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Essentials

Accommodations

Regardless of the kind of lodging, you’ll usually stay at a small place, as only a few properties have more than 50 or 75 rooms, and most have fewer than 30; the owners often actively manage the property. Thus, Belize accommodations usually reflect the personalities of their owners, for better or worse.

Apartment and House Rentals

You can most easily find vacation rentals on Ambergris Caye. Marty Casado’s Ambergris Caye website has a good selection of rental houses and condos. Vacation Rentals By Owner (VRBO) has scores of rentals on Ambergris Caye and elsewhere in Belize. There also are some vacation rental houses in Placencia and Hopkins and on Caye Caulker.

Information
Ambergis Caye website. | www.ambergriscaye.com.
Vacation Rentals By Owner (VRBO). | www.vrbo.com.

Beach Hotels

Beach hotels range from a basic seaside cabin on Caye Caulker to a small, deluxe resort such as Hamanasi near Hopkins. On Ambergris Caye many resorts are “condotels”—low-rise condo complexes with individually owned units that are managed like a hotel.

Jungle Lodges

Jungle lodges are concentrated in the Cayo, but they are also in Toledo, Belize, and Orange Walk districts and can be found most anywhere except the cayes. Jungle lodges need not be spartan; nearly all have electricity (though the generator may shut down at 10 pm), an increasing number have swimming pools, and a few have air-conditioning. The typical lodge has a roof of bay-palm thatch and may remind you of a Mayan house gone upscale.

Staying on Remote Cayes

Lodging choices on remote cayes appeal to the diving and fishing crowd. Amenity levels vary greatly, from cabins with outdoor bathrooms to simple cottages with composting toilets to comfortable villas with air-conditioning.

Traditional Hotels

Traditional hotels, usually found in larger towns, can be basic budget places or international-style hotels such as the Radisson Fort George in Belize City.

Cancellations

As most hotels have only a few rooms, a last-minute cancellation can have a big impact on the bottom line. Most properties have a sliding scale for cancellations, with full refunds (minus a small administrative fee) if you cancel 60 or 90 days or more in advance, with reduced refund rates for later cancellations, and often no refunds at all for cancellation 30 to 45 days out. Practices vary greatly, so check on them.

Rates

In the off-season—generally May to November, though dates vary by hotel—most properties discount rates by 20% to 40%. Although hotels have published rates, in the off-season at least you may also be able to negotiate a better rate, especially if you’re staying more than one or two nights. TIP Walk-in rates are usually lower than prebooked rates, and rooms booked direct on the Internet may be lower than those booked through agents.

Most hotels allow children under a certain age to stay in their parents’ room at no extra charge, but others charge for them as extra adults; find out the cutoff age for discounts.

All prices for Belize are in Belize dollars for a standard double room in high season with no meals included, including service charges and 9% hotel tax. There has been discussion of increasing the room tax rate to the same rate as the sales tax, 12.5%, but as of this writing no final action has been taken.

Communications

Internet

Belize is relatively wired. DSL high-speed (though not always the “high speed” you may be accustomed to) Internet is available in most populated areas, and cable Internet is offered in Belize City, Placencia, San Pedro, and elsewhere. Relatively high-speed cell Internet is becoming popular around the country. In more remote areas, there’s the option of satellite Internet. There are Internet cafés in San Pedro, Caye Caulker, Belize City, San Ignacio, Placencia, Hopkins, Corozal Town, Punta Gorda, and other areas. Rates are usually around BZ$10–BZ$20 an hour. Most offices of the main phone company, Belize Telemedia, Ltd., have computers with DSL Internet connections (BZ$10 per half hour). BTL also has Wi-Fi hot spots at the international airport (free) and elsewhere. Most hotels, lodges, and inns now offer free Wi-Fi access for guests.

Cybercafés and Intenet Cafes

Cybercafés are now common in Belize City and in most towns and resort areas all over Belize. The problem is that these lightly capitalized businesses frequently are here today and gone tomorrow. Your best bet is just to scout the area where you’re staying for an open Internet café. If you’re visiting on a cruise ship, Click & Sip is inside the Tourism Village in Belize City. Rates vary, but typically you’ll pay around BZ$5–BZ$10 for a half hour, BZ$8–BZ$15 for an hour. There is free Belize Telemedia Ltd. Wi-Fi at the international airport.

Cybercafés
Cybercafes. Cybercafes lists more than 4,200 Internet cafés worldwide. | www.cybercafes.com.

Internet Cafés

Click & Sip Internet Café. | Fort St., in Tourism Village, | Belize City | 223/1305.

Internet at Accommodations

Most mid-level and upscale hotels, and many budget ones, now provide Internet access, typically Wi-Fi, for your laptop, tablet computer, or Internet-enabled smartphone, and also a computer or two in the office or lobby, at no charge. A few hotel operators still charge a fee, up to BZ$30 a day. In towns and resort areas this is usually DSL, but with speeds of only 1 or 2 Mbps down or less. At jungle lodges and other remote properties, the access is usually via a satellite system, with very limited bandwidth. At these lodges you’re usually asked to use the Internet for email only and not to upload or download large files. TIP If you’re traveling with a laptop in Belize, be aware that the power supply may be uneven, and most hotels don’t have built-in current stabilizers. At remote lodges power is often from fluctuating generators. Bring a surge protector and your own disks or memory sticks to save your work.

Phones

Calling Within Belize

All Belizean numbers are seven digits. (In Guatemala there are eight digits.) The first digit in Belize is the district area code (2 for Belize District, 3 Orange Walk, 4 Corozal, 5 Stann Creek, 6 for mobile phones, 7 Toledo, and 8 Cayo). The second indicates the type of service (0 for prepaid services, 1 for mobile, 2 for regular landline). The final five digits are the phone number. Thus, a number such as 22x/xxxx means that it’s a landline phone in Belize District.

To dial any number in Belize, local or long distance, you must dial all seven digits. When dialing from outside Belize, dial the international access code, the country code for Belize (501), and all seven digits. When calling from the United States, dial 011/501–xxx–xxxx.

