air-conditioned rooms; all done in good taste. Cons: very expensive (for Guatemala); somewhat remote; lots of steep steps; you can hear your neighbors in the cheaper duplex units. | Rooms from: Q1520 | 8 miles (13 km) west of El Remate | San José | 502/7928–8331, 800/746–3743 in U.S. and Canada | www.coppolaresorts.com/lalancha | 10 casitas | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Ni’tun Lodge and Private Reserve.
B&B/INN | After hiking through the jungle, you’ll love returning to this charming cluster of cabins owned by a former coffee farmer across the lake from Flores. The point of this upscale ecolodge is to disturb the environment as little as possible, so the buildings are constructed of stone and wood left behind by farmers clearing land for fields. The common areas, including a massive kitchen downstairs and an airy bar and reading room upstairs, are delightful. Ni’tun also runs Monkey Eco Tours, so you can choose from itineraries ranging from one-day trips to nearby villages to a seven-day journey to El Mirador (at US$250 a day per person). It’s easiest to get here by boat (a 20-minute trip) from Flores. Pros: small, very personal lodge experience; excellent food; engaging owner. Cons: off the beaten path; expensive. | Rooms from: Q1300 | near San Andrés, across Lake Petén Itzá northwest of Flores | San Andrés Xecul | 502/5201–0759 | www.nitun.com | 4 cabins | Closed late May–early June | Breakfast.
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