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Best of Provence | Best of the French Riviera
Best of Provence
If you want to focus only on the best of Provence—its history, its architecture, its markets, and its cafés—devote your time to the “three As”: Avignon, Aix, and Arles, as well as the area between them that anchors the heart of the region.
Days 1–2: Avignon
Nowadays the population of Avignon swells most during the extensive midsummer Drama Festival that sees the gateway city to Provence at its liveliest. Yet this historic town, with its protective medieval ring of muscular towers, is seldom dull at any time of year. In the 14th century, this was the center of Christendom, when French-born Pope Clement V shifted the papacy from Rome to Avignon’s magnificent Palais des Papes (Papal Palace). Spend your first day viewing the palace, the Pont St-Bénezet, and the Rocher des Doms Park, then escape into the cobblestone alleys to see the Avignonnais living their daily lives. Pop into the Musée Angladon to view Van Gogh’s Wagons de Chemin de Fer and then head to the modern and contemporary museum, the Collection Lambert, which recently reopened its doors after nearly five years. The next morning, head to one of the city’s food or flea markets or to the gorgeous indoor Marché des Halles with its 40 local vendors (open daily except Monday) and pick up a snack for an afternoon road trip 25 km (15 miles) west of Avignon to the three-tier stone spectacle that is the Pont du Gard, built in 19 BC as an aqueduct by the ancient Romans and known today as one of the wonders of the classical world.
Day 3: St-Rémy
Escape to “the Hamptons of Provence,” the picturesque town of St-Rémy-de-Provence, where mellow 18th-century mansions line the streets, the main ones leading to St-Paul-de-Mausolée, the ancient monastery where Vincent van Gogh spent some of his most productive months. From here, take a 90-minute guided tour “In the Footsteps of Vincent Van Gogh,” or pick up a free map from the tourist office and make your own tour. Stop for lunch at the Café de Place before heading to the 6th-century archaeological site Glanum. You then might want to squeeze in Les Baux-de-Provence, one of the country’s most spectacular perched villages.
Days 4–5: Arles and the Camargue
Head 33 km (21 miles) southwest to Arles, which competes with Nîmes for the title “Rome of France” thanks to its famous Roman theater, arenès (amphitheater), Alyscamps, and Cryptoporticus. All the main sights are in the small vieille ville (Old Town), speckled with pockets where time seems to have stood still since 1888, the year Vincent van Gogh immortalized the town in his paintings. Study reproductions of the best canvases, which have come to define Provence as much as its herbs and traditional costumes, at Arles’s Fondation Vincent van Gogh and see the places he painted along the town’s Promenade Vincent van Gogh. Just off the Rond-Point des Arrènes, have your camera ready for a stroll up Rue Ernest Renan, the idyllic Provençal street. Over at the 15th-century priory, the Musée Réattu (the first fine art museum in the country to have a photography section) has more Van Gogh, as well as a collection of Picasso drawings. Underneath Forum Square, wildly famous for Van Gogh’s Starry Night, you’ll discover the Cryptoporticus du Forum, with foundations dating back to 1 BC.
Day 5: Camargue
At least a day is needed to take in the neighboring Camargue, famed for its pink flamingos, black bulls, white horses, and gardens—one of the most unique natural preserves in France. Use Ste-Maries-sur-Mer, where gypsies from around the world pilgrimage to honor their parton saint Sarah, as your base and spend the morning riding the chevals blancs (white horses) along the spectacular sandy beaches. If you happen to arrive during one of the processions, horsefairs, or bullfights, you’re in for a treat—but otherwise you can roam the cobblestone streets and climb the tower of the 9th century church. Inquire at the tourist office about bus, bike, or walking tours of Camargue National Regioanal Park, a UNSECO World Heritage site.
Days 6–7: Aix-en-Provence
The museums and churches in Aix are overshadowed by the town itself, an enchanting beauty with elegant hôtels particuliers (mansions), luxurious fountains gracing every square, and an architectural layout that attests to Aix’s prominent past as the 17th-century cultural and political capital of Provence. Walking is not only the easiest way to get around but also the best, as the center is a maze of narrow streets and lovely squares where people and café tables take up every available inch. The tree-lined Cours Mirabeau divides old Aix in half, with the Quartier Ancien’s medieval streets to the north and the 18th-century mansions of the Quartier Mazarin to the south. Connecting most of the dots—including such sightseeing musts as the Musée Granet, the Cathédrale St-Sauveur, and the gorgeous Pavillon de Vendôme—is the Paul Cézanne Trail, which allows you to follow in the footsteps of Aix’s most famous native son, from his studio and his Jas de Bouffan home to his favorite hangout, the Café-Brasserie Les Deux Garçons.
