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Aigues-Mortes | Parc Régional de Camargue | Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
A land of haunting natural beauty, the Camargue was one of the forgotten areas of France only a few decades ago. Today, thousands of visitors come to discover its peculiar ecosystem and a wild, quirky culture that’s just as unique.
Aigues-Mortes
39 km (24 miles) south of Nîmes; 45 km (28 miles) southwest of Arles.
Like a tiny illumination in a medieval manuscript, Aigues-Mortes (pronounced “ay-guh- mort-uh”) is a precise and perfect miniature fortress-town, contained within perfectly symmetrical castellated walls, with streets laid out in geometric grids. Now awash in a flat wasteland of sand, salt, and monotonous marsh, it once was a major port town from whence no less than St-Louis himself (Louis IX) set sail to conquer Jerusalem in the 13th century. In 1248 some 35,000 zealous men launched 1,500 ships for Cyprus, engaging the enemy on his own turf and suffering swift defeat; Louis himself was briefly taken prisoner. A second launching in 1270 led to more crushing losses, after which Louis finally succumbed to typhus in Tunis.
Getting Here and Around
Several trains a day run to Aigues-Mortes from Nîmes. The trip takes 45 minutes to an hour and costs €8.30. Edgard Transport’s C32 bus runs every two hours from Nîmes to Aigues-Mortes. The trip takes an hour and costs €1.50 each way. By car, take the A9 to exit Gallargues (direction Aimargues–St-Laurent-d’Aigouze) and take the D979 directly to Aigues-Mortes.
Visitor Information
Aigues-Mortes Tourist Office. | Pl. St. Louis | 04–66–53–73–00 | www.ot-aiguesmortes.fr.
Tour et Remparts d’Aigues Mortes.
The walls and towers of this Gothic fortress, once a state-of-the-art marvel, are astonishingly well preserved. The stout ramparts now contain the tourist-filled village of Aigues-Mortes, but the visit is more than justified by the impressive scale of the original structure, and the vistas of the surrounding Camargue are stunning. Temporary exhibitions along the ramparts are held in summer, as well as a permanent exhibition on history of Protestantism in the region. | Pl. Anatole France, Porte de la Gardette | 04–66–53–61–55 | €7.50 | May–Aug., daily 10–7; Sept.–Apr., daily 10–5:30.
Place St-Louis.
A 19th-century statue of the father of the fleur-de-lis reigns under shady pollards on this square with a mellow village feel, a welcome retreat from the clutter of souvenir shops on surrounding lanes. The pretty, bare-bones Église Notre-Dame des Sablons, on one corner of the square, has a timeless air (the church dates from the 13th century, but the stained glass is modern), and the spectacular Chapelle des Pénitents Blancs and Chapelle des Pénitents Gris are Baroque-era marvels. | Aigues-Mortes |.
Where to Eat and Stay
Chez Bob.
$$$$ | FRENCH | In a smoky, isolated stone farmhouse filled with old posters, you’ll taste Camargue cooking at its rustic best. There’s only the daily four-course menu (€45), which can include anything from anchoïade (crudités with hard-cooked egg—still in the shell—and anchovy vinaigrette) to homemade duck pâté thick with peppercorns, and often features the pièce de résistance: a thick, sizzling slab of bull steak grilled in the roaring fireplace. Sprinkle on hand-skimmed sea salt and dig in while listening to the migrating birds pass by. Sunday at lunch, professional musicians add to the already authentic ambience. | Average main: €45 | Mas Petite Antonelle, D37, Rte. du Sambuc, Villeneuve-Gageron | 04–90–97–00–29 | www.restaurantbob.fr | Closed Mon. and Tues. No dinner Sun. | Reservations essential.
L’Atelier de Nicolas.
$$$ | BISTRO | Laid back and unpretentious though it may be, when it comes to the food, chef Nicolas Epiard is on his toes, serving up traditional local cuisine with a flair and exuberance that makes this unassuming restaurant one of the best choices in town. Modern style, an open kitchen, and a chalkboard menu—and a bright outdoor terrace—add to the casual feel, while the warm and friendly service enhances the dining experience. But it’s the freshness of the food that really shines—dishes like a meltingly tender slow-cooked bull (a local specialty) served with wild morels and a puree of root vegetables; or sea bass served with savory herb pistou (Provence’s answer to pesto) and crisp local vegetables. Desserts like fig crumble or white chocolate mousse are hard to resist. All this washed down with a refreshing local rosé (the locally influenced wine list has plenty of choices by the glass) adds up to an exemplary dining experience that’s easy on the wallet. | Average main: €25 | 28 rue A. Lorraine | 04–34–28–04–84 | Closed Wed., and Thurs. Sept.–June.
