LES OEUFS
Eggs have been a symbol of fertility since ancient times. They were also thought to have magical powers. The Romans used to break the shells after eating eggs to prevent them being used to make spells. In France eggs were generally thought to bring good fortune. In the seventeenth century it was customary for a bride to break an egg when she entered her new home.
Eggs are prepared in hundreds of ways in France. They are boiled, poached, fried, baked en cocotte (in a small ovenproof dish), scrambled, or made into omelettes, soufflés, and flans. Egg dishes are usually eaten for lunch or supper, rarely for breakfast. Soufflés are often served before the main course as an entrée. Although entrée literally means ‘beginning’ it was originally the third course of a formal meal. First came the hors d’oeuvres or soup, followed by the second coursee—called le relevé (the removed), which in turn was followed by the entrée and then the main course. In most French restaurants today an entrée simply means a light main course. Other recipes for entrées such as quiches, croquettes, stuffed vegetables, and various cheese dishes can be found in other chapters of this book.
(Les oeufs brouillés)
Scrambled eggs are very quick and easy to prepare. The French pay great attention not to overcook the eggs. Sometimes they are prepared in a bain-marie, which helps to prevent from overcooking and becoming dry.
To cook scrambled eggs, beat the eggs lightly and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Melt a little butter in a heavy pan and pour in the eggs. Cook over a gentle heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon until the eggs have reached the desired creamy consistency. Remove from the heat and serve at once. Some cooks stir in a tablespoon or two of cream when the eggs start to thicken.
Savoie, Dauphiné
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH MUSHROOMS
(Brouillade aux mousserons)
½
pound small white mushrooms
2
tbsp. butter
1
tbsp. parsley, finely chopped
4
eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2
tbsp. light cream
Trim the ends of the mushrooms and slice them thinly. Heat the butter in a heavy pan and cook the parsley for 1 minute, then add the mushrooms. Cook over moderate heat for 5 minutes or until they are tender and the juices have evaporated. Beat the eggs lightly and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Pour the eggs over the mushrooms and cook over gentle heat, stirring constantly, until they start to thicken. Add the cream and continue to cook until the eggs have reached a creamy consistency. Do not overcook or the eggs will become dry. Serves 2.
Pays Basque, Béarn, Bigorre
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH PEPPERS, ONIONS, AND TOMATOES
(Pipérade)
In the Pays Basque pipérade is made with a special variety of red pepper called le piment d’Espelette, named after the town of Espelette where it is grown. Sometimes the peppers are called enragés (enraged) because of their strong, hot taste. Pipérade is also made en mourterade, like a flat omelette.
3
sweet red peppers
3
tbsp. olive oil
1
large onion, thinly sliced
2
garlic cloves, finely chopped
pinch of red chili peppers, crushed
¾
pound tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
8
eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Roast the peppers under a hot grill until the skins are blackened all over. Wash under cold water and remove the skins. Cut the peppers into strips.
Heat the olive oil in a heavy pan and cook the onion, garlic, and crushed chili peppers over moderate heat for 5 minutes or until the onion is translucent. Add the sweet peppers and tomatoes and cook over moderate heat for 15 to 20 minutes or until the peppers are tender and the liquid from the tomatoes has evaporated.
Beat the eggs lightly and season with salt to taste. Pour over the sweet-pepper mixture and cook over gentle heat, stirring constantly, until the eggs have reached a creamy consistency. Serve at once. Serves 4.
Languedoc, Roussillon
SCRAMBLED EGGS WITH ZUCCHINI
(Brouillade aux courgettes)
1
pound zucchini
2
tbsp. olive oil
2
shallots, finely chopped
4
eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2
tbsp. butter
Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut into thick rounds. Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the shallots over a moderate heat for 2 minutes. Add the zucchini and cook over fairly high heat until they are golden on both sides. Let cool slightly.
Beat the eggs lightly and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Stir in the zucchini mixture. Heat the butter in a heavy saucepan and pour in the egg mixture. Cook over gentle heat, stirring constantly until the eggs have reached a creamy consistency. Serve at once. Serves 2.
(Les omelettes)
“On ne fait pas des omelettes sans casser des oeufs.”
—an old French saying*
In France there are two kinds of omelettes: the rolled omelette and the flat omelette. Both are very versatile and easy to prepare. Almost any vegetable can be added to an omelette. Most of the French provinces have their own specialties: omelette savoyarde, omelette niçarde, or omelette lyonnaise.
