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Fontvieille | Les Baux-de-Provence | St-Rémy-de-Provence
Whether approaching from the damp lowlands of Arles and the Camargue or the pebbled vineyards around Avignon, the countryside changes dramatically as you climb into the arid heights of the low mountain range called the Alpilles (pronounced “ahl- pee-yuh”). A rough-hewn, rocky landscape rises into nearly barren limestone hills, the fields silvered with ranks of twisted olive trees and alleys of gnarled amandiers (almond trees). It’s the heart of Provence, appealing not only for the antiquities in St-Rémy and the feudal ruins in Les Baux, but also for its mellow pace when the day’s touring is done.
Fontvieille
19 km (12 miles) northeast of Arles; 20 km (12½ miles) southeast of Tarascon.
The village of Fontvieille (pronounced “fohn- vyay-uh”), set among the limestone hills, is best known as the home of 19th-century writer Alphonse Daudet.
Getting Here and Around
The nearest train station is in Arles, and from here Cartreize bus line runs several buses a day to Fontvieille (No. 29). The direct trip takes about 30 minutes and costs €1.50 each way. By car, take the A54 to RN113, then RN568, direction Fontvieille.
Exploring
Château de Montauban.
Summering in the Château de Montauban brought French journalist and author Alphonse Daudet a peace he missed in literary Paris. Daudet frequently climbed the windswept, pine-studded hilltop to the rustic old windmill that ground the local grain from 1814 to 1915—the inspiration for his famous folkloric short stories Lettres de mon moulin. The windmill is now closed to the public, but the graceful chateau houses a museum devoted to Daudet’s writings, and you can freely stroll the grounds to enjoy the peace and sweeping views of the Rhône valley and the Alpilles from the windmill that so inspired him. | Ch. Montauban | www.visitprovence.com | €2.50 | Apr.–Oct., Tues.–Sat. 9:30–6.
Les Baux-de-Provence
9 km (5½ miles) east of Fontvieille; 19 km (12 miles) northeast of Arles.
When you first search the craggy hilltops for signs of Les Baux-de-Provence (pronounced “boh”), you may not quite be able to distinguish between bedrock and building, so naturally does the ragged skyline of towers and crenellation blend into the sawtooth jags of stone.
It was from this intimidating vantage point that the lords of Baux ruled throughout the 11th and 12th centuries over one of the largest fiefdoms in the south, commanding some 80 towns and villages. Their virtually unchallenged power led to the flourishing of a rich medieval culture: courtly love, troubadour songs, and knightly gallantry; but by the 13th century the lords of Baux had fallen from power, their stronghold destroyed.
Today Les Baux offers two faces to the world: the ghostly ruins of its fortress, once referred to as the ville morte (dead town), and its beautifully preserved Renaissance village. As dramatic in its perched isolation as Mont-St-Michel, in Brittany, and St-Paul-de-Vence, this tiny château-village ranks as one of the most visited tourist sites in France, yet has somehow escaped the usual tourist-trap tawdriness. Lovely 16th-century stone houses, even their window frames still intact, shelter elegant shops, cafés, and galleries that line its car-free main street, overwhelmed by day with the smell of lavender-scented souvenirs. But don’t deprive yourself for fear of crowds: stay late in the day, after the tour buses leave; spend the night in one of its modest hotels (or at one of its two splendid domaine hotels); or come off-season, and you can experience its spectacular character—a tour-de-force blend of medieval color and astonishing natural beauty.
Getting Here and Around
The easiest way to get to Les Baux is by car. Take the A7 until you reach exit 25, then the D99 between Tarascon and Cavaillon. Les Baux is 8 km (5 miles) south of St-Rémy by the D5 and the D27. Otherwise, Cartreize runs a bus between Arles and Les Baux (summer only, €2.30). Local trains stop at Tarascon; from here in summer you can take a Cartrieze bus to St-Rémy and Les Baux (20 minutes, €1).
Visitor Information
Les Baux-de-Provence Tourist Office. | Maison du Roy, Rue Porte Mage | 04–90–54–34–39 | www.lesbauxdeprovence.com.
Exploring
Carrières de Lumières.
