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Just behind Cannes, the hills that block the mountain winds rise, sun-bleached and jungle-green. From the well-groomed Provençal village-cum-bedroom community of Mougins to the hill-city of Grasse, tiled with the greenhouses that feed the region’s perfume factories. Grasse itself supports modern industry and tourist industry with aplomb, offering a dense Italian-style Old Town as well. Beyond, you can head for the hills of the arrière-pays on the Route Napoléon.
Mougins
8 km (5 miles) north of Cannes; 11 km (7 miles) northwest of Antibes; 32 km (20 miles) southwest of Nice.
Passing through Mougins, a popular residential community convenient to Cannes, Nice, and the big Sophia-Antipolis business park, you may perceive little more than sleek, upscale suburban sprawl. But in 1961 Picasso found more to admire and settled into a mas that became a mecca for artists and art lovers—he died there in 1973. Over the decades, others of note also colonized the town, including Cocteau, Man Ray, Léger, and Christian Dior. Despite overbuilding today, Mougins claims extraordinary (yet distant) views over the coast and an Old Town (which is a zone piétonne, or pedestrian zone), on a hilltop above the fray, that has retained a pretty, ultragentrified charm. You’ll see a few off-duty celebrities here and any number of wealthy Parisians who have chosen to buy a Riviera pied-à-terre here. Where they go, noted chefs follow, and Mougins is now a byword in gourmet circles. If you’re not coming here specifically for the food, the town also has plenty of galleries and a handful of expensive cafés with pleasant terraces.
Getting Here and Around
Getting to Mougins by public transportation is time-consuming. Bus Nos. 600 and 630 from Cannes stop in Mougins; from there it’s a 15-minute walk up the hill to the Vieux Village. Alternatively, you could get off at the Val de Mougins stop and wait for No. 650 to take you up to the Vieux Village, but this a weekday service and infrequent at that. If you don’t have time to burn, opt for a taxi (around €35). From Nice, the train to Cannes costs €7 one-way. If you continue on the train to Mouans-Sartoux (60 minutes; €9), you can take Bus No. 26 to the village.
Visitor Information
Mougins Tourist Office. | 39 pl. des Patriotes | 04–93–75–87–67 | www.mougins-tourisme.com.
Exploring
Les Étoiles de Mougins.
This festival transformed the medieval village of Mougins into a vast “open-air theater of gastronomy.” Over three days in September, hundreds of the greatest chefs from around the globe converge to share their passion for cooking with equally enthusiastic audiences. Demonstrations, workshops, and competitions dazzle 25,000 spectators annually. And yes: there are glorious tastings, too. | Vieux Village | 04–93–75–87–67 | www.lesetoilesdemougins.com | €5–€15.
Musée d’Art Classique de Mougins.
Opened in 2011, this hidden gem “highlights the dialogue between the old and the new” with Roman, Greek, and Egyptian art rubbing shoulders with pieces by Picasso, Matisse, Cézanne, Warhol, and Dali. Expect to come across a sarcophagus alongside a Cocteau or a Hirst sculpture next to an ancient bust. Spread over four floors, the museum also houses antique jewelry and the world’s largest armory collection. This is as hip as classic will ever be. Look for special events on their website, like Soirée Beaujolais and late-night openings. | 32 rue Commandeur | 04–93–90–00–91 | www.mouginsmusee.com | €12 | June 21–Sept., daily 10–8; Oct.–June 20, daily 10–6.
Musée de la Photographie.
Near Porte Sarrazine, the Musée de la Photographie permanently displays André Villers’s portraits of his good friends—Picasso, who gave the French photographer his first camera in 1953, and Dalí, among them. Recommended as one of the world’s top 10 free photography museums and attracting 25,000 visitors a year, here the iconic photographer’s avant-garde images spread over three floors in a small village house. Temporary exhibits across the year pull in some big names and there’s a terrific collection of old cameras. | Porte Sarrazine, 67 rue d’Église | 04–93–75–85–67 | Free | June–Aug., daily 10–12:30 and 2–7 (until 11 on Thurs.); Sept.–May, daily 10–12:30 and 2–6.
