SOUPS

LES SOUPES ET LES POTAGES

Andre Dumas called France a nation soupière. Soup has always had an important place in the French diet. In the past soup was eaten three or even four times a day, especially in the poorer regions of France. Soupe originally meant the slices of bread dipped into the potage or contents of the pot. Even today a soupe, as opposed to a potage, is usually served with croutons or poured over slices of bread. The evening meal or souper—the equivalent of the English “supper”—is derived from “soupe.”

An enormous variety of soups are made in France. Normandy is famous for its creamy vegetable soups. Beer soup is a specialty of Flanders, Alsace, and Lorraine. Onion soups called tourin or ouliatare made all over southwest France. Various garlic soups appear in Languedoc and Provence. In the Languedoc there was once a ceremonie d’aillade where garlic soup, dark with black pepper, was served to young couples on their wedding night. The soupo-pistouof Provence and the soupe des herbes of Corsica are both relatives of the Italian minestrone.

Paris, Ile-de-France

CARROT SOUP

(Potage Crécy)

There is some controversy over the origins of the name “potage Crécy.” Sometimes it is said that it originated in Picardy, at the small village of Crécy-en-Pontheiu, famous for the battle of Crécy (1346). However, it probably originated at Crécy-en-Brie in the Ile-de-France, which has long been famous for its fine carrots.

2	tbsp. butter
2	leeks, thinly sliced (white part only)
1	pound carrots, diced
3	medium potatoes, peeled and diced
5	cups water
½	cup light cream
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Heat the butter in a large pot and cook the leeks over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add the carrots and potatoes and 5 cups of water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes. Force through a sieve, or purée in a blender. Return to the pot and heat thoroughly. Stir in the cream and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve hot. Serves 6.

Picardy, Flanders, Artois

CARROT AND RICE SOUP

(Potage Crécy à la Picarde)

4	tbsp. butter
¾	pound carrots
1	medium onion, chopped
1	small turnip, diced
1	celery stalk, thinly sliced
4	cups water
¼	cup long grain rice
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Heat half of the butter in a large pot and cook the carrots, onion, turnip, and celery over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Raise the heat, and when the soup is boiling, pour in the rice. Cook for 15 to 20 minutes or until the rice is tender but still firm. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the pot and heat thoroughly. Stir in the remaining butter and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve hot. Serves 3 to 4.

Brittany

CAULIFLOWER SOUP

(Potage aux choufleurs)

A specialty of Roscoff.

1	medium cauliflower, broken into florets
½	pound potatoes, peeled and quartered
3	cups broth or water
2	cups milk
3	tbsp. butter
¼	tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Bring the cauliflower and potatoes to boil in the water and milk. Cover, and simmer for 30 minutes or until tender. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the pot. Heat thoroughly. Stir in the butter and season with nutmeg, salt, and black pepper to taste. Serve hot. Serves 4.

Provence, Comté de Nice

ZUCCHINI AND RICE SOUP

(La soupa de courgourda)

This soup may be made with zucchini or pumpkin.

2	tbsp. olive oil
1¼	pounds zucchini
2	medium onions, chopped
2	garlic cloves, finely chopped
5	cups water
1	bay leaf
2	tbsp. fresh parsley, finely chopped
	pinch of thyme
¼	cup long grain rice
1	cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut into slices ½-inch thick. Heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the onions and garlic over a moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the zucchini and stir well. Add the water and herbs and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the pot and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Raise the heat, and when the soup is boiling pour in the rice. Cook for 18 to 20 minutes or until the rice is tender but still firm. Serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4.

Auvergne, Limousin

CREAM OF CHESTNUT SOUP

(Soupe aux marrons)

This soup from the Auvergne is sometimes called cousinat. It is usually served with slices of rye bread and perhaps some grated Cantal cheese on the side.

1	pound chestnuts
2	tbsp. butter
1	large onion, chopped
1	leek, thinly sliced (white part only)
1	celery stalk, thinly sliced
4	cups broth or water
½	cup light cream

With a sharp knife, cut a small cross into the base of the chestnut shells. Cook the chestnuts in plenty of boiling water for 10 minutes. Slip off the shells and remove the brown skins with a sharp knife.

Heat the butter in a large pot and cook the onion, leek, and celery over a gentle heat for 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft but not brown. Add the peeled chestnuts and the broth, and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 45 minutes. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the pot. Heat thoroughly. Stir in the cream and serve hot. Serves 4.

Corsica

CORSICAN HERB SOUP

(Soupe des herbes)

For this soup choose at least 3 or 4 of the following fresh herbs: parsley, mint, sorrel, borage, oregano, marjoram, dandelion, chives, chervil, fennel, basil, and coriander.