This vast old bauxite quarry has 66-foot-high stone walls that make a dramatic setting for a multimedia show in which thousands of images are projected onto the walls. Exhibitions change periodically, but recent showings have showcased the life and work of Monet, Renoir, and the “Renaissance Giants”: Leonardo, Michelangelo, and Raphael. | Petite rte. de Mailliane, D27 | 04–90–54–47–37 | www.carrieres-lumieres.com | €10.50; €17.50 combined ticket with Château des Baux | Apr.–Sept., daily 9:30–7:30; Mar. and Oct.–Dec., daily 10–6.
Château des Baux.
High above the Val d’Enfer, the 17-acre clifftop sprawl of ruins is contained under the Château des Baux umbrella. At the entrance, the Tour du Brau contains the Musée d’Histoire des Baux, a small collection of relics and models that shelters a permanent music-and-slide show called Van Gogh, Gauguin, Cézanne au Pays de l’Olivier, featuring artworks depicting olive orchards in their infinite variety. From April through September there are fascinating medieval exhibitions: people dressed up in authentic costumes, displays of medieval crafts, and even a few jousting tournaments with handsome knights carrying fluttering silk tokens of their beloved ladies. Fire the catapult or try the crossbow: it’s up to medieval you. The exit gives access to the wide and varied grounds, where the tiny Chapelle St-Blaise and towers mingle with skeletal ruins. | Rue du Trencat | 04–90–54–55–56 | www.chateau-baux-provence.com | €11; €17.50 combined ticket with Carrières de Lumières | Mar. and Oct., daily 9:30–6:30; Apr.–June and Sept. daily 9–7:15; July and Aug., daily 9–8:15; Nov.–Feb., daily 10–5.
Hôtel de Manville.
Vestiges of the Renaissance remain in Les Baux, including the pretty Hôtel de Manville, built at the end of the 16th century by a wealthy Protestant family. Step into its inner court to admire the mullioned windows, Renaissance-style stained glass, and vaulted arcades. Today it serves as the mairie (town hall). Up and across the street, the striking remains of the 16th-century Protestant temple still bear a quote from Jean Calvin: “post tenebras lux” (after the shadows, light). | Grand rue Frédéric Mistral.
Musée Yves-Brayer (Yves Brayer Museum).
In the Hôtel des Porcelet, which dates to the 16th century, the Musée Yves-Brayer shelters this local 20th-century artist’s works. Figurative and accessible to the point of näiveté, his paintings highlight Italy, Spain, even Asia, but demonstrate most of all his love of Provence. Brayer’s grave lies in the château cemetery. The house at No. 4 on Place de l’Eglise is also decorated with frescoes by the artist. | Pl. François Hérain | 04–90–54–34–39 | www.yvesbrayer.com | €5 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–12:30 and 2–6:30; Mar. and Oct.–Dec., Wed.–Mon. 10–12:30 and 2–5:30.
Where to Eat and Stay
Le Café des Baux.
$$ | MODERN FRENCH | For good-value gourmet cuisine, this intimate space in the heart of Les Baux, in view of the château walls, is your place. Well-presented and inventive dishes such as foie gras and sweet onion confit, apple-glazed lamb with crisped potato gratin and chanterelles, and salmon tartare with mango and green apple compare with those of pricier eateries. Don’t miss the desserts: they’re the chef’s specialty. | Average main: €23 | Rue du Trencat | 04–90–54–52–69 | www.cafedesbaux.com | Closed Nov.–Mar. | Reservations essential.
Baumanière Les Baux de Provence.