Belize has a good nationwide phone system. There are pay phones on the street in the main towns. All take prepaid phone cards rather than coins. Local calls cost BZ25¢; calls to other districts, BZ$1. Dial 113 for directory assistance and 115 for operator assistance. For the correct local time, dial 121. You can get phone numbers in Belize on the website of Belize Telemedia Ltd.

Calling Outside Belize

To call the United States, dial 001 or 10–10–199 plus the area code and number. You’ll pay around BZ$1.50 a minute. Pay phones accept only prepaid BTL phone cards, available in shops at BTL offices in denominations from BZ$5 to BZ$75. BTL blocks many foreign calling cards and also attempts to block even computer-to-computer calls on Skype and similar services.

The country code is 1 for the United States and Canada, 502 for Guatemala, 52 for Mexico, 61 for Australia, 64 for New Zealand, and 44 for the United Kingdom.

Resources

Belize Telemedia Ltd. | 800/225–5285 toll-free in Belize, 223/2368 main number in Belize City | www.belizetelemedia.net.

Mobile Phones

If you have a multiband cell or smartphone and your service provider uses the GSM 850/1900 digital system (like AT&T) you can use your phone in Belize on BTL’s DigiCell system. You’ll need a new SIM card (your provider may have to unlock your phone for you to use a different SIM card). The SIM card will cost about BZ$50, and you’ll also need a prepaid phone card to pay for outgoing calls (incoming cell calls are free). Both items and also rental cell phones (starting at BZ$10 a day or BZ$70 a week) are available at the BTL office at the international airport (near the rental car kiosks), at some BTL offices, and at a number of private shops and stores around Belize that are DigiCell distributors. A few car rental companies throw in a free cell phone with a vehicle rental.

Another option is a small BTL competitor, Smart!, which operates a nationwide cell-phone system that uses CDMA technology (like Verizon in the United States). At one of its offices—in Belize City, Corozal Town, Orange Walk Town, Belmopan City, San Ignacio, San Pedro, or Benque Viejo—you can reprogram your unlocked 800 MHz or 850 MHz CDMA phone for use in Belize. There’s an activation fee of BZ$40, and you’ll need to purchase a prepaid plan with per-minute rates for outgoing calls of BZ55¢ to BZ70¢ (incoming calls, text messages, and voice mail are free).

You may also be able to activate your own cell phone for use in Belize. Check with your service provider, but be aware that international roaming charges are high. Typically, you’ll pay US$3 or more per minute to use your cell in Belize, even if you are calling local numbers.

Contacts
BTL International Airport Office. The BTL office at the international airport, which rents cell phones and sells phone cards and SIM chips for cell phones to use in Belize, is at the far left end of the group of car rental offices across the main parking lot, as you face the line of offices. | 225/4162 office at international airport, 800/225–5285 toll-free in Belize.
Smart!. Smart! also has other offices around Belize where you can purchase a cell phone or have your CDMA phone activated to work with a local number in Belize. | Mile 2½ Goldson Hwy., formerly Northern Hwy., Northern Suburbs, | Belize City | 280/1000 in Belize City | customerservice@smart-bz.com | www.smart-bz.com.

Customs and Duties

At the international airport in Belize City it rarely takes more than 30 minutes to clear immigration and customs.

Duty-free allowances for visitors entering Belize include 1 liter of liquor and one carton of cigarettes per person. Customs officials may confiscate beer, including beer from Guatemala or Mexico, as Belize protects its domestic brewing industry. The exception is beer from countries in CARICOM, of which Belize is a member. TIP When arriving by international air at Philip Goldson International Airport you can buy up to four bottles of spirits or wine at the duty-free shop in the arrival terminal near the baggage claim area. These won’t be counted toward your regular import allowance.

In theory, electronic and electrical appliances, cameras, jewelry, or other items of value must be declared at the point of entry, but unless these are new items you plan to leave in Belize, you probably will not be required to declare them. You should have no trouble bringing in a laptop for personal use.

Firearms of any type are prohibited, as are fresh fruits and vegetables. Although a couple of dozen food items, including meats, rice, beans, sugar, and peanuts, require an import license, grocery items in small amounts for personal use, in their original packages, are usually allowed.

To take home fresh seafood of any kind from Belize, you must first obtain a permit from the Fisheries Department. There’s a 20-pound limit. It is illegal to export any Mayan artifact from Belize.

You may enter Guatemala duty-free with a camera, up to six rolls of film, any clothes and articles needed while traveling, 500 mg of tobacco, 3 liters of alcoholic beverages, two bottles of perfume, and 2 kg of candy. Unless you bring in a lot of merchandise, customs officers probably won’t even check your luggage, although a laptop may be somewhat scrutinized.

It’s illegal to export most Mayan artifacts. If you buy any such goods, do so only at a well-established store, and keep the receipt. You may not take fruits or vegetables out of Guatemala.

Information in Belize
Belize Fisheries. | 223/2623 Coastal Zone Management | www.agriculture.gov.bz.

U.S. Information
U.S. Customs and Border Protection. | 877/227–5511 in U.S., 202/325–8000 for international callers | www.cbp.gov.
United States State Department. | 202/647–4000 State Dept. main switchboard in Washington, 888/407–4747 emergency help for travelers who are calling from U.S., 877/487–2778 passport information, 202/501–4444 emergency help for travelers calling from outside U.S. | www.travel.state.gov.

Eating Out

Meals and Mealtimes

You can eat well in Belize thanks to a gastronomic gumbo of Mexican, Caribbean, Mayan, Garífuna, English, and American dishes (on the American side, think fried chicken, pork chops, burgers, and T-bone steaks). On the coast and cayes, seafood—especially lobster, conch, snapper, and grouper—is fresh, relatively inexpensive, and delicious.

Try Creole specialties such as cow-foot soup (yes, made with real cows’ feet), “boil up” (a stew of fish, potatoes, plantains, cassava and other vegetables, and eggs), and the ubiquitous “stew chicken” with rice and beans. Many Creole dishes are seasoned with red or black recado, a paste made from annatto seeds and other spices.

