LES SAUCES
French sauces date back to the Middle Ages, when sauces were sold by sauciers (sauce cooks) in the streets of Paris. At that time sauces were heavily seasoned with spices and thickened with breadcrumbs or ground almonds. It was not until the seventeenth century that more refined sauces thickened with flour were invented. The great sauces of haute cuisine were not created until the eighteenth or nineteenth century, when Talleyrand claimed: “England has 3 sauces and 360 religions, whereas France has 3 religions and 360 sauces.”
The ingredients used in sauces vary around France. In Normandy sauces are based on butter and cream; cider vinegar often appears in salad dressings. In Provence sauces are based on olive oil, garlic, and herbs. Mustard appears in many sauces in Burgundy. Walnut oil is often used in salad dressings in Dauphiné, Périgord, Poitou, and some parts of central France.
Paris, Ile-de-France
BÉCHAMEL SAUCE
(Sauce béchamel)
This classic white sauce is named after Louis de Béchameil, Marquis de Nointel, a wealthy financier who bought himself the post of Maître d’hôtel to Louis XIV. Originally béchamel sauce was made with stock and enriched with cream, instead of milk, which is used today.
4
tbsp. butter
3
tbsp. flour
2
cups hot milk
½
tsp. salt
pinch of white pepper
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
Melt the butter in a heavy-bottomed pan. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute without browning. Pour in a little hot milk and stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture is free of lumps. Gradually add more milk until all the milk is incorporated and the sauce is very smooth and creamy. Season with salt, pepper, and nutmeg and simmer for 1 or 2 more minutes. Makes about 1 pint.
Paris, Ile-de-France
MORNAY SAUCE
(Sauce Mornay)
This sauce is based on béchamel sauce, with the addition of Gruyere cheese and cream. It is often used for vegetables prepared au gratin. Sometimes the sauce is enriched with 1 or 2 egg yolks instead of cream.
1
recipe béchamel sauce (see page 99)
2
tbsp. light cream
pinch of cayenne pepper
⅓
cup Gruyère cheese, grated
Prepare the béchamel sauce as directed on page 99 and stir in the cream. Season with cayenne pepper. Remove from the heat and stir in the Gruyère cheese. Makes about 1 pint.
Paris, Ile-de-France
MUSHROOM SAUCE
(Sauce duxelles)
Duxelles is a mixture of chopped shallots and mushrooms that is often added to sauces and stuffings. It is generally thought that duxelles was invented by La Varenne, chef to the Marquis d’Uxelles, and author of Le Cuisinier Francois (1651). However, it is sometimes claimed that duxelles comes from the town of Uxel in the Cotes du Nord in Brittany.
2
tbsp. butter
¼
cup finely minced shallots
salt
freshly ground black pepper
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
1
cup béchamel sauce (see page 99)
Heat the butter in a heavy frying pan and cook the shallots over a moderate heat for 5 minutes or until they start to turn golden. Add the mushrooms and cook over a fairly high heat until they are tender and any liquid from the mushrooms has evaporated. Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and nutmeg. Add the hot béchamel sauce and simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. Serve hot. Makes about 2 cups.
Paris, Ile-de-France
ONION SAUCE
(Sauce soubise)
This sauce was invented by the Maréchal de Soubise at his Hôtel de Soubise in Paris. Like so many aristocrats of the seventeenth and eighteenth century, he loved to cook.
3
tbsp. butter
1
pound onions, finely chopped
2
tbsp. flour
1
tbsp. wine vinegar
1½
cups hot broth or water
a grating of nutmeg
salt
white pepper
2
tbsp. light cream
Heat the butter in a heavy-bottomed pan and cook the onions over a moderate heat for 5 minutes, or until they are translucent. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 or 2 minutes without browning. Gradually add the vinegar mixed with the hot stock, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the sauce is thickened. Simmer for 2 or 3 minutes. Stir in the cream and serve hot. Makes about 3 cups.
Provence, Comté de Nice
TOMATO SAUCE
(Sauce tomate)
If fresh plum tomatoes are unavailable, canned plum tomatoes may be used.
3
tbsp. olive oil
3
garlic cloves, finely chopped
1
tbsp. fresh parsley, finely chopped
1
tbsp. fresh basil, chopped
1½
pounds ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
½
bay leaf
pinch of thyme
salt
freshly ground pepper
Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the garlic, parsley, and basil for 1 minute. Add the chopped tomatoes, bay leaf, and thyme, and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Cook, uncovered, over a moderate heat for 15 minutes, or until the sauce starts to thicken, mashing the tomatoes gently with a fork as they cook.
For a smoother sauce, after cooking remove the bay leaf and force through a sieve, or purée in a food processor. Return to the pan and bring to a boil. Simmer for a few minutes or until the sauce is slightly thickened. Makes about 2½ cups.
Provence, Comté de Nice
BASIL SAUCE
(Pistou à l’huile)
Pistou is a garlicky basil sauce related to Italian pesto. Only fresh basil should be used.
¼
pound fresh basil
6
tbsp. olive oil
4
garlic cloves, crushed
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Place the basil, olive oil, and garlic in a blender and mix slowly until the ingredients are chopped. Blend at high speed until the mixture is smooth. Season to taste with salt and black pepper.Makes about ¾ cup.