Best of the French Riviera
To hit the highlights of this sun-blessed region and get up close and personal with the tropical glamour of the Côte d’Azur, here’s a weeklong itinerary that allows you to get a good feel for what makes the Riviera famous—and wonderful. Make like a movie star and follow the coastline from Antibes to St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, hitting the best beaches, circling the emerald-green capes, perusing the markets, and making the requisite hill-town stop. Other than St-Paul-de-Vence, all destinations here are on the coast and linked by the wonderful coastal railway.
Day 1: Antibes
Sitting on the western side of the Baie des Anges (Bay of Angels), Antibes is a heavenly place. While a bustling town, it also has a waterfront quarter that is so picturesque you’ll be tempted to set up an easel just like Picasso, whose works are on view in the town’s Château Grimaldi. The surrounding alleys are a maze of enchantment with the Cours Massena overflowing with charm and Le Safranier, a historic quarter of tiny cobblestone streets and flower box–filled windowsills. Then enjoy a day of tropical hedonism on the Cap d’Antibes, a rocky promontory (which juts out into the Bay of Millionaires) adorned with Gilded Age mansions, one of which, the Villa Eilenroc, is open to the public. Catch the sunset at Plage des Ondes, a sandy public beach frequented by locals.
Day 2: St-Paul-de-Vence
Drive up to the pretty perched medieval village of St-Paul for a gorgeous panoramic selfie and work up an appetite by perusing the endless galleries before heading to lunch at the Picasso-blessed Colombe d’Or (the point of any trip to the Riviera—reservations absolutely essential). A digestive walk around the Fondation Maeght for a glance at the Giacometti courtyard comes highly recommended.
Day 3: Haut-des-Cagnes
Could this be the most beautiful village in southern France? Part-time residents Renoir, Soutine, Modigliani, and Simone de Beauvoir are just a few who thought so. You will forever dream about this place after leaving: with its tiny medieval streets, array of 15th- and 17th-century houses, corkscrew alleys, and vaulted arches draped with bougainvillea, it is a lovely dip into the Middle Ages. Many of the pretty residences are like dollhouses (especially the hobbit houses on Rue Passebon) but looming over all is the medieval town castle, with a grand Renaissance courtyard and three quirky collections. Head back to Cagnes-sur-Mer for an afternoon beverage at one of the many beach cafés.
Days 4–5: Nice
Just 15 minutes from Haut-des-Cagnes by train, Nice is the big-city leg of your trip, so immerse yourself in culture: the Matisse and Chagall museums, set in the Cimiez suburb high over the city, or the cutting-edge modern art museum. Start the day, though, at the magnificent Cours Saleya Market, which shuts down by 1 pm—if you’re up early enough, you can watch the chefs squabble over the best produce. Then stroll through the labyrinthine Old Town. A few steps away lies the shoreline, where you can spend an hour or two strolling the famed Promenade des Anglais bordering Nice’s vast crescent of beach. Amble toward the port and you’ll find La Promenade des 100 Antiquaires, which runs up to Place Garibaldi. Rent a lounger for a half-day and enjoy the relaxing sea breeze and sunshine.
Day 6: Villefranche-sur-Mer and St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat
Either of the pretty ports of Villefranche or St-Jean will take you back to the days before the Riviera became the land of pink concrete, and both offer easy access to the tropical glories of Cap Ferrat and the sky-kissing perched village of Èze. First, marvel at Villefranche’s deep blue bay, study the hillside estates, and visit the town’s Chapelle St-Pierre, decorated by Jean Cocteau. Then take the bus or walk over to Cap Ferrat, a favorite getaway of the sunglasses-and-sapphires set. Be sure to tour the art-charged rooms and expansive gardens of the Villa Ephrussi-Rothschild. Or set out to do a half-hour hike along the Promenade Maurice Rouvier (lots of movie stars do their power-walking here) to nearby Beaulieu-sur-Mer, home to the fabulous recreation of ancient Greece that is the Villa Kerylos.
Day 7: Èze
Your final excursion should be to the sky-high village of Èze, an eagle’s-nest wonder threaded by stone alleys that lead to the most spectacular vistas of the coast. One step higher and you will be, indeed, in paradise. Both Fragonard and Galimard perfumeries have boutiques here and offer free tours, but you also can take a perfume workshop guided by a professional nose (or for those who prefer the smell of burning rubber to lavender, you can test-drive a Lamborghini from outside Fragonard’s factory). Take the free shuttle back down to the coast and then the train to Nice to get back home.