In border areas, enjoy Mestizo favorites such as escabeche (onion soup), salbutes (fried corn tortillas with chicken and a topping of tomatoes, onions, and peppers), or garnaches (fried tortillas with refried beans, cabbage, and cheese).

In Dangriga, Hopkins, and Punta Gorda or other Garífuna areas, try dishes such as sere lasus (fish soup with plantain balls) or cassava dumplings.

Breakfast is usually served from 7 to 9, lunch from 11 to 2, and dinner from 6 to 9. Few restaurants are open late. Remember, though, that small restaurants may open or close at the whim of the owner. Off-season, restaurants may close early if it looks as if there are no more guests coming, and some restaurants close completely for a month or two, usually in September and October. Unless otherwise noted, the restaurants listed in this guide are open daily for lunch and dinner.

TIP Other than at hotels, Belize restaurants are often closed on Sunday.

Reservations and Dress

Reservations for meals are rarely needed in Belize or the Tikal area. The exceptions are for dinner at jungle lodges and at small restaurants where the owner or chef needs to know in advance how many people are dining that night. We mention reservations only when they’re essential.

A couple of restaurants in Belize City have a dress code, which basically means that you can’t wear shorts at dinner. We mention dress only when men are required to wear a jacket or a jacket and tie, which is nearly unheard of in Belize.

Electricity

There’s no need to bring a converter or adapter, as electrical current is 110 volts, the same as in the United States, and outlets take U.S.-style plugs. In a few remote areas lodges and hotels may generate their own electricity, and after the generators are turned off at night, power, if there’s any, comes only from storage batteries.

Emergencies

In an emergency, call 911 nationwide, or 90 in Belize City only. There are police stations in Belize City and in Belmopan City, in the towns of Benque Viejo, Corozal, Dangriga, Orange Walk, Punta Gorda, San Ignacio, and San Pedro, and in Placencia Village and a few other villages. Police try to respond quickly to emergencies, although lack of equipment, supplies, and training may sometimes reduce their effectiveness.

Police are generally polite, professional, and will do what they can to help. In Belize City and in most tourist areas, including Placencia and San Pedro, there are special tourist police whose job is to patrol areas where visitors are likely to go and to render any assistance they can, including providing directions.

There are checkpoints on most major highways in Belize, especially near border areas and around Belize City. Police officers may ask for your driver’s license or passport; just as frequently, they will wave you through.

Most Belizeans are extremely solicitous of the welfare of visitors to the country. In an emergency, it’s likely that bystanders or people in the area will gladly offer to help, usually going out of their way to render any assistance they can.

Your hotel can provide the names of nearby physicians and clinics. You can also go to the emergency room of public hospitals in Belize City and major towns. Don’t worry about payment—in an emergency, you’ll be treated regardless of your ability to pay, though after being treated you may be asked to pay what you can. Private hospitals (there are two in Belize City and one in San Ignacio) may ask for some guarantee of payment.

Guatemala police, overwhelmed at times by the amount of crime—in 2012 there were more than 400 murders a month in Guatemala—may not be able to respond effectively to emergencies. For tourist assistance in Guatemala, dial 1500 from any phone, or dial the equivalent of 911—either 120, 122, or 123. The good news is that the serious crime rate in both Belize and Guatemala has declined in recent years.

Health

Many medicines requiring a doctor’s prescription at home don’t require one in Belize; drugstores often sell prescription antibiotics, sleeping aids, and painkillers. However, pharmacies generally have a very small inventory, and only the most commonly prescribed drugs are available. In Belize private physicians often own an associated pharmacy, so they sell you the medicine they prescribe. A few pharmacies are open 24 hours and deliver directly to hotel rooms. Most hotel proprietors will direct you to such services.

Critters

Sand flies (also sometimes referred to as no-see-ums, or as sand fleas, which are a different insect) are common on many beaches, cayes, and in swampy areas. They can infect you with leishmaniasis, a disease that can cause the skin to develop sores that can leave scars. In rare cases, the visceral form of leishmaniasis, if untreated, can be fatal.

Use repellent containing at least a 30% concentration of DEET to help deter sand flies. Some say lathering on Avon’s Skin So Soft or any oily lotion such as baby oil helps, too, as it drowns the little bugs.

The botfly or beefworm is one of the most unpleasant of Central American pests. Botfly eggs are deposited under your skin with the help of a mosquito, where one can grow into larva, a large living worm. To rid yourself of your unwanted pal, cover the larva’s airhole in your skin with Vaseline, and after it suffocates you can remove it with a sterile knife. Or see your doctor. The good news is that unless you spend a lot of time in the bush in Belize, you are unlikely to encounter botflies.

Virtually all honeybees in Belize and Guatemala are Africanized. The sting of these killer bees is no worse than that of regular bees, but the hives are much more aggressive. Farm animals and pets frequently are killed by Africanized bees, and in 2013 a young Mennonite boy in northern Belize died after being stung hundreds of times in his backyard. If attacked by Africanized bees, try to get into a building, vehicle, or under water; protect your mouth, nose, and other orifices.

Scorpions are common in Belize and around Tikal. Their stings are painful, but not fatal. There are many venomous snakes in Belize and lowland Guatemala, including the notorious fer-de-lance and small but deadly coral snakes. Most visitors never even see a snake, but if bitten can go to medical centers for antivenom.

Crocodiles (called alligators by many Belizeans) are present in many lagoons and rivers, but very rarely are they known to attack humans.

Divers and snorkelers may experience “itchy itchy” or pica pica, a skin rash, in spring and early summer, when the tiny larvae of thimble jellyfish may get on the skin. Putting Vaseline or other greasy lotion on the skin before entering the water may help prevent the itch, and applying Benadryl, vinegar, or even Windex to the affected area may help stop the itch.

If you’re a light sleeper, you might want to pack earplugs. Monkeys howling through the night and birds chirping at the crack of dawn are only charming on the first night of your nature excursion.