¼	pound dried borlotti or cranberry beans
6	cups water
3	tbsp. olive oil
2	medium onions, chopped
1	leek, thinly sliced
3	cloves, finely chopped
3	medium potatoes, peeled and diced
4	canned plum tomatoes, forced through a sieve or puréed in a food processor
1	bay leaf
¼	pound fresh herbs, roughly chopped
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Soak the beans overnight and drain. Place in a saucepan with 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 1½ to 2 hours or until the beans are tender. Drain and discard the cooking liquid.

Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan and cook the onions, leek, garlic, and potatoes over a moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add the puréed tomatoes and cook for 2 more minutes. Add the beans, bay leaf, and 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 40 minutes. Add the fresh herbs and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Simmer for 20 minutes and serve hot. Serves 4.

Provence, Comté de Nice

GARDEN VEGETABLE SOUP

(Soupe d’ourteto)

Ourteto means garden in the Provençal language.

4	tbsp. olive oil
1	medium onion, chopped
2	garlic cloves, finely chpped
3	leeks, thinly sliced
2	celery ribs, thinly sliced
¾	pound spinach, shredded
¼	pound sorrel, shredded
4	cups water
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
4	slices of whole wheat bread
½	cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the onion, garlic, leek, and celery over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add the spinach, sorrel, and water and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Bring to a boil and simmer for 30 minutes. Place one slice of bread in each of the individual serving bowls. Pour over the soup and serve with grated cheese on the side. If you prefer the soup may be strained before serving. Serves 4.

Provence, Comté de Nice

GARLIC SOUP

(Aigo-bouido)

Aigo-bouido literally means “boiled water.” It is one of the oldest traditional soups in Provence, and is probably the easiest to prepare. It consists of garlic cloves, herbs, and olive oil, simmered in water for 15 minutes, then poured over slices of bread. There are more sophisticated versions—some recipes include slices of Gruyère cheese or poached eggs. In Marseilles the soup is usually thickened with egg yolks and flavored with dried orange peel and fennel.

4	cups water
8	garlic cloves, crushed
2	tbsp. olive oil
2	bay leaves
4	sage leaves
	a pinch of thyme
	freshly ground coarse sea salt
	freshly ground black pepper
4	slices of French bread
½	cup Gruyére cheese, grated

Place the garlic cloves, olive oil, bay leaves, sage, thyme, water, and seasoning to taste in a saucepan. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 15 minutes. Remove the bay leaf. Place the slices of bread in individual bowls and sprinkle with cheese. Pour over the hot soup and serve at once. Serves 4.

Normandy

GREEN BEAN SOUP

(Soupe aux haricots verts)

½	pound green beans
2	medium potatoes, peeled and diced a handful of sorrel, shredded
4	cups water
2	tbsp. light cream
2	tbsp. butter
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
4	slices whole wheat bread, cut into croutons and dried in a 375° F. oven

Trim the ends of the green beans and cut into 2-inch lengths. Place in a pot with the potatoes, sorrel, and water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Force through a sieve, or purée in a blender. Return to the pot and stir in the cream. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Heat thoroughly and stir in the butter just before serving. Serve hot with croutons. Serves 4.

Savoie, Dauphiné

GREEN SOUP WITH RICE

(Soupe verte)

Almost any salad green can be used to make this soup: watercress, lamb’s lettuce, purslane, all kinds of lettuce, spinach, or Swiss chard.

2	tbsp. butter
2	leeks, thinly sliced
¼	pound spinach, shredded
	a handful of sorrel, shredded
3 or 4	lettuce leaves, shredded
1	medium potato, peeled and diced
5	cups stock of water
½	cup long grain rice
½	cup light cream
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Heat the butter in a large pot and cook the leeks over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add the spinach, sorrel, lettuce, potato, and stock. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the pot and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Raise the heat, and when the soup is boiling, pour in the rice. Cook for 18 to 20 minutes, or until the rice is tender but still firm. Stir in the cream and serve hot. Serves 4.

Auvergne, Limousin

AUVERGNE LENTIL SOUP

(Soupe auvergnate)

Auvergne is famous for its tiny greenish-black lentils from Le Puy, which are used to make this soup. If unavailable, small green lentils may be used instead.

¼	pound Le Puy lentils
5	cups water
½	pound potatoes, peeled and quartered
2	large onions, sliced
2	garlic cloves, chopped
1	bay leaf
	pinch of cloves
3	tbsp. butter
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
4	slices of rye bread, cut into croutons and dried in a 375° F. oven

Soak the lentils for 1 hour and drain. Place in a large pot with 5 cups of water. Add the potatoes, onions, garlic, bay leaf, and cloves and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 1½ hours or until the lentils are tender. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the pot and heat the soup thoroughly. Add a little more water if the soup is too thick. Stir in the butter and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Serve hot with croutons. Serves 4.