$$$ | HOTEL | Spread over five historic buildings just outside the village of Les Baux, guest rooms at this fabled hotel are the last word in Provençal chic: breezy, private, and beautifully furnished with antiques yet done with a contemporary flair. Elizabeth Taylor, Hugh Grant, Johnny Depp, and thousands of others have headed to this oasis—sheltered by rocky cliffs and set amid formal landscaped terraces and gardens—for some quintessential luxe-Provençal pampering. At the hotel’s two Michelin star Oustau restaurant, chef Jean-André Charial, grandson of the founder, continues to attract culinary pilgrims who revel in his pure yet subtle menu—start with a blue lobster with black truffle gnocci (€68), followed by a crisp suckling pig flavored with star anise (€75). Detox the following day with a massage at the spa, by hitting balls on the court, or enjoying a round of golf and you’ll be ready for the next spectacular meal. Pros: two of the great restaurants of Provence; full-service spa and three pools. Cons: get ready for some snob action; service hit-or-miss. | Rooms from: €200 | Val d’Enfer | 04–90–54–33–07 | www.oustaudebaumaniere.com | Hotel and restaurant closed Jan. and Feb.; restaurant closed Wed. and Thurs. in Mar., and Oct.–mid-Dec. | 56 rooms, 16 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Domaine de Manville.
$$$$ | HOTEL | With so much to recommend it—lovely decor, an idyllic setting, impeccable service, a spa, a golf course—the new Domaine de Manville is poised to outdo every luxury retreat in this exquisite corner of Provence. Set among majestic old plane trees on 100 acres of manicured gardens and olive groves, the hotel’s two beautifully restored 18th-century buildings offer sumptuous rooms stylishly outfitted in contemporary haute Provencal. Just as well suited for a romantic retreat as a family getaway, many of the hotel’s well-equipped suites are like small apartments unto themselves: the duplex family suites include bathrooms on each floor and most rooms have either a private terrace or balcony. As a bonus, magnificent views are to be had from every angle of the property, including the pool and 18-hole golf course. The property also offers nine ultracontemporary, full-service villas—large enough for eight—with their own private pool and golf carts to tool around the property. No need to step foot off the premises, as the gastronomic restaurant, well-priced bistro, garden bar, and lovely glassed in winter garden (for breakfast or teatime), answer every culinary desire and golfers will love the boutique, with everything you could possibly need for a day on the green. Pros: full-service spa; parking included; gastronomic restaurant, bistro; well-equipped golf center and boutique. Cons: expensive; not lacking in snob appeal. | Rooms from: €350 | St-Rémy-de-Provence | 04–90–54–40–20 | www.domainedemanville.fr | 10 rooms, 19 suites | No meals.
La Benvengudo.
$$$$ | HOTEL | With manicured grounds shaded by tall pines, this graceful shuttered mas feels centuries old but was built to look that way some 30 years ago. Its heavy old beams, stone fireplace, and terra-cotta tiles enhance the homey, old-fashioned interior. Guest rooms are simple and elegant, with homey touches (throws on the settees, comfy cushions on the bed, large bathrooms), and views out over green lawns. The resident dogs greet you just before the friendly owners do. Dinner (prix-fixe Provençal-Mediterranean menu is €57) is served by the olive-shaded pool, or you can have a drink on the stone-tabled terrace. Pros: quiet and secluded; affordable; friendly service. | Rooms from: €250 | Vallon de l’Arcoule | 04–90–54–32–54 | www.benvengudo.com | Closed Nov.–Mar. | 25 rooms, 3 apartments | No meals.
La Reine Jeanne.
$ | B&B/INN | Churchill and Jacques Brel, Sartre and de Beauvoir (who had separate rooms but a shared balcony) were all happy guests at this modest but majestically placed inn, nicely situated to provide rugged views of the château up the street. The inn is right at the entrance to the village and offers smallish, simple rooms that were renovated in 2013. Good home-style cooking (try l’aïoli—a garlic mayonnaise fish dish) and a fine plat du jour are served in the restaurant, which offers views from both the panoramic dining room and a pretty terrace; it’s one of the most memorable settings for a meal in Les Baux. Pros: views are lovely; a family room sleeps four chambre familiale sleeps four. Cons: some rooms are tiny; only two rooms have (small) balconies. | Rooms from: €60 | Grande Rue | 04–90–54–32–06 | www.la-reinejeanne.com | No credit cards | Closed Jan. | 7 rooms, 1 apartment | No meals.