Food and Drink

Belize has a high standard of health and hygiene, so the major health risk is sunburn, not digestive distress. You can drink the water in Belize City, the Cayo, Placencia, on Ambergris Caye, and in most other areas you’re likely to visit, though you may prefer the taste of bottled water. In remote villages, however, water may come from shallow wells or cisterns and may not be safe to drink.

On trips to Tikal or other areas in Guatemala, assume that the water isn’t safe to drink. Bottled water—agua mineral or agua pura in Spanish—is available even at the smallest tiendas (stores) and is cheaper than in the U.S. or Canada. Eating contaminated fruit or vegetables or drinking contaminated water (even ice) could result in a case of Montezuma’s revenge, or traveler’s diarrhea. Also skip uncooked food and unpasteurized milk and milk products.

Infectious Diseases

HIV/AIDS is an increasing concern in Central America. This is especially true in Belize, where the incidence on a per capita basis is the highest in the region.

According to the U.S. Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, there’s a limited risk of malaria, hepatitis A and B, dengue fever, typhoid fever, and rabies in Central America. In most urban or easily accessible areas you need not worry. However, if you plan to spend a lot of time in the jungles, rain forests, or other remote regions, or if you want to stay for more than six weeks, check the CDC website.

In areas where malaria and dengue are prevalent, sleep under mosquito nets. If you’re a real worrier, pack your own—it’s the only way to be sure there are no tears. Although most hotels in Belize have screened or glassed windows, your room probably won’t be completely mosquito-proof. Wear clothing that covers your arms and legs, apply repellent containing at least 30% DEET, and spray for flying insects in living and sleeping areas.

There’s no vaccine for dengue, but you can take antimalarial pills; chloroquine (the commonly recommended antimalarial for Belize and Guatemala) is sold as Aralen in Central America. It must be started a week before entering an area with malaria risk. Malarone is prescribed as an alternative, and it can be started only two days before arrival in a risk area. Don’t overstress about this: in Belize there are fewer than 1,000 reported cases of malaria a year, mostly in the far south, actually fewer cases than are reported in the United States. In Guatemala, El Petén is a risk area.

You should be up-to-date on shots for tetanus and hepatitis A and B. Children traveling to Central America should have current inoculations against measles, mumps, rubella, hepatitis, and polio.

Health Warnings
United States Centers for Disease Control & Prevention (CDC) | 800/232–4636 | www.cdc.gov.
World Health Organization (WHO) | www.who.int.

Medical Insurance and Assistance

Consider buying trip insurance with medical-only coverage. Neither Medicare nor some private insurers cover medical expenses anywhere outside of the United States. Medical-only policies typically reimburse you for medical care (excluding that related to preexisting conditions) and hospitalization abroad, and provide for evacuation. You still have to pay the bills and await reimbursement from the insurer, though.

Another option is to sign up with a medical-evacuation assistance company. A membership in one of these companies gets you doctor referrals, emergency evacuation or repatriation, 24-hour hotlines for medical consultation, and other assistance. A few credit cards, such as American Express Platinum, include medical evacuation among their perks. International SOS Assistance Emergency and AirMed International provide evacuation services and medical referrals. MedjetAssist offers medical evacuation.

Medical Assistance Companies
AirMed International. | 205/443–4840, 800/356–2161 | www.airmed.com.
MedjetAssist. | 800/527–7478 | www.medjetassist.com.

Hours of Operation

Belize is a laid-back place that requires a certain amount of flexibility when shopping or sightseeing. Small shops tend to open according to the whim of the owner, but generally operate 8–noon and 1–6. Larger stores and supermarkets in Belize City and in larger towns such as San Ignacio and San Pedro don’t close for lunch.

On Friday some shops close early, and many are only open a half day on Saturday. On Sunday, Belize takes it easy: few shops are open, and many restaurants outside of hotels are closed. Most Mayan sites in Belize are open 8–5. Guatemala’s Tikal ruins are open daily 6–6, with longer hours for those staying at lodges in the park.

Holidays

New Year’s Day (January 1); Baron Bliss Day (officially March 9, but observation date may vary); Good Friday; Holy Saturday; Easter Monday; Labour Day (May 1); Sovereign’s Day, also called Commonwealth Day (May 24); National Day (September 10); Independence Day (September 21); Columbus Day, also known as Pan-American Day (October 12); Garífuna Settlement Day (November 19); Christmas Day; Boxing Day (December 26).

Mail and Shipping

When sending mail to Central America, be sure to include the city or town and district, country name, and the words “Central America” in the address. Don’t use the abbreviation “CA” or your mail may end up in California, USA. Belizean mail service is very good, except to and from remote villages, and the stamps, mostly of wildlife, are beautiful. An airmail letter from Belize City takes about a week to reach the United States, longer—sometimes several weeks—from other areas.

An airmail letter to the United States is BZ60¢, a postcard, BZ30¢; to Europe, BZ75¢ for a letter, BZ40¢ for a postcard. The post office in Belize City is open Monday–Thursday 8–5 and Friday 8–4:30.

Express Services

If you have to send something fast, use FedEx or DHL Worldwide Express, which are expensive but do the job right. Both have offices in Belize City and agents elsewhere. In San Pedro, Mail Boxes Etc. can wrap and ship your packages.

Post Offices

There are two post offices in Belize City (N. Front Street and Queen Square) as well as in Belmopan, Benque Viejo, Caye Caulker, Corozal Town, Dangriga, Independence, Ladyville, Orange Walk Town, Placencia, Punta Gorda, San Pedro, and San Ignacio. Mail service from Belize City to and from the United States and other countries is generally fast and reliable (airmail to and from the United States usually takes about seven days). To and from outlying towns and villages service is slower, and for remote villages may take weeks. For faster, though expensive, service use DHL and FedEx.

Money

There are two ways of looking at the prices in Belize: Either it’s one of the cheapest countries in the Caribbean or one of the most expensive countries in Central America. A good hotel room for two will cost you upward of BZ$250; a budget one, as little as BZ$40. A meal in one of the more expensive restaurants will cost BZ$50–BZ$75 for one, but you can eat the classic Creole dish of stew chicken and rice and beans for BZ$8. Prices are highest in Belize City, Ambergris Caye and the Placencia peninsula.