Notre-Dame-de-Vie.
You can find Picasso’s final home, where he lived for 12 years until 1973, by following the D35 south of Mougins 2 km (1 mile) to the ancient ecclesiastical site of Notre-Dame-de-Vie. From his room, he could see the 13th-century belltower and arcaded chapel, a pretty ensemble once immortalized in a painting by Winston Churchill. The chapel, listed as a historical monument since 1927, is said to date back to 1655. Approached through an allée of ancient cypresses, the former priory house Picasso shared with his wife, Jacqueline, overlooks the broad bowl of the countryside (now blighted with modern construction). Unfortunately, his residence was bought by a private investor and is now closed to the public. | Ch. de la Chapelle | Free | Chapel: July and Aug., daily 10–12:30 and 2–7; May, June, and Sept., weekends 10–12:30 and 2–7; Oct.–Apr., Sun. 10–4 (hrs may vary).
Where to Eat
Paloma.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Young Nicolas Decherchi has already had a stellar career: since starting out at age 16, he’s worked at five Michelin-starred restaurants, and his own gastronomic eatery earned a star in 2014, only one year after opening. Occupying a stone villa, Paloma has been designed to re-create the serenity of a Provençal farmhouse, complete with distant views (in this case, of the sea and the Îles de Lérins off Cannes). The service is flawless, from the valet to the sommelier; and the food combines time-honored southern cooking techniques with a hefty dollop of imagination—an organic poached egg, breaded with cèpes, accompanied by a light chestnut mousseline with Jabugo ham in walnut oil. Portions aren’t copious, so à la carte diners will probably have room for dessert: mango soufflé with a warm, white chocolate center accompanied by a mango sorbet and Opalys foam, perhaps. Set menus are available at both lunch (from €45) and dinner (from €89). | Average main: €60 | 47 av. du Moulin de la Croix | 04–92–28–10–73 | www.restaurant-paloma-mougins.com | Closed Sun. and Mon., 1 wk in Feb., and 1 wk after film festival | Reservations essential.
Where to Stay
Le Manoir de l’Etang.
$$$ | B&B/INN | Owner Camilla Richards spent 20 years in London before converting this Provençal 19th-century manor house in the Bois de Fond Merle into an upscale inn, perched over a lotus pond with a spectacular outdoor pool, and the Cannes–Mougins golf course a few minutes away. Guest rooms are light and airy, accented with some striking nouvelle-mod pieces, while the exquisite Mathieu Soler restaurant encapsulates the savorous characteristics of the region in scrumptious (and very affordable) dishes. But you probably won’t want to stray too far from the poolside lounger. The beaches of Cannes are a 7-km (4½-mile) drive away. For a more Provençal experience, ask for a room in the manor. Pros: friendly welcome from English-speaking owner; breathtaking setting; exceptional restaurant. Cons: stone steps (and no elevator) difficult for those with mobility problems; not all rooms equal. | Rooms from: €170 | 66 allée du Manoir | 04–92–28–36–00 | www.manoir-de-letang.com | Closed last wk in Oct.–mid-Dec. | 19 rooms | Breakfast.
Le Mas Candille.
$$$$ | HOTEL | Nestled in a 10-acre private park, this 19th-century mas has been cleverly transformed into an ultraluxurious Relais & Chateaux hotel with antique wallpapers, “reissued” vintage furniture, and many other high-gloss touches that make the place Elle Decor–worthy. Rooms—all done in cool colors and country chic—are very refined, with a profusion of pillows, heated towels, and all the hidden electrical hookups you could possibly need. The Michelin-star restaurant (closed Monday and Tuesday October–April; no lunch Monday May–September) is the well-ordered domain of Chef David Chauvac. His succulent menus cause quite a stir in gastronomic circles; watch for items like Angus prime rib, tomato and parsley bonbon, sauce soubise in a nest of potatoes (for two; €110). In addition to the main house and the gourmet restaurant, there’s a 19-room bastide, a six-suite villa, and a Shiseido spa. Pros: award-winning service and Shiseido Spa; beautiful views; parking and Wi-Fi included in price. Cons: tricky to find; pay extra to avoid rooms facing parking lot; a poolside cheeseburger will set you back €30. | Rooms from: €470 | Bd. Clément-Rebuffel | 04–92–28–43–43 | www.lemascandille.com | Closed most of Jan. | 38 rooms, 7 suites | Breakfast.
