Superfood: Beetroot

The first record of a soup made with beetroot comes from the Roman gourmet Apicius, who, in his cookbook De re coquinaria, attributes this recipe to Marcus Terentius Varro (116–27 BC):

‘Varro beets, that is, black ones of which the roots must be cleaned well, cook them with mead and a little salt and oil; boil them down in this liquor so that the roots are saturated thereby; the liquid itself is good drinking. It is also nice to cook a chicken in with them.’

This recipe is the precursor of the most famous beetroot soup of today, Russian borscht. Or is it Ukranian borsch? Each country fiercely lays claim to this soup, which has become symbolic of family and country, as recipes are passed down through the generations, surviving historical and political upheavals. It is generally accepted now that the origins of borscht are in Ukraine, although there are numerous regional variations. More versions of the soup are found throughout Eastern Europe though, from Polish barzszc to Lithuanian barščiai, each using different ingredients and passionately claiming this soup as part of their national cuisine. With the intertwined history of Eastern European countries and the movement of their people there is no certainty as to who borscht really belongs to, but versions are lovingly created in kitchens from Odessa and Warsaw to Brooklyn, USA, with recipes handed down through the centuries, and stories to accompany them.

In 14th century Ukraine the original form of borscht was cooked using the common hogweed (the Slav word for this is borshchevik). In the subsistence-based peasant life hogweed was a common and hardy plant, with leaves being eaten raw and the roots boiled. It was an essential component of Slavic cookery for hundreds of years, a poor man’s meal gleaned from the frozen land. But as time went on it became the dish of all Slavs, rich and poor, with variations denoting status. Meat could be added, either for guests or simply because you could afford it. At some point beetroot replaced this wild ingredient and the famous deep-red soup was born.

There is however another popular story which claims that the first borscht was cooked during the Russo–Turkish wars of the 17th century. In 1637 thousands of Cossacks laid siege to the Turkish-held Azov fortress in Southern Russia. To address the issue of feeding so many men a huge stew was thrown together consisting of anything edible that could be found, and the resulting mix was so popular that the name ‘borshch’ was coined for it.

There is no consistent and accepted recipe for borscht, as each generation passes on its own version, and claims it is the best and only one! The basic ingredient of course is the beetroot, and most recipes include combinations of vegetables such as carrots, onions, red peppers, cabbages, potatoes and tomatoes. Many recipes now use beef stock but originally this would have been a meat-free recipe apart from on special occasions. In Poland two versions are served, a meat-free one for the feast on Christmas Eve, and a meat one for Easter. There are heated debates over how to make the perfect version; some are horrified by the idea of, for example, adding leeks, or vinegar, whilst others insist upon it. The Romanian version adds bors, a fermented wheat bran, whilst the Russian and Polish versions might use kvass, a fermented beet juice.

Whatever the recipe, the soup was traditionally made in huge batches and kept for days, improving each day as the flavours mingled (originally borscht was eaten every day, for breakfast, lunch and dinner!). Borscht for many is synonymous with their culture and feeling of identity, and the familiar rich smell evokes for some the wide open plains and frozen steppes of Eastern Europe, for others the long-gone Soviet Union. For all, though, this amazing and historical soup symbolises home: for those still living in their native lands a warm welcome to strangers, and for exiles a feeling of belonging and identity.

FALAFEL

This quick and easy falafel recipe makes a delicious lunchtime snack served with warm pitta bread and a yoghurt dip.

Chop the onion and garlic. Heat the sesame oil in a pan and sauté the onion until translucent. Add the garlic and cumin and cook for another minute.

In a food processor combine the onion mix with the grated beetroot, chickpeas, coriander leaves, breadcrumbs, tahini paste and egg. Season to taste.

Roll into balls and place on a non-stick baking tray or parchment. Bake for 20–25 minutes until crisp and hot.

To make the yoghurt dip, crush the garlic and add to the yoghurt with the lemon juice and a pinch of salt. Mix thoroughly and refrigerate until needed. Serve the falafel in warmed pitta bread with a mixed salad and the yoghurt dip.

RISOTTO

A classic recipe with a twist. Adding beetroot to risotto provides you with all the benefits of its healthy nutrients, and gives the dish an amazing deep red colour.

Melt the butter in a pan and add the olive oil. Sauté the shallots gently until translucent. Add the garlic and cook for a further minute.

Add the rice and stir for a minute until the grains are fully coated and have absorbed the butter. Now gradually add the stock, a ladleful at a time, waiting until the liquid is absorbed before adding the next ladleful.

Cut the beetroot into pieces and blend until it forms a purée. Add water as needed to achieve the right consistency.

Once all the stock is absorbed, add the white wine, lemon juice, parmesan and thyme, and finally stir in the beetroot purée. Season to taste.

Serve with the ricotta cheese scattered on top and a rocket salad dressed with balsamic vinegar.

BEETROOT,
GOAT’S CHEESE & THYME TART

The sweetness of beetroot is balanced by a tangy goat’s cheese in this stylish tart which makes a great starter or light lunch.

Heat the olive oil and gently cook the onions with most of the thyme until soft and translucent. Season to taste. Reserve the remaining thyme to scatter on top.

Roll out the puff pastry, prick all over with a fork and bake for ten minutes. Gently push the middle down if it has risen in the oven, or you can use ceramic baking beans to prevent it rising.

Spread the onion mixture over the puff pastry base and arrange the slices of beetroot and goat’s cheese on top. Scatter over the remaining thyme leaves.

Bake in the oven for 20 minutes or until the pastry is golden-brown. Serve with the rocket and balsamic vinegar salad.

ALKALINE SOLUTIONS WILL TURN BEETROOT JUICE YELLOW, WHILE ACIDIC SOLUTIONS WILL MAKE IT PINK.

BURGER

The ultimate veggie burger. Lentils are full of nutrients and healthy fibre while the beetroot adds sweetness.

Place the lentils in the stock and simmer until soft. Meanwhile sauté the onion gently in the olive oil until translucent, stirring frequently. Add the chopped garlic and cook for a further minute.

Once the lentils are soft, place in a food processor and blend with the onion mix, grated beetroot, egg, lentils, breadcrumbs, herbs and spices and season to taste.

Shape the mix into burgers on a flour-covered board, and dust the burgers lightly with flour. Place on a greased baking tray. Drizzle the field mushrooms with olive oil and place on a baking tray in the oven at the same time.

Cook for half an hour until the burgers are crispy and hot and the mushrooms soft. Turn the burgers half way through cooking.

Place each burger in a bun, put a mushroom on each and top with Stilton. Serve with little gem lettuce.