Provence, Comté de Nice

PROVENÇAL LENTIL SOUP

(Soupe de lentilles)

This warming winter soup makes a perfect meal in itself. Serve it with slices of whole wheat bread and a mixed salad on the side.

1	cup small green lentils
3	tbsp. olive oil
2	garlic cloves, finely chopped
1	medium onion, finely chopped
1	leek, thinly sliced
½	cup canned plum tomatoes, forced through a sieve or puréed in a food processor
5	cups water
½	pound new potatoes
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Soak the lentils for 1 hour and drain. Heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the garlic, onion and leek over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bay leaf and cook 5 minutes. Add the lentils and water and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 1½ hours or until the lentils are tender. Add the potatoes and cook for 20 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender, adding a little more water if the soup is too thick. Season with salt and black pepper to taste and serve hot. Serves 4.

Paris, Ile-de-France

MUSHROOM VELOUTÉ

(Potage velouté de champignons)

This classic mushroom soup from Paris is sometimes called Pierre-le-Grand.

1	pound small white mushrooms
2	tbsp. butter
2	tbsp. flour
4	cups hot stock or water
2	egg yolks
½	cup light cream
¼	tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Trim the stems of the mushrooms and slice thinly. Heat the butter in a large pot and cook the mushrooms over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Stir in the flour and cook for 1 minute. Gradually add the hot stock, stirring constantly until the soup is slightly thickened. Simmer for 30 minutes. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender, and return to the pot.

Beat the egg yolks and cream together in a bowl. Add a ladleful of hot soup into the egg and cream mixture, then stir it back into the soup. Season with nutmeg and salt and black pepper to taste. Heat gently to just below the simmering point. Do not boil or the soup will curdle. Serve hot. Serves 4.

Paris, Ile-de-France

MONTMARTRE ONION SOUP

(Soupe à l’oignon Montmartroise)

This is a delicious creamy onion soup flavored with white wine.

3	tbsp. olive oil
2	large onions, thinly sliced
2	tbsp. flour
½	cup dry white wine
5	cups hot stock or water
2	egg yolks
2	tbsp. light cream
	a grating of nutmeg
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
4	slices of whole wheat bread cut into croutons and dried in a 375° F. oven

Heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the onions over a moderate heat for 5 to 7 minutes or until they are softened and starting to turn golden. Stir in the flour and cook gently for 1 minute without browning. Gradually pour in the wine, stirring constantly, then pour in the hot stock. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. The soup will be slightly thickened.

Beat the egg yolks and cream together in a bowl. Add a ladleful of hot soup into the egg and cream mixture, then stir it back into the soup. Season with nutmeg and salt and black pepper to taste. Heat thoroughly, but do not boil or the soup will curdle. Serve hot with croutons. Serves 4.

Provence, Comté de Nice

LA SOUPO-PISTOU

(La soupo-pistou)

La soupo-pistou originated in Genoa. It is a mixed vegetable soup made with fresh or dried haricot beans, zucchini, green beans, potatoes, and tomatoes. Pistou—a garlic and basil sauce—is stirred in at the end of cooking. The pistou is never cooked.

½	cup dried white beans
6	cups water
½	pound green beans, cut into 1-inch lengths
2	medium potatoes, peeled and diced
2	zucchini, trimmed and sliced
3	peeled plum tomatoes, forced through a sieve or puréed in a food processor
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
½	cup vermicelli, broken into 1-inch lengths
½	cup pistou sauce (see page 104)
1	cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Soak the dry beans overnight and drain. Bring to a boil in 2 cups of water. Cover, and simmer for 1 to 1½ hours or until tender. Drain and discard the cooking liquid.

Place the green beans, potatoes, zucchini, and puréed tomatoes in a large pot with the cooked beans and 4 cups of water. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Raise the heat. When the soup is boiling add the vermicelli and cook for 15 minutes, or until it is tender but still firm. Remove from the heat and stir in the pistou sauce. Serve at once with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4 to 6.

Picardy, Flanders, Artois

PUMPKIN AND LEEK SOUP

(Soupe au potiron)

1	small pumpkin, about 2 pounds
4	tbsp. butter
1	large onion, chopped
2	leeks (white part only), thinly sliced
2	cups water
2	cups milk
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Slice the pumpkin. Cut off the skin and remove the seeds and fibers. Dice the flesh.

Heat half of the butter in a large pot. Add the onion and leeks and cook over a moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes. Add the water and milk and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 30 minutes or until the pumpkin is tender. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the pot and heat thoroughly. Stir in the remaining butter and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Serve hot. Serves 4.