Rolled Omelette
To make a rolled omelette you will need a heavy iron frying pan. It is a good idea to keep a pan especially for omelettes. Always use very fresh eggs, preferably free range. Beat the eggs lightly, just enough to mix the yolks with the whites. Heat the pan so that the butter foams as soon as it is put in. Tilt the pan so the whole surface is coated with butter and then pour in the eggs. Let the eggs cook for about 10 seconds to set the bottom, then tilt the pan away from you and gently push the eggs toward the center of the pan. Now tilt the pan towards you so the unset eggs cover the space you have made. Repeat a couple of times until the eggs are evenly cooked. With a fork, carefully roll the omelette up away from you and slide it onto a serving plate. Serve at once.
Flat Omelette
Flat omelettes are made in a similar way to rolled omelettes, but instead of rolling they are turned and cooked on the other side like a pancake. If you like you can place the omelette under a hot grill for 20 seconds to set the top before turning and cooking the other side.
Paris, Ile-De-France
CHEESE OMELETTE WITH CREAM
(Omelette au fromage à la crème)
This omelette is usually made with crème fraîche but I prefer to use sour cream instead.
4
eggs
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
¼
cup crème fraîche or sour cream
¼
cup (2 oz.) Gruyère cheese, grated
Beat the eggs lightly and season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper to taste. Heat the butter in a heavy frying pan and follow the directions for rolled omelette on page 137. Just before rolling, spoon the crème fraîche over the center of the omelette and sprinkle over the grated cheese. Roll the omelette up and place in a preheated 400° F. oven for 2 or 3 minutes and serve at once. Serves 2.
Savoie, Dauphinè
SORRELL OMELETTE
(Omelette à l’oseille)
Variations of this classic omelette are made all over France. The acidic taste of sorrel goes particularly well with eggs.
a handful of fresh sorrel, finely shredded
3
tbsp. butter
4
eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a heavy frying pan and cook the sorrel over moderate heat for 5 minutes or until it is reduced to a purée. Beat the egg lightly and add the sorrel purée. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Heat the remaining butter in the same frying pan and pour in the egg mixture. Follow the directions for rolled omelette on page 137. Serves 2.
Provence, Comtè de Nice
FRESH TOMATO OMELETTE
(Oumeleto ei poumo d’amour)
A specialty of Marseilles. The tomato is called the “apple of love” in the Provençal language because it once had the reputation of being an aphrodisiac.
4
medium tomatoes
4
eggs
2
tbsp. fresh basil, chopped
salt
freshly ground black pepper
2
tbsp. olive oil
Peel and slice the tomatoes. Beat the eggs lightly and add the tomatoes and basil. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and pour in the egg and tomato mixture. Follow the directions for rolled omelette on page 137. Serves 2.
Poitou, Charente
CÈPE OMELETTE
(Omelette aux cèpes)
In this omelette from Poitou, cèpes are sautéed in a mixture of butter and walnut oil before they are added to the eggs, which gives the omelette its distinctive flavor. If fresh cèpes are unavailable any other mushroom may be used instead.
½
pound cèpe or any other mushroom
2
tbsp. butter
1
tbsp. walnut oil
2
shallots, finely chopped
2
tbsp. fresh parsley, finely chopped
4
eggs
2
tbsp. light cream
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Wipe the cèpes clean with a damp cloth. Trim the stems and cut into thin slices. Heat 1 tablespoon butter and the walnut oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the shallots and parsley for 2 minutes. Add the cèpes and cook over a moderate heat for 8 to 10 minutes, or until they are tender. Beat the eggs and cream together and season with salt and black pepper to taste. Add the cèpe mixture and follow the directions for flat omelette on page 137. Serves 2.
Provence, Comté de Nice
EGGPLANT AND TOMATO OMELETTE
(Omelette à l’arlésienne)
If you like, two or three tablespoons of freshly grated Parmesan cheese may be added to the eggs before they are cooked.
1
medium eggplant (about ½ lb.)
¼
cup olive oil
½
pound ripe plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
4
eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Peel the eggplant and cut into ½-inch cubes. Heat 3 tablespoons of olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the eggplant over moderate heat until they are golden on both sides. Meanwhile heat the remaining olive oil in a separate frying pan and cook the tomatoes over moderate heat for 5 minutes or until they are softened. Beat the eggs lightly in a bowl and add the tomatoes. Season with salt and black pepper to taste. Pour over the eggplant and follow the directions for flat omelette on page 137. Serves 2.