Le Prince Noir.
$$ | B&B/INN | Each of the three rooms of this unique bed-and-breakfast is carved right out of the stone face but the semi-troglodyte effect is softened by jute carpets, warm woods, and unbeatable views over the Val d’Enfer. It is the highest house in the city, nestled in the heart of the château. The owner’s warm welcome leaves you feeling right at home, and it is a truly remarkable experience to wake up in the morning and see the sun rise over the valley below. Book well in advance for this unforgettable place. Pros: stunning vistas from each window; unbeatable service. Cons: rooms are cold in the winter; few amenities. | Rooms from: €110 | Rue de Lorme, Cité Haute | 04–90–54–39–57 | www.leprincenoir.com | Closed mid-Jan.–Feb. | 1 room, 1 suite, 1 studio | Breakfast.
St-Rémy-de-Provence
11 km (7 miles) northeast of Les Baux; 25 km (15½ miles) northeast of Arles; 24 km (15 miles) south of Avignon.
There are other towns as pretty as St-Rémy-de-Provence, and others in more dramatic or more picturesque settings. Ruins can be found throughout the south, and so can authentic village life. Yet something felicitous has happened in this market town in the heart of the Alpilles—a steady infusion of style, of art, of imagination—all brought by people with a respect for local traditions and a love of Provençal ways. Here, more than anywhere, you can meditate quietly on antiquity, browse aromatic markets with basket in hand, peer down the very row of plane trees you remember from a Van Gogh, and also enjoy urbane galleries, cosmopolitan shops, and specialty food boutiques. An abundance of chic choices in restaurants, mas, and even châteaux awaits you; the almond and olive groves conceal dozens of stone-and-terra-cotta gîtes, many with pools. In short, St-Rémy has been gentrified through and through, and is now a sort of arid, southern Martha’s Vineyard or, perhaps, “the Hamptons of Provence.”
St-Rémy has always attracted the right sort of people. First established by an indigenous Celtic-Ligurian people who worshipped the god Glan, the village Glanum was adopted by the Greeks of Marseille in the 2nd and 3rd centuries BC, who brought in sophisticated building techniques. Rome moved in to help ward off Hannibal, and by the 1st century BC Caesar had taken full control. The Romans eventually fell, but the town that grew up next to their ruins came to be an important market town, and wealthy families built fine hôtels (mansions) in its center—among them the family De Sade (whose distant black-sheep relation held forth in the Lubéron at Lacoste). Another famous native son, the eccentric doctor, scholar, and astrologer Michel Nostradamus (1503–66), is credited by some as having predicted much of the modern age.
Perhaps the best known of St-Rémy’s visitors was the ill-fated Vincent van Gogh. Shipped unceremoniously out of Arles at the height of his madness (and creativity), he had himself committed to the asylum St-Paul-de-Mausolé and wandered through the ruins of Glanum during the last year of his life.
Getting Here and Around
Like Les Baux-de-Provence, the easiest way to get to St-Rémy is by car. Take the A7 until you reach exit 25, then the D99 between Tarascon and Cavaillon, direction St-Rémy on the D5. Otherwise, in summer Cartreize runs an Arles–St-Rémy–Les Baux bus service (Monday–Saturday, €2.30). Local trains stop at nearby Tarascon, and from here you can take a Cartrieze bus to St-Rémy (20 minutes, €1).
Visitor Information
St-Rémy Tourist Office. | Pl. Jean-Jaurès | 04–90–92–05–22 | www.saintremy-de-provence.com.
Exploring
Collégiale St-Martin.
St-Rémy is wrapped by a lively commercial boulevard, lined with shops and cafés and anchored by its 19th-century church Collégiale St-Martin. Step inside—if the main door is locked, the side door is always open—to see the magnificent 5,000-pipe modern organ, one of the loveliest in Europe. Rebuilt to 18th-century specifications in the early 1980s, it has the flexibility to interpret new and old music with pure French panache; you can listen for free on weekends mid-April–September. | Pl. de la République | Free.
Glanum.