Les Arcades.
$$ | B&B/INN | This beautifully preserved 16th-century house has large, airy guest accommodations, some with tall windows overlooking a green courtyard. Pristine white-stone walls, color-stained woodwork, and rubbed-ocher walls frame antiques and lush fabrics. Each room is named according to a local bird whose portrait, colorfully portrayed with a modern flair, determines the room’s color scheme. The peaceful sky-blue Avocette room, with beamed ceilings and a chandelier, is the largest. Breakfast (€10) can be eaten on a little terrace by the pool. Pros: rooms overlook lovely courtyard; free parking card provided at check-in. Cons: not much English spoken at hotel. | Rooms from: €115 | 23 bd. Gambetta | 04–66–53–81–13 | www.les-arcades.fr | No credit cards | 9 rooms | No meals.
Les Templiers.
$$ | HOTEL | In a 17th-century residence within the ramparts, this delightful hotel sets the stage with stone, stucco, and terra-cotta floors. Furnishings are classically simple and softened with antiques. Try the quaint little restaurant in the hotel—they’ll happily cook a whole side of beef in the fireplace or serve up a perfectly grilled Mediterranean fish. On the ground floor are two small, cozy sitting areas; breakfast, weather permitting, is served in the small flower-filled courtyard. Pros: the welcome is wonderfully warm; space is charmingly intimate—you’ll feel right at home in no time. Cons: some rooms are small; amenities are lacking (no minibars). | Rooms from: €125 | 23 rue de la République | 04–66–53–66–56 | 12 rooms, 2 suites | No meals.
Villa Mazarin.
$$ | HOTEL | Despite being in the center of town, you may find it difficult to sleep because it’s so quiet at the lovely Villa Mazarin. In fact, the romantic setting, Provençal style, and charming staff will only add to your disbelief that a getaway this exquisite exists. Guests at Villa Mazarin get so attached to the spacious rooms, heated indoor pool, and private garden (ideal for lingering over breakfast) that they quickly book in advance for next year’s trip, further enticed by the fact that there’s free parking close by. Pros: indoor heated swimming pool; lots of amenities; Clarins products in bathroom. Cons: restaurant on the pricey side; books up quickly. | Rooms from: €140 | 35 bd. Gambetta | 04–66–73–90–48 | www.villamazarin.com | 23 rooms.
Parc Régional de Camargue
57 km (35 miles) south of Nîmes; 28 km (17 miles) southwest of Arles.
For 1,500 square km (580 square miles), the vast alluvial delta of the Rhône River known as the Camargue stretches to the horizon, an austere marshland unrelievedly flat, scoured by the mistral, swarmed over by mosquitoes. Between the endless flow of sediment from the Rhône and the erosive force of the sea, its shape is constantly changing. Yet its harsh landscape harbors a concentration of exotic wildlife unique in Europe, and its isolation has given birth to an ascetic and ancient way of life that transcends national stereotype. It is a strange region, one worth discovering slowly, either on foot or on horseback—especially as its wildest reaches are inaccessible by car. If people find the Camargue interesting, birds find it irresistible. Its protected marshes lure some 400 species, including more than 160 in migration—little egrets, gray herons, spoonbills, bitterns, cormorants, redshanks, and grebes, and the famous flamingos. All this nature surrounds a few far-flung villages, rich in the region’s odd history and all good launching points for forays into the marshlands.
Getting Here and Around
The best way to explore the park is by car. Roads around and throughout the park have parking areas from which you can set out on foot. You can also explore by bicycle, boat, on horseback, or guided tour. Detailed information on trails and rentals can be found at the tourist offices of both Aigues-Mortes and Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer—the park’s major points of entry—and through the Camargue’s main Centre d’Information Parc Naturel Camargue at La Capelière (on the D36b road, 25 km [15½ miles] from Arles).