Corsica
ZUCCHINI AND POTATO OMELETTE
(Omelette corse aux légumes)
2
medium zucchini
3
tbsp. olive oil
¼
pound new potatoes, peeled, boiled, and sliced
4
eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut into thin rounds. Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the zucchini and potatoes over a fairly high heat for 5 to 7 minutes or until the vegetables are golden on both sides. Beat the eggs lightly and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the vegetables and follow the directions for flat omelette on page 137. Serves 2.
Poitou, Charente
POTATO AND HERB OMELETTE
(Omelette aux herbes)
This omelette is sometimes called omelette du printemps or “springtime omelette.”
3
tbsp. butter
4
scallions, thinly sliced
a handful of sorrel, shredded
2
tbsp. fresh chives, chopped
2
tbsp. parsley, finely chopped
¼
pound new potatoes, boiled and sliced
4
eggs
2
tbsp. cream
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the butter in a heavy frying pan and cook the scallions, herbs, and sorrel over a moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the potatoes and cook for 5 minutes. Beat the eggs lightly with the cream and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the potato and herb mixture and follow the directions for flat omelette on page 137. Serves 2.
Pays Basque, Béarn, Bigorre
MUSTARD OMELETTE
(Omelette à la moutarde)
This unique omelette is a specialty of Vic–bilh in Béarn, where a delicious whole grain mustard made with white wine called moutarde de Lembeye is produced. Serve it with a green salad on the side.
2
eggs, separated
2
tsp. whole grain mustard with white wine
salt
freshly ground black pepper
1
tbsp. butter
Beat the egg yolks with the mustard and season lightly with salt and pepper. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold into the egg yolk mixture.
Heat the butter in a heavy frying pan and, when it starts foaming, pour in the egg mixture. Cook over moderate heat for 1 or 2 minutes or until the underside is lightly browned. Place under a hot grill for about 30 seconds or until the omelette is nicely puffed. Fold in two and serve at once. Serves 1.
Corsica
ONION AND MINT OMELETTE
(Omelette aux oignons à la menthe)
3
tbsp. olive oil
2
large onions, thinly sliced
a handful of fresh mint, finely chopped
4
eggs
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan and cook the onions and mint over moderate heat for 5 to 7 minutes, or until the onions start to turn golden. Beat the eggs lightly and season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the onion mixture and follow the directions for flat omelette on page 137. Serves 2.
Savoie, Dauphiné
POTATO AND CHEESE OMELETTE
(Omelette Savoyarde)
3
tbsp. butter
1
leek (white part only), thinly sliced
½
pound potatoes, peeled and diced
4
eggs
½
cup Beaufort or Gruyère cheese, diced
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Heat the butter in a heavy frying pan and cook the leek over moderate heat for 3 minutes. Add the diced potatoes and continue to cook for 8 to 10 minutes or until they are tender. Beat the eggs lightly and stir in the cheese. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the potato mixture and follow the directions for flat omelette on page 137. Serves 2.
(Les soufflés)
Soufflés were invented about two hundred years ago with the advent of draft-free stoves. Before 1795 most cooking was done over hot coals or in a primitive brick oven with no adjustable heat.
“Soufflé” literally means “puffed up,” which aptly describes it. Soufflés are usually made with an ingredient such as cheese or puréed vegetables, combined with a sauce and egg yolks, and the addition of stiffly beaten whites. However some soufflés omit the sauce. This produces a very light, less creamy soufflé.
Soufflés can be made in one large ovenproof mould or dish, or in individual dishes or cassolettes. Serve soufflés immediatelye—they begin to deflate as soon as you take them out of the oven.
Auvergne, Limousin
CANTAL CHEESE SOUFFLÉ
(Soufflé au Cantal)
Cantal cheese is a semi-hard cheese made from cow’s milk. It has a pale creamy color and a greyish crust flecked with gold. Cantal vieux (aged over 6 months) is best for cooking. If unavailable, Gruyère or cheddar cheese may be used instead.
3
tbsp. butter
4
tbsp. butter
9
oz hot milk
¼
tsp. nutmeg, freshly grated
salt
freshly ground black pepper
¾
cup Cantal cheese, grated
4
egg yolks
5
egg white
Follow the directions on page 99 and prepare a thick béchamel sauce with the butter, flour, and hot milk. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese. Let cool slightly, then add the egg yolks one at a time, mixing well after each addition. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold a quarter of the egg whites into the sauce. Blend well and lightly fold in the remaining egg whites.