Royal Mougins Golf Resort Hotel.
$$$$ | RESORT | What it lacks in Provençal character, this plush hotel on the green makes up for in modern comforts—each suite, decorated in soothing tones of beige and gray, is an independent apartment with a separate living room and kitchenette, and tea and coffee provided. Most of the suites have vast terraces overlooking the exclusive (and challenging) 18-hole golf course with eight lakes, which has 700 members made up of 34 nationalities and is also open to guests at the hotel at a preferential rate. The spa, in a 19th-century bastide, and the freshwater outdoor pool are a few steps from the green, and the restaurant La Terrasse du 18 serves Provençal cuisine with an ethereal modern touch. Pros: clean and tranquil; higher floors have nicer views; for experienced golfers, the advantage of sleeping across from one of the world’s best golf courses is obvious. Cons: Wi-Fi can be weak; you need a car to get here. | Rooms from: €380 | 424 av. du Roi | 04–92–92–49–69 | www.royalmougins.fr | Closed Jan. and Feb. | 29 suites | Breakfast.
Sports and the Outdoors
Golf Club de Cannes-Mougins.
Founded in 1923 by members such as Aga Khan and Prince Pierre on Monaco, this course is a stunner. The Club has hosted the European Open of Cannes, while the PGA Senior Tour also played here in 2010 and 2011. Nonmembers are welcome (if they have a maximum handicap of 28), and there’s a dress code (no long-sleeve shirts or denim). | 1175 av. du Golf | 04–93–75–79–13 | www.golfcannesmougins.com | €100–€175 | 18 holes, 6906 yards, par 72.
Golfing in the French Riviera
Golf is the most-played individual sport by the French, although, according to the Fédération Française de Golf, only 0.61% of the population practices, not quite on par with the United Kingdom (1.9%), Sweden (5.8%), or the United States (9.5%). France will host the 2018 Ryder Cup at Le Golf National on the outskirts of Versailles, making it the second time in the tournament’s history that it will take place on the continent.
Grand Duke Michael of Russia founded the Riviera’s first golf course—the Old Course in Cannes-Mandelieu—in 1891. This venerated institution now hosts more than 40 competitions a year and, according to Riviera Golfer’s Nick Kent, some 60% of the total rounds are played by English-speakers. Today there are 22 regional golf courses, from Monaco to St-Tropez, and two expat clubs—the Riviera Expatriates Golf Society (REGS) and Landlubbers Golf Club. In September 2013, Cannes Golf Week was introduced and is now a biannual event.
Grasse
10 km (6 miles) northwest of Mougins; 17 km (11 miles) northwest of Cannes; 22 km (14 miles) northwest of Antibes; 42 km (26 miles) southwest of Nice.
Coco Chanel may have first set up shop in Cannes, but when she wanted to create her classic “No. 5” fragrance she headed to Grasse, the perfume capital of the world, with its mild microclimate, which nurtures nearly year-round shows of tropical-hue flowers: orange blossoms, pittosporum, roses, lavender, jasmine, and mimosa. In the past, Grasse’s legendary perfume-makers laid blossoms facedown in a lard-smeared tray, then soaked the essence away in alcohol; nowadays the scents are condensed in vast copper stills. Only the essential oils are kept, and the water thrown away—except rosewater and orangewater, which find their way into delicately perfumed pastries. In Paris and on the outskirts of Grasse, these scents are blended by a professional nez, or “nose,” who must distinguish some 500 distinct scents and may be able to identify 3,000. The products carry the household names of couturiers like Chanel and Dior, and perfume houses like Guerlain. The laboratories where these great blends are produced are off-limits to visitors, but to accommodate the crowds of inquisitive scent-seekers, Molinard, Fragonard, and Galimard each set up factories that create simple blends and demonstrate some of the industry’s production techniques. Factory tours are free, and you pass through a boutique of house perfumes on the way out and—well, you get the idea. If you’re looking for a more “scent-sational” experience, create your own perfume at Galimard et al. (and order refills online once back home), and be treated to VIP perks, like a glass of Champagne at the end of a workshop. The annual Jasmine Festival takes place over three days at the end of July with traditional floats and puppet shows.