Prices throughout this guide are given for adults. Substantially reduced fees are usually available for children, students, and senior citizens.

ATMs and Banks

Belize has three local banks: Heritage Bank | www.heritageibt.com, Atlantic Bank | www.atlabank.com, and Belize Bank|www.belizebank.com; and two international ones, First Caribbean International | www.cibcfcib.com, and ScotiaBank | www.belize.scotiabank.com. Hours vary, but are typically Monday–Thursday 8–2 and Friday 8–4. There is a branch of Atlantic Bank at the international airport, with longer hours. Belize Bank closed its branch at the international airport but still has an ATM there. All the banks have ATMs across the country that are open 24/7, though occasionally machines may run out of cash or are out of order.

Your own bank will probably charge a fee for using ATMs abroad; the foreign bank you use will also charge a fee. However, extracting funds as you need them is a safer option than carrying around a large amount of cash. That said, machines sometimes are down or out of money. As a backup, carry some U.S. currency, a credit card, and perhaps a few traveler’s checks.

ATMs in Belize give cash in Belize dollars. There are ATMs in Belize City (including two at the international airport), Corozal Town, Orange Walk Town, San Pedro, Caye Caulker, Belmopan, San Ignacio, Spanish Lookout, Dangriga, Hopkins, Placencia, and Punta Gorda. Most ATMs in Belize have a BZ$500 daily limit. Belize Bank’s 25 ATMs around the country take ATM cards issued outside Belize on the CIRRUS, MasterCard, PLUS, and Visa networks. Atlantic Bank’s 15 ATMs also accept foreign cards on the CIRRUS, MasterCard, PLUS and Visa networks. First Caribbean International Bank’s seven ATMs and ScotiaBank’s 11 ATMs around the country also accept foreign-issued ATM cards. Heritage Bank has ATMs, but as of this writing they only accept ATM cards issued in Belize. Other bank offices you see in Belize City or San Pedro are likely international banks; they are set up to do business with individuals and companies outside of Belize and do not provide retail banking services in Belize.

In the Petén you can get cash in quetzales from ATMs in Flores and Santa Elena.

The biggest employer in Belize—the Belize government—pays most employees on the 14th or 15th of the month, and on those days in particular banks in Belize are jammed, with customer lines often snaking around the outside of the building. Banks are also usually busy on Friday.

You should have a four-digit PIN. ATM scams—where the ATM “eats” your card or your PIN is stolen—are rare in Belize but increasingly common in Guatemala. Most banks offer cash advances on credit cards issued by Visa and MasterCard for a fee ranging from BZ$10 to BZ$30.

Belize City

Ambergris Caye

Northern Belize

The Cayo

The Southern Coast

The Deep South

Credit Cards

It’s a good idea to inform your credit-card company (debit-card companies, too) before you travel, especially if you’re going abroad and don’t travel internationally very often. Otherwise, the credit-card company might put a hold on your card owing to unusual activity—not a good thing halfway through your trip.

Record all your credit-card numbers—as well as the phone numbers to call if your cards are lost or stolen—in a safe place, so you’re prepared should something go wrong. Both MasterCard and Visa have general numbers you can call (collect if you’re abroad) if your card is lost, but you’re better off calling the number of your issuing bank, since MasterCard and Visa usually just transfer you to your bank; your bank’s number is usually printed on your card.

In Belize, MasterCard and Visa are widely accepted, American Express less so, and Discover and Diner’s hardly at all.

TIP Hotels, restaurants, shops, and tour operators in Belize sometimes levy a surcharge for credit-card use, usually 5% but ranging from 2% to 10%. This practice happily has become less common, but it still happens. If you use a credit card, ask if there’s a surcharge. Most credit-card issuers now also charge an international exchange fee, usually 2% to 3%, even if the foreign purchase is denominated in U.S. dollars.

Reporting Lost Cards
American Express. | 800/528–4800 in U.S., 954/473–2123 collect from abroad | www.americanexpress.com.
Discover. | 800/347–2683 in U.S., 801/902–3100 from abroad | www.discovercard.com.
MasterCard. | 800/627–8372 in U.S., 636/722–7111 collect from abroad including Belize | www.mastercard.com.
Visa. Visa is the most widely accepted credit card in Central America. | 800/847–2911 in U.S., 303/967–1096 from abroad including Belize | www.visa.com.

Currency and Exchange

Because the U.S. dollar is gladly accepted everywhere in Belize, there’s little need to exchange it. When paying in U.S. dollars, you may get change in Belize or U.S. currency, or in both.

The Belize dollar (BZ$) is pegged to the U.S. dollar at a rate of BZ$2 per US$1, and nearly all shops, stores, hotels, restaurants, and other businesses honor that exchange rate. Note, however, that moneychangers at Belize’s Mexico and Guatemala borders operate on a free-market system and pay a rate depending on the demand for U.S. dollars, sometimes as high as BZ$2.15 to US$1. Banks (and ATMs) generally exchange at BZ$1.98 or less.

The best place to exchange Belize dollars for Mexican pesos is in Corozal, or at the Mexico-Belize border where the exchange rate is quite good. At the Guatemala border near Benque Viejo del Carmen, you can exchange Belize or U.S. dollars for quetzales—moneychangers will approach you on the Belize side and also on the Guatemala side. Usually the money changers on the Guatemala side offer better rates.

When leaving Belize, you can exchange Belizean currency back to U.S. dollars (up to US$100) at Atlantic Bank at the international airport. The Belize dollar is difficult if not impossible to exchange outside of Belize.

In Belize most hotel, tour, and car-rental prices are quoted in U.S. dollars, while most restaurant prices are in Belize dollars. In this guide, all Belize prices are quoted in Belize dollars. Because misunderstandings can happen, if it’s not clear, always ask which currency is being used.