Provence, Comté de Nice

PURSLANE SOUP

(Soupe de pourpier)

Purslane, called boutoulaigo in the Provençal language, grows wild in much of Provence.The leaves are slightly smaller than the cultivated variety, with a similar, slightly acidic taste. It is available in most Greek and Middle Eastern delicatessens.

½	pound purslane
2	tbsp. olive oil
2	garlic cloves, finely chopped
2	leeks, thinly sliced
1	potatoes, peeled and diced
6	cups water
2	egg yolks
3	tbsp. light cream
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
6	slices of whole wheat bread, cut into croutons and dried in a 375° F. oven

Trim the stalks of the purslane and cut into 2-inch lengths. Heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the garlic and leeks over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes, purslane, and water and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender.

Beat the egg yolks and cream together in a bowl and gradually add a ladleful of soup. Mix well together and pour back into the soup. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Heat thoroughly. Do not boil or the soup will curdle. Serve hot with croutons. Serves 6.

Languedoc, Roussillon

SPLIT PEA AND VEGETABLE SOUP

(La soupe Nîmoise)

1	cup split peas
5½	cups water
4	tbsp. olive oil
1	leek, thinly sliced
2	carrots, diced
2	white cabbage leaves, shredded
1	turnip
2	medium potatoes, peeled and diced
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
2	tbsp. fresh chives, finely chopped
4 to 6	slices of whole wheat bread, cut into croutons, and dried in a 375° F. oven

Soak the split peas for 2 hours and drain. Bring to a boil in 4 cups of water, and simmer for 1½ hours or until the peas are tender. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender.

Meanwhile heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the leek, carrots, turnip, and cabbage over a gentle heat for 15 minutes or until the vegetables are tender but not brown. Add the split peas purée, diced potatoes, and the remaining water and season to taste with salt and black pepper. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 20 minutes or until the potatoes are tender. Sprinkle with chives, and serve hot with croutons. Serves 4 to 6.

Bordeaux, Les Landes

TOMATO SOUP

(Tourin à la tomate)

Tourin or tourain is an onion soup made all over southwest France. Sometimes an egg is added, in which case it is called a tourin blanchi. Some recipes, like the one below, include tomatoes.

4	tbsp. olive oil
2	large onions, thinly sliced
3	garlic cloves, finely chopped
2	pounds ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped, or
2	16-ounce cans plum tomatoes and their juice
1	bay leaf
5	cups water
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
¼	cup vermicelli, broken into 1-inch lengths
2	tbsp. fresh chives, finely chopped
½	cup freshly grated Parmesan or Gruyère cheese

Heat the olive oil in a large pot and cook the onion and garlic over a moderate heat for 5 minutes or until the onions are translucent. Add the tomatoes and bay leaf and cook for 5 minutes. Pour in the water and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Bring to a boil, cover, and simmer for 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender and return to the pot. Increase the heat; when the soup is boiling drop in the vermicelli and cook until it is tender but still firm. Sprinkle with chives and serve at once, with grated cheese on the side. Serves 4 to 6.

Normandy

VEGETABLE SOUP WITH FLAGEOLET BEANS

(Soupe Normande)

The flageolet bean is a variety of haricot bean that stays green. Sometimes it is called chevrierafter the man who originated it.

2	tbsp. butter
1	leek, thinly sliced
1	celery rib, diced
2	medium potatoes, peeled and diced
½	small green cabbage, shredded
1½	cups fresh flageolet beans, if available, or
1½	cups well-drained canned flageolet beans
4	cups water
3	tbsp. light cream
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper
4	of whole wheat bread, cut into croutons and dried in a 375° F. oven

Heat the butter in a large saucepan and cook the leek, celery, and potatoes over a moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the cabbage, flageolet beans, and water and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 1 hour, or until the beans are very tender. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the pot and stir in the cream and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Serve hot with croutons. Serves 4.

Paris, Ile-de-France

WATERCRESS SOUP

(Potage cressonière)

This soup is sometimes called potage santé or “health soup.”

1	bunch watercress
1	leek
2	tbsp. butter
1	pound potatoes, peeled and quartered
6	cups water
3	tbsp. light cream
	salt
	freshly ground black pepper

Trim the stalks of the watercress and cut into 2-inch lengths. Trim away the root ends of the leek and cut in half lengthwise. Carefully wash away any dirt that collects between the leaves. Cut into 2-inch lengths; use the whole leek, including the green parts. Heat the butter in a large pot and cook the watercress and leek over a moderate heat for 5 minutes. Add the potatoes and water and bring to a boil. Cover, and simmer for 30 minutes. Force through a sieve or purée in a blender. Return to the saucepan and heat thoroughly. Stir in the cream and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Serve hot. Serves 6.