Getting Here
The train from Nice takes just over an hour (€10.10), but it’s only 25 minutes from Cannes (€4.40). Alternatively, Bus No. 500 from Nice has daily service to Grasse, and Bus No. 610 comes from Cannes; both cost €1.50. Once here, you can get around aboard Le Petit Train de Grasse for a 35-minute circuit of the town, including Place aux Aires, Vieille Ville, and the Cathedral. It departs daily 11–6 from the Cours Honoré Cresp April–October (and by reservation the rest of the year).
Visitor Information
Grasse Tourist Office. | Pl. de la Buanderie | 04–93–36–66–66 | www.grasse.fr.
Exploring
Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy.
On a clifftop overlook at the Old Town’s edge, the Romanesque Cathédrale Notre-Dame-du-Puy contains no fewer than three paintings by Rubens, a triptych by the famed 15th-century Provençal painter Louis Bréa, and Lavement des Pieds (The Washing of the Feet) by the young Fragonard. | Pl. du Petit Puy | Free | Mon. 9–noon and 2–6, Tues.–Sat. 10–noon and 1–6.
Fragonard.
Built in 1782, this perfume factory is open to the public daily for guided tours, and has the best boutique: look for the brioche-scented candle—your home will have the wonderful scent of a French boulangerie. Sign up for a Do-it-Yourself Perfume (DIYP) workshop for a more specialized memento of your visit. | 20 bd. Fragonard | 04–93–36–44–65 | www.fragonard.com | Free | Mid-Dec.–mid-Nov., daily 9–6; mid-Nov.–mid-Dec., daily 9–12:30 and 2–6.
Galimard.
Tracing its pedigree back to 1747, Galimard has a factory that is open to visitors 365 days a year. For €45 you can create and name your own perfume in a two-hour workshop. They’re held Monday–Saturday at 10, 2, and 4 in Galimard’s Studio des Fragrances, around the corner at 5 route de Pegomas; for those with more time, try the Haute Couture workshops with their decadent Champagne break. | 73 rte. de Cannes | 04–93–09–20–00 | www.galimard.com | Free | Apr.–Oct., daily 9–6:30; Nov.–Mar., daily 9–noon and 2–6.
Molinard.
Established in 1849, Molinard offers an extensive tour that includes visits to the Soap Factory, the Distillery (witness “the nose” at work concocting new fragrances), and the Cream Room, where the packaging team hand-labels each bottle or pump. For €30—and without a reservation—you can create your perfume in a few basic steps (30 minutes). | 60 bd. Victor Hugo | 04–92–42–33–28 | www.molinard.com | Free | Early Jan.–Christmas, daily 9:30–6:30.
Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence (Museum of the Art and History of Provence).
Just down from the Fragonard perfumery, the Musée d’Art et d’Histoire de Provence has a large collection of faïence from the region, including works from the famous pottery towns of Moustiers, Biot, and Vallauris. | 2 rue Mirabeau | 04–93–36–80–20 | www.museesdegrasse.com | Free | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–7; Oct.–early Nov. and Dec.–Mar., Wed.–Sun. 10:30–5:30.
Musée International de la Parfumerie (International Museum of Perfume).
This is one of the more sleekly spectacular museums along the coast. Housed in a soaring structure of steel, glass, and teak, the museum traces the 3,000-year history of perfume making; highlights include a fascinating collection of 4,000 antique perfume bottles. In the rooftop greenhouse you can breathe in the heady smells of different herbs and flowers, while the expert and amusing guide crushes delicate petals under your nose to better release the scents. | 2 bd. du Jeu de Ballon | 04–97–05–58–00 | www.museesdegrasse.com | €4, temporary expositions €6 | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–7; Oct.–early Nov. and Dec.–Mar., Wed.–Mon. 10:30–5:30.