Pour in a well buttered 2½-pint soufflé dish, place in the center of a preheated 400° F. oven, and reduce the heat immediately to 375° F. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes or until the soufflé is well risen and the center is done. Serve at once. Serves 4.
Bordeaux, Les Landes
PUMPKIN SOUFFLÉ
(Soufflé au potiron)
This soufflé from Les Landes is called bouhe de cuye in the local patois.
1¼
pounds pumpkin
3
tbsp. butter
3
tbsp. flour
½
cup hot milk or broth
¼
tsp. nutmeg, freshly grated
salt
freshly ground black pepper
½
cup Gruyère cheese, grated
3
egg yolks
4
egg whites
Peel the pumpkin and scrape away the seeds and fibers. Cut into chunks and steam for 12 to 15 minutes or until tender. Force through a sieve or purée in a food processor.
Follow the directions on page 99 and prepare a thick béchamel sauce with the butter, flour, and hot milk. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese. Let cool slightly. Add the egg yolks one at a time and then add the pumpkin purée. Blend well. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold in a quarter of the egg whites into the sauce. Blend well and lightly fold in the remaining egg whites. Pour into a well-buttered 2-pint soufflé dish. Place in the center of a preheated 400° F. oven and reduce the heat immediately to 375° F. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the soufflé is well risen and the center is done. Serve at once. Serves 2 to 4.
Paris, Ile-de-France
GREEN BEAN SOUFFLÉ
(Souffleé aux haricots verts)
In this recipe the green beans are not combined with the soufflé mixture. Instead the soufflé is baked on top of the green beans. Asparagus tips or peas are often prepared the same way.
1
pound green beans
2
tbsp. butter
3
tbsp. flour
¾
cup hot milk
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
½
cup Gruyère cheese, grated
3
eggs, separated
Trim the ends of the green beans and steam for 10 minutes or until they are tender. Place in the bottom of a well buttered 2-pint soufflé dish.
Follow the directions on page 99 and prepare a thick béchamel sauce with the butter, flour, and hot milk. Season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper to taste. Remove from the heat and stir in the cheese, Let cool slightly. Add the egg yolks one at a time and mix well after each addition. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold in a quarter of the egg whites into the sauce. Blend well and lightly fold in the remaining egg whites. Pour over the green beans, place in a preheated 400° F. oven, and reduce the heat immediately to 375° F. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the soufflé is well risen and the center is done. Serve at once. Serves 3 to 4.
Languedoc, Roussillon
ZUCCHINI SOUFFLÉ
(Souffleé aux courgettes)
This soufflé is made without a béchamel sauce, which gives it a very light texture.
1½
pounds zucchini
3
tbsp. olive oil
¾
Gruyère cheese, freshly grated
3
eggs, separated
salt
freshly ground black pepper
Trim the ends of the zucchini and cut them into thin rounds. Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan and cook the zucchini over high heat until they are just starting to turn golden. Drain away any excess oil. Force through a sieve or purée in a food processor. Add the cheese and egg yolks and mix well. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold a quarter of the egg whites into the zucchini mixture. Blend well and lightly fold in the remaining egg whites. Pour in a well buttered soufflé dish, place in the center of a preheated 400° F. oven, and immediately reduce the heat to 375° F. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the soufflé is well risen and the center is done. Serve at once. Serves 3 to 4.
Poitou, Charente
SPINACH SOUFFLÉ
(Soufflé aux épinards)
This soufflé is also made without a béchamel sauce.
½
pound spinach
1
tbsp. butter
⅓
cup Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
a grating of nutmeg
salt
freshly ground black pepper
3
eggs, separated
Wash the spinach and cook in a covered saucepan over moderate heat for 5 minutes. The water clinging to the leaves is sufficient to prevent scorching. Stir in the butter and season with nutmeg, salt, and pepper to taste. Simmer for 1 minute. Drain and chop finely. Stir in the Parmesan cheese. Add the egg yolks one at a time and mix well after each addition. Beat the egg whites stiff and fold a quarter of the egg whites into the spinach mixture. Blend well and lightly fold in the remaining egg whites.
Pour into a well-buttered 2-pint soufflé dish. Place in the center of a preheated 400° F. oven and immediately reduce the heat to 375° F. Bake for 20 to 25 minutes or until the soufflé is well risen and the center is done. Serve at once. Serves 2 to 3.
*You cannot make an omelette without breaking eggs.