Visitor Information
Centre d’Information de la Réserve Nationale de Camargue. | 5 km (3 miles) south of Villeneuve/Romieu, off D37 | 04–90–97–00–97 | www.parc-camargue.fr.
Centre d’Information du Parc Naturel Régional de Camargue. | D570, | Saintes Maries de la Mer | 04–90–97–10–40 | www.parc-camargue.fr.
Exploring
Fodor’s Choice | Bureau des Guides Naturalistes.
Covering nearly 1,000 square miles, the triangle between the Camargue, Crau, and the Alpilles (known by naturalists as the triangle d’or de la biodiversité) is France’s—and one of the world’s—most biodiverse regions, home to myriad plant and wildlife species, many rare or endangered. Frédéric Bouvet, an ornithologist who studied extensively in England, is one of four naturalists who offer tours of this exceptional area. The only English-speaking guide of the bunch, Bouvet organizes small, personalized outings focusing on birdlife in any part of the region conducted year-round. Tours are customized to your interests, last either a half day or a full day (or up to several days if desired), and can start anywhere in or near the area, depending on the tour and where you are located. For example, his tour in search of the eagle owl, the world’s largest nocturnal bird, begins at nightfall. A natural raconteur, Bouvet’s passion, enthusiasm, and exceptional knowledge assure an experience—and sights—you will not soon forget. | Arles | 06–20–70–09–61 | www.guide-nature.fr/camargue-crau-alpilles | €190 half-day, €270 full-day.
Domaine de Méjanes Paul Ricard.
Near the northern shore of the Etang de Vaccarès, one of the larger ranches in the Camargue has now been turned into a showplace for all things taurine. Bullfights, ferrades, horse rides, and spectacles taurine (bull-baiting) are just some of the activities offered at the Domaine de Méjanes Paul Ricard, 4 km (2½ miles) north of Albaron on D37. Funded by the Ricard pastis family, this unique cultural center allows you to see and meet gardiens (French cowboys). You’ll learn about the history of the toro, or bull, virtually a totemic animal in these parts. The regional spectacle is the cours camarguaise, in which bulls are not killed in the arena, simply taunted by raseteurs (runners) who try to pluck off a red cockade and two white tassels mounted on the bull’s horns. There is no mise à mort (as in the bloody and cruel Spanish corrida); bulls live to enter the arena again and again, and some become such celebrities they make the covers of French magazines. At the Domaine, you can also ride a petit train for a 20-minute tour of the marshlands. | D37, on edge of Etage de Vacarrès | 04–90–97–10–10 | www.mejanes.camargue.fr.
Musée de la Camargue.
North of the village of Albaron, between Arles and Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, this former sheep ranch is now a museum devoted to the region’s history, produce, and people, including the gardians. It’s also a good place to pick up information about nature trails. | Mas de Pont de Rousty, D570, | Albaron | 04–90–97–10–82 | www.museedelacamargue.com | €5 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–12:30 and 1–6; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–12:30 and 1–5.
Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau (Pont du Gau Ornithological Park).
The easiest place to view birdlife is the Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau. On some 150 acres of marsh and salt lands, birds are welcomed and protected (but in no way confined); injured birds are treated and kept in large pens, to be released if and when able to survive. A series of boardwalks (including a short, child-friendly inner loop) snakes over the wetlands, the longest leading to an observation blind, where a half hour of silence, binoculars in hand, can reveal unsuspected satisfactions. | D570, 5 km (3 miles) north of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, | Saintes Maries de la Mer | 04–90–97–82–62 | www.parcornithologique.com | €7.50 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9–sunset; Oct.–Mar., daily 10–sunset.
Parc Régional de Camargue.