Place aux Aires.
Below the central cluster of museums and perfumeries, the picturesque Place aux Aires is lined with 17th- and 18th-century houses and their arcades. Every Saturday morning there’s a small market selling produce and spices (the bigger market happens Wednesday 8–1, at Place du Cours). | Grasse.
Vieille Ville (Old Town).
Go down the steps to Rue Mirabeau and lose yourself in the dense labyrinth of the Vieille Ville, where steep, narrow streets are thrown into shadow by shuttered houses five and six stories tall. The studio of native Grassois and perfume creator extraordinaire Didier Galgeweski (12 rue de l’Oratoire) is steps from the International Perfumery Museum. | Grasse.
Villa Musée Fragonard.
This museum headlines the work of Grasse’s own Jean-Honoré Fragonard (1732–1806), one of the great French “chocolate-box” artists of his day (these artists were known for their maudlin style that stemmed from the type of artwork found on boxes of chocolate). The lovely villa contains a collection of Fragonard’s drawings, engravings, and paintings; also on display are works by his son Alexandre-Evariste and his grandson, Théophile. | 23 bd. Fragonard | 04–93–36–93–10 | www.fragonard.com/parfums_grasse/GB/fragonard/grasse/fragonard_costa_museum.cfm | Free | Apr.–Sept., daily 10–7; Oct.–early Nov. and Dec.–Mar., Wed.–Sun. 10:30–5:30.
Where to Eat and Stay
Lou Candeloun.
$$$ | FRENCH | Nestled in a small quiet street near Place des Aires, Lou Candeloun (“The Chandelier”) is so intimate that you might feel as though you’re eating at a friend’s. And that’s a good thing. At 34, chef Alexis Mayroux has spent more than half his life in a kitchen, creating simple dishes with incomparable market freshness. The cuisine du marché changes every three weeks, while other options include chicken with fromage frais, and langoustines in shellfish juice with choy cabbage fondue or roasted figs with lavender honey, gingerbread toast, and ginger ice cream. In the summer, there are a couple of tables outside in the lane. | Average main: €30 | 5 rue des Fabreries | 04–93–60–04–49 | www.loucandeloun.eresto.net | Closed Sun. and Mon. | Reservations essential.
La Bastide Saint-Antoine.
$$$$ | HOTEL | This ocher mansion, once the home of an industrialist who hosted the Kennedys and the Rolling Stones, is now the domain of celebrated chef Jacques Chibois, who welcomes you with old stone walls, shaded walkways, an enormous pool, and guest rooms that glossily mix Louis Seize, Provençal, and high-tech delights. The restaurant here is excellent but expensive (try the extraordinary symphony of foie gras terrine with truffles sweetened by celery in Port jelly, or the lobster with a black-olive fondue and beet juice). Lunch is a relative bargain at €66 (not available Sunday). Reserve well in advance. Pros: a bastion of culinary excellence; perks like iPod docks, 1,000 TV channels, and coffee/organic tea in each room; seasonal deals on Bastide’s website. Cons: rooms are a touch too Provençal for some tastes; breakfast (€31) not included; late check-in from 4 pm. | Rooms from: €350 | 48 av. Henri-Dunant | 04–93–70–94–94 | www.jacques-chibois.com | 9 rooms, 7 suites | No meals.
Route Napoléon
One of the most famous and panoramic roads in France is the Route Napoléon, taken by Napoléon Bonaparte in 1815 after his escape from imprisonment on the Mediterranean island of Elba. Napoléon landed at Golfe-Juan, near Cannes, on March 1 and forged northwest to Grasse, then through dramatic, hilly countryside to Castellane, Digne, and Sisteron. Commemorative plaques bearing the imperial eagle stud the route, inspired by Napoléon’s remark, “The eagle will fly from steeple to steeple until it reaches the towers of Notre-Dame.” Nowadays there are some lavender-honey stands and souvenir shacks, but they are few and far between. It’s the panoramic views as the road winds its way up into the Alps that make this a route worth taking. Roads are curvy but well maintained. The whole 314-km (195-mile) route from Golfe-Juan to Grenoble takes about 14 hours, but you can just do part of it and still take in the lovely scenery. In fact, if you like scenic drives, follow the Route Napoléon to Trigance and on to the spectacular Gorges du Verdon, also called the Grand Canyon du Verdon. You can then continue on to the heart of the Var and in a mere 30 minutes be swallowed up in the beauty of the spectacular Gorges Country. See www.route-napoleon.com.