A slick visitor center prepares you for entry into the ancient village of Glanum, with scale models of the site in its various heydays. A good map and an English brochure guide you stone by stone through the maze of foundations, walls, towers, and columns that spread across a broad field; helpfully, Greek sites are denoted by numbers, Roman ones by letters. Glanum is across the street from Les Antiques and set back from the D5, and the only parking is in a dusty roadside lot on the D5 south of town (in the direction of Les Baux). Hours vary, so check ahead. | Rte. des Baux de Provence | Off the D5, direction Les Baux | 04–90–92–23–79 | www.glanum.monuments-nationaux.fr | €7.50 | Apr.–Aug., daily 10–6:30; Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–6:30; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 10–5.
Les Antiques.
Two of the most miraculously preserved classical monuments in France are simply called Les Antiques. Dating from 30 BC, the Mausolée (mausoleum), a wedding-cake stack of arches and columns, lacks nothing but a finial on top, and is dedicated to a Julian, probably Caesar Augustus. A few yards away stands another marvel: the Arc Triomphal, dating to AD 20. A lovely spot for a stroll—and within easy walking distance from the city center—the site is open during the day and at night (when they are handsomely illuminated). | Av. Vincent Van Gogh.
Musée Estrine Présence Van Gogh.
The 18th-century Hôtel Estrine now houses this museum and has many reproductions of the artist’s work, along with letters to his brother Theo and exhibitions of contemporary art, much of it inspired by Vincent. It also contains a permanent collection dedicated to the father of Cubism, Albert Gleizes, who lived in St-Rémy for the last 15 years of his life, and hosts temporary exhibitions. | Hôtel Estrine, 8 rue Lucien Estrine | 04–90–92–34–72 | www.musee-estrine.fr | €7 | Apr.–mid-June, Tues.–Sun. 10–noon and 2–6; mid-June–mid-Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–6 (until 9 July and Aug.); Mar. and Nov., Tues.–Sun. 2–6.
St-Paul-de-Mausolé.
This is the isolated asylum where Van Gogh spent the last year of his life (1889–90). Enter quietly: the hospital shelters psychiatric patients to this day, all of them women. You’re free to walk up the beautifully manicured garden path to the church and its jewel-box Romanesque cloister, where the artist found womblike peace. | Ch. Saint-Paul | 04–90–92–77–00 | www.saintpauldemausole.fr | €4.70 | Apr.–Sept., daily 9:30–6:45; Mar. and Oct.–Dec., daily 10:15–5.
Vieille Ville.
Within St-Rémy’s fast-moving traffic loop, a labyrinth of narrow streets leads you away from the action and into the slow-moving inner sanctum of the Vieille Ville. Here trendy, high-end shops mingle pleasantly with local life, and the buildings, if gentrified, blend in unobtrusively. | St-Rémy-de-Provence.
Where to Eat
Bistrot Découverte.
$$$ | BISTRO | Claude and Dana Douard were happy to collaborate with some of the greatest chefs of our time before getting away from the big city lights to open this bistro–wine bar hotspot in the center of St-Rémy. The wine selection is magnificent, and so is the simple food based on top-notch local ingredients. Try the grilled sea bass with chorizo, mashed potatoes, and seasonal vegetables, or the grilled Mont Ventoux spiced pork. | Average main: €25 | 19 bd. Victor Hugo | 04–90–92–34–49 | www.bistrotdecouverte.com | Closed 2 wks in mid-Feb. and last 2 wks in Nov. | Reservations essential.
Comptoir 36.
$ | FRENCH | This stylish modern wine bar set squarely in the center of town is deservedly popular for its delicious tapas and hearty bistro fare. Cheese and charcuterie plates—a house specialty—focus on local, fresh, and artisanal products and are a great accompaniment with the local organic wines. Though a wine bar in spirit, a super friendly atmosphere, straightforward quality dishes, and excellent prices make this a great choice for foodies or families. | Average main: €17 | 36 av. Marechal Juin | 04–90–94–41–12 | www.comptoir36.com | Closed Sun. No lunch Sat.