Traveler’s Checks

Traveler’s checks should be in U.S. dollars, and the American Express brand is preferred. Most hotels and travel operators accept traveler’s checks, and some restaurants and gift shops do. However, even in Belize City and popular tourist areas such as San Pedro, clerks at groceries and other shops may be reluctant to accept traveler’s checks or will have to get a supervisor’s approval to accept them. Some places charge a small fee, around 1% or 2%, if you pay with a traveler’s check. Most banks will cash them for a fee of 1% to 2%, but it may require a long wait in line. In all cases, you will need your passport in order to use or cash a traveler’s check.

Packing

Pack light. Baggage carts are scarce at Central American airports, and international luggage limits are increasingly tight. Tropic Air and Maya Island Air officially have 70-pound (32-kilogram) weight limits for checked baggage. However, in practice the airlines in Belize rarely weigh luggage, and if you’re a little over it’s usually no problem. Occasionally, if the flight on the small Cessna or other airplane is full and there’s a lot of luggage, some bags may be sent on the next flight, usually no more than an hour or two later.

Bring casual, comfortable, hand-washable clothing. T-shirts and shorts are acceptable near the beach and in tourist areas. More modest attire is appropriate in smaller towns, and the same long sleeves and pants will protect your skin from the ferocious sun and mosquitoes. Bring a hat to block the sun from your face and neck. If you’re on a boat, you’ll want a tight-fitting cap or hat with chinstrap to keep it from being blown away.

If you’re heading into the mountains or highlands, especially during the winter months, bring a light sweater, a jacket, and something warm to sleep in, as nights and early mornings can be chilly. Sturdy sneakers or hiking shoes or lightweight boots with rubber soles for wet or rocky surfaces are essential. A pair of sandals (preferably ones that can be worn in the water) are good, too.

Be sure to bring insect repellent, sunscreen, sunglasses, and an umbrella. Other handy items include tissues, a plastic water bottle, and a flashlight (for occasional power outages or use in areas without streetlights). A mosquito net for those roughing it is essential, but people staying in hotels or lodges—even budget-level ones—rarely need one. Snorkelers should consider bringing their own equipment, especially mask and snorkel, if there’s room in the suitcase. Divers will save money—typically BZ$50 a day in rentals—by bringing their own equipment. Sand and high humidity are enemies of your camera equipment. To protect it, consider packing your gear in plastic ziplock bags. Also bring your own condoms and tampons. You won’t find either easily or in familiar brands.

Passports and Visas

To enter Belize, only a valid passport is necessary for citizens of the United States, European Union countries, Australia, Canada, CARICOM member states, Commonwealth realms, Great Britain, Switzerland, Hong Kong, Mexico, Costa Rica, Chile, Guatemala, New Zealand, Norway, Iceland, Tunisia, South Africa, and Venezuela; no visa is required. Nationals of most other countries require a visa and/or clearance by the immigration office. Check the Belize Tourist Board website for updates on visas. You can also check with the Belize Immigration and Nationality Department, the Embassy of Belize in Washington, DC, or other Belize embassies.

If upon arrival the customs official asks how long you expect to stay in Belize, give the longest period you might stay—you may be granted a stay for up to 30 days on the tourist stamp you’ll receive for your passport on entry—otherwise, the official may endorse your passport with a shorter period.

You can renew your entry permit at immigration offices for a fee of BZ$50 per month for the first six months; after six months, it costs BZ$100 a month for up to six more months, at which time you may have to leave the country for 72 hours to start the process over (sometimes this rule isn’t enforced). Note that renewals aren’t guaranteed, but normally are routinely granted.

If you’re young with a backpack and entering Belize by land from Mexico or Guatemala, there’s a slight chance you’ll be asked to prove you have enough money to cover your stay. You’re supposed to have US$60 a day, though this requirement is rarely enforced. A credit card also may work.

Citizens of the United States, Canada, and most other Western countries do not need a visa when entering Guatemala from Belize.

U.S. Passport Information
U.S. Department of State. | 877/487–2778 passport information | www.state.gov.

Restrooms

You won’t find many public restrooms in Belize, but hotels and restaurants usually have clean, modern facilities with American-style—indeed American-made—toilets. Hot-water showers in Belize often are the on-demand type, powered by butane gas.

Restrooms in Guatemala use Western-style toilets, although bathroom tissue generally shouldn’t be flushed but discarded in a basket beside the toilet.

Find a Loo
The Bathroom Diaries. The Bathroom Diaries is flush with unsanitized info on restrooms the world over—each one located, reviewed, and rated. Unfortunately, only one bathroom is listed in Belize. | www.thebathroomdiaries.com.

Safety

Crime

There’s considerable crime in Belize City, but it rarely involves visitors. When it does, Belize has a rapid justice system: the offender often gets a trial within hours or days and, if convicted, can be sent to prison (“the Hattieville Ramada”) the same day. Tourist police patrol Fort George and other areas of Belize City where visitors convene. Police are particularly in evidence when cruise ships are in port. If you avoid walking around at night (except in well-lighted parts of the Fort George area), you should have no problems in Belize City.

Outside of Belize City, and possibly the rougher parts of Dangriga and Orange Walk Town, you’ll find Belize to be safe and friendly. Petty theft, however, is common all over, so don’t leave cameras, cell phones, and other valuables unguarded.

Thefts from budget hotel rooms occur occasionally. Given the hundreds of thousands of visitors to Belize, however, these incidents are isolated, and the vast majority of travelers never experience any crime in Belize.

The road from the Belize border toward Tikal has long been an area where armed robbers stopped buses and cars, and there also have been incidents at Tikal Park itself. In mid-2011 murderous attacks on Guatemalan farm workers and Guatemalan government officials in the Petén (including the decapitation of more than two-dozen workers on a farm southwest of Flores) allegedly by members of Mexico’s Los Zetas drug cartel prompted the U.S. Embassy in Belize to “strongly recommend against” travel to Flores and Tikal, but that has since been lifted. Ask locally about crime conditions before traveling to Tikal.