As you drive the few roads that crisscross the Camargue, you’ll usually be within the boundaries of the Parc Régional de Camargue. Unlike state and national parks in the United States, this area is privately owned and utilized within rules imposed by the state. The principal owners, the famous manadiers (the Camargue equivalent of a small-scale rancher), with the help of their gardians, keep it for grazing their wide-horned bulls and their broad-bellied, white-dappled horses. It is thought that these beasts are the descendents of ancient, indigenous wild animals, and though they’re positively bovine in their placidity today, they still bear the noble marks of their ancestors. The strong, heavy-tailed Camargue horse has been traced to the Paleolithic period (though some claim the Moors imported an Arab strain) and is prized for its stolid endurance and tough hooves. The curved-horned taureau (bull), if not indigenous, may have been imported by Attila the Hun. When it’s not participating in a bloodless bullfight (mounted players try to hook a ribbon from the base of its horns), a bull may well end up in the wine-rich regional stew called gardianne de taureau. Riding through the marshlands in leather pants and wide-rimmed black hats and wielding long prongs to prod their cattle, the gardians themselves are as fascinating as the wildlife. Their homes—tiny, white-washed, cane-thatched huts with the north end raked and curved apselike against the vicious mistral—dot the countryside. The signature wrought-iron crosses at the gable invoke holy protection, and if God isn’t watching over this treeless plain, they ground lightning. | www.parc-camargue.fr.
Réserve Nationale de Camargue.
If you’re an even more committed nature lover, venture into this inner sanctum of the Camargue, an intensely protected area that contains the central pond called Le Vaccarès, mostly used for approved scientific research. The wildlife (birds, nutria, fish) is virtually undisturbed here, but you won’t come across the cabins and herds of bulls and horses that most people expect from the Camargue.
Where to Stay
Mas de Peint.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Sitting on roughly 1,250 acres of Camargue ranch land, this exquisite 17th-century farmhouse may just offer the ultimate mas experience. A study in country elegance, the rooms have beautifully preserved 400-year-old beams, carefully polished stone floors, and creamy linen fabrics all tastefully complemented by brass beds, claw-foot bathtubs, and natural, soft Provençal colors. It is farmland and so children (and mosquitoes) have a good time here. The small restaurant, charmingly decorated with checked curtains, paysanne chairs, and fresh roses on every table, is worth the trip even if you can’t stay the night. Sophisticated specialties often rely on homegrown ingredients, such as roasted tuna flank with escargots à la provençale, or grilled game hen with baby potatoes and cinnamon-flavor beets. Pros: isolated setting makes for a romantic getaway; staff offers a warm welcome; no detail is missed in service or style. Cons: make sure you confirm room has a shower; unheated pool is a tad chilly, even in September; not much to do once sun goes down. | Rooms from: €270 | D36, 20 km (12 miles) south of Arles, | Le Sambuc | 04–90–97–20–62 | www.masdepeint.com | Closed mid-Nov.–late Dec. and Jan.–late Mar. | 8 rooms, 5 suites | No meals.
Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer
31 km (19 miles) southeast of Aigues-Mortes; 40 km (25 miles) southwest of Arles.
The principal town within the confines of the Parc Régional de Camargue, Stes-Maries became a pilgrimage town due to its fascinating history. Provençal legend has it that around AD 45 a band of the first Christians was rounded up and set adrift at sea in a boat without a sail and without provisions. Their stellar ranks included Mary Magdalene, Martha, and Mary Salome, mother of apostles James and John; Mary Jacoby, sister of the Virgin; and Lazarus, risen from the dead (or another Lazarus, depending on whom you ask). Joining them in their fate: a dark-skinned servant girl named Sarah. Miraculously, their boat washed ashore at this ancient site, and the grateful Marys built a chapel in thanks. Martha moved on to Tarascon to tackle dragons, and Lazarus founded the church in Marseille. But Mary Jacoby and Mary Salome remained in their old age, and Sarah stayed with them, begging in the streets to support them in their ministry. The three women died at the same time and were buried together at the site of their chapel.
A cult grew up around this legendary spot, and a church was built around it. When in the 15th century a stone memorial and two female bodies were found under the original chapel, the miracle was for all practical purposes confirmed, and the Romanesque church expanded to receive a new influx of pilgrims. But the pilgrims attracted to Stes-Maries aren’t all lighting candles to the two St. Marys: the servant girl Sarah has been adopted as an honorary saint by the Gypsies of the world, who blacken the crypt’s domed ceiling with the soot of their votive candles lighted in her honor.