L’Aile ou la Cuisse.
$$ | BISTRO | A popular place for lunch or dinner, this modern bistro and terrace in the heart of the Vieille Ville draws a lively mix of locals, expats, and tourists looking for authentic market-driven meals. A small but satisfying menu is generously laced with local delicacies—savory ragoût of wild boar, cod with puréed local vegetables and tapenade-laden croutons, and poached-egg cocotte with foie gras cream and tumeric-balsamic toasts. A generous wine list offers plenty of local choices by the glass and the dessert tray in the window—another big draw—features tantalizing concoctions, like a classic chantilly-topped baba al rhum and creamy tarte au citron. Service can be slow but it’s always friendly. | Average main: €23 | 5 rue de la Commune | 04–32–62–00–25 | Closed Sun. No lunch Mon. Nov.–Mar. | Reservations essential.
La Maison Jaune.
$$$$ | FRENCH | This 18th-century retreat with a Michelin star in the Vieille Ville draws crowds of summer people to its pretty roof terrace, with accents of sober stone and lively contemporary furniture both indoors and out. The look reflects the cuisine: with vivid flavors and a cool, contained touch, chef François Perraud prepares fresh Mediterranean sea bream, bouillabaisse, grilled lamb from Provence, and other specialties on his seasonal menus. | Average main: €39 | 15 rue Carnot | 04–90–92–56–14 | www.lamaisonjaune.info | Closed Sun. and Mon. No lunch Mon. Apr.–Sept.; no lunch Tues. Oct.–Mar. | Reservations essential.
Fodor’s Choice | Maison Drouot.
$$ | MODERN FRENCH | Talented chef Julien Drouot serves up neobistro cuisine of rare refinement. Though the menu is spare, each skillfully crafted dish that exits the restaurant’s open kitchen features the freshest farm-to-table products: grilled squid with parsley mousse, smoked garlic cream with a touch of lemon served alongside a tapioca soufflé followed by line-caught fish sautéed in fig-leaf oil, celery hearts, fresh figs and grilled almond mousse. Save room for the house mousse au chocolat served with hazelnut cookies and red-wine poached pear. The shady outdoor terrace is a fine place to while away a delicious couple of hours. | Average main: €18 | 150 rte. de Maillane | 04–90–15–47–42 | maisondrouot.blogspot.fr | Closed Sun. in July and Aug.; closed Mon. and Tues. Sept.–June. No dinner Mon., Tues., Thurs., and weekends in July and Aug. | Reservations essential.
Where to Stay
Château de Roussan.
$$$$ | B&B/INN | Philippe Roussel, a descendant of the 17th-century owners, has filled his château with lovingly polished antique family furniture, buffed the red clay floors to their original shine, and ensured that guest rooms are light and airy and the bathrooms equipped with all the modern trinkets. The restaurant, La Table de Roussan, serves tempting menus and à la carte dishes. Pros: eager-to-please, house-proud staff are happy to recount the hotel’s history; rooms are very quiet. Cons: some rooms are small; elevator doesn’t provide access to all rooms. | Rooms from: €225 | Rte. de Tarascon, D99 | 04–90–90–79–00 | www.chateauderoussan.com | 16 rooms, 4 suites | Breakfast.
Fodor’s Choice | Château des Alpilles.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Reached via a lane of majestic plane trees and set on 8 acres of luxuriant parkland, cypress groves, and gardens, this gracious mas and château date back to medieval times, yet underwent a complete face-lift when present owners bought the estate in the 1970s. Now the Château des Alpilles is one of St-Rémy’s dreamiest spots—and that’s saying a lot in this château-saturated territory. Stay in the castle (rooms are less expensive) or in one of the smaller outbuildings, including a chapel and farmhouse, some large enough for just two people yet all done up tastefully and lovingly with a modern-elegant style. The heated pool is a welcome addition, as is the excellent restaurant with a generous outdoor terrace. Pros: service anticipates your every need; gorgeous Italian designer linens; spectacular grounds. Cons: outside the city center. | Rooms from: €300 | Rte. de Rougadou | 04–90–92–03–33 | www.chateaudesalpilles.com | Closed Jan.–mid-Mar. | 17 rooms, 4 suites | No meals.