If you are an American citizen, consider enrolling in the U.S. Statement Department’s Smart Traveler Enrollment Program (travelregistration.state.gov/ibrs/ui), which makes it easier to locate you and your family in case of an emergency. Many other countries have similar programs.

Concerns for Women

Many women travel alone or in small groups in Belize without any problems. Machismo is not as much a factor in the former British Honduras as it is in Latin countries in the region. Unfortunately, in the past Guatemala has been the site of some disturbing assaults on women. These have occurred on buses, usually late at night in remote areas. Women should avoid making such trips alone. A more common complaint is catcalling, which is typically more of an annoyance than a legitimate threat. Most women, locals and foreigners alike, try to brush it off. That said, however, women make up a large percentage of the travelers in Guatemala, and the vast majority have positive experiences.

Scams

Most Belizeans and Guatemalans are extremely honest and trustworthy. It’s not uncommon for a vendor to chase you down if you accidentally leave without your change. That said, most organized scams arise with tours and packages, in which you’re sold a ticket that turns out to be bogus. Arrange all travel through a legitimate agency, and always get a receipt. If a problem does arise, the Belize Tourism Board or INGUAT may be able to help mediate the conflict.

Advisories and Other Information
Transportation Security Administration (TSA). | 866/289–9673 | www.tsa.gov.
U.S. Department of State. | www.travel.state.gov.

Taxes

The hotel tax in Belize is 9%, and a 12.5% Goods and Services Tax (GST) is charged on meals, tours, and other purchases at the hotel, along with most other purchases in Belize including car rentals and tours. The GST is supposed to be included in the cost of meals, goods, and services, but some businesses add the tax on instead. There has been discussion by the government of raising the hotel tax, likely to the 12.5% GST rate, but as of this writing no final decision has been made.

When departing the country by international air, even on a short hop to Flores, Guatemala, you’ll pay US$39.25 departure tax and fees. This must be paid in U.S. dollars or by credit card. However, most international airlines include the departure tax in the airline ticket price. Don’t pay twice—check your airline to see if the tax is included.

When leaving Belize by land to either Guatemala or Mexico, there’s a border exit fee of BZ$30, plus a conservation fee of BZ$7.50. This may be paid in either U.S. dollars or Belize dollars, but not by credit card. For departures by boat to Guatemala or Honduras, you’ll also pay the BZ$7.50 conservation fee and the BZ$30 exit fee, in U.S. or Belize dollars. Those in transit through Belize, staying less than 24 hours, can avoid paying the BZ$7.50 conservation fee but have to fork out the other taxes and fees.

Some Guatemalan hotels and some tourist restaurants charge a 10% to 20% tourist tax, though others include the tax in the price. The Guatemala airport-departure tax is US$30, plus an almost US$3 security fee. Guatemalan border officials often charge a Q20 fee (about US$2.50) when entering Guatemala at Melchor de Mencos, though this is not really official; however, it’s often easier just to pay the small amount than to raise a major fuss.

Time

Belize and Guatemala time is the same as U.S. Central Standard Time. Daylight saving time is not observed. (Note that Mexico does observe daylight saving time.)

Time Zones
Timeanddate.com. | www.timeanddate.com/worldclock.

Tipping

Belize restaurants rarely add a service charge, so in better restaurants tip 10%–15% of the total bill. At inexpensive places, leave small change or tip 10%. Many hotels and resorts add a service charge, usually 10%, to bills, so at these places additional tipping isn’t necessary. In general, Belizeans tend not to look for tips, though with increasing tourism this is changing. It’s not customary to tip taxi drivers.

In Guatemala, restaurant bills do not typically include gratuities; 10% is customary. Bellhops and maids expect tips only in the expensive hotels. Guards who show you around ruins and locals who help you find hotels or give you little tours should also be tipped. Children will often charge a quetzal to let you take their photo.

Tours

Archaeology

In Belize you can participate in a “dig” at a Mayan archaeological site, usually under the direction of a university archaeological team. Sessions run only a few weeks of the year, usually in spring or summer. Archaeological digs that accept volunteer workers are mostly in Orange Walk District. Archaeological programs start at around BZ$1,440 per person for a one-week volunteer session, and BZ$2,240 to BZ$3,500 for a two-week session. Some programs offer academic college credit. Prices don’t include transportation to Belize or incidental personal expenses.

Road Scholar, a division of Elderhostel, offers a 14-day program in Belize, Guatemala, and Honduras on the history of the Maya, with insight into modern-day issues affecting their community, starting at around US$3,385 per person. It also offers a 10-day Kingdoms of the Maya program, new in 2014, in Belize, Mexico, Honduras, and Guatemala for US$5,399 per person, and a nine-night Mystery of the Maya Program in Belize and Guatemala that combines snorkeling and visiting Maya sites for US$2,839 per person. All the Road Scholar programs include accommodations, meals, guides, field trips, and in-country transportation, but not flights to and from Belize. The Maya Research Program, established in 1992, has two-week volunteer programs in the Blue Creek area of Orange Walk District, at US$1,750 (US$1,500 for students). The University of Texas Mesoamerican Archaeological Research Laboratory (MARL) accepts volunteers at its field station in the Rio Bravo Conservation area of Orange Walk District, located on Programme for Belize lands. Volunteers (who pay a fee of US$645 to US$1,465 to participate, which covers room and board but not air fare to and from Belize) must commit for one to three weeks. The program usually runs from February to May, with other options in summer, some for a semester of academic credit. Volunteers live in a rustic dorm setting and learn the basics of field archaeology through lectures and hands-on experience.

Bird Watching

Nearly 600 species of birds have been spotted in Belize, and every year five or more additional species are found in the country. Birders flock to Belize to see exciting species such as the jabiru stork, the largest flying bird in the Western Hemisphere; the harpy eagle, the scarlet macaw; the keel-billed toucan, the national bird of Belize; 21 species of hummingbirds; and endangered or rare species such as the yellow-headed parrot, ocellated turkey, orange-breasted falcon, and chestnut-breasted heron. Birding hot spots in Belize include Crooked Tree Wildlife Sanctuary, the Mountain Pine Ridge, the area around Chan Chich Lodge at Gallon Jug, and the Cockscomb Basin.