To honor the presiding spirits of Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer, two extraordinary festivals take place every year in Stes-Maries, one May 24–25 and the other on the Sunday nearest to October 22. On May 24 Gypsy pilgrims gather from across Europe and carry the wooden statue of Sarah from her crypt, through the streets of the village, and down to the sea to be washed. The next day they carry a wooden statue of the two St. Marys, kneeling in their wooden boat, to the sea for their own holy bath. The same ritual is repeated by a less colorful crowd of non-Gypsy pilgrims on October 22, who carry the two Marys back to the sea.
Getting Here and Around
The nearest train station with bus connections to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer is in Arles. Several buses a day run from Arles to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer. The company serving this area is Envia, which runs buses up to seven times a day (line 20), depending on the season. The trip takes about one hour and costs €1 one-way. By car—your best bet by far—take the A54 and at exit 4 take the D570 directly to Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer.
Visitor Information
Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer Tourist Office. | 5 av. Van Gogh | 04–90–97–82–55 | www.saintesmaries.com.
Exploring
As you enter this town’s mammoth and medieval cathedral, the Église des Stes-Maries, you’ll notice an oddity that wrenches you back to this century: a sign on the door forbids visitors to come torse nu (topless). For outside its otherworldly role as the pilgrimage center hallowed as the European landfall of the Virgin Mary, Stes-Maries is first and foremost a beach resort, dead-flat, whitewashed, and more than a little tacky. Unless you’ve made a pilgrimage to the sun and sand, you probably won’t want to spend much time in the town center. And if you’ve chosen Stes-Maries as a base for viewing the Camargue, consider one of the discreet country inns outside the city limits.
Église des Stes-Maries.
What is most striking to a visitor entering the damp, dark, and forbidding fortress-church Église des Stes-Maries is its novel character. Almost devoid of windows, its tall, barren single nave is cluttered with florid and sentimental ex-votos (tokens of blessings, prayers, and thanks) and primitive artworks depicting the famous trio. For €2.50 you can climb up to the terrace for a panoramic view of the Camargue (hours vary depending on the season). | Stes-Maries-de-la-Mer | www.sanctuaire-des-saintesmaries.fr.
Where to Stay
Cacharel Hôtel.
$$ | B&B/INN | A haven for nature lovers, this quiet, laid-back retreat is nestled in the middle of 170 acres of private marshland. The Wild West-like ranch setting is enhanced by simple whitewashed buildings with equally simple guest rooms; they’re furnished with terra-cotta tiles, jute rugs, and white cotton throws, and large picture windows gaze out over hauntingly beautiful stretches of rose-color reeds. High-tech has found its way here, too, as each room has a TV and Wi-Fi. The cavernous dining hall with Provençal chairs and an enormous hand-carved fireplace is a gathering place for sharing stories, local wine, and a hearty plate of selected meats, fresh tomatoes, and regional goat cheese. Pros: screens on windows to keep out mosquitoes; a real taste of the Camargue, with silent nights, wind blowing through long grass, animals wandering outside; perfect for those who want to de-urbanize. Cons: rooms are very sparse, almost monastic; not much to do in the way of socializing. | Rooms from: €144 | Rte. de Cacharel, 4 km (2½ miles) north of town on D85 | 04–90–97–95–44 | www.hotel-cacharel.com | 16 rooms | No meals.
Mas de la Fouque.
$$$$ | HOTEL | With stylish rooms and luxurious balconies that look out over a beautiful lagoon, this upscale converted farmhouse, just 2 km (1 mile) from deserted beaches, is a perfect escape from the rigors of horseback riding and bird-watching. Outside are acres of sculpted land, inside is comfort personified: cool elegance, plush carpets, large baths, and prompt service. Every Saturday night Gypsy musicians play flamenco in the lovely bar area. Sprawl out in front of the large stone fireplace and drink in the splendid views over the Camargue. The food is certainly no slouch either: dive into a mean leg of roasted lamb or savor the tender catch of the day after a refreshing dip in the large heated pool. And all the while, you can feel consciously green: by the end of 2015, the Mas was fully equipped with state-of-the-art solar panels and geothermal power. Pros: look for specials that include breakfast; in the heart of nature. Cons: that means mosquitoes. | Rooms from: €320 | Rte. du Petit Rhone | 04–90–97–81–02 | www.masdelafouque.com | Closed 2 wks in Jan. | 26 rooms | No meals.