Hôtel de l’Image.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Set on a 4-acre park with a view of the Alpilles mountain range, this stylish hotel in the heart of St-Rémy offers both city and countryside in one modern package. Rooms mix Scandinavian simplicity with a Provençal touch—the best with ample terraces overlooking the elegant park or pool. Gourmet dining can be enjoyed outside on the terrace or in the airy dining room, where chef Christophe Chiavola focuses on fresh, local produce in dishes like sea bass with gingered sweet potato puree and candied artichoke, and Aveyron veal with fennel confit. Pros: modern style; fun and dynamic vibe; gorgeous estate; genuine welcome. Cons: public salons seems more photograph galleries than welcoming hotel. | Rooms from: €250 | 36 bd. Victor Hugo | 04–90–92–51–50 | www.hotel-image.fr | Closed Nov.–Mar. | 25 rooms, 7 suites | No meals.
Fodor’s Choice | Hotel de Tourrel.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Rarely does a hotel aspire to, let alone achieve, such an exquisite level of craft and elegance down to the finest details. Set in three 17th-century buildings, with a fabulous rooftop pool and lounge, each of this graceful hotel’s seven bright and spacious suites—No. 7 with its very own secluded rooftop terrace—is a model of contemporary refinement. Soaring ceilings, tasteful artworks, ample marble baths, and gorgeous color palettes that beautifully offset the building’s creamy stone are some of the many qualities that set this sophisticated hotel in the heart of St. Remy apart. Its rigorous aesthetic extends to a gastronomic restaurant and wine bar, featuring a connoisseur’s selection of Provençal, French, and other choice wines, that can also be enjoyed at the bar or on the hotel’s rooftop terrace with beautiful views over St-Rémy. As refined as it is, the owners’ laid-back, welcoming vibe makes visitors totally at ease. Pros: St-Rémy’s most beautiful hotel; gourmet dining and delicious breakfasts; quiet. Cons: not cheap; breakfast not included in price. | Rooms from: €350 | 5 rue Carnot | 04–84–35–07–20 | www.detourrel.com | 7 rooms | No meals.
Nightlife and Performing Arts
Festival A-Part.
For nearly two months of the summer, this Alpilles-wide contemporary arts festival fills nearly 15 venues in several towns, most prominently in St-Rémy. It aims to promote a diversity of disciplines and encourages exchange between artists and audience. | St-Rémy-de-Provence | www.festival-apart.com.
Shopping
Every Wednesday morning St-Rémy hosts one of the most popular and picturesque markets in Provence, during which Place de la République and narrow Vieille Ville streets overflow with herbs and spices, olive oil by the vat, and tapenade by the scoop, as well as fabrics and brocante (collectibles). There’s a smaller version Saturday morning.
Calanquet.
Olive oil producers for five generations, the family-run mill is known in the gastronomic temples of France for producing one of country’s finest oils. You can buy several varieties at the centrally located boutique—along with a tantalizing array of tapenades, sauces, condiments, conserves, and jams—or visit the mill a mile out of town to see firsthand how the oil is made. | 8 rue de la Commune | Apr.–Sept., daily 9:30–1 and 2:30–7; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. 9:30–noon and 2–6:30.
Christallerie Alban Gaillard.
Colorful, whimsical, elegant—these sculptural creations of handblown glass range from exquisite perfume flacons and decorative paperweights to everything you need to impress at the dining table. | 1405 rte. de Maillane | 04–32–60–10–28 | www.cristalleriedart.com.
Joël Durand Chocolatier.
Known for his creamy ganaches, Joël Durand carries a range of gourmet chocolates, nut creams, toffee, and marmalades made in Provence from tree-ripened fruit. | 3 bd. Victor Hugo | 04–90–92–38–25 | www.joeldurand-chocolatier.fr.
Fodor’s Choice | Lilamand Confiseur.
Much more than just a sweets shop, this historical confiseur dates back to 1866 and is in its fifth generation of family ownership on the same St-Rémy premises. Makers of the famous Provençal calisson, an almond-shape marzipan confection, as well as a gorgeous array of candied fruits—including everything from cherries and strawberries to kiwis, fennel, and even whole pumpkins—from a recipe credited to Nostradamus (a native son). There are also fruit syrups, jams, chocolates, and regional honey. A tour of the factory and a stop in the beautiful boutique make for a highly pleasurable hour or two. | 5 av. Albert Schweitzer | 04–90–92–11–08 | www.lilamand.com.