All France
VINAIGRETTE SAUCE
(Sauce vinaigrette)
Vinaigrette sauce is usually made in the proportions of 1 tablespoon of wine vinegar to 3 tablespoons of oil. The quality of the sauce depends on the quality of the oil and vinegar used. Extra virgin olive oil and pure wine vinegar are best. 1 or 2 teaspoons of fresh herbs such as parsley, chives, basil, mint or oregano may be added for additional flavoring if you like.
2
garlic cloves, crushed
6
tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2
tbsp. wine vinegar
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Combine all the ingredients with seasoning to taste in a small glass jar. Screw the cap on firmly and shake well until the ingredients have blended and the vinaigrette sauce is slightly thickened. Makes ½ cup.
Provence, Comté de Nice
CITRONETTE
(La citronette)
This delicious salad dressing is made with olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, cream, and herbs.
6
tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
juice of 1 small lemon
1
tsp. Dijon mustard
1
tbsp. fresh chives, finely chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2
tbsp. light cream
Combine the olive oil, lemon juice, mustard, chives, and seasoning to taste in a small glass jar. Screw the cap on firmly and shake vigorously until all the ingredients have blended and the sauce is slightly thickened. Pour into a small bowl and stir in the cream. Makes about ⅔ cup.
Alsace, Lorraine
LORRAINE VINAIGRETTE SAUCE
(Verdure Lorraine)
This is a simple vinaigrette sauce enriched with chopped hard-boiled egg and herbs.
6
tbsp. extra virgin olive oil
2
tbsp. wine vinegar
2
garlic cloves
1
tbsp. fresh parsley, finely chopped
1
tbsp. fresh chives, chopped
a few leaves fresh tarragon
1
hard-boiled egg, finely chopped
Make a vinaigrette sauce with the olive oil, vinegar, and garlic and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Add the herbs and chopped hard-boiled egg and mix well. Makes about ¾ cup.
All France
MAYONNAISE
(Mayonnaise)
Mayonnaise was probably invented in 1756 after the siege of Port Mahon in Minorca. There is some controversy over the origins of the word “mayonnaise,” which may be a corruption of moyeunaise, which derives from the old French moyeu (egg yolk). Others believe it stems from magnonaise, a derivation of manier(to stir).
2
egg yolks
about 2
tbsp. wine vinegar or lemon juice
pinch of white pepper
1½
cups sunflowerseed or olive oil, or a combination of both
1
tbsp. boiling water
Place the egg yolks in a mixing bowl with a few drops of vinegar. Add salt and white pepper to taste. Very slowly beat in the oil, drop by drop, with a wire whisk. Beat constantly. When the mixture becomes very thick, thin it with a few drops of vinegar. Once the oil is used up, gradually beat in the boiling water. This will improve the consistency and help to prevent the mayonnaise from separating. Makes about 1½ cups.
Provence, Comté de Nice
AÏOLI
(Aïoli)
Aïoli—often called the “butter”—of Provence, is a garlicky mayonnaise. It is usually served as a dip surrounded by a selection of raw vegetables (crudités), or cooked vegetables such as artichoke hearts, potatoes, haricot or green beans.
8
garlic cloves, crushed
1
egg yolk
salt
cayenne pepper
¾
cup olive oil
1
tbsp. boiling water
Place the garlic cloves, egg yolk, salt, and cayenne pepper to taste in a bowl and beat with a wire whisk until slightly thickened. Very slowly beat in the oil, drop by drop, as for mayonnaise. Once the oil is used up, gradually beat in the boiling water. This will improve the consistency and help to prevent the aoïli from separating. Makes about ¾ cup.
Burgundy
DIJONAISE SAUCE
(Sauce Dijonaise)
Mayonnaise can also be made with hard-boiled egg yolks like this sauce from Dijon. If you like, the hard-boiled egg whites may besieved and added to the sauce, which gives it a nice lightness.
2
hard-boiled egg yolks
2
tsp. Dijon mustard
salt
freshly ground black pepper
½
cup olive or sunflowerseed oil lemon juice to taste
Mash the egg yolks with the mustard in a bowl until they are very smooth and creamy. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Very slowly beat in the oil, drop by drop, with a wire whisk. Beat constantly. When the mixture becomes very thick, thin it with a few drops of lemon juice. Once the oil is used up, correct the seasoning. Makes about ½ cup.
Burgundy
MUSTARD CREAM SAUCE
(Sauce moutarde à la crème)
This sauce makes an especially good salad dressing for celeriac, cabbage, and beets.
3
tbsp. Dijon mustard
6
tbsp. light cream
2
tsp. lemon juice or to taste
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Blend the mustard and cream together in a bowl. Add the lemon juice and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Makes about ½ cup.
All France
CRÈME FRAîCHE
(Crème fraîche)
Crème fraîche is widely used in French cooking, especially in soups and sauces. It has a very high butterfat content (up to 60 percent) which enables it to be boiled down to half of its original volume without any risk of curdling.It also contains lactic acid and other ferments that are added after pasteurization, which gives it its characteristic, slightly sour taste. Creme fraîche can easily be made at home in a similar way to yogurt.
1
cup heavy cream
3
tbsp. whole milk yogurt
Stir the cream and yogurt together in a small saucepan and heat gently to 77° F. Pour into a glass jar and partially cover. Set in a warm place for 6 to 8 hours until the cream is thickened. Stir lightly, cover and refrigerate. Crème fraîche will keep up to 2 weeks in the refrigerator. Makes about 1 cup.