When selecting a bird-watching tour, ask questions. What species might be seen? What are the guide’s qualifications? Does the operator work to protect natural habitats? How large are the birding groups? What equipment is used? (In addition to binoculars and a birding guidebook, this should include a high-powered telescope, a recorder to record and play back bird calls, and a spotlight for night viewing.) Trips can cost from BZ$1,600 per person for a six-day/five-night birding trip, including guides, lodging, and some meals. On an à la carte basis, short birding hikes with a local guide cost from BZ$30 per person, though at some jungle lodges such as Chaa Creek local birding hikes are free.

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours (VENT) has 2014 tours to Chan Chich. Wildside Nature Tours has 14-day birding trips in 2014 that visit Crooked Tree, Cockscomb, Cayo, and Tikal, from US$3,900 per person, not including airfare.

Culture Tours and Homestays

Homestays and village guesthouse stays in Mayan villages in Toledo District are offered by Toledo Ecotourism Association and Maya Villages Homestay Program, local organizations in the Punta Gorda area. These stays are very inexpensive, typically less than BZ$100 per day including meals and activities, but accommodations are basic.

Fishing

The best-known fishing lodges in Belize are high-end resorts catering to affluent anglers who, after a hard day on the water, expect ice-cold cocktails, equally icy air-conditioning, and Sealy Posturepedic mattresses. El Pescador on North Ambergris Caye, two lodges on Turneffe Atoll (Turneffe Flats and Turneffe Island Lodge), and several beach resorts in Placencia and Hopkins offer fishing with a touch of luxury—everything from guides to cold drinks included. Fishing travel companies like Rod & Reel Adventures typically book with fishing lodges.

If you want a less expensive fishing vacation, you can make your own arrangements for lodging and meals and hire your own local fishing guides in San Pedro, Placencia, Hopkins, Punta Gorda, and elsewhere. Destinations Belize in Placencia is a compromise between a total package and doing it all yourself. The owner, Mary Toy, can help you arrange moderate accommodations, some meals, and guides for light-tackle or fly-fishing day trips (or for longer periods). She also puts together moderately priced packages for fishing in Placencia and elsewhere in southern Belize.

Horseback Riding

U.S. Based Equitours offers riding tour packages in the Cayo. A six-day, five-night trip is US$950 per person. There is a maximum 200-pound weight limit.

Kayaking

There are two types of kayaking trips: base kayaking and expedition kayaking. On a base kayaking trip you have a home base—usually a caye—from which you take day trips (or longer). On an expedition-style trip you travel from island to island or up mainland rivers. Typically, base kayaking is easier, but expedition kayaking is more adventurous.

G Adventures (formerly GAP Adventures) has a weeklong island-hopping kayak trip, starting and ending in Placencia, for around BUS$1,650 per person, not including air fare to Belize. You paddle for two to four hours a day, with stops at several cayes. Typically, about 10 people are on the kayak trip.

Island Expeditions does complete expedition packages, several of which combine sea and river kayaking and base and expedition aspects.

Multisport

Multisport simply means that you can take part in a series of different activities—hiking, kayaking, cave tubing, birding, swimming, snorkeling.

Many Belize adventure trips include a bunch of different activities. For example, the eight-day Land of Belize trip offered by Adventure Center (US$1,050 per person not including meals) starts with a day in Belize City, then moves on to caving, biking, and hiking in the Cayo, followed by a visit to Tikal, and ending with snorkeling or diving off Caye Caulker. Adventure Life offers an 11-day Ultimate Adventure tour, at US$2,499 per person, with jungle hiking, paddling, snorkeling, and visits to Mayan sites. Island Expeditions’ 10-night Ultimate Adventure trip (US$2,499 per person, including taxes and government fees) combines sea kayaking, snorkeling, and optional diving at Glover’s Atoll with a river trip on the Moho in Toledo District.

Photo Safari

Nature Photography Adventure runs a “Secrets of the Maya” weeklong photo safari to Belize and Tikal. The company also has a “Wild Bunch” photo-safari trip to Belize and Guatemala, with an emphasis on remote caves. You have to be reasonably physically fit to join this trip. The 2014 trip is US$3,260–US$3,560 per person, not including air travel to Belize.

Special Interest

International Zoological Expeditions has eight- to 10-day trips, usually with an educational component such as ethnobotanical walks or mapping an island. IZE’s trips combine time inland at Blue Creek in Toledo and at South Water Caye.

Online Resources

For information on Belize, your first stop should be the official site of the Belize Tourism Board at www.travelbelize.org. Belize Explorer (www.belizeexplorer.com), formerly the ToucanTrail.com site operated by the BTB, now is a private site that provides information on budget hotels—those priced under US$70 double. The Belize Tourism Industry Association (www.btia.org) also provides visitor information, mainly through information offices and monthly publications for visitors in Placencia and Punta Gorda.

The Belize Forums (www.belizeforum.com/belize) is an active online community of Belize visitors and residents; many regulars are happy to answer questions, though occasionally discussions become heated. Also, Lan Sluder, the author of this guide and other books on Belize, has his own site called www.belizefirst.com.

Belize Bus Blog (belizebus.wordpress.com) has detailed and comprehensive information on bus, water taxi, shuttle, and other transportation in Belize.

For destination-specific information, check out Ambergriscaye.com for San Pedro; GoCayeCaulker.com and CayeCaulker.org for Caye Caulker; BelmopanCityOnline.com for Belmopan; Belizex.com for the Cayo district and elsewhere; Placencia.com and DestinationsBelize.com for Placencia; SouthernBelize.com for Punta Gorda and southern Belize; HopkinsBelize.com and CometoHopkins.com for the Hopkins area; and NorthernBelize.com and Corozal.com for northern Belize. There also are hundreds of personal blogs on living in and visiting Belize.

For information on Guatemala, contact that country’s tourist board, INGUAT.

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