Valbonne
18 km (11 miles) north of Cannes; 14 km (9 miles) northwest of Antibes.
This fiercely Provençal hill town has been adopted by the British and a smorgasbord of other nationalities, who work either at the nearby technology park Sophia-Antipolis (France’s Silicon Valley) or commute to, say, London or Geneva during the workweek, thanks to low-cost travel from easyJet. Valbonne exudes a peculiar kind of mixed-country charm, with a plethora of tasteful restorations and restaurants (including Moroccan, Indian, and sushi). Its principal cachet is the novel layout of the Old Town, designed in a grid system in the 16th century by the monks of Lérins. A checkerboard of ruler-straight ruelles (little streets) lies within a sturdy rampart of wraparound houses; at the center, a grand place is framed by Renaissance arcades and shady elms, perfect for people-watching at one of the cafés. At the top of the village, follow your nose to Patisserie Lenoir and indulge in some baked chocolatey goodness; at the bottom of the village is the 13th-century Abbaye de Valbonne. Most weekends the village hosts a festival of some type (the first Sunday of the month there’s an antiques fair), and despite the not-completely-French environment, there’s something quite captivating about this village.
You’ll find upgraded versions of typical gifts to take home at the Friday Provençal market, one of the best in the region, as is the Maison de la Presse Libris newsstand, beside the pharmacy, with its outstanding selection of international press. Memorie de Famille (E18 rue Alexis Julien) have fabulous and affordable housewares that they decoratively wrap for free, while the English Reading Centre, steps from here, is run by an American and could give Amazon a run for its money.
A few kilometers west of Valbonne is “La Pitchoune,” Julia Child’s former Provençal home in Plascassier. For more than 20 years American Kathie Alex has run “Cooking with Friends in France” using Julia’s kitchen very much as it was.
Getting Here and Around
There are two ways to get to Valbonne: by car (all the parking is free!) or by bus. The Nice–Sophia Antipolis Bus No. 230 (75 minutes, €1.50), operates weekdays beginning at 6:30 am with seven buses that go on to Valbonne (although, oddly, a few less for the return), and you can pick it up on the Promenade des Anglais in Nice, near the Negresco hotel. In Cannes, in front of the train station, the daily No. 630 takes about 40 minutes (€1.50) but check that the bus continues to Valbonne after Sophia-Antipolis. And from the bus station in Antibes, Bus No. 10 accesses Valbonne via Biot (35 minutes, €1.50) and runs seven days a week.
Where to Eat
Fodor’s Choice | Daniel Desavie.
$$$$ | FRENCH | Judging by the crowd of regulars flocking to his restaurant, 7 km (4½ miles) from Mougins village, Daniel Desavie has built quite a reputation. That’s hardly surprising given that he was trained for 23 years by Roger Vergé at the famous Moulins de Mougins. His engaging wife, Chantal, who speaks English, makes diners feel very welcome, as does the lovely French Provençal interior. When you’re ready to order from the very refined menu, try the lobster with tabbouleh and orange-mango vinaigrette before digging into the braised lamb shoulder fricassee. If you want to add wine, there’s a sommelier on hand to help you turn your classic meal into a masterful one. There are fixe-prix menus at lunch (€20–€26) and dinner (€41–€59) | Average main: €37 | 1360 rte. d’Antibes | From Valbonne, follow Rte. de Cannes then take left at Forum roundabout along the D103 | 04–93–12–29–68 | www.restaurantdanieldesavie.fr | Closed Sun. and Mon.